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To get here go straight up the hill on the right side of the quarry from the mountain car park, cross the saddle in the ridge and veer left and up to the wall. Wildey on Wheels is to the climbers left of the baby pinnacle, Man Mountain and NATATDT are in a gully behind the pinnacle, and the other routes on a wall to the right. Climbs are described left to right.

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.


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Grade Route

Short and crimpy little climb at the left end of wall.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2011

Starts 10m left of baby pinnacle on main wall. Through bulges passing 2 RBs to ledge then up following bolts to slightly tricky finish and DBB..

FA: V Wills, 2011

Bouldery start then up front of pinnacle to anchors

FA: J Wilde, 2010

at base of gully, on small pinnacle. Common anchors on top of pinnacle

FA: V Wills, 28 Aug 2011

On small pinnacle closest to MM, need to rap off.

FA: V Wills, 28 Aug 2011

The steep white overhung rock behind the baby pinnacle

FA: Aaron Sphinx

Start 2m left of MM, up the crack on gear.

The overhanging blunt arete in the gully opposite the pinnacle. Easier if you are tall.

FFA: V Wills, 5 Jun 2011

The left hand end of the big slab. Fixed hangers.

FA: Aaron Sphinx

Climb 4m right of arete, up fixed hangers.

3rd route on the buttress. Care clipping second bolt if short. Has own anchors.

FA: Aaron Spinks, 2006

Up past 3 rings to rejoin TDWP at it'3rd last hanger.

FA: Nick kaz., 2006


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