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Description

Fourth pinnacle. Quite wide, the brushed streak of the first two climbs is visible from the track. Go down hill as for Bellybutton and warty tree pinnacles and contour across and around downhill side of pinnacle for other routes

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 Trent The Trench Cleaner Mixed 15m, 1

The diagonal left wards crack finishing on anchors of ROR

FA: John Wilde, Mick Johnson, 2012

2
20 The Market Gardener Mixed 12m, 2

Up crack then onto flake, passing two old 1/2 inch bolts with homemade hangers.

FA: John Wilde, Jeremy, 1998

3
17 Veggie Patch Sport 20m

Up brushed slab, second route uphill of the crack. Shares same anchors

FA: John Wilde, 2012

4
17 * A Walk In The Park Sport 24m, 7

Nicely angled slab climbing, a little run out but safe.

FA: John Wilde

5
16 Not Lichen it Trad 40m

The trad crack left of the bolted slab. Rusty chain anchor on ledge after Pitch 1 or continue to top and rap off tree near the route to the right

6
21 ** Magical Mystery Tour Sport 20m, 8

Just around arete from Not Lichen It, on carpark side of town facing (downhill) wall. Up through small cave and through the steepening wall to tough move to pull onto slab.

FA: Chris Bentham, 2009

7
23 The Double Agent Trad 25m

Up the initial flake on gear, then 3 fixed hangers to chain in small gully.

Set by Gavin Jensen

FA: John Wilde

8
Project Tim Sport Project 30m

Only 2 bolts in lower crux, top cleaned.

9
25 ** Interpol Sport 20m, 7

Along the low flake past 2 hangers then up through bulges. It finises at last bolt, or continue up vegetation to shared anchors on top and rappel off.

FA: Dan Wilde

10
24 * The Asian Informant Sport 20m, 11

Start on the arete, up on thin holds to stance before groove. Up some thin moves in groove to pumpy top.

FA: Daniel Wilde

11
22 * Frankie the Snitch Sport 22m, 10

Start just right of corner, up steep wall, the move out onto arete after 4th bolt. Lower off ontop of pinicale.

FA: John Wilde

12
16 Feral Jack Trad 25m
13
24 ** The African's Route Sport 19m

Start left of tree, perhaps stickclip second bolt to avoid decking when clipping. Can use a smallish cam or medium wire can add protection at the break

FA: Gavin Jensen

14

Starts to the left of the tree near chimney- second climb along. Up diagonal crack to dog leg, a cam handy here before second bolt. Zig zag up wall coming very close to African route in middle before heading left again. Finish on anchors of African route

FA: John Wilde, 2010

15
25 Black Jack Sport

Set by Mick Mayer

FA: Jason Piper, 2012

16

FA: Mick Mayer