South Wall - Main Rock climbing44 routes in cliff
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Gets the sun all day up high, hence good for winter climbing. However the Siblings headwall gets shade from about 4pm in the warmer months, allowing a few hours for shady evening climbing if you time your approach accordingly.©
Access issues inherited from Bungonia Gorge
The park is occasionally closed for feral animal control. Check here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/alert/state-alerts
Park at William Mitchell carpark. Most people walk down, to do this follow the Red Track into the slot canyon (25-30 minutes). Turn right when you reach the creek bed. Walk downstream for a few minutes; the south wall is on your right.
It is also possible to abseil in. Get to the top of Siblings by walking down the Red Track for 5minutes until the first 10m high outcrop appears about 100m to your left, where you will find a well trodden path which breaks off to the right and then traverses across the hillside for about 300m. Once you reach the front of a broad ridge, the top of Siblings is about 100m down the ridge. The rap chains are a few metres from the clifftop, but you still need to approach with caution as the scree is a bit loose. Bring a rope protector for the top edge; and its probably best to fix a rope on the top abseil at least. You can get to the riverbed in 4 abseils (approx 30m, 55m, 55m, 55m). It might even be possible in three long abseils, given that from the clifftop to fifth belay is 60-65m (keep up a swing), fifth belay to third belay is 60-65m, and third belay to ground/bouldertops is about 60-70m(??). The three abseil approach has NOT been tested, but there are plenty of intermediate bolted anchors if you needed to change tactics.©
Many routes top out. To get back to the car its a pretty easy (15-20 minute) walk uphill. Option 1 is to follow the ridge (above Siblings) all the way to the hilltop (~10 minutes), then turn left and follow the plateau rim left through the scrub for about 300m to reach Bungonia Lookdown. Option 2 is to go up the ridge above Siblings for about 100m then pick up a well-trodden trail which heads R (W) and traverses for about 300m into the gully to join the Red Track. Option 1 is quicker if you have a car at the Lookdown but Option 2 is just as quick to the Red Track carpark and is better graded (less steep bits).©
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