Double Ewe buttress

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.


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Grade Route

The route on the left wall of the left alcove. Come in from left of first bolt- original starting hold disappeared. Finish at pocket above anchors.

FA: V Wills, 30 Sep 2011

Up the strenuous overhanging layback on bolts. Shares anchors with Baramu

FA: V Wills, Oct 2011

On the right wall of the second alcove, just to the left of the green moss. Technical pocket pullling to bouldery finish

FA: V Wills, 10 Mar 2012

On left edge of right ward alcove. Up short vertical wall to juggy slab. Awaiting a proper clean

FA: Mick Johnson, 14 Jan 2012

Two bolt variant start up crimpy wall into seam of Miraculous Keys.

FA: VW, 24 Dec 2011

Start as for Billy the Kid for first bolt- up ramp then step left into seam. Continue up seam to spicy finish

FA: V Wills, 14 Jan 2012

Up ramp in back of alcove to step into seam. Above second bolt traverse right to hanging well hammered block then sustained face moves up to blunt arete at anchors

FA: V Wills, 14 Jan 2012

A little chossy but bolts keep you safe! Up the back of the right alcove to anchors on the left wall. Bridging and the odd jam. The 2nd bolt is placed in an odd position due to suspect rock, but if you reach down and unclip the first bolt the rope runs well.

FA: V Wills, 5 Feb 2012

The left route on the short wall as you come down the access gully. Through roof trending right to shared anchors

FA: V Wills, Jun 2012

The right route on the short wall close to fig tree, up crack and then up wall, run out to anchors. If you scare easily suggest you do the other route first and leave a really long draw on the anchors.

FA: V Willls, Jun 2012

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