| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity |
| 1 | |
Slope'n Soap'n
This route is the furthest downstream and is sparkling with bolts.
25m (24) A wide bridge across to a bolt. Sustained climbing past 5 more bolts. Chain belay.
25m (21) A fun pitch with good pro. Up the crack then left to a bolt, traverse left and up a slippery wall to a ledge. Rap off tree.
FA: Andrew Bull, Brogan Bunt, 1990
| 24 | Trad 50m
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| 2 | |
 Pulsar
At least its easier.
FA: Phil Georgeff, Bill Begg, Matt Madin, 1985
| 18 | Trad 50m
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| 3 | |
Stardust
The next line right. Apparently the bolts don't go to the top.
FA: Scott Camps, 1985
| 20 | Trad 50m
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| 4 | |
Startrek
The grotty slab next right.
| 18 | Trad 50m
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| 5 | |
Antique
Up the slab past three bolts to ledge and tree.
| 20 | Trad 50m
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| 6 | |
In The Lap Of The Mountain Gods
Can be used as a variant start to 'Red Supergiant'.
40m (21) Up the thin crack and wall to overlap. Follow the line leftwards and up past a fixed peg to a ledge and tree. Now either take the crack above all the way or merge into the left crack. Finish easily up the arete to a good stance with bolts.
25m (17) Move up the right side of the arete and continue trending right to the 2nd belay on 'Red Supergiant'.
FA: Will Moon, Bruce Cameron, 1985
| 21 | Trad 65m
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| 7 | |
  Red Supergiant
An alpine mega classic. Long loose and natural. Finishes at the highest point on the cliff, the Cooee Lookdown. Take plenty of long slings and big friends.
Start: A chipped square marks the start.
45m (20) Delicate moves up the slab to a series of ledges. Move leftwards into the corner and up it. A steep pull onto the ledge leads to the anchors.
45m (20) Up 2m, then follow holds leading right. Continue right to a corner in the overlap (wires). Over this (crux) to easier ground and tree. Trend leftwards, through overlap at 6m, then onto belay 8m above.
50m (16) Left to a corner, up this and through the overlap. Up the ramp to a tree.
50m (12) Scrub bash up the ramp to a tree.
45m (13) Deciding when to move right is tricky. Up for 10m. Move right on ledges, over and across some loose big blocks, moving horizontally right. Belay at the top of a block at the foot of the orange rock with some corners above.
30m (18) Much steeper, but well protected. Step right and up the corner. Over some choss, left a touch then up the next corner to belay.
50m (20) This pitch wanders, is fairly run out, and has a hard pockety start. Beware rope drag. Up over the bulge and trend right. Weave rightwards to avoid the very steep stuff, then step up and trend horizontally left to the splitter crack. Follow this corner up, then step right onto the ramp and set up belay in the cave.
50m (17 M1) (17A1) Scramble rightwards past a large stalactite to the end of the ramp. Drop down and right to a ledge at the base of the corner with the bolt in it. Aid past the bolt to a high #4 friend. Pull onto easy ground and up this to a big overhang with large pockets. Move delicately up and rightwards onto the wall. Go up and over right to a #4 tube chock in a neat pocket. Now up the corner to the old lookout.
FA: John Fantini, Dave Magregor, 1985
| 20 M1 | Aid 370m
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| 8 | |
Rob LeBreton and Tim Booth's project
Takes a line through the big orange overhang left of its apex.
-m (-) (25/26)
-m (-) (23)
-m (-) (20)
-m (-) (28?) The pitch through the huge orange overhang.
| | Trad
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| 9 | |
Strider
From the ledge up through the rooflet and the wall above.
FA: Steve Schnell, 1989
| 16 | Trad 35m
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| 10 | |
 Nitro Express
Awesome, can be combined with Screaming Tribesmen to make a sustained route to the top.
25m (19) Up through the overlap past 2 bolts to the tree and belay.
30m (22) Through the overhang on bolts and then on wires and bolts.
15m (23) Up the corner, then move left to the tree belay.
45m (23) Desperate moves through the bulge then up the slab. Either go left to the belay on 'Iron Curtain', or continue up through the stalactites to the belay at the base of the orange headwall.
FA: John Fantini, Keith Bell, 1991
| 23 | Trad 120m
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| 11 | |
Arachnophobia
As slippery as a butcher's dick.
Start: Starts 5m right of 'Nitro Express'.
FA: Mike Law-Smith, Cath Eadie, Glenn Robbins, 1989
| 19 | Trad 35m
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| 12 | |
Asteroids
May or may not be fully bolted yet - see chockstone post: http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?ForumID=15&Action=Display&MessageID=17356
FA: Duncan, 2011
| 25 | Sport 220m
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| 13 | |
 Iron Curtain
A great route to start with in the gorge, but it only climbs halfway up the wall. Well protected and not too hard. If you are falling up it with your eyes closed try continuing up 'Screaming Tribesman' to top out.
35m (21) The start is on the right hand end of a left-leaning ramp. Up a few moves, step right, clip a bolt, up to another bolt and a thin move to a pocket on the left. Now cruise through to a bolt belay behind the tree.
30m (22) Move left for about 5m until reaching some bolts heading through an overlap. Straight up past the abseil chains and through another overlap to a corner. Some tricky moves to exit the corner on the left and up to a double bolt/friend belay.
30m (22) Move left from the belay, slot in a wire then power on up the bulging wall and slab above. At about 25m clip a bolt and move right to a comfortable ledge belay. Can be combined with Pitch 4 with 50m ropes as a full 51m mega pitch.
30m (18) A good pitch. Move back out left and up the slab to the stalactite and to some threads. Up these, then follow the bolts up and slightly left over some loose ground. Belay at the base of the headwall.
FA: Pitch 1: Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull, Brogan Bunt: Pitches 2 to 4: Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell 1990, 1990
| 22 | Trad 130m
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| 14 | |
Bob Yabbie
FA: David (Bobby) Gilbert, Greg Coterill, 1988
| 22 | Unknown
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| 15 | |
Screaming Tribesman
A rarely repeated long involved adventure with very tricky route finding, some choss rock and fiddly gear. Bring a full rack, doubles of everything and lots of tiny cams. Double ropes a must, even if you are just using them for retreat! It's much more consumer friendly, and a classic climb, if you do 'Iron Curtain' then pitches 6-9 of this route.
35m (22) This first pitch was originally called 'Bob Yabbie' by visiting first ascentionists David Gilbert and Greg Coterill. Up the dirty badly protected slab to a bulge with a bolt. Difficult through the bulge, then more easily up the slabby cracks and pods (usually full of dirt) to a vegetated ledge with a bolt belay.
25m (21) Directly up past the overlap to a hanging good double friend belay at 25m.
20m (20) A good pitch. Short and interesting weaving up to a ledge and tree on the left.
15m (17) Out right side of ledge and up flake for a few metres until you can traverse hard left to right edge of ledge. Belay off two fixed pins which need to be unearthed. Originally graded 12!
40m (18) Was originally described as "interesting and varied" which translates into choss and danger. Climb directly up and leftwards on disintegrating slab to the tufa hole above. Sink the only good bit of gear on the pitch (3.5 friend) and continue up leftwards past dodgy chicken heads to traverse hard left over scary death flakes to DBB at the base of the orange headwall. Ignore bit of tat up high on traverse.
22m (23) Kickarse. A brilliant pitch. Head up the right-hand weakness on good wires and cams, going for the 'thank god' squeeze chimney rest. Wriggle forth. DBB (fixed hangers) on the left edge of the ledge.
35m (25) (Or 22M1) This pitch traverses a long way right to the top of the pedestal, and then moves back left on the face above, finishing directly above the belay. Don't be fooled by the bolts leading directly up from the belay - these go nowhere at the time of writing. From the top of the pedestal gymnastic moves past bolts and small cams lead to pockets out left and more bolts. Take care with the final moves (wires) to the DBB.
40m (19) Wandering. Walk left 5m, then up the wall on pockets. Move right several metres, bridge across a corner and keep moving up and right up the ramp to a thread and bolt belay.
45m (15) Up following a corner system. Natural belay.
FA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff and Dave Magregor worked on it. John Fantini and Ed Garnett made the first complete ascent, early's., 1990
| 22 A1 | Aid 280m
, 1
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| 16 | |
The Misfits
A spectacular pitch tackling a very steep line through the Screaming Tribesmen orange cave. A variant on the best pitch of 'Screaming Tribesman' but even more awesome and harder.
Start: Start at a bomber gear belay just down and right of the DBB atop the 5th pitch of Iron Curtain/ Nitro Express/ 'Screaming Tribesman'.
FA: Ken Luck, Andrew McAuley, 1999
| 23 M1 | Trad 30m
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| 17 | |
 Red Heat
Start: Starts just left of 'Evolution'.
45m (20) Start up an obvious weakness via a rising rightwards sloping break. After 3m, traverse leftwards and up to a horizontal weakness to its left end. Continue up on small face holds past a bolt to a small niche and trend horizontally right for 4m and up to the obvious big tree.
45m (21) Continue up the steep wall to the left of the tree on a series of interesting face moves for 10m to gain a ramp heading up and right. Scramble up the ramp until where it steepens (wires) move right, then back left (1 friend) and up to belay at the tree (it's wobbly and rotten - find the cam slot behind). This is the same belay as for top of 'Evolution' pitch 3.
25m (21) Move 4m right and slightly down until under steep corner. More strenuously up corner/groove to a small orange cave (cam belay).
50m (20) Head out leftwards from cave and to the top of the block (top of 'Evolution' pitch 4). Trend rightwards (leave the bolts of 'Evolution' to your left) and up diagonally past sinker friend pockets to the big orange cave.
12m (12) From the cave traverse right and up to another small cave at the foot of the steep groove. (Jump Master goes straight up from the right side of the cave).
25m (21) Up the overhanging groove on fantastic holds to chimney. Continue up to small ledge on left side. Move left 2m and up to the hanging belay on bomber nuts (big hexes useful)
40m (22) (22M1) The 'master blaster' pitch. Requires 8 long slings to minimise rope drag on the upper headwall. Up the steep groove on unique holds to its end (2 aid points used). Cut loose from the top the fixed aid stopper and step left with an adrenaline pumped brain to gain a small niche and sinker protection. Continue straight up and then diagonally right past a 4 friend pocket and a big thread.
FA: John Fantini, Keith Bell, 1990
| 22 A1 | Aid 240m
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| 18 | |
Old and Grey
(18M1). See topo. Finds its way up to the top by wandering through serious ground. A great effort for the time.
FA: Ian Brown, Don Fletcher, 1977
| 18 A1 | Aid 300m
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| 19 | |
Storm Front
Storm Front basically runs between Red Heat and 'Old and Grey'. The route is called 'Storm Front' because if you stand in the bottom of the gorge in the pissing rain getting wet the line shows up very clearly. The climb starts right of Red Heat. On pitch 1 there is a rock arch/flake that you actually climb through, this is a very obvious feature. The last two pitches are not recommended.
45m (20) Up the flake, step left and up to a ledge, traverse 3m left, up, then right through the obvious arch on the right. Now up to the belay.
40m (20) Slightly left to a tree bowl and climb the steep wall at the rear. Go to where the crack splits, left is Red Heat, right is 'Storm Front'. Up the right crack and over a block to belay on nuts.
40m (20) Follow up the crack.
40m (17) Up the easy crack above to big cave.
35m (20) Go left from the left side of the cave on a rising traverse left to a ledge.
40m (21) From the right edge of the ledge, go straight up to a bolt and nuts, then up and right (crux) to a tree belay.
30m (10) Continue easily to the top.
FA: Mark Wilson, Richard Watts late '80s, 2000
| 20 | Trad 270m
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| 20 | |
Aurora
As per 'Evolution' to tree belay end pitch 3.
Start: Start in the rainforest 30m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, -its not a taste of what's to come.
15m (15) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 1.
35m (22) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 2.
40m (21) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 3.
25m (18) Easily up slab past 'Evolution' and 'Scorpion' to small tree, past this to ring bolt then continue under overhang to double ring belay.
40m (24) 'Steep' but easy through overhang to thread, step right then up wall with big holds, rings and friends (3.5 essential in bombproof slot). Rest at small stance as the wall becomes slightly off vertical, crux moves past last 3 or 4 rings. DRB belay at stance.
30m (24) Good pitch, difficult to onsite. Awkward slab to stance below a short overhanging wall, pumpy and technical up the wall then hard moves to gain small ledge, bouldery moves to step left and get established on another short steep wall which leads to ledge. This is the big ledge where you belay for the last pitch of 'Old and Grey', 'Scorpion' & 'Storm Front'. DRB belay
30m (25) Great pitch, mostly rings, friends in final crack. 'Steep' slab leads to short steep wall with hard moves, then a short easy slab. Traverse on to steep wall above the overhang and very delicate climbing for several metres to a pocket, (crux). Fine climbing up wall to base of crack, crack and flake for several metres to small ledge. DRB belay.
20m (19) Easy but nice wall to top. Thread and ring bolt belay.
FA: M Wilson & J Clark, 2001
| 25 | Trad 240m
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| 21 | |
  Evolution
Gobsmackingly good. Take a light rack of friends (#0.5 - #3) and wires and about 16 quickdraws (with plenty of long draws).
Start: Start in the rainforest 15m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. From the riverbed scramble up the broken blocks to the base of the wall proper. Belay from here. The climbing starts underneath the bush canopy, under a water-run/chimney/hole thing. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, its not a taste of what's to come.
15m (15) All trad. Move up a few moves under the hole thing, then step left onto a leftward sloping ramp, and trend up L for 5m. Pull over the bulge then traverse 5m back right to DBB on small grassy ledge.
30m (22) FH, over bulge onto small ledge (trad) and move R. Trickily up past 2 FHs to a fixed thread at 12m (new as of 2012). Up the slab past #2 cam and 2FHs, then trend easily L to DFH on comfy grassy ledge.
35m (21) Step R then up face and crack (2 FHs, trad, FH) to join a rightwards sloping ramp. Follow this 15m up and right until it steepens. Place a few bomber wires, then tricky moves to the right, then a bit necky up and back left to a vertical slot and tricky mantle to gain a small ledge. The former "belay tree" is now awful, rotten and wobbly, leaving just one small slot for cams (above your head behind the tree). Consider climbing 5m up the next pitch to get more gear in, to extend back down to your belay. (A bolted belay is needed here)
25m (23) The first of 3 amazing pitches. Step right (blue alien), then up the corner to great cams. Pull up right, to the line of 11 bolts and incredible moves up the steep face using a zillion pockets. Past the last bolt a tricky span R gains a short corner and DBB on top of the spike.
30m (22) Follow the bolts up the faint open corner and straight over a high bulge, to belay in the sublime luxury of the huge orange cave (lunch time!). 9 FHs, then a #2 cam, then a chain belay. A ripsnorter.
25m (24) Follow the bolts trending left out of the left side of the cave (the more rusty bolts heading up then R through steep ground are Pump Lust). Amazing sustained pumpy climbing on fantastic orange rock, mainly bolts with mid size wires and a 2-3 cam near the top. DBB.
45m (23 M1) Up and left past some bolts, pulling on the second to reach a jug. After the aid move, don't get suckered straight up to the tempting bolt 8-10m above (that's the 27 RHV). Instead trend up and left past a small tree on the arête. Go L around the arete to join a bridging corner (wires) for 10m, then a hideous dirt/scree scramble for about 15-20m. Keep going until you find a gumtree to belay off, the casuarinas (she-oaks) are totally unreliable.
FA: Andrew McAuley, Vicki O'Malley, Greg James., 1997
| 24 | Trad 270m
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| 22 | |
Evolution Pitch 7 RHV
An alternative final pitch to 'Evolution'.
Start: Start as per 'Evolution' pitch 7.
FA: Lee Cossey, 2000
| 27 | Mixed 40m
, 6
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| 23 | |
Pump Lust
Do a move or two as for 'Evolution' pitch 6, then trend R following the line of bolts up the left hand side of the big cave, eventually joining 'Jump Master' at the top of its first pitch.
Start: Start as for 'Evolution' pitch 6.
FA: George Feig late 90s, 2000
| 29 | Trad 25m
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| 24 | |
Jump Master
Start: Starts from the right side of the big cave.
20m (23) Up the right wall of the cave past two bolts to a niche and traverse left up through a gap to finish at a BB.
30m (26) Follow the waterline up through the steep orange rock above to a niche. Hard moves to gain the grey rock above.
FA: John Fantini early 90s, 1990
| 23 A1 | Aid 50m
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| 25 | |
Scorpion
An old time epic.
35m (22) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.
-m (19) Start as for 2nd pitch of 'Reason For Man' but instead of trending slightly right go straight up. Then trend left for the rest of this pitch.
-m (17) Continue to trend left on natural gear to share the same tree belay with 'Evolution' and Red Heat.
50m (21) Up easily for a few metres to connect into a weakness at the start of the orange rock. Follow this junction up and left to find a groove and flake. Up these which provide some interesting moments, to gain the big block visible from the bottom of the gorge.
45m (21) Head right for 3m and weave your way through blankness. A friend break and then trend up and left to a break and belay.
45m (19) Move horizontally right to a nose and eventually get some runners in after the hard stuff is over. Continue upwards over a steep bulge past an old carrot bolt on good rock to finish at a sit down belay.
40m (10) Scramble to top.
FA: John Fantini, Dave Sargent, 1985
| 22 | Trad 220m
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| 26 | |
 Reason For Man
35m (22) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.
45m (19) From slightly left of the chain belay climb the wall straight up to a ledge and tree belay.
30m (17) Up to the big ledge.
30m (17) More pleasant climbing to the cave belay.
45m (20) A serious pitch. Move right from the cave to a bolt. Now directly upwards to a ramp and some good wires. Continue up and rightwards in a groove and on some mediocre rock. Finish on a ledge.
45m (14) Step right and move around right above the overhang to another big ledge at 45m.
50m (22) Walk right along the ramp to a sling around a stalactite before launching onto steep ground above. Up ribs and cracks to a hard crank at 35m. More easily to top.
FA: John Fantini, Tony Barten, 1985
| 22 | Trad 280m
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| 27 | |
Flaming Galah
Excellent continuous climbing that pushes a direct line up the centre of the South Wall.
The first 4 pitches of this route makes for a straight forward sports climb that is easy to get off in 2 raps if climbing with double ropes. Sport bolted over 6 long days.
(24) 25m Start as for ‘Andrews Arête’, hard start moves. (21 if you pull the first two bolts)
(21) 40m Continue up following the Siblings bolts until a small corner with a sapling and Lucky bolt hangers. Follow bolts up and right to a bolt belay in pod.
(19) 30m Straight up the blunt arête to the green ledge, traverse right 5m to roomy belay with bolts.
(23) 25m Great face climbing to a hanging belay.
(26) 50m Up right on big holds to a thin punchy crux then continue up joining ‘Overture to the Sun’ briefly and a long runout on easy climbing to belay at the base of the orange wall to the right of the Siblings belay. Chain belay.
(31) 30m Orange headwall. Climb the blunt arête with great holds and follow bolts to a semi hanging belay.
(27) 30m Exposure at its best, continue up and pull through committing lip (crux) then up on good hold to finish at chain. Walk back to the car park up the hill.
FFA: Jan (Czech),
FA: Chris Warner, 2006
| 31 | Sport 230m
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| 28 | |
 Overture to the Sun
Overture to the Sun ** 260m 22, 21, 23, 23, 24, 24, 27
(need a good description)
First two pitches as for Siblings of the Sun. From the second belay go directly up to join a hand crack, rather than trending right and up from this belay, which is Siblings. From here continue up the soaring line of bolts with increasing difficulty.
35m (27) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.
40m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 2.
-m (23)
-m (23)
-m (24)
-m (24)
-m (27)
FA: John Fantini late 90s, 2000
| 27 | Trad 75m
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| 29 | |
Andrew's Arête
An alternative way to get to the top of the spike and the first belay of Siblings of the Sun. Looks like great climbing. The route takes the sharp arête with one bolt 5m left of the corner crack of Siblings pitch 1.
FFA: Steve Monks early 90s, 1990
| 25 | Trad 35m
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| 30 | |
  Siblings Of The Sun
An all time classic, the beginning of the new wave at Bungonia. The corner crack start is back down and behind the massive jumble of collapsed boulders that peeled away from the bottom of the 'South Wall' when dinosaurs ruled the Earth. 12 or 14 quickdraws, including some extenders. Mostly bolts, but take a single set of cams (#0.4-3 camalot) and wires.
35m (22) The corner, 3 bolts and friends. Belay chain on top of the pedestal.
40m (21) Clip a bolt and move directly up from the belay. Past a few more bolts before traversing a long way right to a DBB on a small ledge.
45m (23) Move 2m right, step up and clip a bolt, move up to another, and pull a tricky slab move. Follow the bolts plus some wires up to the belay seat.
40m (22) Move a metre right and clip a bolt in the bulge. Up to a tree/ledge, then up and left to a groove (friends). Traverse left at the top to a DBB.
30m (21) Step right and bridge up into the invaginated orifice (2 friend). Step out (wires) and move up to a bolt. Keep heading up and a tad left. Take care on loosish orange rock below the DBB.
35m (24) The business. Step left, clip a bolt and cruise. A host of wires and friends supplemented by 5 bolts in all. Mega classic and pumpy. DBB on ledge.
15m (26) Up. DBB. Madonna. Unfortunately this pitch has several chipped holds.
20m (18) Leftwards sloping ramp past bolts and thread to DBB just back from the lip.
FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell, 1989
| 26 | Mixed 240m
, 61
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| 31 | |
Siblings Variant pitch 2
(24/25) From the 1st belay at the top of the spike. Instead of heading up and right across the slabs, head straight right following the bolts through the overhang. Continue right on natural gear to the belay.
FA: Lee Cossey, 2000
| 24 | Trad 40m
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| 32 | |
 The Penumbra Variant
An easier alternative to the 3rd pitch of Siblings of the Sun.
Start: From the start of the 3rd pitch of Siblings scramble right 20m to belay off the last tree.
25m (19) Wall climbing and jug hauling past 6 bolts to a chain.
20m (17) Up the corner past 5 bolts and some wires to the ledge.
FA: Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull, Tony Barten, 1989
| 19 | Trad 45m
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| 33 | |
Medusa (project)
Not a pleasant route. Takes a line between 'Siblings Of The Sun' and 'Albino'. Start as for Siblings. All bolts, no gear or brackets required. Follow the Penumbra Variant from the top of Pitch 2 of Siblings. 'Medusa' starts from the tree belay between the two climbing pitches of the Penumbra Variant.
15m (18) Trend up and right from the tree belay, delicately up the slab to the base of the short wall. Up the wall exiting slightly left to belay on the ledge (down and right from the Green Ledge).
20m (24) Pull onto a ramp and follow it up and right. Follow bolts up the wall to a long move left to a good hold. Up again until the climbing eases at the base of a flake. Belay at the top of the flake.
50m (25) Up the wall. Details to be advised.
30m (24) From the belay head up gorgeous steep orange stone until a move right brings you onto a ramp. Care required, a lot of loose small stuff. Up the ramp for a few moves, then follow bolts right onto the wall and up shaley stuff until another big move right gives good holds. Belay on the edge of the abyss.
10m (10) Scramble past a couple of bolts to the top.
FA: Robyn Cleland, Vera Wong, 2000
| 25 | Trad 130m
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| 34 | |
  Albino
A great climb. Plenty of traversing at the start means action for everyone. Chain belays at the end of each pitch.
Shares the first two pitches of Siblings of the Sun. Double ropes a must due to zig-zagging long pitches, plus a decent rack with doubles of cams in the hand/fist sizes. Second should be capable of onsighting 22, due to several sections of downclimbing!
Start: From the start of the 3rd pitch of Siblings scramble right for 20m to the last tree (same start as for the Penumbra Variant).
35m (22) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1 up the steep layback corner.
40m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 2. Straight up slab for 20m, then follow brown hangers directly right and down to belay on left edge of small ledge. Bolts only on this pitch.
30m (22) Ignore the plethora of bolts going up and traverse right along vegetated ledge, through thick bushes and out the other side. Ignore bolts going up again and traverse hard right along lip of roof (hidden bolt) then start rising traverse past fiddly trad and the occasional bolt to finish at hanging belay.
20m (22) Up from the chains through a bulge to a sloping ledge and belay. Move off belay feels solid 24+.
30m (24) Delicate and sustained face climbing. All bolts apart from a few small/medium cams in the first 10m.
50m (22) The mega pitch with a bit of everything! Up the technical and zigzagging slab then right along the giant detached flake. Up a corner trending left and up through a small roof past a few bolts to belay out right on ledge.
45m (22) Up the steep orange wall on bolts, then meander your way through grey rock and vegetation to the chains.
FA: Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell, 1991
| 24 | Trad 240m
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| 35 | |
Gasoline Alley ??
In here somewhere, line of bolts aiding through big overhang.
| | Trad
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| 36 | |
 Solar Flare
This obscure but apparently good route lies upstream of 'Albino' and is accessed by abseil from the top of the gorge. There is no pitch from the ground.
Start: The route starts from a cave/recess above the big overhangings at the bottom of the gorge. The top of the rappel is 2 bolts near a tree. 3 long rappels reaches the cave. The raps trend rightwards.
45m (22) From the cave head up over little weaknesses (sustained). This good pitch leads you to the third rap anchor.
10m (15) A short pitch on crappy rock.
50m (21) Head up through good steep rock above, finishing at the second rap anchor.
45m (18) A good pitch. Move diagonally right to gain a scoop that heads to the top on fine grey rock.
FA: John Fantini, Richard Watts, Keith Bell, 1987
| 22 | Trad 150m
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