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Description

Head up through the Overhang past the Golden Wall to saddle. Climbs listed L to R from saddle around to vertical orange wall under the highest part of the mountain.

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 ** Renaissance Trad 20m

Start down from the saddle on the western side at undercut handcrack. Up the crack

FA: David Gray, V Wills, 2013

2
8 Lord Jim Trad 15m

AT the saddle there is a chimney, up chimney crawling under chockstone at top.

FA: David Gray, Lewis Carey, Michael Almond, 1980

3
18 Used Car Delah Trad 15m

Left leaning crack and gully system. Go left up corner to top out

FA: David Gray, V Wills, 2013

4
13 She-oak Crack Trad 15m

Start as for UCD but go right up gully at she-oak.

FA: David Gray, V Wills

5
17 Sedona Trad 25m

Climb wall and groove above small cave, a few metres left of Shattered Dreams to Double Ring Bolt belay.

FA: Dave Gray, V Wills, 2013

6
18 Shattered Dreams Sport 15m, 6

On the orange wall at a left diagonal seam. Up to ledge then right before back left to anchors. Best to abseil.

FA: V Wills, David Gray, 2013

7
Piper route Sport 20m

Up the blocky orange rock in the centre of the wall

FA: 2013

8
19 Trigonometry Trad 20m

Start at right side of cave in centre of wall, past one bolt up groove and crack to overhung finish. (Can belay off flagpole bollard)

FA: David Gray, V Wills, 2013

9
17 Bird Noises Trad 20m

Start as for HM, then take left leaning diagonal across wall to share finish with T.

FA: V Wills, David Gray, 2013

10
15 Half Mast Trad 20m

Up the corner at the right hand end of the wall/ ledge. At top veer left.

FA: V Wills, David Gray