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Description:© (secretary)

Gobsmackingly good. Take a light rack of friends (#0.5 - #3) and wires and about 16 quickdraws (with plenty of long draws).

Start: Start in the rainforest 15m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. From the riverbed scramble up the broken blocks to the base of the wall proper. Belay from here. The climbing starts underneath the bush canopy, under a water-run/chimney/hole thing. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, it's not a taste of what's to come.

  1. 15m (15) All trad. Move up a few moves under the hole thing, then step left onto a leftward sloping ramp, and trend up L for 5m. Pull over the bulge then traverse 5m back right to DBB on small grassy ledge.

  2. 30m (22) FH, over bulge onto small ledge (trad) and move R. Trickily up past 2 FHs to a fixed thread at 12m (new as of 2012). Up the slab past #2 cam and 2FHs, then trend easily L to DFH on comfy grassy ledge.

  3. 35m (21) Step R then up face and crack (2 FHs, trad, FH) to join a rightwards sloping ramp. Follow this 15m up and right until it steepens. Place a few bomber wires, then tricky moves to the right, then a bit necky up and back left to a hidden, downwards cam slot and tricky mantle to gain a small ledge. The former "belay tree" is now awful, rotten and wobbly. Bolt belay added late 2014.

  4. 25m (23) The first of 3 amazing pitches. Step right then up the corner to great cams. Pull up right, to the line of 11 bolts and incredible moves up the steep face using a zillion pockets. Past the last bolt a tricky span R gains a short corner and DBB on top of the spike.

  5. 30m (22) Follow the bolts up the faint open corner and straight over a high bulge, to belay in the sublime luxury of the huge orange cave (lunch time!). 9 FHs, then a #2 cam, then a chain belay. A ripsnorter.

  6. 25m (24) Follow the bolts trending left out of the left side of the cave (the more rusty bolts heading up then R through steep ground are Pump Lust). Amazing sustained pumpy climbing on fantastic orange rock, mainly bolts with mid size wires and a 2-3 cam near the top. DBB.

  7. 45m (23 M1/25) Up and left past some bolts, pulling on a couple to reach a jug. After the aid moves, don't get suckered straight up to the tempting bolts, which are for various good but harder alternate finishes. Instead trend up and left past a small tree on the arête. Go L around the arete to join a bridging corner (wires) for 10m, then a hideous dirt/scree scramble for about 15-20m. Keep going until you find a gumtree to belay off (55m to the tree), the casuarinas (she-oaks) are totally unreliable.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Andrew McAuley, Vicki O'Malley & Greg James., 1997


Located in South Wall - Main approx:
Lat/Long: -34.796539,150.017406

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Community registered grade
24 M1 *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 90%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped overhung peeled off crux sustained hard stoked super beautiful fun rad perfect fantastic good brilliant amazing classy great classic awesome scary tricky exposed steep feet rest epic crazy roof hands technical mantle slabby

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