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Table of contents

1. Eastern Outcrops 95 routes in Crag

Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.598495, -37.369268


Go through the town of Mt Macedon and continue for about another 3km.

About 20m past the turn off to the memorial cross, park at the turnoff to the Sanatorium Lake picnic area on the R.

Walk back across the Mt Macedon Rd and follow a faint path past a quarry to the cliff.


Direct path to quarry can be difficult to find these days as there are lots of fallen trees and thick ferns and bracken. Alternatively, follow walking track for 70m from the gate. Pass the "Walking Trail" sign at about 50m and 20m past this on the left, at a thicket of trees is a cairn. Head straight off the path at right angles and follow the line of cairns through the trees and up the hill for about 3 minutes to the quarry.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Deep Throat, Moist Lungs 17 Unknown 8m
2 Pock 14 Unknown 8m
3 Who Ya Waving To? 16 Unknown 9m
4 Who Ya Waving To? Direct Start 16 Unknown 4m
5 Athena 6 Unknown 12m
6 Narcissus 8 Unknown 13m
7 Aratus 10 Unknown 14m
8 Honeycomb Hangover 18 Unknown 15m
9 White Ant Wall 19 Unknown 15m
10 Fats All Round 15 Unknown 18m
11 Hazy Shade of Winter 17 Unknown 18m
12 Hermes 10 Unknown 23m
13 Prometheus Direct 11 Unknown 24m
14 Prometheus 8 Unknown 40m
15 Borrowed Manuscripts / Prometheus Direct Finish 16 Unknown 25m
16 Stele 4 Unknown 12m
17 Kremen of the Space Patrol 7 Unknown 20m
18 Keres 8 Unknown 21m
19 A-Two 3 Unknown 15m
20 The Gymnast 8 Unknown 7m
21 Pellet 12 Unknown 7m
22 D2 7 Unknown 12m
23 H2 6 Unknown 18m
24 H3 6 Unknown 18m
25 S 6 Unknown 18m
26 B 5 Unknown 18m
27 Revenge of the Moths 18 Unknown 12m
28 A Change in the Weather 19 Unknown 18m
29 Silent Steel 20 Unknown 12m
30 Tip Toe 19 Unknown 12m
31 Geboor 19 Unknown 30m
32 .



1.1. Barringo Tower 4 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 144.598957, -37.369597


Immediately right of the quarry is a small tower with the first climbs

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hellas

The thrutchy crack on the left side of the tower.

FA: John Griffiths, Max Keating, 1982

4 Trad 22m
2 Anabasis

The rib right of Hellas and left of the cracks on the front of the tower.

FA: John Griffiths,Max Keating, 1982

7 Trad 25m
3 Hestia

The left crack on the front of the tower.

FA: Max Keating, John Griffiths, 1982

7 Trad 25m
4 Galerias

The rib in the middle of the face. Finish up right crack.

FA: John Griffiths, Max Keating, Ken McKinlay, 1982

3 Trad 30m

1.2. Melbourne View Buttress 11 routes in Cliff

Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.598721, -37.369358


Approximately 20m right of Barringo Tower there is a white gum tree in a gully. Go up past this (some prefer to traverse right at the gum tree into the next gully) to the white gum tree at the very top of the gully. Gumslinger starts here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gumslinger 18 Unknown 7m
2 A Rook 18 Unknown 7m
3 A Knight 18 Unknown 8m
4 Pnyx

The diagonal left grassy chimney.

FA: John Griffiths, 1982

6 Trad 12m
5 Styx

As for Pynx, the mossy middle chimney.

FA: John Griffiths, 1982

5 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Russell 1 15 Trad 18m
7 Arcadia

The obvious crack/trench 5m right of Styx

FA: Max Keating, Ken McKinlay, 1982

6 Trad 20m
8 Russell 2

Three meters left of Space Jugging. One carrot bolt.

FA: Russ Crow

15 Mixed 19m, 1
9 * Space Jugging

If walking from the small, fire trail parking area on Mount Macedon Rd (300m north of the C328/Memorial Cross turnoff), the "Melbourne Views" buttress that contains Space Jugging will be one of the first you reach, and is just past the quarry. Look for a large pile of rockfall reaching down to the base of the rocks, and walk up to the left of it to reach Melbourne View Buttress, which starts half way up the cliff.

Alternatively, from the summit access track, continue past the fenced lookout for about 75m, until just before the track ends and turns to a rocky scramble. Turn off to the right of the track and head NE for ~60m, tending right when you see the white gum tree (which grows from the base of the cliff, next to Gumslinger) to get to the access gully rather than the top of the cliff.

Space Jugging starts at the overhanging, juggy crack left of the left arete. Up and slightly right to a carrot bolt, then follow the jugs up the arete past another bolt.

FA: Andrew Stevens,MacKenzie Usher, 1988

15 Mixed 20m, 2
10 Excuse Me While I Touch the Sky 20 Mixed 20m, 1
11 Arachnophobia

FA: John Griffths

5 Trad 30m

1.3. Greasy Grass Gully 6 routes in Area

All Trad

The next major gully right from Melbourne View with the horrifying prospect of sliding said greasy grass too far to be good for you!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Aratus

The scoop and wall at or about the left arete of White Ant Wall

10 Trad 14m
2 Honeycomb Hangover

Start 2m right of Aratus. Left of scoop to break, then right and up overhanging wall.

18 Trad 15m
3 White Ant Wall

As for HCH to break then continue right until carrot bolt and up wall above.

19 Mixed 15m, 1
4 Next to Impossible

Follow trench up right of HCH to clip bolt. Step left and climb wall 1m right of WAW.

18 Trad 18m
5 Impossible

As for NTI but continue direct past bolt climbing 1m right of NTI (!)

18 Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Hazy Shade of Winter

Dont fall over yourself but this is actually ok! Straight up red wall opposite WAW past 3 carrots. Worth setting a trad belay to avoid the party plummeting down the gully if you miss the crux first bolt!

18 Trad 18m

1.4. Xerxes 5 routes in Cliff

Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.598975, -37.369275


This area consists of the lower tiers which are found just past Barringo Tower, with Gutter Talk etc on it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dance of the Curates
  1. 30m. A groove on the wall facing the road, to the ledge. Left on ledges to a crack. Up this, then easily to below a ridge.

  2. 40m. Go halfway up ridge, step right to finish up the crack.

FA: John Griffiths,Max Keating,Ken McKinlay, 1982

8 Trad 70m 2
2 Gutter Talk 18 Unknown 8m
3 Down the Gurgler 17 Unknown 8m
4 Lawyers in Love 14 Unknown 20m
5 Notes on Pillows 13 Unknown 20m

1.5. Back Wall 28 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 144.597994, -37.369218


Unloved for years, some recent rebolting has seen a bit more interest of late. The cliff now sports plenty of shiny stainless at low grades.


If climbing at the Lower Tier below Omega Block, the suggested approach is as follows:

From 'Grey Arete', continue walking away from the carpark along a series of vague pads, trending vaguely upwards. A very large fallen tree soon points down the slope, skirt this on the uphill side. From the top of the tree, continue slightly upwards (cairns may be visible). The pad now continues up and across the hill onto a more level area; the crag is hidden in the trees facing towards you on the left as you face uphill.

Alternative approach if coming straight from the carpark. Follow the tourist track towards Camels Hump summit, turn left on good path marked 'Danger Cliff Face' after 50ish metres down this track at a saddle (This saddle is easily reached from the other direction by scrambling up from omega block) turn right and head off the track. Initially go downhill and right then keep the outcrops above you immediately on your right. Follow this for 100m to the 50m long 20m high vertical cliff that is the Back Wall.

Descent Notes:

There are double bolt anchors at the top of many climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Friction Modified

Hard, short. Single bolt on the left hand end of the 'Rev Head' block.

18 Sport 8m, 1
2 Rocket Pocket

More thinness, up the middle of the 'Rev Head' block.

18 Sport 8m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Rev Head

Up the short, blunt arete, avoiding using the boulder or wall to the right. Bouldery crux getting past a fixed hanger, then thin slabbing above, past a carrot bolt. Originally graded 24, but realistically is only 22, or possibly 23 if you're short.

Trad anchor. Scramble off left, or continue up Waning Crescent. Rebolted Jan 2016.

FA: Rob Nabben, 1990

22 Sport 8m, 2
4 Waning Crescent

15m left of the Locris trench, between the short arete (Rev Head) and another trench (Human Hex) is a slightly overhanging, blunt arete with a boulder under it. Onto the boulder, then up the steep section directly over the two FHs, on crimps and good side-pulls. After the 2nd FH, move slightly left to where the left hand crack briefly opens enough to take gear. A fist-sized hex or Camalot #3-4 sized cam is strongly advised here. Reach left to large, flat hand ledge, then continue across and pull up around left of protrusion above. Easy finish, trad anchor. Walk off to rappel from anchors above Skippy or One For the Masses. Highly enjoyable, and would be worth a star if not for its contrived attempts to avoid easier climbing.

FA: @dscarlett, 2016

16 Mixed 15m, 2
5 Waning Motivation

As for 'Waning Crescent', but climb to the left of the bolts and/or continue straight upwards after the big hex or cam placement rather than moving left. To be regarded as a piker's variant, and written up only to discourage people from cheating as such.

FA: @dscarlett, 2016

15 Mixed 15m, 2
6 Human Hex

The chimney right of 'Rev Head'.

4 Trad 10m
7 Oh Fuck

The arête 1m right of the 'Human Hex' chimney. Negligible pro.

FA: Robin Holmes, 1999

13 R Trad 10m
8 Shod

2 meters left of 'News From Home'. Up the groove.

13 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 News From Home

About 12m right of 'Human Hex' or 4m left of 'Summer Breeze'. Onto a bollard, up past a rusty carrot bolt at 8m to a niche. Out right to finish up crack. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear, or bolts above 'Skippy' are about 3m away.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 1989

15 Mixed 20m, 1
10 Summer Breeze

Left most line of 4FHs to crack (mid/large wires if you're worried) and up right to shared double U anchor.

15 Sport 15m, 4
11 Gary's groove

1 metre right of 'Summer Breeze', 5 bolts with a balancy start up to DBB. Crack at the top takes a cam around Camalot #2 size if you'd like to avoid the very slightly runout finish. Make sure to extend anchor if toproping.

15 Sport 15m, 5
12 Skippy

Third line of bolts from the left. Rappel station at top.

FA: James McIntosh, Melanie Taws, 1988

13 Sport 25m, 5
13 Brian Boru

Line with single bolt in the middle of the sport routes, up to DBB on right. Little to no protection, other than the bolt, available until the last few meters.

14 R Mixed 24m, 1
14 Undertow

Undercut start on arete past 4 FH to DBB anchor as for 'Brian Boru'.

FA: @mrewi, 2014

16 Sport 15m, 4
15 Locris / L

The trench. Marked with a square and an 'L' on the left side at the base.

3 Trad 24m
16 * Tie The Knot

Start for 'Anthony's Arete'. Up for 2 bolts then step over the trench of 'Locris'. 4 more bolts to anchor.

FA: Phil Aarons, 2014

12 Sport 18m, 6
17 Anthony's Arete

Start on the right arete of 'Locris', and follow it up the slab. Take trad gear for the top if you'd be uncomfortable with a easy climbing through a 4-5m runout between the last bolt and the anchors.

FA: Liam Aarons, 2014

9 Sport 20m, 4
18 One For The Masses

Starts 3m right of the trench ('Locris'). Follow the FH, then up to anchor. Bonus large wires or slings if you don't like runout finishes.

FA: @mrewi, 2007

14 Sport 20m, 4
19 Owen Glyndower

Shallow groove just above right side of small cave 5m right of 'Locris'.

FA: @armstp,Jerry Maddox, 1989

14 Mixed 24m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Tobin Brothers

The cleanest section of wall 10m right of 'Locris'. Retrobolted in 2016 at the request of the first ascensionist. Rap station descent.

FA: James McIntosh, Melanie Taws, 1988

12 Sport 18m, 5
21 Prod

5m right of 'Tobin Brothers'. No protection until after the crux.

13 Trad 23m
22 Digger

Start 7m left of Rap Until You Crap. Climb obvious right leaning chunky flake crack. Step right 2m and climb steep red overhang off block. Mossy finish. Number 0 BD micro cam is pretty handy for the top.

FFA: @lewisclarey,@angelonanos, 2015

15 Trad 20m
23 Rap Till You Crap

Originally written up as: "Start at the buttress at the extreme right of the cliff (right of the caves). Hard start then easier up the middle of the buttress."

Location unclear, and even the FA doesn't remember where it is, except to add that the start is undercut. Possibly the orange arête at the right end of the caves?

FA: James McIntosh,Melanie Taws, 1988

19 Trad 15m

1.5.1. Billy Goat Bluffs 5 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.598156, -37.369353


The two bluffs at the top of the far right end of Back Wall. There is a ledge at the base covered in goat shit, hence the name!


Can be approached from the lookout track or from the top of Back Wall.

  1. from the lookout, step over the fence and head down over the saddle. Continue on for about 50m where a bollard covered outcrop on the left marks the top of the right hand bluff. From here head down and left to the white gum that is at the end of the ledge. Siddle left around the corner and onto the main ledge.

  2. From the top of Tobin Brothers - head up and right about 5m to the white gum and the start of the ledge. The same approach can be made from the top of One For The Masses or any of the routes on the main part of Back Wall.


Unknown if others have logged routes up here previously. Nothing found in previous guide books or databases.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Horny Nanny Direct

Directly up the arete of Horny Nanny.

20 Sport 7m, 2
2 Horny Nanny

Stick clip the bolt on the arete and climb the deep corner 3m right of the overhanging arete. At 3m, hand traverse left to the arete on the obvious horizontal, past the "horn". Climb the arete until you can step onto the easy slab at the top. A fixed threaded sling is the only anchor at the moment.

A belay bolt is found on the wall to the right of the starting corner.

18 Sport 7m, 2
3 Hoof and Poof

Start at overhanging corner 3m right of the start of Horny Nanny. Step up awkwardly to level of the 1st bolt. Reach out right to the good jug before coming back left to holds near the 2nd bolt. Step onto the slab above and head up and right to anchors. Trad for upper section.

The jug out right can be eliminated at 18/19.

A belay bolt is found on the wall just left of the start.

16 Sport 8m, 2
4 Billy Butt Dress

3m right of Hoof and Poof. Climb the overhanging diagonal, placing gear in the crack. Once the big jug on the left is reached, pull onto the slab above to finish at anchors on Hoof and Poof.

A belay bolt is found at the base of this climb and can be used for bothe this and Nanny's climb.

13 Trad 8m
5 Nanny's Climb

2m right of the start of Billy Butt Dress. Step onto the right hand horn and up right of the arete. Jug in the middle of the right face provides access to the top of the arete. Go left to join Billy Butt Dress at the top.

9 Trad 8m

1.6. The Gatehouse 4 routes in Boulder

All Boulder

Three boulders come together to make a narrow passageway and some excellent bouldering. Descend the boulders via the chimney in the narrow passage way.


Follow the path to the Back Wall. Where the path leads up to the Back Wall, keep walking ~100m down hill to the north-east from the back wall. Can't miss the boulders and cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Nonplus panacea

Stand start with good crimps. Move up through some good crimps and great moves. Top out slightly to the left.

FA: @dalai

V4 Boulder 8m
2 ** Ego Tripping at the Gates of Hell

Stand start with right-facing side pull. Move up and slightly left. Don't forget to top out.

FA: Robin Holmes

V3 Boulder 8m
3 * Devil's in the Details

Stand start in a elevator door move (two gastons). Think 'stick' and throw up to the jugs and top out.

The green block to the left is out.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V5 Boulder 6m
4 *** Moamyn's Manual

Start standing up into the sloping scoop. Grab the tiny crimps and learn to fly.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2016

V6 Boulder 7m

1.7. The Thing 5 routes in Boulder

All Boulder

A beautiful highball wall.


Its directly below the gatehouse, on the nonplus panacea climb, walk down the steep hill, you will see a reddish wall, walk down some more and you've found it. I prefer to park at the cameron drive parking area, walk through the emergency track to ordinary men boulder, cross through to eastern outcrop to the gatehouse and walk down otherwise follow the path to the back wall but theres more uphill walking.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Its clobbering time

Stand start on the two underclings. Move up the small holds to a large pinch. Make your way up the head wall and top out. The holds on the head wall are dusty and slippery.

V3 Boulder 6m
2 ** The Fantastic v4

Awesome pumpy highball problem. Sit start right hand on the side cling left hand on the crimp. Throw your left hand on the big pocket, then the the next one above it, and to the next one above that. Move your right to the pinch. Left hand undercling and slap your right to the end of the head wall and top out as its clobbering time.

V4 Boulder 6m
3 The invisible floor

Sit start and make your way up as per TFv4, make a move to the left instead of right. Do not use the left side of the wall as a foot hold. Top out.

V3 Boulder 6m
4 ** Deathwish

V6? Start as TFv4. Use the right hand on the undercling, reach up with the left on the left most edge and move up the head wall. Looks pretty sketchy.

V6 Boulder 6m
5 Easy Peasy

Located above The Thing. Move up the edges. Good for a warm up.

V0 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 A-Two Unknown 15m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Galerias Trad 30m 1.1. Barringo Tower
Locris Trad 24m 1.5. Back Wall
4 Stele Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Hellas Trad 22m 1.1. Barringo Tower
Human Hex Trad 10m 1.5. Back Wall
5 B Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Arachnophobia Trad 30m 1.2. Melbourne View Buttress
Styx Trad 12m 1.2. Melbourne View Buttress
6 Athena Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
H2 Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
H3 Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
S Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Arcadia Trad 20m 1.2. Melbourne View Buttress
Pnyx Trad 12m 1.2. Melbourne View Buttress
7 D2 Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Kremen of the Space Patrol Unknown 20m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Anabasis Trad 25m 1.1. Barringo Tower
Hestia Trad 25m 1.1. Barringo Tower
8 Keres Unknown 21m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Narcissus Unknown 13m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Prometheus Unknown 40m 1. Eastern Outcrops
The Gymnast Unknown 7m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Dance of the Curates Trad 70m 2 1.4. Xerxes
9 Anthony's Arete Sport 20m, 4 1.5. Back Wall
Nanny's Climb Trad 8m 1.5.1. Billy Goat Bluffs
10 Aratus Unknown 14m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Hermes Unknown 23m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Aratus Trad 14m 1.3. Greasy Grass Gully
11 Prometheus Direct Unknown 24m 1. Eastern Outcrops
12 Pellet Unknown 7m 1. Eastern Outcrops
* Tie The Knot Sport 18m, 6 1.5. Back Wall
Tobin Brothers Sport 18m, 5 1.5. Back Wall
13 Notes on Pillows Unknown 20m 1.4. Xerxes
Prod Trad 23m 1.5. Back Wall
Shod Trad 12m 1.5. Back Wall
Skippy Sport 25m, 5 1.5. Back Wall
Billy Butt Dress Trad 8m 1.5.1. Billy Goat Bluffs
13 R Oh Fuck Trad 10m 1.5. Back Wall
14 Pock Unknown 8m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Lawyers in Love Unknown 20m 1.4. Xerxes
One For The Masses Sport 20m, 4 1.5. Back Wall
Owen Glyndower Mixed 24m, 1 1.5. Back Wall
14 R Brian Boru Mixed 24m, 1 1.5. Back Wall
15 Fats All Round Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Russell 1 Trad 18m 1.2. Melbourne View Buttress
Russell 2 Mixed 19m, 1 1.2. Melbourne View Buttress
* Space Jugging Mixed 20m, 2 1.2. Melbourne View Buttress
Digger Trad 20m 1.5. Back Wall
Gary's groove Sport 15m, 5 1.5. Back Wall
News From Home Mixed 20m, 1 1.5. Back Wall
Summer Breeze Sport 15m, 4 1.5. Back Wall
Waning Motivation Mixed 15m, 2 1.5. Back Wall
V0 Easy Peasy Boulder 1.7. The Thing
16 Borrowed Manuscripts Unknown 25m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Who Ya Waving To? Unknown 9m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Who Ya Waving To? Direct Start Unknown 4m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Undertow Sport 15m, 4 1.5. Back Wall
Waning Crescent Mixed 15m, 2 1.5. Back Wall
Hoof and Poof Sport 8m, 2 1.5.1. Billy Goat Bluffs
17 Deep Throat, Moist Lungs Unknown 8m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Hazy Shade of Winter Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Down the Gurgler Unknown 8m 1.4. Xerxes
18 Honeycomb Hangover Unknown 15m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Revenge of the Moths Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
A Knight Unknown 8m 1.2. Melbourne View Buttress
A Rook Unknown 7m 1.2. Melbourne View Buttress
Gumslinger Unknown 7m 1.2. Melbourne View Buttress
* Hazy Shade of Winter Trad 18m 1.3. Greasy Grass Gully
Honeycomb Hangover Trad 15m 1.3. Greasy Grass Gully
Impossible Trad 18m 1.3. Greasy Grass Gully
Next to Impossible Trad 18m 1.3. Greasy Grass Gully
Gutter Talk Unknown 8m 1.4. Xerxes
Friction Modified Sport 8m, 1 1.5. Back Wall
Rocket Pocket Sport 8m, 2 1.5. Back Wall
Horny Nanny Sport 7m, 2 1.5.1. Billy Goat Bluffs
19 A Change in the Weather Unknown 18m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Geboor Unknown 30m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Tip Toe Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
White Ant Wall Unknown 15m 1. Eastern Outcrops
White Ant Wall Mixed 15m, 1 1.3. Greasy Grass Gully
Rap Till You Crap Trad 15m 1.5. Back Wall
20 Silent Steel Unknown 12m 1. Eastern Outcrops
Excuse Me While I Touch the Sky Mixed 20m, 1 1.2. Melbourne View Buttress
Horny Nanny Direct Sport 7m, 2 1.5.1. Billy Goat Bluffs
22 Rev Head Sport 8m, 2 1.5. Back Wall
V3 ** Ego Tripping at the Gates of Hell Boulder 8m 1.6. The Gatehouse
Its clobbering time Boulder 6m 1.7. The Thing
The invisible floor Boulder 6m 1.7. The Thing
V4 ** Nonplus panacea Boulder 8m 1.6. The Gatehouse
** The Fantastic v4 Boulder 6m 1.7. The Thing
V5 * Devil's in the Details Boulder 6m 1.6. The Gatehouse
V6 *** Moamyn's Manual Boulder 7m 1.6. The Gatehouse
** Deathwish Boulder 6m 1.7. The Thing
? . Boulder 1. Eastern Outcrops