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The second pinnacle, large balanced rock on top. Approach by walking to top of next pinnacle (warty tree) and around both rather than down gully between them.

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.


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Grade Route

Start up chimney to right of Venting, walk across top of block leftwards then out clipping 3 bolts on ELL and STD to sling tree and anchors of Dans 24.

FA: David Gray, S Mantle & V Wills, Jan 2013

On the right of the trench on south side of pinnacle, closest to track

FA: Dave Gray & V Wills, 16 Dec 2012

Start right of ELL in large chasm. Chimney up left side (long sling on chockstone) then continue to ledge and up overhang crack. Stretch left to clip anchors on ELL.

FA: David Gray & V Wills, Jan 2013

On the left of trench, shared start then veer right on smal holds to shared anchors at top

FA: V Wills, Jan 2013

Shared start up flake feature steeping left into seam, over bulge to shared finish

FA: V Wills Dave Gray, 16 Dec 2012

Powerful moves up undercut start to ledge at half height, then easier climbing to anchors above second ledge

FA: Daniel Wilde

Start 1m right of the prominent bolted groove.Up white seam and through roof passing 5 bolts to ledge, and continue up juggy common upper wall to anchors

FA: VW, Sep 2013

Up open corner past hard moves at 4th bolt. Ignore anchors to left, step right and continue up the finish of Dans face climb

FA: J Wilde

After surmounting groove (crux) instead of stepping right continue up arete and head onto left following homemade fixed hangers and slighly friable rock.

After first 5 bolts of the crack step left to DBB. CLimb up orange overhung wall.

FA: John Wilde

Follow trad groove/crack system past first set of anchors at 12m, up left hand crack to anchors on top. 28m to ground.

FA: J Wilde, Dec 2012

From near lowest part of pinnacle amble up diagonal the reach left and onto wall. Pumpy moves past 2 bolts then up, moving slightly right into corner then slab and anchors to left

FA: John Wilde

The extension to this has been bolted and is still a project

Continue up route on carrots (4) then 2 old RBs then 6 new ones, past first set of anchors to anchors ontop of pinnacle. A 70m rope will just get you down.

FA: J Wilde & M Moore, Dec 2012

Start in middle of grass tree stand. Up groove and onto R face before heading left back to arete. Shared anchor on ledge.

FA: John Wilde

Start to the left of the grass tree cluster. Joins the route to the right around arete at about 5 th bolt, unless you have some trad gear with you. Spaced bolting.

FA: John Wilde

Start 1m right of BB and head up prow. 2-3 small cams (under finger size) needed for middle section to ledge to avoid retrobolting. Then pass 2 more bolts to right of flake to anchors

FA: V Wills & D Gray, Sep 2013

Starts up thin crack on north side of pinnacle. Belay on ledge and rap off to climbers left. Not a good lead for beginners due to average gear.

Start 1m left of BB at white face, trending left past first 4 bolts then up to anchors.

FA: V Wills & D Gray, Sep 2013

Thin wall 5m right of Bulahdelah Flyways

FA: David Gray & Anthony Cook, 2013

Up the gully from BB. Climbs the old abseil line, descent from tree. Thin start and a bitrun out to anchors.

FA: Dave Gray, Apr 2013


Check out what is happening in Belly button pinnacle.