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Walk up through the cave and rap/descend from anchors down to the ledge (easy grade 8 climb out)

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.



Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
21 * Chicken dance Sport 20m

Starting from the double bolts at the right hand end of cave, go straight up staying left of face till the wall gets to steep then traverse onto the face out right and up to lower offs.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2004

20 ** Got that Phelan feeling Sport 25m, 8

The standard warm up if the weather is good. Start from the pedestal ledge on he the top right of the cave. Traverse out to gain good hold then continue straight up, past horizontal break to top.

FA: Tim Phelan


Start off pedestal above terrace but traverse out onto just kick it

22 ** Just kick it Sport 25m

first route to start at lower level, closest to cave.

FA: John Wilde

23 ** Hoppy Sport 25m

Intricate and thin start. The roof is a little chossy.

FA: John Wilde

17 Carrots Sport 10m, 4

Line of hex bolts. First one up on this little wall. Stops at ledge.

FA: Wyane's, 1998

24 ** upper tier left hand roof Sport 20m, 10

Do the route on carrots to ledge then rising traverse left from anchor to clip fixed hanger, bouldery roof moves past another fixed hanger, then ringbolt and then run it out to anchors.


clip the anchors of route on carrots and keep going up the steep wall on RBs

22 ** Flat White Sport 10m, 4

The thin line second one from the end. Thin crimpy moves up on the fixed hangers to lower off shared with carrots. Take care clipping third bolt, best with a long sling to prevent groundfall.

FA: Justin Jefferson, 2006

22 * The Manic Barrista Sport 10m

The right hand route on terrace, adjacent to large flake. Has ring bolts above on ledge, requiring abseiling to clean.

FA: Justin Jefferson

23 * New route LH finish ? Project SportProject 20m

Start in corner at end of terrace, though climb clean face. Through several ledges to half way ledge, then up at bolt in roof, traversing left to bolt and up orange rock to anchors. Still John boys project so stay off.

18 New route RHFinish Sport 20m

Start in corner and up to half way ledge. At bolt in roof large holds lead up towards arête. Continue up arête then ever left to shared anchors

FA: Jason Piper

12 * Lumbing Trad 20m

Starts just above track at ground level and heads up corner to finish at the right hand end of the ledge of Cave right.

FA: V Wills & D Gray, 2013

8 Hexham Sport 20m, 6

On the way to the Terrace. 6 hex bolts from the ground 10m to the right of Lumbing. Double U bolt anchors just below the Terrace extension.

Set by John Hollott

FA: John Hollott, 2016


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