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Summary

Don't get too excited! This is a diminutive, cracked basalt wall in Burleigh Heads National Park. It has a couple of good hand cracks, chimneys, off-widths, and a few arêtes. Not bad for an afternoon of mini-climbing or off-width training. Also a good option for getting beginners ready for a weekend at Frog.

Description

There are DBBs to accommodate the climbs spanning from Anaconda to "Narrow is the Way". If topping out above the the DBBS, two finishes are possible: The L one (roof/chimney) is 21 and very funky, the R one (chimney/crack) is 14. All other climbs require topout.

Access issues

Note that as at January 2006, climbing has been officially "banned" by the area's ranger. They are permitted to issue spot fines of $225 each. You have been warned!

Approach

The car park can be accessed from Goodwin Terrace.

Routes

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Grade Route

10 metres left of Shere Kahn. The crack below the obvious roof problem. Balancy crux to start up the crack, then directly over roof. Natural belay, then an easy scramble out right. A good warm up.

FA: Matt Boulton & Ray Trace, 2004

I'm sure in Yosemite this would be grade 16. Starts R of corner at the offwidth crack. Climb the 4m offwidth (#5 camalot) to ledge, then walk off L. The headwall finish passing the very dodgy bolt (placed by an earlier party) is uncompleted. Using the fig tree is not allowed.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2002

2m R. Very wide crack (#5 camalot) to protruding roof. Step R under roof into enclave and DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes & Sam Cujes, 2002

Just R again. Face route up pillar on bolts next to good gear. Up past break to small sickle-crack (sling), then to ledge. Finish as for Anaconda. A great lead.

FA: Lee Cujes & Sam Cujes, 2002

1m R. Wide shaft with lovely handcrack running up the middle. A good beginner lead. Take Anaconda's R-hand finish.

FA: Sam Cujes & Craig Phillips, 2016

This is the pillar between the routes. Top rope only. No bolts please due to proximity to other routes.

FA: TR: Terry Svingen, 2003

2m R. Twin cracks/chimney. Quite a nice chimney. Bring big gear to adequately protect this.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2002

Start up the offwidth to the right of Hunter Gatherer. Bring big cams up to arm you for the mini-wrestling match that you're about to endure. Strenuous smooth off-widthing climbing the outside of Narrow is the Way.

FA: Alex Mougenot & Vaughan Christie

Start climbing chimney from he right then head to left where chimney narrows,top out below chains.

FFA: WSD Pedro, 2016

Start in the cave 1m R behind Fireflies pillar. Well protected climbing up a tight and fully enclosed chimney. At the top, exit L to DBB.

FA: TR: Matt Boulton, 2002

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2002

2m R is a detached leaning pillar with bolts. Use stick or bridge tree to clip first of three FH's, but start directly from ground. Blast directly up the pillar past two FH's to break (small SLCD). Clip the final FH, then crank up and R to top out.

The most obvious route here. 2m R of pillar and marked by some weird metal spikes sticking out down low. Attractive, sinuous crack up corner to small roof, then ramble out.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1993

Slightly contrived, but great fun up the arete between COTW and Amazon, always staying clear of the two cracks. A couple of thin, cruxy moves to jug. Continue up arete to ledge on a variety of interesting holds. Scramble up to top.

FA: TR: Terry Svingen, 2003

FFA: Taib Ezekiel, 2011

1m R. Another sinuous crack, similar to the last one. If you pike off right, subtract a few grades.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1993

The leaning, low-angle pillar, and wide shaft behind. The delicate crux is on the slabby pillar (no pro), so don't fall off!

FA: Lee Cujes & Craig Phillips, 2002

Enter the cave left of Me Jane. Climb up the chimney and under the offensive rock. Top out up You Tarzan.

FA: Matt Boulton & Joel Collins, 2003

3m R. A shaft with a big tree growing against the rock. Bridge the shaft and climb the tree, with a harder move at the top. Belay on ledge, but scramble out L (roped).

FA: Sam Cujes & Lee Cujes, 2002

1.5m R. Contrived, but a bit of fun. The pillar with a FH. The committing crux above the bolt must be climbed direct! Scramble down R.

1m R. The last decent corner crack on the cliff. Scramble down R.

FA: Craig Phillips & Sam Cujes, 2002

2m left of Cheetah. Easy twin crack/chimney all the way up. Good pro.Nice beginners lead.

FA: Terry Svingen, 2003

Walk 15m right of Tribal Dance over boulders to a large fallen-over pillar. Right in front, climb the sinuous left crack up corner to broken ground. Try and stay off the crack on the right side. Good fist jam. Bring a couple large cams.

FA: Terry Svingen, 2003

Activity

Check out what is happening in Burleigh Heads National Park (closed).