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Probably the best single pitch that starts from ground level in the Gorge. It's THE way to do 'Strangeness and Charm' direct, a humdingin' pitch completely in keeping with the rest of Strangeness. There is a grade 22 and 24 variant.

Start directly under the 2nd belay on Strangeness, where an overlap at 12m decreases in size towards the right. Up the crack to large scoop (wires). A few more moves give way to a bolt. Get the hollow sounding flake above and trend leftwards past a bolt and straight up towards two more bolts which are 3m apart. Either whimp out left to connect with " Strangeness and Charm Direct DS" (grade 22) or directly upwards past a 4th bolt (grade 24).

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Fantini & Mike Law-Smith, 1988

  • First Ascent: Glenn Tempest (grade 24 direct), 1989


Located in North Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 150.016861,-34.795278

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Route Grade Citations

*** Neil Monteith
22 Principal
22 ** ** ACA Route Register
24 ** Strangeness and Charm

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 78%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good pockets roof

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