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Fourth pinnacle. Quite wide, the brushed streak of the first two climbs is visible from the track. Go down hill as for Bellybutton and warty tree pinnacles and contour across and around downhill side of pinnacle for other routes

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
14 Trent The Trench Cleaner Mixed 15m, 1

The diagonal left wards crack finishing on anchors of ROR

FA: John Wilde & Mick Johnson, 2012

20 The Market Gardener Mixed 12m, 2

Up crack then onto flake, passing two old 1/2 inch bolts with homemade hangers.

FA: John Wilde & Jeremy, 1998

17 * Veggie Patch Sport 20m

Up brushed slab, second route uphill of the crack. Shares same anchors

FA: John Wilde, 2012

17 ** A Walk In The Park Sport 24m, 7

Nicely angled slab climbing, a little run out but safe.

FA: John Wilde

16 Not Lichen it Trad 40m, 2

The trad crack left of the bolted slab. Rusty chain anchor on ledge after Pitch 1 or continue to top and rap off tree near the route to the right

21 ** Magical Mystery Tour Sport 20m, 8

Just around arete from Not Lichen It, on carpark side of town facing (downhill) wall. Up through small cave and through the steepening wall to tough move to pull onto slab.

FA: Chris Bentham, 2009

23 The Double Agent Trad 25m

Up the initial flake on gear, then 3 fixed hangers to chain in small gully.

Set by Gavin Jensen

FA: John Wilde

Project Tim SportProject 30m

Only 2 bolts in lower crux, top cleaned.

25 ** Interpol Sport 20m, 7

Along the low flake past 2 hangers then up through bulges. It finises at last bolt, or continue up vegetation to shared anchors on top and rappel off.

FA: Dan Wilde

24 ** The Asian Informant Sport 20m, 11

Start on the arete, up on thin holds to stance before groove. Up some thin moves in groove to pumpy top.

FA: Daniel Wilde

22 ** Frankie the Snitch Sport 22m, 10

Start just right of corner, up steep wall, the move out onto arete after 4th bolt. Lower off ontop of pinicale.

FA: John Wilde

16 Feral Jack Trad 25m
24 ** The African's Route Sport 19m

Start left of tree, perhaps stickclip second bolt to avoid decking when clipping. Can use a smallish cam or medium wire can add protection at the break

FA: Gavin Jensen


Starts to the left of the tree near chimney- second climb along. Up diagonal crack to dog leg, a cam handy here before second bolt. Zig zag up wall coming very close to African route in middle before heading left again. Finish on anchors of African route

FA: John Wilde, 2010

25 * Black Jack Sport

Set by Mick Mayer

FA: Jason Piper, 2012


FA: Mick Mayer


Check out what is happening in Lichen pinnacle.