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Description

Walk up through the cave and rap/descend from anchors down to the ledge (easy grade 8 climb out)

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Avoiding the area is best strategy at present(dec 2015) or risk inflaming the situation. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Avoid private landholdings and do not trespass.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 * Chicken dance Sport 20m

Starting from the double bolts at the right hand end of cave, go straight up staying left of face till the wall gets to steep then traverse onto the face out right and up to lower offs.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2004

2
20 ** Got that Phelan feeling Sport 25m, 8

The standard warm up if the weather is good. Start from the pedestal ledge on he the top right of the cave. Traverse out to gain good hold then continue straight up, past horizontal break to top.

FA: Tim Phelan

3

Start off pedestal above terrace but traverse out onto just kick it

4
22 ** Just kick it Sport 25m

first route to start at lower level, closest to cave.

FA: John Wilde

5
23 ** Hoppy Sport 25m

Intricate and thin start. The roof is a little chossy.

FA: John Wilde

7
17 Carrots Sport 10m, 4

Line of hex bolts. First one up on this little wall. Stops at ledge.

FA: Wyane's, 1998

8
24 ** upper tier left hand roof Sport 20m, 10

Do the route on carrots to ledge then rising traverse left from anchor to clip fixed hanger, bouldery roof moves past another fixed hanger, then ringbolt and then run it out to anchors.

9

clip the anchors of route on carrots and keep going up the steep wall on RBs

10
22 ** Flat White Sport 10m, 4

The thin line second one from the end. Thin crimpy moves up on the fixed hangers to lower off shared with carrots. Take care clipping third bolt, best with a long sling to prevent groundfall.

FA: Justin Jefferson, 2006

11
22 * The Manic Barrista Sport 10m

The right hand route on terrace, adjacent to large flake. Has ring bolts above on ledge, requiring abseiling to clean.

FA: Justin Jefferson

12
23 * New route LH finish ? Project SportProject 20m

Start in corner at end of terrace, though climb clean face. Through several ledges to half way ledge, then up at bolt in roof, traversing left to bolt and up orange rock to anchors. Still John boys project so stay off.

13
18 New route RHFinish Sport 20m

Start in corner and up to half way ledge. At bolt in roof large holds lead up towards arête. Continue up arête then ever left to shared anchors

FA: Jason Piper

14
12 * Lumbing Trad 20m

Starts just above track at ground level and heads up corner to finish at the right hand end of the ledge of Cave right.

FA: V Wills & D Gray, 2013

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