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Description

The area between the base of the ramp and the gully up to the Beehive

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Routes

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Grade Route

starts on ledge at base of ramp up to DBB at right facing corner

project that goes left of scoops to anchors in corner

Starts 2m left of Sarah's Climb. Up into the first cave, then tough move to second cave and out pumpy finish. Fixed hangers.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2013

Crux is a pumper @ 3rd ring. On upper tier starting above handlebar route. Trends initially right and then left to anchors. Some poor rock towards the top. 60m rope won't get you and your belayer to the ground.

FA: John Wilde, 2004

Start at the top of Sarah's Climb. 5 rings and 2 U-bolt loweroff. Crux from 2nd ring to 5th.

FA: Justin Jefferson & John Wilde, 2004

Originally graded 22!! Start in the small alcove, up the U bolts to finish below the upper wall. Try not to drift to far right.

FA: Sarah Fieg

Step R from anchors on ramp and up through roof to easier ground. Shares anchors with PATB.

Start just left of the tree, 2m to the right of Sarah's Climb. Up trending left to halfway anchors. Continue up on the fixed hangers on a tough move off the ledge.

FA: Brad Williams, 2013

Start just to right of tree at base of wall and to left of crack. Up following fixed hangers crossing diagonal ramp. Extend draws to avoid rope drag. Up and left after taking weakness through roof, to shared anchors with AC.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2013

A way of access to upper tier. Can be soloed though rock a bit soapy. Some trad gear helps. Start right of large tree at hand sized crack then left up ramp.Go past anchors above SF, and continue to Sky Pilot.

FA: J Wilde

Start as for MB but go left after second bolt. Take care with flakes. Shares anchors with MB

FA: j Wilde, 2017

Its not the first route, but definitely an early one. The striking fist sized right slanting corner- crack. Clean orange rock half way up.

FA: John Wilde & Dan Rogers, 1984

Line of fixed hangers up the groove on the wall left and down from the Bee Hive Wall. New lower off anchors.

FA: John Wilde, 2006

Up the crack right of meat and beer to join that route at its second last bolt and shared anchors. Not clean at present.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Fiegs right wall.