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Description

Fourth pinnacle. Quite wide, the brushed streak of the first two climbs is visible from the track. Go down hill as for Bellybutton and warty tree pinnacles and contour across and around downhill side of pinnacle for other routes

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Routes

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Grade Route

The diagonal left wards crack finishing on anchors of ROR

FA: John Wilde & Mick Johnson, 2012

Up crack then onto flake, passing two old 1/2 inch bolts with homemade hangers.

FA: John Wilde & Jeremy, 1998

Up brushed slab, second route uphill of the crack. Shares same anchors

FA: John Wilde, 2012

Nicely angled slab climbing, a little run out but safe.

FA: John Wilde

The trad crack left of the bolted slab. Rusty chain anchor on ledge after Pitch 1 or continue to top and rap off tree near the route to the right

Just around arete from Not Lichen It, on carpark side of town facing (downhill) wall. Up through small cave and through the steepening wall to tough move to pull onto slab.

FA: Chris Bentham, 2009

Up the initial flake on gear, then 3 fixed hangers to chain in small gully.

Set by Gavin Jensen

FA: John Wilde

Only 2 bolts in lower crux, top cleaned.

Along the low flake past 2 hangers then up through bulges. It finises at last bolt, or continue up vegetation to shared anchors on top and rappel off.

FA: Dan Wilde

Start on the arete, up on thin holds to stance before groove. Up some thin moves in groove to pumpy top.

FA: Daniel Wilde

Start just right of corner, up steep wall, the move out onto arete after 4th bolt. Lower off ontop of pinicale.

FA: John Wilde

Start left of tree, perhaps stickclip second bolt to avoid decking when clipping. Can use a smallish cam or medium wire can add protection at the break

FA: Gavin Jensen

Starts to the left of the tree near chimney- second climb along. Up diagonal crack to dog leg, a cam handy here before second bolt. Zig zag up wall coming very close to African route in middle before heading left again. Finish on anchors of African route

FA: John Wilde, 2010

Set by Mick Mayer

FA: Jason Piper, 2012

FA: Mick Mayer

Activity

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