Showing all 11 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
8 | ★★ Dance of the Curates
FA: John Griffiths, Max Keating & Ken McKinlay, 1982 | 70m, 2 | |||
V1 | Breakpoint
SDS on the underclings. Leftwards past the hanging block and onto the slabby rounded arete. Given the tiered landing best to not fall on the easy top half. Descent for this and the other boulder problems to the right is easiest by carefully down climbing diagonally left into the gully. | 8m | |||
V3 | ★★ Mastermind
Classic Highball face. SDS on underclings. Up into the obvious large undercling - don't reef on it - unnecessary and may break. Delicate moves follow above through the bulge to get established on the face above. Only added these two problems to theCrag so no one sees the clean face and bolts it! | 8m | |||
18 | ★ Gutter Talk
5m right of the start of Dance of the Curates is a slightly overhanging grey wall with 2 short cracks starting at 3m. Gutter Talk is the left crack. Originally written up to escape up and right and up the middle of the big buttress. Far easier to down climb diagonally left into the gully. The start of Gutter Talk actually offers a couple of enjoyable boulder problems to get established in the bowl at ~4m where the line relents so the following boulder problem starts continue to the top.
SDS from low undercling directly under the hueco would make for a more challenging start. FA: Andrew Stevens. Solo, 1988 | 8m | |||
17 | Down the Gurgler
The right crack just left of the cave. SDS V1 option as a highball boulder problem There is also a line on the left edge of the small cave SDS V1 up till over the initial bulge and at the base of the left facing corner above. Either down climb and drop off or move left and finish up Down the Gurgler. FA: Andrew Stevens. Solo., 1988 | 8m | |||
14 | ★ Lawyers In Love
Just right of the cave below the main groove 2m right of Down The Gurgler. Climb up to the foot of the groove. Up steepening then out left and up the face. Boulder problem at Lawyers In Love base SDS V1 - narrow rib direct without using the ramp to the left to get established on the good hold at the top of the rib. Easiest to traverse right and down FA: Peter Jacjson or John Griffiths., 1983 | 20m | |||
13 | Notes On Pillows
Climb the rib and crack 2m right of Lawyers In Love. Move left above broken tree to arête. Up arête (poor pro) using positive pockets on right-hand face to an obvious ledge (RB's) . Possible to finish up a smooth ramp to another ledge for something different.(20m) FA: John Griffiths, Max Keating & Ken McKinley., 1983 | 25m | |||
5 | Xerxes
Crack 2m right of Notes On Pillows.
FA: John Griffiths & Max Keating, 1982 | 80m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Deep Throat, Moist Lungs
Scramble up the gully just right of Notes On Pillows, about a third of the way up, opposite a small block is a wall with an obvious break at half height. Up the face to the break (#2½ , 3 cams), then past a bolt. FA: MacKenzie Usher & Andrew Stevens, 1988 | 8m, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Pock
(The next two climbs are on the block opposite the start of Deep Throat, Moist Lungs.)
FA: Andrew Stevens & MacKenzie Usher., 1988 | 8m, 1 | |||
16 | Who Ya Waving To?
Originally started up the flake on the right, now goes up the middle of the block. Start in the middle of the face directly below the bolt then straight up the face past two more bolts. FA: Andrew Stevens & MacKenzie Usher, 1988 | 9m, 2 |
Showing all 11 routes.