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Description

Head up through the Overhang past the Golden Wall to saddle. Climbs listed L to R from saddle around to vertical orange wall under the highest part of the mountain.

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 ** Renaissance Trad 20m

Start down from the saddle on the western side at undercut handcrack. Up the crack

FA: David Gray & V Wills, 2013

2
8 Lord Jim Trad 15m

AT the saddle there is a chimney, up chimney crawling under chockstone at top.

FA: David Gray, Lewis Carey & Michael Almond, 1980

3
18 * Used Car Delah Trad 15m

Left leaning crack and gully system. Go left up corner to top out

FA: David Gray & V Wills, 2013

4
13 She-oak Crack Trad 15m

Start as for UCD but go right up gully at she-oak.

FA: David Gray & V Wills

5
17 Sedona Trad 25m

Climb wall and groove above small cave, a few metres left of Shattered Dreams to Double Ring Bolt belay.

FA: Dave Gray & V Wills, 2013

6
18 ** Shattered Dreams Sport 15m, 6

On the orange wall at a left diagonal seam. Up to ledge then right before back left to anchors. Best to abseil.

FA: V Wills & David Gray, 2013

7
Piper route Sport 20m

Up the blocky orange rock in the centre of the wall

FA: 2013

8
19 * Trigonometry Trad 20m

Start at right side of cave in centre of wall, past one bolt up groove and crack to overhung finish. (Can belay off flagpole bollard)

FA: David Gray & V Wills, 2013

9
17 * Bird Noises Trad 20m

Start as for HM, then take left leaning diagonal across wall to share finish with T.

FA: V Wills & David Gray, 2013

10
15 * Half Mast Trad 20m

Up the corner at the right hand end of the wall/ ledge. At top veer left.

FA: V Wills & David Gray

Activity

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