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Description

20 metres to the right of bumble buttress on a separate wall

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start just left of the burnt out tree stump, tough move to start, then up and left onto arete to lower off.

FA: Adian Smith, 2011

After the 6th bolt on Trickey Dickey step right past one bolt to anchors of route to the right

Start below burnt out stump, up the thin steep wall past 5 fixed hangers.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2011

Up the middle of the wall, thin at start.

Thin climbing to finish right of the large stag horn. Some interesting small and slopey holds.

FA: Jason Piper, 2012

Start next to the small fig 4m left of the "look mum no cams" start. Up past two fixed hangers to join LMNC to top.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2011

climb obvious bolted crack. Careful at 3rd bolt.

FA: Nick kaz., 2006

Clip first bolt of LMNC, then head straight up following fixed hangers to lower offs.

FA: Brad Williams, 2011

Activity

Check out what is happening in No cams area.