Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Up the green chimney then step left across into corner/crack system to DBB

FA: Trent Wright, Nov 2011

The crack left of the chimney of TT, step left around arete to anchors when it peters out.

FA: Adam Bramwell & Mike Ramplin, 1998

Mixed gear, continue right from the top of fern crack

FA: John Wilde, 2011

Stick clip first bolt, then boulder to ledge. Slab and arete climbing to anchors at half height of wall, best to continue to top lower off.

FA: John Wilde, 2011

The left route, up to ledge, long draw on bolt to right then follow bolts until traverse right to shared lower off.

FA: Daniel Wilde, 2011

From the shared anchors of Johnny 1 or Johnny 2 continue up and step left at roof past 4 more bolts to fixed carabiners at DBB

2m left of the arete, same start as for Wilcox, but continue going left, up to separate lower off.

FA: John Wilde, Jan 2012

Start in the small alcove, up through small rooflet, then follow crack to anchors. Climb on fixed hangers.

FA: John Wilde, 2012

Start as for Ned Kelly, but go left and up the crack/offwidth.

FA: J Wilde & M Foster, Sep 2012

The side of slabby pinnacle just left of main boiler wall, 6 hox bolts and 1 RB. Common anchors for all 4 routes on top of block.

FA: J Wilde, 2012

Start from toe of arete and up. Hex bolts.

FA: J Wilde

Start from platform and step right and up staying left of arete until final moves. Hex Bolts.

FA: John Wilde, 2012

In the gully between slab and wall on the left, up hex bolts staying right of the gully, to anchor on top. P2: Continue all the way to the top of the wall on gear. Hex bolts on P1.

FA: John Wilde, 2012

Route starts on platform left of Slab 1. 1st Bolt its on right side of arete, then follow the crack around to the left. Face climbing to the top. DBB.

FA: John Wilde, 2013

Set by JRW, 2013

The left route on the wall. A tough start leads to some wandering climbing.

FA: John Wilde, 2013

On the pinnacle immediately below the track , below left arete of boiler wall. Left route.

FA: John & Trent?

On the pinnacle imediately below track, below left arete of boiler wall. Right route. Goes to shared anchors


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