Routes as trad in Eastern Outcrops

The thrutchy crack on the left side of the tower.

The rib right of Hellas and left of the cracks on the front of the tower.

The left crack on the front of the tower.

The rib in the middle of the face. Finish up right crack.

A King needs A Queen for protection. Almost a sport route! The arete and face left of Pynx at the far right side of Gumslinger Wall. Climb to the first bolt of A Queen then continue straight up the arete and face to Rook's Return DBB. The second runner is from slinging a spike and the top 2 runners are by side clipping A Queen's last 2 FHs.

The diagonal left grassy chimney.

As for Pynx, the mossy middle chimney.

Climb the face right of Styx past 2 BRs and placements before the first bolt and up high,

The obvious crack/trench 5m right of Styx

Three meters left of Space Jugging. One carrot bolt.

Space Jugging starts at the overhanging, juggy crack left of the left arete. Up and slightly right to a carrot bolt, then follow the jugs up the arete past another carrot bolt.

A height dependent grade. Starts 3m right of Space Jugging at an easy angled ramp with a short hand crack. Up the ramp, then left , past the BR, then move up and right, up and back left, then over the overhang.

Up the ramp to Excuse Me While I Touch The Sky, up it for a couple of moves, traverse right and finish up the corner.

1. 30m. A groove on the wall facing the road, to the ledge. Left on ledges to a crack. Up this, then easily to below a ridge.

2. 40m. Go halfway up ridge, step right to finish up the crack.

5m right of the start of Dance of the Curates is a slightly overhanging grey wall with 2 short cracks starting at 3m. Gutter Talk is the left crack. Originally written up to escape up and right and up the middle of the big buttress. Far easier to down climb diagonally left into the gully.

The start of Gutter Talk actually offers a couple of enjoyable boulder problems to get established in the bowl at ~4m where the line relents so the following boulder problem starts continue to the top.

• SDS Left Gutter V2. SDS underclings as for Mastermind - powerful sequence past the hueco and into the line.

• SDS Right Gutter V3 SDS sidepulls down right in the seam. Stretch up left into the hueco and continue up Gutter Talk.

SDS from low undercling directly under the hueco would make for a more challenging start.

The right crack just left of the cave.

SDS V1 option as a highball boulder problem

There is also a line on the left edge of the small cave

SDS V1 up till over the initial bulge and at the base of the left facing corner above. Either down climb and drop off or move left and finish up Down the Gurgler.

Just right of the cave below the main groove 2m right of Down The Gurgler. Climb up to the foot of the groove. Up steepening then out left and up the face.

Boulder problem at Lawyers In Love base

SDS V1 - narrow rib direct without using the ramp to the left to get established on the good hold at the top of the rib. Easiest to traverse right and down

Climb the rib and crack 2m right of Lawyers In Love. Move left above broken tree to arête. Up arête (poor pro) using positive pockets on right-hand face to an obvious ledge (RB's) . Possible to finish up a smooth ramp to another ledge for something different.(20m)

Crack 2m right of Notes On Pillows.

1. 40m Easily up wall to below the blocky ridge.

2. 40m Ridge and crack above

Scramble up the gully just right of Notes On Pillows, about a third of the way up, opposite a small block is a wall with an obvious break at half height. Up the face to the break (#2½ , 3 cams), then past a bolt.

(The next two climbs are on the block opposite the start of Deep Throat, Moist Lungs.)

1. The left arête past a bolt.

Originally started up the flake on the right, now goes up the middle of the block. Start in the middle of the face directly below the bolt then straight up the face past two more bolts.

Maybe the top of Dance Of The Curates. It is on the same level as Space Jugging apron but 15m to the right. You need to scramble down from Space Jugging, around the buttress and back up. The left facing corner with a bolt at the top of the gully. Finish up either the right corner or step left and up on buckets.

(To access the next 5 routes you need to go to the very top of the Greasy Grass gully track and move right around the arete from the start of Aratus)

Straight up the wall as best as possible passing a suss TCU (3 cam unit) and two carrot bolts. - Or - start in the corner under the first carrot. Pass this on the face, then a wire and easy climbing to the top bolt. Blast up past this to the top.

The left (OR RIGHT?) facing corner/chimney at the top of the gully. Initialled.

Start 2m left of Narcissus and climb the bulging arete and slabby wall above straight up.

Three metres right of Athena. Initialled. Up the bulging juggy wall, a good route, almost worth a star.

At the vertex of the parabola formed by the base of the buttress, midway between curves A and N, bisect these 2 curves to the apex. (Hard start, wide crack, swing left onto the face then straight up.)

3m right of Narcissus. The scoop and then the wall above.

Start 2m right of Aratus. Left of the scoop. Up the buttress to the break. Straight up, then veer right and up the overhanging wall.

As for Honeycomb Hangover. Up the buttress, to the break. Right across this to a Glue Bolt (SafeCliffsVictoria 2003); hard to see from below, then up the wall above.

Start near Honeycomb Hangover. Follow trench up to right then step up to clip carrot bolt. Step back down then swing left. Finish up wall 1m right of White Ant Wall.

Start as for Next To Impossible, but continue directly past carrot bolt to finish 1m right of that climb.

Don't fall over yourself but this is actually ok! Straight up red wall opposite WAW past 3 carrots. Worth setting a trad belay to avoid the party plummeting down the gully if you miss the crux first bolt! There is an old carrot bolt there for said purpose.

Opposite Honeycomb Hangover at the ramp below a big flake. Up the flake, over the bulge and up water streak to the GlueBolt (SaferCliffsVictoria 2003). Up the groove to the top.

The nice crack/offwidth 10m right of Hazy Shade Of Winter (1m right of the arête).

Starts 2m right of Hermes. Straight over the flake.

Starts 2m right of Prometheus Direct at the chimney/groove. Up the groove until you can traverse left to the flake and over it.

Up the chimney as for Prometheus and over the bulge.

Is this the worst route you’ve ever seen? Starts 4m right of Prometheus. Up to the slab, traverse right up the crack. Left at the steepening and go to the top of the chimney crack.

As for Stele Evasion. The slab direct.

As for Keres. Climb the groove and arête.

Start 2m right of Stele Evasion. Poor protection and an even poorer write-up. The length of the climb is given as 20m and so is the length of the second pitch, go figure.

1. Xm Climb chimney groove until you can go right, follow the crack to the ledge.

2. 20m? The crack behind.

Starts 3m right of Keres. Initialled.

1. 14m The easy slab. Now has 2 bolt brackets and a ring lower off at the ledge. (Take a 2cm nut to place 2m up and right past the 2nd bolt, if you dont like the run out)

2. 70m Move the belay 60m right (is this a rock climb or a bushwalk?) to below a short groove and then climb it.

Was clean when first done. The right of two chimneys in the corner left of A2. Exit right at the overhang.

Not an aid route! In the amphitheatre above and right of Cella is a worthless deep groove/chimney in the middle of the wall.

Quite good and reasonably protected. Bridge the groove to the narrowing at 7m. Step left and climb the left arête to the top.

Belay at top of the grassy gully. Boulder to top of pinnacle on the right to the main face. Up the centre of face to the groove. Place dubious protection then up and slightly right on suspect holds. Climb past mossy ledge to belay on boulders above

Poorly protected, not a beginners lead. About 30m right of A2 on the same level as Cella is a small thin buttress.

1. 20m Climb the rib.

2. 30m The low angled wall behind. Left across gully and up

About 2m right of Hydra. 1. 25m The left side of the slab to a ledge. 2. 8m Step across and climb the crack behind. Diagonally over the boulders to below a shattered groove. 3. 22m The groove.

Five metres right of Salon.

1. 30m From initial climbt he right side of the slab.

2. 18m The arête behind. Step across the chimney.

3. 15m The wall on the left then crack, easy

( There is a buttress below the Amphitheatre with the next 4 climbs )

On the left side of the buttress below and right of Cella. Up and over the prominent flake.

Starts 3m right of the Gymnast where the upper section of rock joins the lower section.

Eight metres down and right of Pellet between two water grooves. 1. 15m Up the buttress to the second ledge. 2. 20m Cross the chimney below large chockstones and climb the left wall.

Four metres right and uphill from Demeter.

1. From initial 'H2', Climb rib forming left side of cave.

2. ?m Wall.

widowed routes placeholder

As for 'Waning Crescent', but climb to the left of the first bolts and/or continue straight upwards after the second bolt rather than moving left. To be regarded as a piker's variant, and written up only to discourage people from cheating as such.

The chimney right of 'Rev Head'.

The arête 1m right of the 'Human Hex' chimney. Negligible pro.

2 meters left of 'News From Home'. Up the groove.

About 12m right of 'Human Hex' or 4m left of 'Summer Breeze'. Onto a bollard, up past a rusty carrot bolt at 8m to a niche. Out right to finish up crack. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear, or bolts above 'Summer Breeze' are about 3m away.

The trench. Marked with a square and an 'L' on the left side at the base.

5m right of 'Tobin Brothers'. No protection until after the crux.

Start at overhanging corner 3m right of the start of Horny Nanny. Step up awkwardly to level of the 1st bolt. Reach out right to the good jug before coming back left to holds near the 2nd bolt. Step onto the slab above and head up and right to anchors. Trad for upper section.

The jug out right can be eliminated at 18/19.

A belay bolt is found on the wall just left of the start.

3m right of Hoof and Poof. Climb the overhanging diagonal, placing gear in the crack. Once the big jug on the left is reached, pull onto the slab above to finish at anchors on Hoof and Poof.

A belay bolt is found at the base of this climb and can be used for bothe this and Nanny's climb.

2m right of the start of Billy Butt Dress. Step onto the right hand horn and up right of the arete. Jug in the middle of the right face provides access to the top of the arete. Go left to join Billy Butt Dress at the top.

Same start as 'Red ANZAC'. Climb obvious right leaning chunky flake crack. Step right 2m and climb steep red overhang off block. Mossy finish. Number 0 BD micro cam is pretty handy for the top.

The orange arête at the right end of the caves, with an undercut start, between the large tree and pointy boulder to the right. Resist the temptation to bridge off the boulder, and instead go left through a crux start up up to a stance. Delicate traverse right to the arête, then it gets much juggier from there. At the big ledge, walk back and right and continue up the next wall.

The start can be protected with pre-placed, finger-size cams, by traversing in from the cave and using the diagonal crack above the bollard, then scrambling back down to start. (Or just climb from the cave to bring it down to around grade 16-17.)