Phototopos:

Description:© (Ashy)

Really good climbing, with atmosphere.

Start: Start below a short wide crack at the left edge of a treed ledge. If you are having problems finding the start and are unfamiliar with the gorge, walk across to the other side of the creek and suss out the route from there, the footpads of the traverse on pitch 2 are fairly obvious.

  1. 45m (18) Up the crack, step right (wires) and up to a ledge and tree. Move left 3m and climb up to a scoop (wires). From the scoop continue left and up to the small belay ledge (two FHs). This pitch is quite runout.

  2. 20m (18) Traverse left with trepidation past two spaced FHs and a medium cam slot to assortment of vintage chains (hanging belay).

  3. 35m (22) Up, follow the groove past three FHs, before crossing to the left side of the crack then up to belay stance (2 old FHs and old slings in thread). A stout and sustained pitch requiring a full rack inc slings for thread.

  4. 20m (22) Left up flakes and up to a FH, move rightwards over the bulge (crux) past BR and FH and then trend left up to the awesome bathtub cave belay (rap chain).

  5. 30m (19) Up to a poor bolt before trending left to the bent blackboy. "No-one bothers with this pitch" - actually, quite a lot of people do it, it's not bad. Be aware that the abseil back to the 4th belay is a bit diagonal. The lone bolt on this pitch is small, rusty and threaded. It would not hold a large fall.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: G Bradbury, G Moore, 1984

Location:  

Located in North Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 150.016861,-34.795278

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 OZ Rock
22 Phil Staples
22 Principal
22 *** *** ACA Route Register
22 *** Strangeness and Charm

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

sustained hard great classic awesome runout easy bad

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