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South Wall - Main

  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 35min
  • Photos: 9
  • Ascents: 252

Description

Gets the sun all day up high, hence good for winter climbing. However the Siblings headwall gets shade from about 4pm in the warmer months, allowing a few hours for shady evening climbing if you time your approach accordingly.

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Access issues inherited from Bungonia Gorge

The park is occasionally closed for feral animal control. Check here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/alert/state-alerts

Approach

Park at William Mitchell carpark. Most people walk down, to do this follow the Red Track into the slot canyon (25-30 minutes). Turn right when you reach the creek bed. Walk downstream for a few minutes; the south wall is on your right.

It is also possible to abseil in. Get to the top of Siblings by walking down the Red Track for 5minutes until the first 10m high outcrop appears about 100m to your left, where you will find a well trodden path which breaks off to the right and then traverses across the hillside for about 300m. Once you reach the front of a broad ridge, the top of Siblings is about 100m down the ridge. The rap chains are a few metres from the clifftop, but you still need to approach with caution as the scree is a bit loose. Bring a rope protector for the top edge; and its probably best to fix a rope on the top abseil at least. You can get to the riverbed in 4 abseils (approx 30m, 55m, 55m, 55m). It might even be possible in three long abseils, given that from the clifftop to fifth belay is 60-65m (keep up a swing), fifth belay to third belay is 60-65m, and third belay to ground/bouldertops is about 60-70m(??). The three abseil approach has NOT been tested, but there are plenty of intermediate bolted anchors if you needed to change tactics.

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Descent notes

Many routes top out. To get back to the car its a pretty easy (15-20 minute) walk uphill. Option 1 is to follow the ridge (above Siblings) all the way to the hilltop (~10 minutes), then turn left and follow the plateau rim left through the scrub for about 300m to reach Bungonia Lookdown. Option 2 is to go up the ridge above Siblings for about 100m then pick up a well-trodden trail which heads R (W) and traverses for about 300m into the gully to join the Red Track. Option 1 is quicker if you have a car at the Lookdown but Option 2 is just as quick to the Red Track carpark and is better graded (less steep bits).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

These routes are located at the downstream end of the gorge, on a slick water polished grey slab directly above the boulder choke section. There are a smattering of bolts.

This route is the furthest downstream, about 2m left of the Pulsar corner.

  1. 25m (24) A wide bridge across to a bolt (hanger and nut missing - 2014). Sustained climbing past 5 more FHs. Chain belay.

  2. 25m (21) A fun pitch with good pro. Up the crack then left to a bolt, traverse left and up a slippery wall to a ledge. Rap off tree.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull pitch 1 1990. Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell & Brogan Bunt pitch 2 1989, 1990

Nice low angle trad route with mostly good gear. Should be more popular - possibly the best easy trad route in the gorge?

  1. 20m (18) Bridge across from the large boulder until the subtle corner crack can be gained. Up this until it ends, then traverse left to flake and up it to left end of small ledge and rap/belay bolts.

  2. 25m (18) Continue up trad protected corner crack until it ends then step left and delicately up to a small tree and bizarre but bomber rap anchor.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Bill Begg & Matt Madin, 1985

Named after a Lithium battery that made an impressive couple of ricochets on its way from 250m up to its grave in the bottom of the gorge somewhere never to be seen again. If you find it, dont lick it. The route is set up so it can be rapped in from the top with DRBB the whole way, bring 2 x 70m for this. It will provide access to a large section of this wall that has lots of rock. The 1st pitch and pitch12 (rap in).have been sent and are ok to climb, but rest is a closed project. Will be 12 pitches, equaling Red Supergiant one of the longest routes in the Gorge. Pitches 2-11 are currently being cleaned and bolted so stay off please.

  1. 20m (22) Start as for Pulsar for first couple of metres then step right to smaller right facing flake and U-bolt. Up flake and wall above to small ledge and belay/rap anchors. This pitch is all bolts. 6 in total.

  2. 40m () Bolted finger crack weakness just right of Pulsar corner then slab and back into trad protected finger crack to under bulge. Over bulge with difficulty (bolts) and up technical slab to right leading flake feature and juggier wall to belay ledge on the left and rap belay/rapp anchor. 11 bolts on this pitch.

  3. 30m () Straight up slab above then trend left to arete. Up this onto wall with a hard move back left at the jugs and poor rock. A fixed sling helps a hard to clip bolt. Finish up juggy wall to large ledge and belay/rap anchors.

  4. 15m () Easy slab up and left to base of monster tufa and headwall.

  5. 40m () Stem up monster tufa right trending right then L to hanging belay, mega pitch. Will be hard!

  6. 15m () From hanging belay head up and R to ledge

  7. 20m () Easy crack then chossy easy corner going up and right to large dirty ledge. All bolts.

  8. 40m () Up nice grey and orange rock to belay on small ledge below crack and corner.

  9. 15m () Follow crack and corner to step up L at the top of corner to a sloping ledge and DRBB.

  10. 20m (22-24?) Steep face on big holds and scooped pockets to ledge and DRBB.

  11. 20m (23-25?) Some awkward chimneying and strenuous moves abound

  12. 20m (23) Small holds to start on the arete leads to some stemming up the R leading corner to the top and the final moves of bliss to the top anchors MB, LD 21 June 2015.

  13. 5m (1) Best to stay roped and sling around a tree to keep things safe.

Set by Matt Brooks, Neil Monteith & Leith Dawes, Aug 2014

FA: Neil Monteith & Richard Sonnerdale (pitch 1 only), 11 Oct 2014

The next line right with four spaced FHs. Apparently there is no rap anchor so after the last bolt and below the overlap traverse left a long way to rap anchors above Pulsar.

FA: Scott Camps, 1985

The grotty slab next right.

Up the slab past three bolts to ledge and tree.

50m upstream from the Pulsar Slab, where the jungle vegetation comes right down to the base of the cliff.

Can be used as a variant start to 'Red Supergiant'.

  1. 40m (21) Up the thin crack and wall to overlap. Follow the line leftwards and up past a fixed peg to a ledge and tree. Now either take the crack above all the way or merge into the left crack. Finish easily up the arete to a good stance with bolts.

  2. 25m (17) Move up the right side of the arete and continue trending right to the 2nd belay on 'Red Supergiant'.

FA: Will Moon & Bruce Cameron, 1985

An alpine mega classic. Long loose and natural. Finishes at the highest point on the cliff, the Cooee Lookdown. Take plenty of long slings and big friends.

Start: A chipped square marks the start.

  1. 45m (20) Delicate moves up the slab to a series of ledges. Move leftwards into the corner and up it. A steep pull onto the ledge leads to the anchors.

  2. 45m (20) Up 2m, then follow holds leading right. Continue right to a corner in the overlap (wires). Over this (crux) to easier ground and tree. Trend leftwards, through overlap at 6m, then onto belay 8m above.

  3. 50m (16) Left to a corner, up this and through the overlap. Up the ramp to a tree.

  4. 50m (12) Scrub bash up the ramp to a tree.

  5. 45m (13) Deciding when to move right is tricky. Up for 10m. Move right on ledges, over and across some loose big blocks, moving horizontally right. Belay at the top of a block at the foot of the orange rock with some corners above.

  6. 30m (18) Much steeper, but well protected. Step right and up the corner. Over some choss, left a touch then up the next corner to belay.

  7. 50m (20) This pitch wanders, is fairly run out, and has a hard pockety start. Beware rope drag. Up over the bulge and trend right. Weave rightwards to avoid the very steep stuff, then step up and trend horizontally left to the splitter crack. Follow this corner up, then step right onto the ramp and set up belay in the cave.

  8. 50m (17 M1) (17A1) Scramble rightwards past a large stalactite to the end of the ramp. Drop down and right to a ledge at the base of the corner with the bolt in it. Aid past the bolt to a high #4 friend. This can be freed at grade 23. Pull onto easy ground and up this to a big overhang with large pockets. Move delicately up and rightwards onto the wall. Go up and over right to a #4 tube chock in a neat pocket. Now up the corner to the old lookout.

FA: John Fantini & Dave Magregor, 1985

An awesome excursion taking the line of most resistance up the tallest section of the south wall. The route takes in some wild and physical territory as it journeys up the wall to its final crux just below the rim of the gorge. Starts on the clean section of slab a short distance right of the base of Red Supergiant and just before the base of the wall becomes a jungle. It is easily identified by the stainless steel fixed hangers meandering up the slab and into the steepness beyond. Pitch grades - 23, 24, 28, 27, 23, 23, 26, 29, 20

Set by lee cossey, 21 Nov 2016

FFA: lee cossey & Andrea Hah, 26 Aug 2017

Takes a line through the big orange overhang left of its apex.

  1. -m (-) (25/26)

  2. -m (-) (23)

  3. -m (-) (20)

  4. -m (-) (28?) The pitch through the huge orange overhang.

From the ledge up through the rooflet and the wall above.

FA: Steve Schnell, 1989

Starts left of Nitro Express. From the river bed skirt up and along a ledge to near its end. All bolts and for Bungonia very clean with little loose rock.

  1. 30m 23 Follow line of bolts on the right to an overlap at half height with a heinous mantle (crux) then trend up and left to DBB next to bushes. Missing first bolt but one can stick clip the second bolt from the ledge.

  2. 20m 21 Follow bolts up and left across slab then up and through the short steep wall to ledge and DBB.

    Move to anchors on the left of the ledge

  3. 60m 22 up left of first bolt then follow bolts right then up a long slab and an orange tufa 10m below the overhang. At last bolt traverse right to the anchor at the DBB on ledge.

  4. 30m 25 the Money pitch. Climb up the slab till the start of the steep rock, 3 bolts. Climb the juggy run out to the first bolt on the left. Follow very steep ground to mantle the tufa blob!. Jump off the tufa and follow the bolts up right then left to the ledge above. Long draws can help with rope drag (The tufas to the left is a different alt finish)

  5. 20m 23 Climb the steep chimney and wall to a ledge. Head right and up the gap between the trees to a DBB. Could use a bolt to climb between ledges but is only grade 10.

    Head right along this ledge to a DRBB 10m.

  6. 60m 22 follow the bolts to face crux moves and then wander to the top on easier terrain. Rope stretcher.

    Belay off trees

Set by Duncan Hunter, Michael Demarco & Johannes Friedl

FFA: Duncan Hunter

FA: Duncan Hunter & Michael Demarco, 15 Mar 2016

Variant to Air Malta overhang. Kia kaha is a Māori phrase used by the people of New Zealand meaning stay strong, used as an affirmation. The phrase has significant meaning for Māori: popularised through its usage by the 28th Māori Battalion during World War II, it is found in titles of books and songs, as well as a motto. 1/ 30m 26 Amaze balls no rest till the end. Huge holds and huge moves. 2/ 20m 27 Bouldery climbing to the crux tufa finish

FA: Duncan Hunter

FFA: Mark Rewi & Duncan Hunter, 26 Mar 2016

Awesome, can be combined with Screaming Tribesmen to make a sustained route to the top. Starts towards the left-hand end of a left-leaning ramp.

  1. 25m (19) Up through the overlap past 2 bolts to the tree and belay.

  2. 30m (22) Through the overhang on bolts and then on wires and bolts.

  3. 15m (23) Up the corner, then move left to the tree belay.

  4. 45m (23) Desperate moves through the bulge then up the slab. Either go right to the belay on 'Iron Curtain', or continue up through the stalactites to the belay at the base of the orange headwall.

FA: John Fantini & Keith Bell, 1991

As slippery as a butcher's dick.

Start 5m right of 'Nitro Express'.

Up the technical wall past 3 bolts to a good #2 Friend. Step left and pad your way left into the crack. Climb the crack and finish up past several more bolts. Belay on ledge to the left as for 'Nitro Express' P1.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Cath Eadie & Glenn Robbins, 1989

A great route to start with in the gorge, but it only climbs halfway up the wall. Well protected and not too hard. If you are falling up it with your eyes closed try continuing up 'Screaming Tribesman' to top out.

  1. 35m (21) The start is on the right hand end of a left-leaning ramp. Up a few moves, step right, clip a bolt, up to another bolt and a thin move to a pocket on the left. Now cruise through to a bolt belay behind the tree.

  2. 30m (22) Move left for about 5m until reaching some bolts heading through an overlap. Straight up past the abseil chains and through another overlap to a corner. Some tricky moves to exit the corner on the left and up to a double bolt/friend belay.

  3. 30m (22) Move left from the belay, slot in a wire then power on up the bulging wall and slab above. At about 25m clip a bolt and move right to a comfortable ledge belay. Can be combined with Pitch 4 with 50m ropes as a full 51m mega pitch.

  4. 30m (18) A good pitch. Move back out left and up the slab to the stalactite and to some threads. Up these, then follow the bolts up and slightly left over some loose ground. Belay at the base of the headwall.

FA: Pitch 1: Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull, Brogan Bunt: Pitches 2 to 4: Andrew Bull & Craig Kentwell 1990, 1990

FA: David (Bobby) Gilbert & Greg Coterill, 1988

A rarely repeated long involved adventure with very tricky route finding, some choss rock and fiddly gear. Bring a full rack, doubles of everything and lots of tiny cams. Double ropes a must, even if you are just using them for retreat! It's much more consumer friendly, and a classic climb, if you do 'Iron Curtain' then pitches 6-9 of this route.

  1. 35m (22) This first pitch was originally called 'Bob Yabbie' by visiting first ascentionists David Gilbert and Greg Coterill. Up the dirty badly protected slab to a bulge with a bolt. Difficult through the bulge, then more easily up the slabby cracks and pods (usually full of dirt) to a vegetated ledge with a bolt belay.

  2. 25m (21) Directly up past the overlap to a hanging good double friend belay at 25m.

  3. 20m (20) A good pitch. Short and interesting weaving up to a ledge and tree on the left.

  4. 15m (17) Out right side of ledge and up flake for a few metres until you can traverse hard left to right edge of ledge. Belay off two fixed pins which need to be unearthed. Originally graded 12!

  5. 40m (18) Was originally described as "interesting and varied" which translates into choss and danger. Climb directly up and leftwards on disintegrating slab to the tufa hole above. Sink the only good bit of gear on the pitch (3.5 friend) and continue up leftwards past dodgy chicken heads to traverse hard left over scary death flakes to DBB at the base of the orange headwall. Ignore bit of tat up high on traverse.

  6. 22m (23) Kickarse. A brilliant pitch. Head up the right-hand weakness on good wires and cams, going for the 'thank god' squeeze chimney rest. Wriggle forth. DBB (fixed hangers) plus a U bolt on the left edge of the ledge.

  7. 35m (25) (Or 22M1) This pitch traverses a long way right to the top of the pedestal on average rock, and then moves back left on the face above, finishing directly above the belay. Don't be fooled by the bolts leading directly up from the belay, these are for asteroids (25,26). From the top of the pedestal gymnastic moves past bolts and small cams lead to pockets out left and more bolts. Take care with the final moves (wires) to the DBB.

  8. 40m (19) Wandering. Head up the wall on pockets. Move right several metres, bridge across a corner and keep moving up and right up the ramp to a thread and bolt belay.

  9. 45m (15) Up following a corner system. Natural belay.

FA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, Dave Magregor worked on it. John Fantini, Ed Garnett made the first complete ascent & early's., 1990

1 26
2 15
3 20
4 24
5 20
6 23

This route starts 5 pitches up the wall! Best accessed by climbing all of Iron Curtain, then the first pitch of Screaming Tribesman. Asteroids starts at this belay.

  1. 30m (26) Climb directly up off the belay following 6 Us and 5 old fixed hangers to a two U bolt belay on foot ledge. The route follows some of the steepest terrain and huge orange tufa. by far some of the best climbing in the gorge at any grade. The initial three bolts is the crux but the whole pitch is very pumpy and sustained too! Well protected and easy to aid at 22/A1.

  2. 35m (16) Traverse left for about 20m (passing a set of double FIXE hangers at about 10m) then down climb a 5m section of vegetated wall past two more FIXE hangers, then keep traversing left for another 10m. Look for the double U bolt belay.

  3. 30m (20) Climb past two FIXE hangers to a ledge the continue on rings to the double U bolt belay on a pleasant grey wall.

  4. 25m (24) Great pockets and orange wall climbing with many bolts to a ledge and double U bolt belay.

  5. 15m (20) Straightforward bolted climbing - at the top of the hard stuff you need to traverse left for about 4m then over a bulge past last bolt to double U bolt belay below large orange wall.

  6. 45m (23) Well bolted sport climbing - mostly cruisy jug hauling then a tricky bulgy finish. Once you top out on the 'rock-climbing' part you scramble up ledges and vegetation for another 15m to top of the wall (still on belay). Belay off trees.

Above this to get back to the car park walk left for 30m to the old Cooee lookout and old fences, then follow the overgrown green track to the car up the hill.

I reckon this new route by itself is two stars and combining it with Iron Curtain makes an awesome three star day of cranking! I can't think of many other sustained long routes in mainland Australia at that length? It's gotta be 350+ metres? Way longer than Evolution or Siblings.

Plenty of loose rock on all new pitches - bring a helmet and don't expect pristine Euro limestone...

FFA: Duncan Hunter, 2011

A spectacular pitch tackling a very steep line through the Screaming Tribesmen orange cave. A variant on the best pitch of 'Screaming Tribesman' but even more awesome and harder.

Start: Start at a bomber gear belay just down and right of the DBB atop the 5th pitch of Iron Curtain/ Nitro Express/ 'Screaming Tribesman'.

FA: Ken Luck & Andrew McAuley, 1999

Start: Starts just left of 'Evolution'.

  1. 45m (20) Start up an obvious weakness via a rising rightwards sloping break. After 3m, traverse leftwards and up to a horizontal weakness to its left end. Continue up on small face holds past a bolt to a small niche and trend horizontally right for 4m and up to a big tree.

  2. 45m (21) Continue up the steep wall to the left of the tree on a series of interesting face moves for 10m to gain a ramp heading up and right. Scramble up the ramp until where it steepens (wires) move right, then back left (1 friend) and up to double bolt belay at wobbly tree (shared with 'Evolution' pitch 3).

  3. 25m (21) Move 4m right and slightly down until under steep corner. More strenuously up corner/groove to a small orange cave (bolt belay shared with 'Jump Master').

  4. 50m (20) Head out leftwards from cave and to the top of a block (the DBB at the top of 'Evolution' pitch 4). Leave the bolts of 'Evolution' to your left, and head up to rightwards traverse on pocketed break with good friends (crossing the mixed line of 'Jump Master'). Head upwards again at thin crack which leads to a left facing flake-corner. Slab out a couple of meters at the top to mantle loose rock into the "big cave".

  5. 12m (12) Exit carefully right from the big cave (loose rock), traverse right along sloping ledge, then up 5m a small cave at the foot of the steep groove.

  6. 25m (21) Up the overhanging groove on fantastic holds to chimney. Continue up to small ledge on left side. Move left 2m and up to the hanging belay on bomber nuts (big hexes useful)

  7. 40m (22) The 'Master Blaster' pitch. Enjoyable climbing with a dash of exposure. Reminiscent of the popular 22's at Upper Shipley. Climb the juggy groove/crack to its end, then cut loose leftwards on big holds. Continue up a couple of bodylengths to a sit-down rest in a small cave. Exit the cave diagonally up and right past a couple of big threads to easier ground. (take a double rack and lots of slings for this pitch)

FA: John Fantini & Keith Bell, 1990

FFA: First claimed ascent of top pitch, Chris Ling, Damian Jovanovic & May have been freed earlier, Oct 2016

(18M1). "See topo" they said......this route isn't shown on The Crag topo! Details unsure, however a likely situation is that it shares the start of Red Heat before traversing right, sharing the end of the first pitch of Evolution. Keep going past Evolution's belay to to bolted belay 10m right on the same ledge (shared with Jump Master and 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'). Up the next pitch and a half of Reason for Man (passing a couple of bolts), before traversing left back across 'The Bridge' and into Red Heat for a pitch or so to gain the large 'Evolution cave'. 'Old and Grey' then traverses left a pitch to join Scorpion to the top of the wall. Note that Old and Grey predates all the other routes on this wall. A great effort for the time, but unlikely to appeal to anyone sane these days.

FA: Ian Brown & Don Fletcher, 1977

As per 'Evolution' to double bolt belay end pitch 3.

Start: Start in the rainforest 30m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, it's not a taste of what's to come.

  1. 15m (15) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 1.

  2. 35m (22) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 2.

  3. 40m (21) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 3.

  4. 25m (18) Easily up slab past 'Evolution' and 'Scorpion' to small tree, past this to ring bolt then continue under overhang to double ring belay.

  5. 40m (24) 'Steep' but easy through overhang to thread, step right then up wall with big holds, rings and friends (3.5 essential in bombproof slot). Rest at small stance as the wall becomes slightly off vertical, crux moves past last 3 or 4 rings. DRB belay at stance.

  6. 30m (24) Good pitch, difficult to onsite. Awkward slab to stance below a short overhanging wall, pumpy and technical up the wall then hard moves to gain small ledge, bouldery moves to step left and get established on another short steep wall which leads to ledge. This is the big ledge where you belay for the last pitch of 'Old and Grey', 'Scorpion' & 'Storm Front'. DRB belay

  7. 30m (25) Great pitch, mostly rings, friends in final crack. 'Steep' slab leads to short steep wall with hard moves, then a short easy slab. Traverse on to steep wall above the overhang and very delicate climbing for several metres to a pocket, (crux). Fine climbing up wall to base of crack, crack and flake for several metres to small ledge. DRB belay.

  8. 20m (19) Easy but nice wall to top. Thread and ring bolt belay.

FA: M Wilson & J Clark, 2001

Gobsmackingly good. Take a light rack of friends (#0.5-#3) (Camalots .4-2) and wires and about 16 quickdraws (with plenty of long draws).

Start: Start in the rainforest 15m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. From the riverbed scramble up the broken blocks to the base of the wall proper. Belay from here. The climbing starts underneath the bush canopy, under a water-run/chimney/hole thing. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, it's not a taste of what's to come.

  1. 15m (15) All trad. Move up a few moves under the hole thing, then step left onto a leftward sloping ramp, and trend up L for 5m. Pull over the bulge then traverse 5m back right to DBB on small grassy ledge.

  2. 30m (22) FH, over bulge onto small ledge (trad) and move R. Trickily up past 2 FHs to a fixed thread at 12m (new as of 2012). Up the slab past #2 cam and 2FHs, then trend easily L to DFH on comfy grassy ledge.

  3. 35m (21) Step R then up face and crack (2 FHs, trad, FH) to join a rightwards sloping ramp. Follow this 15m up and right until it steepens. Place a few bomber wires, then tricky moves to the right, then a bit necky up and back left to a hidden jug (cam) and tricky mantle to gain a small ledge with DFH.

  4. 25m (23) The first of 3 amazing pitches. Step right then up the corner to great cams. Pull up right, to the line of 11 bolts and incredible moves up the steep face using a zillion diagonal pockets. Past the last bolt a tricky span R gains a short corner and DBB on top of the spike.

  5. 30m (22) Follow the bolts up the faint open corner and straight over a high bulge, to belay in the sublime luxury of the huge orange cave (lunch time!). 9 FHs, then a #2 cam, then a chain belay. A ripsnorter.

  6. 25m (24) Follow the bolts trending left out of the left side of the cave (the more rusty bolts heading up then R through steep ground are Pump Lust). Amazing sustained pumpy climbing on fantastic orange rock, mainly bolts with mid size wires and a 2-3 cam near the top. DBB.

  7. 45m (23 M1/25) Up and left past some bolts, pulling on a couple to reach a jug. After the aid moves, don't get suckered straight up to the tempting bolts, which are for various good but harder alternate finishes. Instead trend up and left past a small tree on the arête. Go L around the arete to join a bridging corner (wires) for 10m, then a dirt/scree scramble for about 15-20m. Keep going until you find a gumtree to belay off (55m to the tree), the casuarinas (she-oaks) are totally unreliable.

FA: Andrew McAuley, Vicki O'Malley & Greg James., 1997

An aesthetic and fitting finish to Evolution for those seeking a little more action at the end of the day. Originally climbed onsight due to poor route finding with insufficient gear. A subsequent repeat ascentionist of the pitch however found an additional placement making it quite reasonable. Be sure to take a thin spectra/dyneema sling. Climb as for Evolution pitch 7 for the first 3-4 bolts as they head through the initial boulder problem and then leftward. From the short section of grey tufas and cam placements, continue straight up in the direction of a lone bolt 5m above. From this bolt traverse right along a thin break with delicate moves to finish up the low angled terrain and corner (now shared with Pumpmaster).

FA: Lee Cossey, 2000

Between 'Evolution Direct Finish' and 'The Other End of Evolution'. After freeing past the first three bolts on Evolution P7 take a long rest on the ledge, then head straight up past 9 more bolts.

FA: Rikard Hedman, 18 Oct 2015

A harder exit to Evolution, without the bushwhacking. Start with the bolt ladder on the last pitch of Evolution (aid 3 bolts or free at grade 26), then head diagonally right past a bolt into a scoopy recess. From the top of the recess exit left through the overhang, then straight up to pull over onto a slab. Continue straight up and then left to join 'Pumpmaster'. A couple of long draws on the bolts in the recess help reduce rope drag.

FA: Rikard Hedman, 15 Aug 2015

Good, free of charge, training to reach flawlessness. As for 'The Other End of Evolution' to the top of the recess. Exit this to the right into a a narrower vertical scoop. Funky moves straight up more scoops and a flake until you pull over onto the slab. To finish either head straight up past two more bolts to anchor or diagonally right to Jumpmaster belay.

FA: Rikard Hedman & Damian Jovanovic, 6 Aug 2015

Do a move or two as for 'Evolution' pitch 6, then trend R following the line of bolts up the left hand side of the big cave, eventually joining 'Jump Master' at the top of its first pitch.

Start: Start as for 'Evolution' pitch 6.

FA: George Feig late 90s, 2000

P1-4 are the most direct and consistent route to the big cave, well protected with bolts and plenty of gear. P6 is another excellent Bungers headwall pitch. Take 14 or so quickdraws, a few slings, a set of nuts and cams from green alien to #3 camalot, double cams from fingers to hands might be helpful on p4.

Start 3m right of Evolution, first bolt can be clipped by standing in tree.

  1. 15m (19) Straight up on flakey jugs past two bolts and gear. Clip 3rd bolt then head diagonally right and up to DBB shared with 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'. 4 bolts plus gear

  2. 40m (21) Straight up from the belay. At about 15m follow bolts left a couple of metres to a tricky mantle. Continue up the slab above past gear and bolts. Where the climbing eases off again traverse right across scoop. Up to a comfy belay ledge via the 2m arete with a bolt (stay well away from the dihedral filled with bush and loose blocks!) DBB shared with The Bridge. 8 bolts plus gear

  3. 45m (22) From just left of the belay head straight up the steep wall and the delicate slab above. At 20m, ignore the comfy ledge to your right and blast straight up the rounded prow. At about 40m, follow bolts left 5m to DBB hidden on the side of a small orange cave (shared with Red Heat). Better to belay semi-hanging on the slab rather than grovel in the cave. 12 bolts plus gear

  4. 50m (22) Traverse right out of belay hole, then climb up trending vaguely right. At the cave, mantle carefully and head to DBB at back right (a rope-stretching 50 metres!). This pitch is long and eats cams, take your full rack. 10ish bolts

  5. 20m (23) Punchy. Start easily up the right wall of the cave then a short section of steepness (bolts and gear) to a niche. Traverse left and up past two more bolts, through a gap to finish at a semi-hanging DBB.

  6. 30m (25) Cool, pumpy sections separated by excellent rests. Not too hard, but quite sequency. Mostly bolts with a few key bits of gear, take 3 or 4 60cm slings. After the steepness ends, climb easy 6m slab up rightwards past good gear to DBB on top of cliff. 10 bolts plus gear

FFA: Andrew Bull early 90s & P5-6, 1990

FA: John Fantini early 90s & P5-6, 1990

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Chris Ling, Oliver Story, Daniel Fisher (work experience kid), Sarah Truscott & P1-4, 2015

Storm Front basically runs to the right of Evolution. Nasty loose blocks on ledges, very dirty rock, and vegetation filled cracks are the selling points of this gem. The climb either starts up Evolution, or 5m right (up the horrible hole thing), no idea which start is correct. On pitch 1 there is a 10m wide, delicate, rock arch/flake that you actually climb through (about 40m up, can be seen from the creek bed). "The last two pitches are not recommended" (first ascentionists)....a more objective view might be that the last seven pitches are not recommended!

  1. 45m (20) Up the flake?, step left and up to a ledge, traverse 3m left, up, then right through the obvious arch on the right. Now up to the belay.

  2. 40m (20) Slightly left to a tree bowl and climb the steep wall at the rear (seriously scary stuff here. Loose blocks, dirty rock, and vegetated cracks). Go to where the crack splits, left is Red Heat, right is 'Storm Front'. Up the right crack and over a block to belay on nuts.

  3. 40m (20) Follow up the crack.

  4. 40m (17) Up the easy crack above to big cave (probably the same as Red Heat here).

  5. 35m (20) Go left from the left side of the cave on a rising traverse left to a ledge.

  6. 40m (21) From the right edge of the ledge, go straight up to a bolt and nuts, then up and right (crux) to a tree belay.

  7. 30m (10) Continue easily to the top.

FA: Mark Wilson & Richard Watts late '80s, 2000

1 22
2 23
3 19
4 23
5 24
6 23
7 26

A Bungonia mega-route.

Start at the large R-facing flakes in the chasm. 10m right of Evolution, and a few metres left of Andrew's Arete / left and round the corner from Siblings.

Gear: single set of nuts; #0.3 Camalot (or green Alien or #1 Mastercam) to #3 Camalot, (optional: doubles to #1 Camalot); 120cm sling; several 60cm slings; 15 or so quickdraws.

  1. 20m 22. Smashing warm-up. Overhanging layback flakes up to hard moves then easy slab to DBB. 5 bolts plus threads and gear. An easier but lower quality varient traverses in from the left on the huge flake.

  2. 35m 23. Slabby pitch with hard crux. Shares first 5m of pitch with Jumpmaster. After second bolt, follow rightwards branch of bolts. At the top of pitch, head for the large tree atop the 2m vertical step (bit of loose rock here). DBB behind the large tree. 10 bolts plus gear.

  3. 20m 19. Start 3m right of the belay. Boulder the overhang past two bolts. Traverse right above the bolt to a hollow crack with large flakes and threads (shared with 'Reason for Man'). Straight up to DBB on ledge. 2 bolts, gear including several threads.

  4. 28m 22. Excellent pumpy climbing. Follow line of spaced bolts with good gear in between (take it all for this pitch). 8ish bolts

  5. 35m 24. Cool, tricky climbing straight off the belay then step right to gain incipient crack and gear. Up to a section of easy choss (120cm thread in small cave). Traverse right on fantastic pockets (save #3 camalot) till the climbing eases. Up to DBB on the right edge of the huge cave (beware of loose scree in cave). 7 bolts and gear.

  6. 25m 22. Good pitch on red rock. From the right edge of the cave traverse right a couple of metres then wander up cracks and face to semi-hanging DBB on the left. Lots of bolts and gear.

  7. 30m 25. Steep, pumpy pitch with a couple of good rests. Step left from the belay then follow the bolts into the stratosphere. 11 bolts plus a couple of nuts and finger-sized cams.

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, Chris Ling, Carl Godfrey, Nick Herrald & Sarah Truscott, 2015

An old time epic.

  1. 35m (22) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.

  2. -m (19) Start as for 2nd pitch of 'Reason For Man' but instead of trending slightly right go straight up. Then trend left for the rest of this pitch.

  3. -m (17) Continue to trend left on natural gear to DBB at wobbly tree (shared with 'Evolution' and Red Heat).

  4. 50m (21) Up easily for a few metres to connect into a weakness at the start of the orange rock. Follow this junction up and left to find a groove and flake. Up these which provide some interesting moments, to gain the big block visible from the bottom of the gorge.

  5. 45m (21) Head right for 3m and weave your way through blankness. A friend break and then trend up and left to a break and belay.

  6. 45m (19) Move horizontally right to a nose and eventually get some runners in after the hard stuff is over. Continue upwards over a steep bulge past an old carrot bolt on good rock to finish at a sit down belay.

  7. 40m (10) Scramble to top.

FA: John Fantini & Dave Sargent, 1985

How brave are you feeling? This old traddy thing shares the first pitch with Siblings, then most of the second to fourth pitches with Old and Grey, before heading a long way right at the base of the red wall to find a scary way through to the top.

  1. 35m (22) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.

  2. 45m (19) Move 10m left of the chain belay (possibly rebelay at bolt anchor shared with Jump Master, 'The Bridge', 'Old and Grey'), climb the wall via a partially bolted groove straight up to where it slabs off. Traverse right about 5m and climb 2m crack up to ledge with big tree. Bolt belay.

  3. 30m (17) Leave the ledge via flake/corner on right (or do the bouldery direct start past 2 bolts as for The Bridge). Up to the big ledge via nice pockety cracky features to DBB on ledge (shared with 'The Bridge').

  4. 30m (17) From the left edge of the ledge take the diagonal line of least resistance heading rightwards to a belay in a smallish cave. Crosses 'The Bridge' above its second bolt.

  5. 45m (20) A serious pitch. Move right from the cave to a bolt. Now directly upwards to a ramp and some good wires. Continue up and rightwards in a groove and on some mediocre rock. Finish on a ledge (base of the over hanging red wall)

  6. 45m (14) Step right and move around right above (below?) the overhang to another big ledge at 45m.

  7. 50m (22) Walk right along the ramp to a sling around a stalactite before launching onto steep ground above. Up ribs and cracks to a hard crank at 35m. More easily to top.

FA: John Fantini & Tony Barten, 1985

Excellent continuous climbing that pushes a direct line up the centre of the South Wall.

The first 4 pitches of this route makes for a straight forward sports climb that is easy to get off in 2 raps if climbing with double ropes. Sport bolted over 6 long days.

  1. (24) 25m Start as for ‘Andrews Arête’, hard start moves. (21 if you pull the first two bolts)

  2. (21) 40m Continue up following the Siblings bolts until a small corner with a sapling and 'Lucky' bolt hangers. Follow bolts up and right to a bolt belay in pod.

  3. (19) 30m Straight up the blunt arête to the green ledge, traverse right 5m to roomy belay with bolts.

  4. (24) 25m Great face climbing to a hanging belay.

  5. (26) 50m Up right on big holds to a thin punchy crux then continue up joining ‘Overture to the Sun’ briefly and a long runout on easy climbing to belay at the base of the orange wall to the right of the Siblings belay. Chain belay.

  6. (30) 30m Orange headwall. Climb the blunt arête with great holds and follow bolts to a semi hanging belay.

  7. (27) 30m Exposure at its best, continue up and pull through committing lip (crux) then up on good hold to finish at chain. Walk back to the car park up the hill.

FFA: Jan (Czech)

FA: Chris Warner, 2006

Overture to the Sun ** 260m 22, 21, 23, 23, 24, 24, 27

(need a good description)

First two pitches as for Siblings of the Sun. From the second belay go directly up to join a hand crack, rather than trending right and up from this belay, which is Siblings. From here continue up the soaring line of bolts with increasing difficulty.

  1. 25m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.

  2. 40m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 2.

  3. -m (23)

  4. -m (23)

  5. -m (24)

  6. -m (25) Apparently a 25 mega pitch

  7. -m (27) rebolted recently?

FA: John Fantini late 90s, 2000

An alternative way to get to the top of the spike and the first belay of Siblings of the Sun. Great climbing and eases off a lot after the first bolt. The route takes the sharp bolted arête 5m left of the corner crack of Siblings pitch 1, starting on its right side then switching to the left.

FFA: Steve Monks early 90s, 1990

An all time classic, the beginning of the new wave at Bungonia. The corner crack start is back down and behind the massive jumble of collapsed boulders that peeled away from the bottom of the 'South Wall' when dinosaurs ruled the Earth. 12 or 14 quickdraws, including some extenders. Mostly bolts, but take a single set of cams (#0.4-3 camalot) - doubles of 0.75, 1 and 2 for extra comfort - and wires. A second blue camalot (or a big hex) makes the first pitch more comfotable, but you won't need it higher up.

  1. 35m (22) The corner, 3 bolts and friends. Belay chain on top of the pedestal.

  2. 40m (21) Clip a bolt and move directly up from the belay. Past a few more bolts before traversing a long way right to a DBB on a small ledge.

  3. 45m (23) Move 2m right, step up and clip a bolt, move up to another, and pull a tricky slab move. Follow the bolts plus some wires up to the belay seat.

  4. 35m (22) Move a metre right and clip a bolt in the bulge. Up to a tree/ledge, then up and left to a groove (friends). Traverse 5m left at the top to a DBB and a mostly hanging belay; this is a terrible belay stance considering that there is a big cave/ledge/orifice 5m R which is actually on the line of the route. Hopefully these old belay bolts will be replaced soon and moved 5m R into the comfy cave at the same time.

  5. 30m (21) Move 5m back right and bridge up the invaginated orifice (med cams). Step out (wires) and move up to a bolt. Keep heading up and a tad left. Take care on the unprotectable loosish orange rock for the easy last 10m up to the DBB at the base of the beautiful orange headwall.

  6. 35m (24) The business. Step left, clip a bolt and cruise up the heart of the amazing orange headwall. A host of wires and friends supplemented by 5 bolts in all. Mega classic and pumpy. DBB on ledge.

  7. 15m (26) 5 bolts to DBB. Madonna. Unfortunately this pitch has several chipped holds.

  8. 20m (18) Leftwards sloping ramp past 4-5 bolts, thread & small-med cams, to chains just back from the lip. Walk out.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull & Craig Kentwell, 1989

(24/25) From the 1st belay at the top of the spike. Instead of heading up and right across the slabs, head straight right following the bolts through the overhang. Continue right on natural gear to the belay.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2000

An easier alternative to the 3rd pitch of Siblings of the Sun.

Start: From the start of the 3rd pitch of Siblings scramble right 20m to belay off the last tree.

  1. 25m (19) Wall climbing and jug hauling past 6 bolts to a chain.

  2. 20m (17) Up the corner past 5 bolts and some wires to the ledge.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull & Tony Barten, 1989

Takes a line between 'Siblings Of The Sun' and 'Albino'. Start as for Siblings. All bolts, no gear or brackets required. Follow the Penumbra Variant from the top of Pitch 2 of Siblings. 'Medusa' starts from the tree belay between the two climbing pitches of the Penumbra Variant.

  1. 15m (18) Trend up and right from the tree belay, delicately up the slab to the base of the short wall. Up the wall exiting slightly left to belay on the ledge (down and right from the Green Ledge).

  2. 20m (24) Pull onto a ramp and follow it up and right. Follow bolts up the wall to a long move left to a good hold. Up again until the climbing eases at the base of a flake. Belay at the top of the flake.

  3. 50m (25) Up the wall. Details to be advised.

  4. 30m (24) From the belay head up gorgeous steep orange stone until a move right brings you onto a ramp. Care required, a lot of loose small stuff. Up the ramp for a few moves, then follow bolts right onto the wall and up shaley stuff until another big move right gives good holds. Belay on the edge of the abyss.

  5. 10m (10) Scramble past a couple of bolts to the top.

FA: Robyn Cleland & Vera Wong, 2000

A great climb. Plenty of traversing at the start means action for everyone. Chain belays at the end of each pitch.

Shares the first two pitches of Siblings of the Sun. Double ropes a must due to zig-zagging long pitches, plus a decent rack with doubles of cams in the hand/fist sizes. Second should be capable of onsighting 22, due to several sections of downclimbing!

Start: From the start of the 3rd pitch of Siblings scramble right for 20m to the last tree (same start as for the Penumbra Variant).

  1. 35m (22) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1 up the steep layback corner.

  2. 40m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 2. Straight up slab for 20m, then follow brown hangers directly right and down to belay on left edge of small ledge. Bolts only on this pitch.

  3. 30m (22) Ignore the plethora of bolts going up and traverse right along vegetated ledge, through thick bushes and out the other side. Ignore bolts going up again and traverse hard right along lip of roof (hidden bolt) then start rising traverse past fiddly trad and the occasional bolt to finish at hanging belay.

  4. 20m (22) Up from the chains through a bulge to a sloping ledge and belay. Move off belay feels solid 24.

  5. 30m (23) Delicate and sustained face climbing. All bolts plus a few small/medium cams in the first 10m.

  6. 50m (24) The mega pitch with a bit of everything! Up the technical and zigzagging slab then right along the giant detached flake. Up a corner trending left and up through a small roof past a few bolts to belay out right on ledge.

  7. 45m (22) Up the steep orange wall on bolts, then meander your way through grey rock and vegetation to the chains.

FA: Andrew Bull & Craig Kentwell, 1991

In there somewhere.

This obscure but apparently good route lies upstream of 'Albino' and is accessed by abseil from the top of the gorge. There is no pitch from the ground.

Start: The route starts from a cave/recess above the big overhangings at the bottom of the gorge. The top of the rappel is 2 bolts near a tree. 3 long rappels reaches the cave. The raps trend rightwards.

  1. 45m (22) From the cave head up over little weaknesses (sustained). This good pitch leads you to the third rap anchor.

  2. 10m (15) A short pitch on crappy rock.

  3. 50m (21) Head up through good steep rock above, finishing at the second rap anchor.

  4. 45m (18) A good pitch. Move diagonally right to gain a scoop that heads to the top on fine grey rock.

FA: John Fantini, Richard Watts & Keith Bell, 1987

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