A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Eastern Outcrops 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.598396, -37.369494

Description:

Go through the town of Mt Macedon and continue for about another 3km.

About 20m past the turn off to the memorial cross, park at the turnoff to the Sanatorium Lake picnic area on the R.

Walk back across the Mt Macedon Rd and follow a faint path past a quarry to the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 PS 5 Unknown 12m
2 Russell 1 15 Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Space Jugging

If walking from the small, fire trail parking area on Mount Macedon Rd (300m north of the C328/Memorial Cross turnoff), the "Melbourne Views" buttress that contains Space Jugging will be one of the first you reach, and is just past the quarry. Look for a large pile of rockfall reaching down to the base of the rocks, and walk up to the left of it to reach Melbourne View Buttress, which starts half way up the cliff.

Space Jugging starts at the overhanging, juggy crack left of the left arete. Up and slightly right to a carrot bolt, then follow the jugs up the arete past another bolt.

FA: Andrew Stevens,MacKenzie Usher, 1988

15 Mixed 20m, 2
4 Excuse Me While I Touch the Sky 20 Unknown 20m
5 A1 5 Unknown 30m
6 D1 8 Unknown 8m
7 Gutter Talk 18 Unknown 8m
8 Down the Gurgler 17 Unknown 8m
9 Lawyers in Love 14 Unknown 20m
10 Notes on Pillows 13 Unknown 20m
11 Deep Throat, Moist Lungs 17 Unknown 8m
12 Pock 14 Unknown 8m
13 Who Ya Waving To? 16 Unknown 9m
14 Who Ya Waving To? Direct Start 16 Unknown 4m
15 A2 6 Unknown 12m
16 N 8 Unknown 13m
17 A3 10 Unknown 14m
18 Honeycomb Hangover 18 Unknown 15m
19 White Ant Wall 19 Unknown 15m
20 Fats All Round 15 Unknown 18m
21 Hazy Shade of Winter 17 Unknown 18m
22 H1 10 Unknown 23m
23 PD 11 Unknown 24m
24 PD Variant 12 Unknown
25 P1 16 Unknown 25m
26 SE 4 Unknown 12m
27 K 7 Unknown 20m
28 C 8 Unknown 21m
29 A4 3 Unknown 15m
30 G 8 Unknown 7m
31 P2 12 Unknown 7m
32 D2 7 Unknown 12m
33 H2 6 Unknown 18m
34 H3 6 Unknown 18m
35 S 6 Unknown 18m
36 B 5 Unknown 18m
37 Revenge of the Moths 18 Unknown 12m
38 A Change in the Weather 19 Unknown 18m
39 Silent Steel 20 Unknown 12m
40 Tip Toe 19 Unknown 12m
41 Geboor 19 Unknown 30m

1.1. Back Wall 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.597943, -37.369546

Description:

Unloved for years, some recent rebolting has seen a bit more interest of late. The cliff now sports plenty of shiny stainless at low grades.

Approach:

If climbing at the Lower Tier below Omega Block, the suggested approach is as follows:

From 'Grey Arete', continue walking away from the carpark along a series of vague pads, trending vaguely upwards. A very large fallen tree soon points down the slope, skirt this on the uphill side. From the top of the tree, continue slightly upwards (cairns may be visible). The pad now continues up and across the hill onto a more level area; the crag is hidden in the trees facing towards you on the left as you face uphill.

Alternative approach if coming straight from the carpark. Follow the tourist track towards Camels Hump summit, turn left on good path marked 'Danger Cliff Face' after 50ish metres down this track at a saddle (This saddle is easily reached from the other direction by scrambling up from omega block) turn right and head off the track. Initially go downhill and right then keep the outcrops above you immediately on your right. Follow this for 100m to the 50m long 20m high vertical cliff that is the Back Wall.

Descent Notes:

There are double bolt anchors at the top of many climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Friction Modified

Hard, short. Single bolt on the left hand end of the block.

18 Sport 8m, 1
2 Pocket Rocket

More thinness. Single bolt up the middle of the block.

18 Sport 8m, 1
3 Rev Head

The 24 you need when you're feeling down. Soft.

1FH & 1BR up the arete. Trad anchor. As of February 2015 both bolts are bash-in and the route will require cleaning.

24 Sport 8m, 2
4 Human Hex 4 Unknown 10m
5 Shod 13 Unknown 12m
6 News From Home 15 Unknown 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Summer Breeze

Left most line of 4FHs to crack (mid/large wires if you're worried) and up right to shared double U anchor.

15 Sport 15m, 4
8 Unknown

1 metre right of 'Summer Breeze', 5 bolts with a balancy start up to DBB. Make sure to extend anchor if toproping.

15 Sport 15m, 4
9 Skippy

Third line of bolts from the left. Up to either original chain over the lip, or step right to anchor on 'Undertow'.

13 Sport 25m, 5
10 Brian Boru

Line with single bolt in the middle of the sport routes, up to DBB on right.

14 Mixed 24m, 1
11 Undertow

Undercut start on arete past 4 FH to DBB anchor as for 'Brian Boru'.

FA: @mrewi, 2014

16 Sport 15m, 4
12 Locris / L

The trench. Marked with a square and an 'L' on the left side at the base.

3 Trad 24m
13 Tie The Knot

Start for 'Anthony's Arete'. Up for 2 bolts then step over the trench of 'Locris'. 4 more bolts to anchor.

FA: Phil Aarons, 2014

12 Sport 18m, 6
14 Anthony's Arete

Start on the right arete of 'Locris', and follow it up the slab. Trad gear at the top if you're worried.

FA: Liam Aarons, 2014

9 Sport 20m, 4
15 One For The Masses

Starts 3m right of the trench ('Locris'). Follow the FH, then up to anchor. Bonus large wires or slings if you don't like runout finishes.

FA: @mrewi, 2007

14 Sport 20m, 4
16 Owen Glyndower 14 Unknown 24m
17 Tobin Brothers 12 Unknown 25m
18 P3 13 Unknown 23m
19 Digger

Start 7m left of Rap Until You Crap. Climb obvious right leaning chunky flake crack. Step right 2m and climb steep red overhang off block. Mossy finish. Number 0 BD micro cam is pretty handy for the top.

FFA: @lewisclarey,@angelonanos, 2015

15 Trad 20m
20 Rap Till You Crap 19 Unknown 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 A4 Unknown 15m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Locris Trad 24m 1.1. Back Wall
4 SE Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Human Hex Unknown 10m 1.1. Back Wall
5 A1 Unknown 30m 1. Eastern Outcrops
B Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
PS Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
6 A2 Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
H2 Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
H3 Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
S Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
7 D2 Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
K Unknown 20m 1. Eastern Outcrops
8 C Unknown 21m 1. Eastern Outcrops
D1 Unknown 8m 1. Eastern Outcrops
G Unknown 7m 1. Eastern Outcrops
N Unknown 13m 1. Eastern Outcrops
9 Anthony's Arete Sport 20m, 4 1.1. Back Wall
10 A3 Unknown 14m 1. Eastern Outcrops
H1 Unknown 23m 1. Eastern Outcrops
11 PD Unknown 24m 1. Eastern Outcrops
12 P2 Unknown 7m 1. Eastern Outcrops
PD Variant Unknown 1. Eastern Outcrops
Tie The Knot Sport 18m, 6 1.1. Back Wall
Tobin Brothers Unknown 25m 1.1. Back Wall
13 Notes on Pillows Unknown 20m 1. Eastern Outcrops
P3 Unknown 23m 1.1. Back Wall
Shod Unknown 12m 1.1. Back Wall
Skippy Sport 25m, 5 1.1. Back Wall
14 Lawyers in Love Unknown 20m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Pock Unknown 8m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Brian Boru Mixed 24m, 1 1.1. Back Wall
One For The Masses Sport 20m, 4 1.1. Back Wall
Owen Glyndower Unknown 24m 1.1. Back Wall
15 Fats All Round Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Russell 1 Trad 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
* Space Jugging Mixed 20m, 2 1. Eastern Outcrops
Digger Trad 20m 1.1. Back Wall
News From Home Unknown 20m 1.1. Back Wall
Summer Breeze Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Back Wall
Unknown Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Back Wall
16 P1 Unknown 25m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Who Ya Waving To? Unknown 9m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Who Ya Waving To? Direct Start Unknown 4m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Undertow Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Back Wall
17 Deep Throat, Moist Lungs Unknown 8m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Down the Gurgler Unknown 8m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Hazy Shade of Winter Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
18 Gutter Talk Unknown 8m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Honeycomb Hangover Unknown 15m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Revenge of the Moths Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Friction Modified Sport 8m, 1 1.1. Back Wall
Pocket Rocket Sport 8m, 1 1.1. Back Wall
19 A Change in the Weather Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Geboor Unknown 30m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Tip Toe Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
White Ant Wall Unknown 15m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Rap Till You Crap Unknown 15m 1.1. Back Wall
20 Excuse Me While I Touch the Sky Unknown 20m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Silent Steel Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
24 Rev Head Sport 8m, 2 1.1. Back Wall