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Description:© (secretary)

Gobsmackingly good. Take a light rack of friends (#0.5 - #3) and wires and about 16 quickdraws (with plenty of long draws).

Start: Start in the rainforest 15m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. From the riverbed scramble up the broken blocks to the base of the wall proper. Belay from here. The climbing starts underneath the bush canopy, under a water-run/chimney/hole thing. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, its not a taste of what's to come.

  1. 15m (15) All trad. Move up a few moves under the hole thing, then step left onto a leftward sloping ramp, and trend up L for 5m. Pull over the bulge then traverse 5m back right to DBB on small grassy ledge.

  2. 30m (22) FH, over bulge onto small ledge (trad) and move R. Trickily up past 2 FHs to a fixed thread at 12m (new as of 2012). Up the slab past #2 cam and 2FHs, then trend easily L to DFH on comfy grassy ledge.

  3. 35m (21) Step R then up face and crack (2 FHs, trad, FH) to join a rightwards sloping ramp. Follow this 15m up and right until it steepens. Place a few bomber wires, then tricky moves to the right, then a bit necky up and back left to a vertical slot and tricky mantle to gain a small ledge. The former "belay tree" is now awful, rotten and wobbly, leaving just one small slot for cams (above your head behind the tree). Consider climbing 5m up the next pitch to get more gear in, to extend back down to your belay. (A bolted belay is needed here)

  4. 25m (23) The first of 3 amazing pitches. Step right (blue alien), then up the corner to great cams. Pull up right, to the line of 11 bolts and incredible moves up the steep face using a zillion pockets. Past the last bolt a tricky span R gains a short corner and DBB on top of the spike.

  5. 30m (22) Follow the bolts up the faint open corner and straight over a high bulge, to belay in the sublime luxury of the huge orange cave (lunch time!). 9 FHs, then a #2 cam, then a chain belay. A ripsnorter.

  6. 25m (24) Follow the bolts trending left out of the left side of the cave (the more rusty bolts heading up then R through steep ground are Pump Lust). Amazing sustained pumpy climbing on fantastic orange rock, mainly bolts with mid size wires and a 2-3 cam near the top. DBB.

  7. 45m (23 M1) Up and left past some bolts, pulling on the second to reach a jug. After the aid move, don't get suckered straight up to the tempting bolt 8-10m above (that's the 27 RHV). Instead trend up and left past a small tree on the arête. Go L around the arete to join a bridging corner (wires) for 10m, then a hideous dirt/scree scramble for about 15-20m. Keep going until you find a gumtree to belay off, the casuarinas (she-oaks) are totally unreliable.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Andrew McAuley, Vicki O'Malley, Greg James., 1997

Location:  

Located in South Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 150.017406,-34.796539

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Principal
24 Vanessa Wills
24 M1 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped overhung peeled off hard super beautiful fun rad good brilliant great classic awesome scary tricky steep rest mantle crazy slabby

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