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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport and Trad
Long/Lat: 152.222073, -32.410495
Fourth pinnacle. Quite wide, the brushed streak of the first two climbs is visible from the track. Go down hill as for Bellybutton and warty tree pinnacles and contour across and around downhill side of pinnacle for other routes
- Access Issues: inherited from Bulahdelah
Major access issues in all areas at present. Avoiding the area is best strategy at present(dec 2015) or risk inflaming the situation. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Avoid private landholdings and do not trespass.
- Ethic: inherited from Bulahdelah
If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.
Trent The Trench Cleaner
The diagonal left wards crack finishing on anchors of ROR
FA: John Wilde, Mick Johnson, 2012
The Market Gardener
Up crack then onto flake, passing two old 1/2 inch bolts with homemade hangers.
FA: John Wilde, Jeremy, 1998
Up brushed slab, second route uphill of the crack. Shares same anchors
FA: John Wilde, 2012
A Walk In The Park
Nicely angled slab climbing, a little run out but safe.
FA: John Wilde
Not Lichen it
The trad crack left of the bolted slab. Rusty chain anchor on ledge after Pitch 1 or continue to top and rap off tree near the route to the right
Magical Mystery Tour
Just around arete from Not Lichen It, on carpark side of town facing (downhill) wall. Up through small cave and through the steepening wall to tough move to pull onto slab.
FA: Chris Bentham, 2009
The Double Agent
Up the initial flake on gear, then 3 fixed hangers to chain in small gully.
Set by Gavin Jensen
FA: John Wilde
Only 2 bolts in lower crux, top cleaned.
Along the low flake past 2 hangers then up through bulges. It finises at last bolt, or continue up vegetation to shared anchors on top and rappel off.
FA: Dan Wilde
The Asian Informant
Start on the arete, up on thin holds to stance before groove. Up some thin moves in groove to pumpy top.
FA: Daniel Wilde
Frankie the Snitch
Start just right of corner, up steep wall, the move out onto arete after 4th bolt. Lower off ontop of pinicale.
FA: John Wilde
The African's Route
Start left of tree, perhaps stickclip second bolt to avoid decking when clipping. Can use a smallish cam or medium wire can add protection at the break
FA: Gavin Jensen
The French Connection
Starts to the left of the tree near chimney- second climb along. Up diagonal crack to dog leg, a cam handy here before second bolt. Zig zag up wall coming very close to African route in middle before heading left again. Finish on anchors of African route
FA: John Wilde, 2010
Set by Mick Mayer
FA: Jason Piper, 2012
Early Morning Heart Start
FA: Mick Mayer
|14||Trent The Trench Cleaner||115m,|
|Not Lichen it||240m|
|17||A Walk In The Park||724m,|
|20||The Market Gardener||212m,|
|21||Early Morning Heart Start||17m|
|Magical Mystery Tour||820m,|
|22||Frankie the Snitch||1022m,|
|23||The Double Agent||25m|
|The French Connection||16m|
|24||The African's Route||19m|
|The Asian Informant||1120m,|