Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Bulahdelah 381 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.223382, -32.412525

Unique Features And Strengths:

A sign banning rock climbing in the state forest (pretty much everything south of the lookout ) has appeared in late December 2014.

Description:

Bring loads of tape. The rock here is as hard as nails... and as sharp as them too. Loads of climbing to be had in all different styles. Almost every pinnacle, butress and wall has been bolted and there are loads of quality climbs to test yourself on.

The rock can feel quite soapy and can be a bit difficult to read causing climbers to look like they are "washing windows" looking for holds.

There are new routes going up all the time and it is important to respect the bolters and keep of all tatted routes.

Access Issues:

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Approach:

Access to the main areas is constantly changing due to the current roadworks. At the moment turn up Blanch St then into McKenzie and at a state forestry sign cross the new freeway on an overpass. The track to the mountain carpark goes straight up the hill. Unfortunately the rain in March 2013 has caused major damage and forestry is likely and should close this rd until repaired. At present- April 2013- the road has huge potholes and is difficult even for 4WDs. It is best to walk and follow the trail. Take the hairpin bend to the main carpark for Delah walls/ Boiler wall and the pinnacles or the right fork takes you to Argentina and Billy Woods wall.

Where To Stay:

Buladelah has several motels, cheap but basic rooms at the hotel, and a camping ground. Camping also possible in nearby Myall Lakes national park.

Ethic:

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

History:

First recorded climbs date from 1980, therehas had a steady stream of routes added ever since, most notably by John Wilde and Vanessa Wills.

1.1. Beehive Area 29 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.221633, -32.404681

Description:

THIS AREA IS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY!!!

CLIMBERS DO NOT HAVE PERMISSION TO CLIMB HERE!!!

1.2. Fieg's Overhang 28 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.222138, -32.405111

Description:

THIS AREA IS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY!!!

CLIMBERS DO NOT HAVE PERMISSION TO CLIMB HERE!!!

1.2.1. Flagpole Wall 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

Head up through the Overhang past the Golden Wall to saddle. Climbs listed L to R from saddle around to vertical orange wall under the highest part of the mountain.

1.2.2. Golden Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The middle tier accessed above the overhang

1.2.3. Fiegs cave 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The overhanging ramp

1.2.4. Fiegs right wall 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

The area between the base of the ramp and the gully up to the Beehive

1.3. Hoppy's Cave 36 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.222413, -32.405657

Description:

THIS AREA IS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY!!!

Climbing in the cave is quite unique. Some love it, others hate it. The rock can be sharp and the holds hard to find. Most of the routes are super steep and can be climbed in heavy rain.

1.3.1. The Terrace 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Walk up through the cave and rap/descend from anchors down to the ledge (easy grade 8 climb out)

1.3.2. Lower left of cave 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Currently only has 1 route on the wall. Approch as per the cave, but don't go up the fixed ropes, instead head left about 60m to a wall at the same level.

1.4. Lookout Area 35 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.223285, -32.409079

Description:

Once past the pinnacles there is a cutting. Head left just before this for the Lookout aka Pickpocket wall. Head left just after it to get to the Lookout Blocs.

1.4.1. Lookout wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

west facing, below cutting. Walk past all pinnacles towards lookout then drop down to the left under large boulders to the wall

1.4.2. Lookout Blocs 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.223285, -32.409079

Description:

For "Ficus Block" and "Grey Triangle", just after the cutting head left, up hill slightly and towards the north. Those boulders are above the pickpocket wall on the northern end.

For "Corner Bloc" and "Blokus" head left just before the cutting as for "Trent's Corner", a small section of short blocks to 8 metres high.

1.4.3. Trent's Corner 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

Up the slabby ramp above the lower climbs,best approached along higher terrace

Approach:

Walk to lookout trail to the cutting, head right just before the cutting and traverse 50m around the the hill to the small east facing wall.

1.4.4. The Middle East 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

A nice shaded wall on the eastern side of the mountain. Has a few sharp trad cracks and some good sport lines.

Approach:

At the cutting turn east down the hill, below Trent's Corner.

1.5. West side Alum mountain 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

1.5.1. Boiler wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.5.2. Woodie Wall 9 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.5.3. Uni buttress 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

A north facing orange buttress accessed from the lookout track

1.5.4. Main Ridge Line 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

1.6. East side Alum mountain 42 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.6.1. Tea wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.6.2. Grandpa wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

1.6.3. Argument Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

1.6.4. The Gift Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.7. The Pinnacles 61 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.222035, -32.411921

Description:

From the mountain carpark take the lookout track. This ascends some stairs at a water tower past a rusty boiler and then along a flat track. All the pinnacles are downhill to the left of the track- the town side. The first small pinnacle is 20 metres along. The remainder are after you walk under a cliff on the right of the track. Most climbs are on the town facing side and get afternoon sun. Climbs for each pinnacle are described from carpark side towards lookout side of pinnacle.

1.7.1. First Pinnacle 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.222664, -32.414589

Description:

On the left of the higher walking track- the first small pinnacle. Can be approached easier from lower walking track. past old water tower. About 50 metres from car park.

1.7.2. Belly button pinnacle 21 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.222089, -32.411136

Description:

The second pinnacle, large balanced rock on top. Approach by walking to top of next pinnacle (warty tree) and around both rather than down gully between them.

1.7.3. Warty tree pinnacle 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.222147, -32.410902

Description:

Third pinnacle, close to second. Flat top and no anchors on either route. Can sling large block on top of pinnacle

1.7.4. Lichen pinnacle 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.222073, -32.410495

Description:

Fourth pinnacle. Quite wide, the brushed streak of the first two climbs is visible from the track. Go down hill as for Bellybutton and warty tree pinnacles and contour across and around downhill side of pinnacle for other routes

1.7.5. Mini trackside pinnacle 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Immediately trackside there is a small pinnacle with one route on the town facing side. It is above the gully between lichen pinnacle and jumpstart pinnacle.

1.7.6. Dog Leg Pinnacle 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Fifth pinnacle. The next big pinnacle north along, most climbs on lookout/Pickpocket wall side. The baby pinnacle is tucked in at its base and 2 routes start atop this, or climb the easy route up the baby pinnacle first.

1.7.7. Baby pinnacle 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Sixth pinnacle, at base of 5th

1.7.8. Little Weed Pinnacle 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Small pinnacle with scoop in the centre. Climbs on downhill side. Described left to right.

1.7.9. Frankies pinnacle 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Downhill from Little Weed pinnacle, 3 routes on overhanging face. Another block to its north has no routes as yet.

1.8. Engineers Arete 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Description:

Start up the lookout track. At the boiler turn right, steeply up the hill passing a prominent boulder. More scree leads to the cliffs up to the left. The arete is in the middle of the wall

1.9. Perfect Area 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Approach:

From the saddle above the carpark (drop down the other side of the ridge and turn right for about 100m.

1.9.1. Perfect Buttress 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The first wall encountered south of the saddle. Ledgy on its northern aspect it has 2 routes on the south corner

1.9.2. Subperfect wall 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The wall immediately to the left and slightly above the buttress

1.9.3. Perfect Wall 8 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

A vertical wall with a wide crack at its right end

1.9.4. Toyland 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.9.5. Tox Box Cave 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A small and well featured cave facing west, The rock looks quite fragile but is surprising holding up well. The hangers used on these routes need to be changed as they are rusting quite badly!!!!

Approach:

Just west of the Toyland area. Just south of The Delah wall too.

1.10. Tierra del Fuego Bloc 6 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.225550, -32.417666

Description:

Above Argentina Pinnacle on ridge line. Climbs described L to R

1.11. Argentina Pinnacle. 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.225273, -32.417626

Description:

The stand alone pinnacle about 100m straight up the mountain from the last left hairpin in the main mountain road.

1.12. Orchids Buttress 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.225596, -32.418060

Description:

From the car park walk back down the road and onto the Ted Baker track as for Billy Woods wall. Turn left up the hill about 40 metres before Billy Woods wall and cross the ridge through a small notch buttress is immediately in front of you. Routes are described from lowest to highest (left to right)

1.13. Double Ewe buttress 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.14. Saddle area 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.224572, -32.414593

Description:

The saddle above the mountain car park.

Approach:

Go steeply up hill on ridge to the right side of quarry. Mr Enthusiasm area is just over the saddle, scramble up boulders to left. Saddle Wall is just before saddle on left, where the scramble around to air raid gully takes off.

1.14.1. Saddle Wall 5 routes in Unknown

Summary:

1.14.2. Mr Enthusiasm area 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:

1.15. The Delah Wall 25 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

To get here turn to face the cutting at the car park. Go straight up the steep hill on the right side of the quarry on a faint track, cross the saddle in the ridge and veer left and up to the 'Bumble Buttress' wall. 'Wildey on Wheels' is to the climbers left of the 'Baby pinnacle', 'Man Mountain' and NATATDT are in a gully behind the pinnacle, and the other routes on a wall to the right. Climbs are described left to right. If you continue past a large burnt stump for 20 metres you will be at the 'No Cams wall' with 'Trickey Dickey' being the first route on the arete. Drop down for 'Look Mum No Cams'.

1.15.1. The Dreaming Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

10 metres right of No Cams wall, overhung with a thin diagonal seam being its only feature.

1.15.2. No cams area 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

20 metres to the right of bumble buttress on a separate wall

1.15.3. Bumble Buttress 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

To get here go straight up the hill on the right side of the quarry from the mountain car park, cross the saddle in the ridge and veer left and up to the wall. Wildey on Wheels is to the climbers left of the baby pinnacle, Man Mountain and NATATDT are in a gully behind the pinnacle, and the other routes on a wall to the right. Climbs are described left to right.

1.16. Air Raid Gully 5 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.224391, -32.414452

Description:

Just before reaching the saddle above the mountain car park scramble through a gap between the roofcapped wall and a block then contour around into the gully with a steep cavernous wall

1.17. Billy Woods wall 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.225438, -32.418217

Description:

Some long quality sport routes on the south western side of the mountain. Afternoon sun through the trees.

Approach:

From the sharp left-hand bend in the tourist road aproximatly400m before the main mountain car park, park here. Follow the trail south for 200m along track the head directly up the hill. After another 100m you should be below a few slab routes.

1.18. The White pinnacle 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.225224, -32.419323

Description:

At the top of the stairs on the Ted Baker Track

1.19. Johnny's secret wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad