A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityUnknown, Sport and Trad
Long/Lat: 144.598396, -37.369494
Go through the town of Mt Macedon and continue for about another 3km.
About 20m past the turn off to the memorial cross, park at the turnoff to the Sanatorium Lake picnic area on the R.
Walk back across the Mt Macedon Rd and follow a faint path past a quarry to the cliff.
If walking from the small, fire trail parking area on Mount Macedon Rd (300m north of the C328/Memorial Cross turnoff), the "Melbourne Views" buttress that contains Space Jugging will be one of the first you reach, and is just past the quarry. Look for a large pile of rockfall reaching down to the base of the rocks, and walk up to the left of it to reach Melbourne View Buttress, which starts half way up the cliff.
Alternatively, from the summit access track, continue past the fenced lookout for about 75m, until just before the track ends and turns to a rocky scramble. Turn off to the right of the track and head NE for ~60m, tending right when you see the white gum tree (which grows from the base of the cliff, next to Gumslinger) to get to the access gully rather than the top of the cliff.
Space Jugging starts at the overhanging, juggy crack left of the left arete. Up and slightly right to a carrot bolt, then follow the jugs up the arete past another bolt.
FA: Andrew Stevens,MacKenzie Usher, 1988
|4||Excuse Me While I Touch the Sky||20||120m,|
FA: John Griffths
Dance of the Curates
1 30m. A groove on the wall facing the road, to the ledge. Left on ledges to a crack. Up this, then easily to below a ridge.
FA: John Griffiths,Max Keathing,,Max Keating, Ken McKinlay, 1982
|8||Down the Gurgler||17||8m|
|9||Lawyers in Love||14||20m|
|10||Notes on Pillows||13||20m|
|11||Deep Throat, Moist Lungs||17||8m|
|13||Who Ya Waving To?||16||9m|
|14||Who Ya Waving To? Direct Start||16||4m|
|19||White Ant Wall||19||15m|
|20||Fats All Round||15||18m|
|21||Hazy Shade of Winter||17||18m|
|25||Borrowed Manuscripts / Prometheus Direct Finish||16||25m|
|27||Kremen of the Space Patrol||7||20m|
|37||Revenge of the Moths||18||12m|
|38||A Change in the Weather||19||18m|
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Long/Lat: 144.597943, -37.369546
Unloved for years, some recent rebolting has seen a bit more interest of late. The cliff now sports plenty of shiny stainless at low grades.
From 'Grey Arete', continue walking away from the carpark along a series of vague pads, trending vaguely upwards. A very large fallen tree soon points down the slope, skirt this on the uphill side. From the top of the tree, continue slightly upwards (cairns may be visible). The pad now continues up and across the hill onto a more level area; the crag is hidden in the trees facing towards you on the left as you face uphill.
Alternative approach if coming straight from the carpark. Follow the tourist track towards Camels Hump summit, turn left on good path marked 'Danger Cliff Face' after 50ish metres down this track at a saddle (This saddle is easily reached from the other direction by scrambling up from omega block) turn right and head off the track. Initially go downhill and right then keep the outcrops above you immediately on your right. Follow this for 100m to the 50m long 20m high vertical cliff that is the Back Wall.
- Descent Notes:
There are double bolt anchors at the top of many climbs.
Hard, short. Single bolt on the left hand end of the block.
More thinness. Single bolt up the middle of the block.
The 24 you need when you're feeling down. Soft.
1FH & 1BR up the arete. Trad anchor. As of February 2015 both bolts are bash-in and the route will require cleaning.
|6||News From Home||15||20m|
Left most line of 4FHs to crack (mid/large wires if you're worried) and up right to shared double U anchor.
1 metre right of 'Summer Breeze', 5 bolts with a balancy start up to DBB. Make sure to extend anchor if toproping.
Third line of bolts from the left. Up to either original chain over the lip, or step right to anchor on 'Undertow'.
Line with single bolt in the middle of the sport routes, up to DBB on right.
Undercut start on arete past 4 FH to DBB anchor as for 'Brian Boru'.
FA: @mrewi, 2014
Locris / L
The trench. Marked with a square and an 'L' on the left side at the base.
Tie The Knot
FA: Phil Aarons, 2014
Start on the right arete of 'Locris', and follow it up the slab. Trad gear at the top if you're worried.
FA: Liam Aarons, 2014
One For The Masses
Starts 3m right of the trench ('Locris'). Follow the FH, then up to anchor. Bonus large wires or slings if you don't like runout finishes.
FA: @mrewi, 2007
Start 7m left of Rap Until You Crap. Climb obvious right leaning chunky flake crack. Step right 2m and climb steep red overhang off block. Mossy finish. Number 0 BD micro cam is pretty handy for the top.
FFA: @lewisclarey,@angelonanos, 2015
|20||Rap Till You Crap||19||15m|