A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Lichen pinnacle 16 routes in Area

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.222073, -32.410495


Fourth pinnacle. Quite wide, the brushed streak of the first two climbs is visible from the track. Go down hill as for Bellybutton and warty tree pinnacles and contour across and around downhill side of pinnacle for other routes

Access Issues: inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Avoiding the area is best strategy at present(dec 2015) or risk inflaming the situation. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Avoid private landholdings and do not trespass.

Ethic: inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trent The Trench Cleaner

The diagonal left wards crack finishing on anchors of ROR

FA: John Wilde, Mick Johnson, 2012

14 Mixed 15m, 1
2 The Market Gardener

Up crack then onto flake, passing two old 1/2 inch bolts with homemade hangers.

FA: John Wilde, Jeremy, 1998

20 Mixed 12m, 2
3 Veggie Patch

Up brushed slab, second route uphill of the crack. Shares same anchors

FA: John Wilde, 2012

17 Sport 20m
4 * A Walk In The Park

Nicely angled slab climbing, a little run out but safe.

FA: John Wilde

17 Sport 24m, 7
5 Not Lichen it

The trad crack left of the bolted slab. Rusty chain anchor on ledge after Pitch 1 or continue to top and rap off tree near the route to the right

16 Trad 40m 2
6 ** Magical Mystery Tour

Just around arete from Not Lichen It, on carpark side of town facing (downhill) wall. Up through small cave and through the steepening wall to tough move to pull onto slab.

FA: Chris Bentham, 2009

21 Sport 20m, 8
7 The Double Agent

Up the initial flake on gear, then 3 fixed hangers to chain in small gully.

Set by Gavin Jensen

FA: John Wilde

23 Trad 25m
8 Project Tim

Only 2 bolts in lower crux, top cleaned.

Sport Project 30m
9 ** Interpol

Along the low flake past 2 hangers then up through bulges. It finises at last bolt, or continue up vegetation to shared anchors on top and rappel off.

FA: Dan Wilde

25 Sport 20m, 7
10 * The Asian Informant

Start on the arete, up on thin holds to stance before groove. Up some thin moves in groove to pumpy top.

FA: Daniel Wilde

24 Sport 20m, 11
11 * Frankie the Snitch

Start just right of corner, up steep wall, the move out onto arete after 4th bolt. Lower off ontop of pinicale.

FA: John Wilde

22 Sport 22m, 10
12 Feral Jack 16 Trad 25m
13 ** The African's Route

Start left of tree, perhaps stickclip second bolt to avoid decking when clipping. Can use a smallish cam or medium wire can add protection at the break

FA: Gavin Jensen

24 Sport 19m
14 The French Connection

Starts to the left of the tree near chimney- second climb along. Up diagonal crack to dog leg, a cam handy here before second bolt. Zig zag up wall coming very close to African route in middle before heading left again. Finish on anchors of African route

FA: John Wilde, 2010

23 Sport 16m
15 Black Jack

Set by Mick Mayer

FA: Jason Piper, 2012

25 Sport
16 Early Morning Heart Start

FA: Mick Mayer

21 Trad 17m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 Trent The Trench Cleaner Mixed 15m, 1
16 Feral Jack Trad 25m
Not Lichen it Trad 40m 2
17 * A Walk In The Park Sport 24m, 7
Veggie Patch Sport 20m
20 The Market Gardener Mixed 12m, 2
21 Early Morning Heart Start Trad 17m
** Magical Mystery Tour Sport 20m, 8
22 * Frankie the Snitch Sport 22m, 10
23 The Double Agent Trad 25m
The French Connection Sport 16m
24 ** The African's Route Sport 19m
* The Asian Informant Sport 20m, 11
25 Black Jack Sport
** Interpol Sport 20m, 7
? Project Tim Sport Project 30m