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Description

If you like your Mt Macedon climbing with a touch of the "mountaineering approach", this is the cliff for you.

Access issues inherited from Eastern Outcrops

Upper paths are steep, angled and slippery - use caution. Optus mobile phone reception is very poor

Approach

Move 20m right of Barringo Tower - there is a white gum tree in a steep gully. Option 1- Go up past this to the next white gum tree (cave to its right) near the top of the gully continue up and then around right to arrive at the top of the next gully. (some prefer to traverse right at the 2nd gum tree into the next gully) , Option 2 – Pass the 1st steep gully (with the white gum tree on your left) and go to the next rocky gully. Gumslinger starts on the right face at the very top of this gully.. Option 3 - From the summit access track, continue past the fenced lookout for about 75m, until just before the track ends and turns to a rocky scramble. Turn off to the right of the track and head NE for ~60m, tending right when you see the white gum tree (which grows from the base of the cliff, next to Gumslinger) to get to the access gully rather than the top of the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sling the gum tree to protect the start of the first three climbs here. Gumslinger is the face directly behind the white gum tree at the left end of the Space Jugging wall.

FA: Dayle Gilliatt & Anthony Bishop, 1997

The wall between Gumslinger and A Knight, (#1.5 SLCD in the horizontal). (Clipping the BR on A Knight?). Follow the crack past a wire placement.

FA: Dayle Gilliatt & Anthony Bishop, 1997

Start 2m down and right of A Rook, straight up to the little roof (BR?). Up to the horizontal (#1 SLCD), then left to finish as for A Rook.

FA: Dayle Gilliatt & Anthony Bishop, 1997

The diagonal left grassy chimney.

FA: John Griffiths, 1982

As for Pynx, the mossy middle chimney.

FA: John Griffiths, max keating & ken mckinley, 1982

Climb the face right of Styx past 2 BRs and placements up high.

FA: Russ Crow

The obvious crack/trench 5m right of Styx

FA: Max Keating & Ken McKinlay, 1982

Three meters left of Space Jugging. One carrot bolt.

FA: Russ Crow

Space Jugging starts at the overhanging, juggy crack left of the left arete. Up and slightly right to a carrot bolt, then follow the jugs up the arete past another carrot bolt.

FA: Andrew Stevens & MacKenzie Usher, 1988

A height dependent grade. Starts 3m right of Space Jugging at an easy angled ramp with a short hand crack. Up the ramp, then left , past the BR, then move up and right, up and back left, then over the overhang.

FA: Andrew Stevens & MacKenzie Usher, 1988

Up the ramp to Excuse Me While I Touch The Sky, up it for a couple of moves, traverse right and finish up the corner.

FA: John Griffths

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