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Table of contents

1. Camels Hump 246 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.597028, -37.369536

Description:

Mount Macedon is a small town located 64 kilometers northwest of Melbourne. Camels Hump is the highest peak of Mount Macedon. This small rocky outcrop is relatively unimpressive but is in fact the 400 million year old remnant of one of the largest volcanoes ever seen in Earth's history.

It has steep and solid rock, with a variety of pumpy sport routes, tall trad lines, and crispy boulder problems. The area in great for climbers not wanting to make a long drive to the bigger named crags. If you're climbing grades 16-20 or V2-6, there's plenty of quality here worth ticking.

Approach:

Take the Calder Hwy (M79) out of Melbourne. Get off at the Mt Macedon exit (C322) and head up the Mount. The easiest approach to the crag is to simply walk along a trail marked "Emergency Use Only", that leaves from the Camel's Hump car park, and weaves around to the base of the Omega Block area.

1.1. Omega Block Area 133 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.595893, -37.369529

Description:© (willmonks)

The main area

Approach:

Go through the town of Mt Macedon and continue for about 3km up C322. Turn LEFT at the signpost to the Mt Macedon memorial cross (C328).

About 500m in on this road there is a car park and information sign; park here.

Walk along the track that starts at the western end of the car park. A couple meters down, take the right fork (marked "Emergency Track Only"). Follow this track past a few choss piles (some of which are bolted) until you see a track heading up the hill on the right.

OMEGA BLOCK is about 60m up the hill and the LOWER TIER is 30m straight ahead.

1.1.1. Privy Block 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 144.595555, -37.369827

Description:

Coming along the track toward Omega Block, this is the first buttress of any substance. This buttress has some less-than-good routes, now some great new sport routes (on front of buttress) and some excellent bouldering. The fallen tree has recently disintegrated exposing a couple of previously lost problems. Note - all older exiting routes are shown under crag title 'Gully behind Omega Block', these will be deleted.

Access Issues:

Coming along the track toward Omega Block, this is the first buttress of any substance. It is located right beside track.

Approach:

Follow the track on the WEST side of the car park. Twenty metres down, follow the "Emergency Only" track. Keep walking about 200 meters and you'll pass by the buttress.

History:

Older exiting routes put up mostly in the 90's with originals (Straining Rail) going back to the 60's. Crag dragged kicking and screaming into current Camels era by the locals looking to disperse the crowds and to get more pitches in mid week!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Southside

Starts south side (underneath) The Hull. Stand start on edges on lip (and/or poor underlings) of the hull and establish feet with difficulty. Steeply up a couple of moves (awesome heel/hand match) to join TH. The slab on left is obviously out (but makes for an ok VE).

Boulder Project
2 The Half South

Start RH on low lip, LH on juggy pocket (old tick) ie all except hard first move of Southside. Up into the Hull.

V5 Boulder
3 The Hull

Start as Babylon but head left below small overlap to climb the underside of 'the hull'. Finish at monster jug up right after left hand flake jug. Slab on left out.

V4 Boulder
4 Babylon

The hanging gardens of... Stand start on juggy hanging flake 3m Left of SR. Ascend jugs into mossy hanging corner. Stop when bored, filthy, soaking or scared. The jug horn up right is an obvious target.

V1 Boulder
5 Under Strain

Eliminate climbing the underside of the Straining Rail. No knee bars and no left hand use of flake (including the giant jug). Hard

V9 Boulder
6 Over Strained

Stand start with right hand only on the flake jug on Straining Rail. As per under strain no left hand use of the jug or flake making for a tricky sequence to finish up left.

V5 Boulder
7 Standing Strain

Stand start with both hands on jug on Straining Rail. Finish as per that problem.

V3 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 *** The Straining Rail

Sit start at base of slopey rail, head up and left. Don't forget to use your knees....hint, hint.

V7 Boulder
9 * Humpty Dumpty

Starting on the sloppy rail. Span to the right and finish via right facing horn to jug, dyno to jug or up left facing flake. All worthwhile.

FA: Nick Sutter

V8 Boulder 3m
10 The Long Road Home

Shoulder demolition factory! Climb HD into Positive Ape.

V9 Boulder
11 Permanent Psych

'Elevator door' stand start with the HD gaston right hand and left on the opposing gaston crimp. Technical moves up left trending flake to jug (horn and jug on right are out). From jug traverse left to finish as for SR using that problems undercling flake jug.

V5 Boulder
12 Positive Ape

As for PP but jug on flake and jug in roof all out. Huge move or diabolic horizontal cross through. Both pretty tough. Watch the landing!

V7 Boulder
13 Unknown 2

Stand start on the somewhat loose-ish block. Head straight up. Very easy moves between jugs. If the block/fridge comes free and you are under it you will be removed with a spatula and a bucket! Can be climbed from ground level at V2/3.

V0+ Boulder
14 Training the Untrainable

Ungrade-able horror (probably about 15 in the old scale!). Start the trench at ground level and butterfly jam, weep, rock gently in the corner towards the sunlight.

Boulder
15 ** Tough Love

Line of ring bolts (x 4) on left side of nose, front of buttress. STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT Start in middle of undercut bulge (as for No Schmecking and Here Come the Bastards), boulder out left (crux) to stance on sloping shelf, up keeping (more or less) on left of nose, up short slab to lower off.

FA: @sholloway,Amanda Holloway, 5th Feb

23 Sport 12m, 4
16 No Schmecking

Original description taken from VCC North West VIC guide. Start 3m right of Chain on the nose of the blank buttress. POOR PRO. Past fixed wire (you might call it that?!) left and up to ledge. Straight up wall delicately above. SHAKY PRO. New bolted routes (Tough Love and Here Come the Bastards) make this route pretty much obsolete, retro bolt with full permission from M.Law.

FA: Mike Law, Steve Howde

21 Trad 20m
17 * Here Come the Bastards

Might be 23? Start in middle of undercut bulge, front of buttress (same as for Tough Love and No Schmecking). STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT. Bouldery start straight up over bulge, (look for big pockets on right) to dynamic move to jug on left, stance on ledge then straight up the slab with fantastic incuts and pockets. Same lower off as for Tough Love. Enjoy.

FA: @sholloway,Amanda Holloway, 5th Feb

22 Sport 12m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 Tyranny and Mutation

Climb the short slab into the crack.

FA: Michael Woodrow and Co., 1992

18 Trad
19 Dominance and Submission

Climb the short overhang and then head upwards.

FA: Michael Woodrow and Co.

21 Trad
20 ** Lip Traverse

Traverse (Left to Right) the overhanging lip from a sit start. Hardest at the start.

V5 Boulder

1.1.2. Break like the wind 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.595689, -37.369676

Description:

This buttress/block has short sports climbs and high boulder problems.

Approach:

This is next buttress/block along the trail from Straining Rail Buttress. This is also where the trail splits; one trail heading up the hill to Omega Block and another trail heading down toward the Lower Tier.

Descent Notes:

Walk off the back of the boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Steel-plated Beanie

Sit start. Head straight up the middle of the wall to topout on jugs. Is easily protectable with a spotter on the rock, or, a steel-plated beanie.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2014

V3 Boulder 5m
2 Nightshade

A hard sit start with low undercling and crimp. If you can reach the good holds near lip from sit start then V4. From lip a few slopy moves to gain rib immediately right of tree and up to finish on jugs.

FA: @mrewi, 2014

V5 Boulder
3 Beginnings

Sit start on opposing side pulls (left crimp and right arete). Head up, toping out on jugs bigger than your mother's.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2014

V3 Boulder 7m
4 Break Like the Wind

Climb the flake.

Start left of arete and up face

FA: M Lama, H Singh-Dodd, R Pannell, 1992

12 Trad 8m
5 Scenester

The left arête of the downhill face of the Privy Block, 1FH to lower-off.

Start as for Break Like the Wind. Starts off small block, directly up left arete on small holds past FH (crux) to pocket and jugs to intermittent crack. Lower off above Low Life!

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil, 2014

18 Sport 8m, 2
6 * Low Life!

The middle of the downhill face of the Privy Block, 2 FHs to lower-off.

On front face of small pinnacle right beside walking track before track goes uphill to Omega Block. Starts of sharp flake / jug in middle of face, straight up on small crimps and mono pocket past 2 x fixed hangers.

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil, 2014

21 Sport 8m, 2
7 ** The Radness

Cos its rad! Sit start with awesome crimp rail and undercling or low pocket. Climb the line of pockets, slimps and crimps (jugs out left of arete out) to match jug crack up right. Probably V7 if you use big foot jug. Stand start goes at around V4/5 depending on what holds you use.

FA: Unknown

V8 Boulder
8 Lichen Spawn

Sit start with undercling and crimp. Head straight up the green runnel.

FA: Rob Cotton, 2015

V3 Boulder 5m
9 ** Release the koalas

Sit start with RH undercling and LH crimp. Make a challenging deadpoint into the seam out left before continuing up through some hugging and barndooring.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V6 Boulder 5m
10 Cave traverse

Sit start on jugs at back of cave. Traverse out and mantle to the right.

FA: Unknown

V1 Boulder 4m

1.1.3. Lower Tier 35 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.595924, -37.369244

Approach:

Follow the "Emergency Only" Trail west from the car park. When the Omega Block trail branches off up hill, continue straight for another 40m to reach the right side of Lower Tier. Routes are listed from the far end (Leaky Bucket area) to the end closest to the car park (Oxbow area).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Limbo 10 Trad 78m
2 Limbo Direct Finish 11 Unknown 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Open Project

Start at base of wall and traverse up and right to finish as per "Four Digits"

Boulder Project
4 Open project 2

Sit star with side pull, head up to under long and top out.

Boulder Project
5 Leaky Bucket

Stand start on crimpy dishes, big move to giant jug, then two committing sloper moves to top out. You can sit start the problem at the same grade.

FA: @jimmy_stephens, 2009

V2 Boulder 4m
6 Four digits

Sit start with opposing side pulls; one on arete and one on face. Head straight up.

FA: Rocot, 2015

V3 Boulder 4m
7 Arete

Sit start the arete with high crimp and left side pull. Don't use the chockstone to the right. Fun but contrived.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V2 Boulder 4m
8 Crouching Michael, Praying Mantle

Climb the chockstone. From good jugs, campus between good holds to mantle. Some might call this a bad landing and uninspiring moves... they would be right.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V3 Boulder 2m
9 A Soft Touch

Named because of the furry handholds! Starts 2m left of Grey Arete at the foot of the slab. Up right leading crack to overlap. Step up left onto slab below overhang. Up ramp to break overhang on the right almost joining Grey Arête before heading up and left to ledge.

FA: Rupert Freeman, Jerry Kupfer, 2002

12 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * Grey Arete

good beginner trad lead

10 Trad 32m
11 Biker Mice From Mars

Contrived. Up the wall between Grey Arete and Slut's Honour, placing gear on the left. At the ledge go directly over the ledge on the right where the boulder rests. Up right of the slab to the top.

FA: @wonderdog,Anthony Bishop, Julian Keane, 1994

18 Unknown 32m
12 * Slut's Honour

Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'. Has recently had additional bolts added. There are some natural pros for extra protection.

23 Sport 17m, 4
13 Slut's Alliance

Good link up. Original climbed SH to its fourth bolt then right (crux) to join Green Alliance below overlap. Several recent ascents have gained the overlap at undercling and traversed right to GA which provides great climbing at 23.

FA: 2004

24 Sport 18m, 6
14 The Green Alliance

Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.

25 Sport 15m
15 Sluts Have No Honour

Up the wall then moving right and up at the crux. One my first attempt to lead it I got crossed up while eye-balling the chains and fell. The top bolt (an unnecessary bolt IMO) wasn't there then and I took a big arc down to my belayer (Anthony Bishop). Whilst I was flushing out the adrenaline Matthew Brooks rapped down and bolted the fun out of it.n Got it easy second try...

FA: Michael Woodrow and Anthony Bishop

21 Sport 15m
16 A Dose of the Politicians 15 Trad 25m
17 Return of the Fush 9 Trad 20m
18 Silent Assassin / The Silent Assasin

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

22 Sport 20m, 2
19 * Unprofessional Conduct

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. May be run out.

21 Trad 20m
20 * Underseige

Originally started off the same ledge as 'No Joy', but has had a direct start added. Up the wall passing a bolt to break (gear), then up past three more bolts to chains.

23 Sport 12m, 4
21 No Joy 18 Trad 20m
22 Keystones / Wall R of No Joy

Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.

FA: Peter Stebbins, Matthew Brooks, 1991

17 to 18 Sport 10m, 2
23 Blind Sox

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up atete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

15 Trad 30m
24 * No Joy- State Of Shock link up 20 Unknown 20m
25 State of Shock

up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by ring bolt to rap station

Start: just left of poxbow under obvious corner

20 Mixed 25m, 2
26 Blind Justice

Pro is spaced, a fall before the small slot (small cam, medium nut) would probably be a grounder. Did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for me!

FA: Michael Woodrow and Ian Campbell

16 R Mixed 40m, 2
27 * Poxbow 17 Trad 30m
28 Sox Glo 16 Trad 29m
29 Split Images Variant

Appears to start up 'Split Images', cross through 'Law Enforcer' through the overlap and finishing up 'Poxbow' variant?

21 Mixed 20m, 3
30 * Split Images

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

16 Mixed 20m, 2
31 ** Law Enforcer

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Slit Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1991

19 Mixed 20m, 4
32 Oxbow

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

  1. 33m (6)

  2. 33m (6)

  3. 33m (6)

  4. 30m (6) Crux pitch!

6 Trad 130m 4
33 Dummy bidder

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

8 Trad 20m
34 Spit the dummy

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

5 Trad 20m
35 * One Hump or Two 12 Trad 75m 3

1.1.4. Outcrop below Black Magic 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 144.596030, -37.369587

Approach:

As for Witch (Omega Block). Walk down the cliffline from Boogie until you are directly below Black Magic

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Heat Seeker

Up to cave as for YW, but continue direct up a groove past a BR.

Start: Start as for YW.

FA: Matt Brooks, Chris Yeomans, 1991

21 Trad 15m
2 Young Warriors

Groove to cave, R to chimney and up it. Swing L out of chimney beneath loose blocks over roof/arete, then up face.

Start: Start below and a bit L of chimney.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, Peter Stebbins, 1991

20 Trad 16m
3 War Front

Looks dirty.

Start: Start to the R of the chimney.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, Peter Stebbins, 1991

18 Trad 15m

1.1.5. Omega Block 57 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.596172, -37.369510

Approach:

Routes from Hawker to Broomstick start from an uneven ledgy area above an 8-10m lower clifflet. Several people have stuffed up and taken the plummet. Take care, and stick clip 1st bolts.

Descent Notes:

Most routes have lower-offs, otherwise scramble carefully down the back of the block (about 15m R of Witch).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hawker

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst, 1968

7 Trad 15m
2 Size Matters

Start as for "Good Things" and climb direct past 2FH. Move left to "Wee Ripper" anchors.

FA: Ian Boorman, 2013

18 Sport 8m, 3
3 Good Things Come in Small Packages

Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper. Somewhat usurped by LM but worthwhile. Adds 4m to Wee Ripper. Thin moves Diagonally past RB bring jugs on WR to hand. Finish up the original. Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper

FA: Mark Atkinson, Mark Rewi, 2012

18 Sport 12m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Wee Ripper

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

FA: Joy Fletcher. 1990s?, 1982

17 Sport 12m, 2
5 An Evil Brew

Cruxy.

Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1990

20 Mixed 12m, 1
6 ** Powder Hound

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'. Up wall for 3m then diag R across Black Magic to Bloodline, up this for 2m then diag R to diagonal crack. Up crack and go R around bulges. Up a little to horizontal break which leads R to final blunt arete. Probably all bolts once you hit Bloodline.

FA: Mike Law,Chris Baxter. Early 80s?, 1982

21 Trad 30m
7 Black Magic

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

FA: Calvin Ho, 1968

15 R Trad 20m
8 * Lola V

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware. Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings, or an even better option is to step R again to join the LH of Satan past it's last bolt.

FA: Mike Law,early 80s?, 1982

22 Sport 15m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 * Bloodline

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves!

Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

FA: Andrew Thompson, Greg Child (with 1 bolt!), 1978

23 Sport 20m
10 ** Methotrexate

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 3rd bolt on Bop till You Drop. Down and down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick.

FA: @mikllaw, 1981

25 Sport 25m
11 ** The Left Hand of Satan / Unnamed

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SVs start at the same grade.

FA: Reuben Bennett-Daly, 2003

27 Sport 15m, 4
12 * What Lies Beneath

Completes the trilogy of excellent girdles on the left wall. Taking in the cruxes of most of the routes and requiring rope trickery and an attentive belayer to guarantee the safety of your ankles this is unlikely to gain too much attention... certainly not a route for a busy weekend! Start at Left Hand of Satan then very thin moves to gain the sloper and traverse on Satanic Verses until the large pocket. Easier moves right via Bop and Bewitched to gain the jugs on Broomstick at its third clip. Soak up the lactic and continue the charge right via Hollow Screams Original crux to finish up Boogie or Boogie RHV.

FA: @mrewi

28 Sport 30m
13 * Between Good and Evil

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and optional #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor. Crux hold damaged but has been repeated since.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2014

28 Sport 18m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 ** Satanic Verses (Direct)

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.

27 Sport 25m
15 ** Satanic Verses

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming!

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

26 Sport 25m
16 ** Satan said Dance

Start up Bop for 2 bolts, move left and finish up 'Satanic Verses' Direct. Probably 26 (easier than SV original and HS original), but very nice. Traversing left higher (above the large pocket on SV) is an excellent and more sustained variant at 26.

FA: Alistair Robertson, 2000

26 Sport 20m
17 ** Bop Till You Drop

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

25 Sport 22m
18 * Bewitched

Another good route, this time just slightly harder than 'Broomstick', although the crux is still the bouldery start!

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1993

24 Sport 21m
19 ** The Broomstick / Broomstick

Bouldery 24. desperate

FA: Mike Law, 1979

23 Sport 21m
20 * Voodoo People / Broomstick RHV

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals.

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick' then up right and direct through scoop via RBs and optional #2 camalot to DBB. Rebolted 2015.

FA: A bit of a group effort through the late noughties!, 2000

24 Sport 22m
21 Depravity

Another link up for when you have finished the rest. Climb Broomstick to jugs. Extend third bolt then traverse right to join the crux of HS original. Once through the difficulties finish as per Boogie RHV. More sustained than HS original.

26 Sport 20m
22 The Howling Eliminate (Closed Project)

Surely the last (almost) independent line on this cliff?! Hard start off block immediately below camouflaged ring to boulder hanging arete and corner between Broomstick and Hollow Screams. From first jug near top of corner push back right past second ring to climb direct to the poor stance at the Hollow Screams 'half moon' jug (the big jug rests out left on broomstick and at the stance are both out). Finish via Hollow Screams original 26 crux.

Set by @mrewi

28 Sport Project 18m
23 ** Hollow Screams Direct

The hardest route around 'Melbourne'.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder. 29 if climbed direct but some will succumb to temptation to rest up right in the scoop or on the jugs out left at the same level, both of which are probably 28.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1999

28 to 29 Sport 22m
24 * Boogie- Broomstick link up / Boogie into Broomstick

Meant to be ok.

Start: Start as for Boogie and traverse left across scoop to join broomstick. Has also been climbed diagonally up left from hollow screams to join Voodoo People at the scoop. Excellent sustained 23 though a little run out.

FA: Nick Taylor early 80s, 2000

23 Sport 20m
25 * Hollow Screams Original / Boogie LHV / Boogie Direct

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP. Crux bolt replaced 2015 after the original glue in started to move!

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

26 Sport 20m
26 * (Unnamed) 21 Unknown 21m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 *** Boogie 'til You Puke

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft. early 80s, 2000

21 Sport 25m, 6
28 Boogie RHV / Boogie into Witch LHF

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2000

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2005

23 Sport 20m
29 ** Warlock

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

20 Mixed 35m, 3
30 ** Witch / Witch Direct Start

An area 'classic'. Victoria's first 17, with a crux arguably deserving of at least a grade harder than that. Steep but juggy start as for 'Wishful thinking', then up the obvious crack all the way to the top.

This direct start is now the standard way to do the climb, but 'Witch Original Start' started as for 'Romulus' and traversed across left to the crack.

FA: John Fahey,Peter Jackson, 22nd Apr

17 Trad 21m
31 Witch Left Variant Finish / Witch LHF

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

23 Unknown 7m
32 Witch Right Variant Finish / Witch RHF 21 Unknown 8m
33 * Wishful Thinking

Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft, 1982

16 Mixed 21m, 1
34 Witch Original Start

The way 'Witch' was originally climbed started as for 'Romulus' and moved left into the crack. Now superseded by the direct start.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 22nd Apr

17 Trad 21m
35 Time Child

Start up 'Romulus', moving left to clip bolt on 'Wishful Thinking', then up right past a crack.

18 Trad 20m
36 Romulus

FA: Peter Jackson and Steve Craddock, 1962

10 Trad 12m
37 Remus

FA: Steve Craddock and Peter Jackson, 1962

8 Trad 12m
38 Spellbound

Start off boulders under the single high carrot bolt.

May need a good brushing as the lichen and moss has reclaimed most of it.

19 Mixed 10m, 1
39 Gun Club 14 Trad 10m
40 Sze 12 Trad 15m
41 Humping the Camel

Straight up the wall between 'Sze' and 'Drain Pipes'.

9 Trad 18m
42 Drain Pipes 8 Trad 18m
43 Jugs and jury

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

5 Trad 16m
44 Next to Impossible 18 Unknown 18m
45 Impossible 18 Unknown 18m
46 Tyranny and Mutation 18 Unknown 16m
47 Cultasaurous Erectus 20 Unknown 16m
48 * Dominance and Submission 21 Unknown 18m
49 As Beautiful As A Foot 9 Unknown 10m
50 Pockets 10 Unknown 10m
51 Blue Oyster Wall 14 Unknown 10m
52 Career of Evil 20 Unknown 20m
53 Nosferatu 14 Unknown 10m
54 XTCherie 11 Unknown 10m
55 Thundering Guns

Bouldery wall L of HS, 2BRs.

Start: Start 2m L of HS.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1991

24 Trad 10m
56 Boogie 'til You Puke RHF

It's hard to see how this is any different to Boogie.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

23 Sport 18m
57 First Touch

Almost not worth recording as it's been almost completely superseded. Then again, many 'Melbourne' locals will probably become desperate enough to do it at some point.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Paul Cuthbert, 1994

21 Sport 25m

1.1.6. Gully behind Omega 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.596342, -37.369642

Description:

Refer to Privy Block

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Straining Rail 12 Unknown 20m
2 Too Humped to Pump 18 Unknown
3 Chain 19 Unknown 20m
4 No Schmecking

Refer to Privy Block

21 Unknown 20m
5 * John 19 Unknown 20m
6 S-Bend 15 Unknown 20m
7 The Snatch 18 Unknown
8 ** From Her To Eternity

FA: Michael Woodrow

22 Unknown 14m

1.2. Trackside Boulders 21 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 144.597192, -37.368248

Description:

Multiple boulders along walking track or a little up into bush.

Approach:

Take MRWT walking track down from small car park on Mount Macedon Rd about 200m north of the Cameron Drive/Memorial Cross turnoff. Numerous boulders can be found on the left side of the track, some slightly uphill into the bush.

This track is about 1.6km long and runs around the north side of Camel's Hump, eventually coming to the main car park on Cameron Drive.

History:

Almost certainly not first ascents. Just getting them up and documented. Feel free to post history and I'll amend.

1.2.1. Snot Blok 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 144.598775, -37.368269

Description:

Large boulder approx 150m ENE of Monolith Boulder.

Approach:

400m down the walking track from the Mount Macedon Rd end, it becomes slightly less steep and a small boulder can be seen on the left with several trees growing pushed up against its right side. Head up the hill past this boulder in a SW direction for 75m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gone Fishing

Sit start out of the wombat hole on sharp edges (left one well left under fallen tree... if you start on the 2 close edges take a grade off). Hard moves up and slightly right via sharp crimps to exit left of nose goblin (you never make it as far right as the slope). The left hand lip of the boulder is also out.

V6 Boulder 3m
2 Nose Goblin Direct

Low sit start 1.5m left of NG jugs at poor left hand slimp and obvious flat cut edge for right (if starting with the incut crimp on right hand give yourself solid V4). Hard moves via sharp crimps to gain the LHV of NG. Jugs on standard start out for feet also.

V6 Boulder
3 ** Nose Goblin

Sit start as per Boogers. Up and left via crimps or direct via sloper/right hand side pull (easier). Good problem.

V4 Boulder 5m
4 Boogers Direct

Start as for Boogers but instead of moving right muscle up through runnel gastoning slopes either side.

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 ** Boogers

Sit start matched on jug. Move right, then up laying off sloping rails and crimps.

V4 Boulder 3m
6 Loogie

Sit start, traverse left under overhang on good holds, then up.

V1 Boulder 3m
7 Snot

Sit start up over bulge using many jugs

V0 Boulder 3m

1.2.2. Thin Face 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 144.597921, -37.367448

Description:

Warm-up lines on fun low boulder.

Approach:

550m down the walking track from the Mount Macedon Rd end, a small boulder will be visible close to the track on the left. Thin Face boulder is just behind that boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sucker Punch

SDS on crimps up to a one-move-wonder to the high edge.

V1 Boulder 3m

1.2.3. Tower du Warm-up 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 144.597439, -37.367389

Description:

Probably the best warm-up boulder around (after a brush and lots of traffic).

Approach:

Large boulder 600m down the walking track from the Mount Macedon Rd end, easily visible to the left of the track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tour du Tower

Stand start at near the decent tree, and traverse the entire boulder. About the same grade regardless of height above the ground.

VB Boulder 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Eastern Face

Beautiful, easy face.

VB Boulder 7m
3 Northern Face

SDS with pockets, head up with some big moves between great holds.

V1 Boulder 7m
4 Northern Runnel

Stand start and climb the short face into the runnel.

VB Boulder 7m
5 North-Eastern Arete

Stand start with good holds, climb the wide arete.

VB Boulder 6m
6 Western face

Stand start with good edges, climb the face.

VB Boulder 5m
7 So-called crack

Stand start below the so-called crack-like thingy.

VB Boulder 4m

1.2.4. Globe Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 144.596257, -37.368254

Description:

Big boulder with multiple lines.

Approach:

Large boulder 750m down the walking track from the Mount Macedon Rd end, easily visible to the left of the track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fran the fruit cake

SDS the face on the southern side of the boulder (3m left of Sally the slapper).

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V0 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Sally the slapper

SDS with obvious jug (RH) and crimp (LH). Slap up and right to good holds around the arete.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V1 Boulder 3m
3 * Kathy the Krusher

SDS

V1 Boulder 3m
4 *** Gérard Depardieu

SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge.

Boulder Project 3m
5 Open Project

SDS with minuscule undercling and crimp. Imagine your way through the overhang and onto the jugs.

Looks pretty damn hard. An open project for the ambitious!

Boulder Project 3m
6 * BDSM

Around the right side of the boulder facing uphill.

Easy stand start. SDS goes at about V3.

V0 Boulder 3m

1.3. Northern Sector 15 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 144.597298, -37.369167

Description:

An area with a decent amount of bouldering, but which is still being developed. Bring some psyche and lend a hand!

Approach:

Approach by following the trail from Lower Tier (Omega Block area) around the corner. The area is about 100m past Lower Tier, with the boulders scattered both up and down the hill.

1.3.1. Baguette Block 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 144.596889, -37.369371

Description:

Block just uphill and west of "Ordinary Men Boulder". Attached to the main rock wall, and has a nice flat landing pad at its base.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Baguette

Unassumingly good. Stand start on in the crack. Follow the crack leftwards until it forks, whereupon follow the crack and face upwards.

FA: Yann Joubert, 2015

V0 Boulder 5m

1.3.2. Ordinary Men Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 144.597114, -37.369276

Description:

High ball boulder; with a number of good, low ball problems on the southern side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ordinary Men

Sit start at jug on right arete. Traverse leftwards staying below the top. Either finish on the cheater stone (V2) or make the big moves to finish on the left arete (V3).

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V3 Boulder 6m
2 Ordinary Arete

Start on the same jug as "Ordinary Men", and head straight up the left side of the arete.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V2 Boulder 2m
3 Pockets

Sit start with underclings on the large pockets in the middle of the face. Head straight up.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V1 Boulder 2m

1.3.3. Simple Things Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

Short boulder chokers with big pockets

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 All The Simple Things

Climb the pockets from a sit start.

FA: Levi Schmidt, 2015

VB- Boulder 3m

1.3.4. The Monolith Boulder 10 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 144.597352, -37.368726

Description:

One of the highest and most beautiful boulders in the area. The northern side has a number of easy highball slabs, the western face has some moderate highball faces, and the eastern/south face have short, powerful climbs.

Approach:

Approach via the Lower Tier. From the far left end of the Lower Tier, follow the path, traversing about 100m around the contour line of the hill. At this point, both Ordinary Men Boulder and The Monolith Boulder should come into view - OMB above the path and up the hill to the right, and TMB below the path and down the hill to the slight left. TMB will most likely not be recognisable until you are closer though, as it has more rocks surrounding it.

History:

Discovered by Cameron Rodda in 2000 and written up in the NW Victoria guidebook as "T-Bone Totem", with very little information given, and only two very easy routes described, it's no surprise that it sat neglected for the next 15 years before being rediscovered in 2015 with much more of an eye for bouldering routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Candy Mountain

Climb the high slab on the left.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

VB- Boulder 7m
2 Charlie the Unicorn

Climb the centre of the highball slab on good holds.

FA: Rob Cotton, 2015

VB- Boulder 7m
3 The Magical Liopleurodon

Start just right of the arete and head up the highball slab. Easy climbing on good holds. Possibly the same route as 'Flintstones Do The Hump'?

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

VB- Boulder 7m
4 Flintstones Do The Hump

The right hand side of the northern, slabby side, just left of 'Arete'. Up to the ledge, then up water groove to top. (Originally graded 7, but was soloed, so changed to bouldering grades.)

FA: Cameron Rodda, 2000

VB- Boulder 11m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Arete

Climb the high arete. SDS and avoid temptation to step left on ledge.

V1 Boulder
6 Monolith SDS

Eliminate independent of arête and any holds left of seam below. Pretty goey.

V6 Boulder
7 *** The Monolith

Climb the beautiful highball face. Stand start with opposing sidepulls and head up through crimps and underclings. At the roof, head out left. A classic highball. SDS using arête worthwhile at same grade. A route through the roof is inviting...

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V4 Boulder 8m
8 * Fridge Hugger

Climb the refrigerator to either bail onto the chockstone or head up the exciting headwall.

Sit start goes at V1. Stand V0. Try to avoid using the chockstone on right on lower part of climb.

FA: @steveduggan, 2015

V1 Boulder 5m
9 Double Fisted Pleasure Punch

To the right of 'Fridge Hugger', with horizontal crack 2m up. (Originally graded 6, but was soloed, so changed to bouldering grades.)

FA: Cameron Rodda, 2000

VB- Boulder 9m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Mono-crack

The crack around the back. Sit start on the sloping platform below the crack, using feet on the wall only, no standing on the platform. Up on crimps to the hand jam, then easily top out.

FA: @dscarlett, 17th Jan

V0 Boulder 3m

1.4. Eastern Outcrops 77 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.598495, -37.369268

Description:

Go through the town of Mt Macedon and continue for about another 3km.

About 20m past the turn off to the memorial cross, park at the turnoff to the Sanatorium Lake picnic area on the R.

Walk back across the Mt Macedon Rd and follow a faint path past a quarry to the cliff.

Approach:

Direct path to quarry can be difficult to find these days as there are lots of fallen trees and thick ferns and bracken. Alternatively, follow walking track for 70m from the gate. Pass the "Walking Trail" sign at about 50m and 20m past this on the left, at a thicket of trees is a cairn. Head straight off the path at right angles and follow the line of cairns through the trees and up the hill for about 3 minutes to the quarry.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Deep Throat, Moist Lungs 17 Unknown 8m
2 Pock 14 Unknown 8m
3 Who Ya Waving To? 16 Unknown 9m
4 Who Ya Waving To? Direct Start 16 Unknown 4m
5 Athena 6 Unknown 12m
6 Narcissus 8 Unknown 13m
7 Aratus 10 Unknown 14m
8 Honeycomb Hangover 18 Unknown 15m
9 White Ant Wall 19 Unknown 15m
10 Fats All Round 15 Unknown 18m
11 Hazy Shade of Winter 17 Unknown 18m
12 Hermes 10 Unknown 23m
13 Prometheus Direct 11 Unknown 24m
14 Prometheus 8 Unknown 40m
15 Borrowed Manuscripts / Prometheus Direct Finish 16 Unknown 25m
16 Stele 4 Unknown 12m
17 Kremen of the Space Patrol 7 Unknown 20m
18 Keres 8 Unknown 21m
19 A-Two 3 Unknown 15m
20 The Gymnast 8 Unknown 7m
21 Pellet 12 Unknown 7m
22 D2 7 Unknown 12m
23 H2 6 Unknown 18m
24 H3 6 Unknown 18m
25 S 6 Unknown 18m
26 B 5 Unknown 18m
27 Revenge of the Moths 18 Unknown 12m
28 A Change in the Weather 19 Unknown 18m
29 Silent Steel 20 Unknown 12m
30 Tip Toe 19 Unknown 12m
31 Geboor 19 Unknown 30m

1.4.1. Barringo Tower 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 144.598957, -37.369597

Description:

Immediately right of the quarry is a small tower with the first climbs

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hellas

The thrutchy crack on the left side of the tower.

FA: John Griffiths, Max Keating, 1982

4 Trad 22m
2 Anabasis

The rib right of Hellas and left of the cracks on the front of the tower.

FA: John Griffiths,Max Keating, 1982

7 Trad 25m
3 Hestia

The left crack on the front of the tower.

FA: Max Keating, John Griffiths, 1982

7 Trad 25m
4 Galerias

The rib in the middle of the face. Finish up right crack.

FA: John Griffiths, Max Keating, Ken McKinlay, 1982

3 Trad 30m

1.4.2. Melbourne View Buttress 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.598721, -37.369358

Approach:

Approximately 20m right of Barringo Tower there is a white gum tree in a gully. Go up past this (some prefer to traverse right at the gum tree into the next gully) to the white gum tree at the very top of the gully. Gumslinger starts here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gumslinger 18 Unknown 7m
2 A Rook 18 Unknown 7m
3 A Knight 18 Unknown 8m
4 Pnyx

The diagonal left grassy chimney.

FA: John Griffiths, 1982

6 Trad 12m
5 Styx

As for Pynx, the mossy middle chimney.

FA: John Griffiths, 1982

5 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Russell 1 15 Trad 18m
7 Arcadia

The obvious crack/trench 5m right of Styx

FA: Max Keating, Ken McKinlay, 1982

6 Trad 20m
8 * Space Jugging

If walking from the small, fire trail parking area on Mount Macedon Rd (300m north of the C328/Memorial Cross turnoff), the "Melbourne Views" buttress that contains Space Jugging will be one of the first you reach, and is just past the quarry. Look for a large pile of rockfall reaching down to the base of the rocks, and walk up to the left of it to reach Melbourne View Buttress, which starts half way up the cliff.

Alternatively, from the summit access track, continue past the fenced lookout for about 75m, until just before the track ends and turns to a rocky scramble. Turn off to the right of the track and head NE for ~60m, tending right when you see the white gum tree (which grows from the base of the cliff, next to Gumslinger) to get to the access gully rather than the top of the cliff.

Space Jugging starts at the overhanging, juggy crack left of the left arete. Up and slightly right to a carrot bolt, then follow the jugs up the arete past another bolt.

FA: Andrew Stevens,MacKenzie Usher, 1988

15 Mixed 20m, 2
9 Excuse Me While I Touch the Sky 20 Mixed 20m, 1
10 Arachnophobia

FA: John Griffths

5 Trad 30m

1.4.3. Xeres 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.598975, -37.369275

Description:

This area consists of the lower tiers which are found just past Barringo Tower, with Gutter Talk etc on it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dance of the Curates
  1. 30m. A groove on the wall facing the road, to the ledge. Left on ledges to a crack. Up this, then easily to below a ridge.

  2. 40m. Go halfway up ridge, step right to finish up the crack.

FA: John Griffiths,Max Keating,Ken McKinlay, 1982

8 Trad 70m 2
2 Gutter Talk 18 Unknown 8m
3 Down the Gurgler 17 Unknown 8m
4 Lawyers in Love 14 Unknown 20m
5 Notes on Pillows 13 Unknown 20m

1.4.4. Back Wall 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.597994, -37.369218

Description:

Unloved for years, some recent rebolting has seen a bit more interest of late. The cliff now sports plenty of shiny stainless at low grades.

Approach:

If climbing at the Lower Tier below Omega Block, the suggested approach is as follows:

From 'Grey Arete', continue walking away from the carpark along a series of vague pads, trending vaguely upwards. A very large fallen tree soon points down the slope, skirt this on the uphill side. From the top of the tree, continue slightly upwards (cairns may be visible). The pad now continues up and across the hill onto a more level area; the crag is hidden in the trees facing towards you on the left as you face uphill.

Alternative approach if coming straight from the carpark. Follow the tourist track towards Camels Hump summit, turn left on good path marked 'Danger Cliff Face' after 50ish metres down this track at a saddle (This saddle is easily reached from the other direction by scrambling up from omega block) turn right and head off the track. Initially go downhill and right then keep the outcrops above you immediately on your right. Follow this for 100m to the 50m long 20m high vertical cliff that is the Back Wall.

Descent Notes:

There are double bolt anchors at the top of many climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Friction Modified

Hard, short. Single bolt on the left hand end of the 'Rev Head' block. WARNING: Dodgy stainless bash-in bolt failed Feb 2016. Has not yet been replaced.

18 Sport 8m, 1
2 Pocket Rocket

More thinness. Single bolt up the middle of the 'Rev Head' block. Bolt is a stainless bash-in carrot, but is angled upwards and appears to be fairly secure. Still, trust it at your own risk.

18 Sport 8m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Rev Head

The 24 you need when you're feeling down. Soft.

1FH & 1BR up the arete. Trad anchor. Rebolted Jan 2016.

24 Sport 8m, 2
4 Waning Crescent

15m left of the Locris trench, between the short arete (Rev Head) and another trench (Human Hex) is a slightly overhanging, blunt arete with a boulder under it. Onto the boulder, then up the steep section directly over the two FHs, on crimps and good side-pulls. After the 2nd FH, move slightly left to where the left hand crack briefly opens enough to take gear. A fist-sized hex or Camalot #3-4 sized cam is strongly advised here. Reach left to large, flat hand ledge, then continue across and pull up around left of protrusion above. Easy finish, trad anchor. Walk off to rappel from anchors above Skippy or One For the Masses. Highly enjoyable, and would be worth a star if not for its contrived attempts to avoid easier climbing.

FA: @dscarlett, 12th Jan

16 Mixed 15m, 2
5 Waning Motivation

As for 'Waning Crescent', but climb to the left of the bolts and/or continue straight upwards after the big hex or cam placement rather than moving left. To be regarded as a piker's variant, and written up only to discourage people from cheating as such.

FA: @dscarlett, 12th Jan

15 Mixed 15m, 2
6 Human Hex

The chimney right of 'Rev Head'.

4 Trad 10m
7 Oh Fuck

The arête 1m right of the 'Human Hex' chimney. Negligible pro.

FA: Robin Holmes, 1999

13 R Trad 10m
8 Shod

2 meters left of 'News From Home'. Up the groove.

13 Unknown 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 News From Home

About 12m right of 'Human Hex' or 4m left of 'Summer Breeze'. Onto a bollard, up past a rusty carrot bolt at 8m to a niche. Out right to finish up crack. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear, or bolts above 'Skippy' are about 3m away.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 1989

15 Mixed 20m, 1
10 Summer Breeze

Left most line of 4FHs to crack (mid/large wires if you're worried) and up right to shared double U anchor.

15 Sport 15m, 4
11 Gary's groove

1 metre right of 'Summer Breeze', 5 bolts with a balancy start up to DBB. Crack at the top takes a cam around Camalot #2 size if you'd like to avoid the very slightly runout finish. Make sure to extend anchor if toproping.

15 Sport 15m, 5
12 Skippy

Third line of bolts from the left. Up to either original bolts (2 FH with rappel rings) over the lip, or step right to anchor on 'Undertow'.

FA: James McIntosh, Melanie Taws, 1988

13 Sport 25m, 5
13 Brian Boru

Line with single bolt in the middle of the sport routes, up to DBB on right.

14 R Mixed 24m, 1
14 Undertow

Undercut start on arete past 4 FH to DBB anchor as for 'Brian Boru'.

FA: @mrewi, 2014

16 Sport 15m, 4
15 Locris / L

The trench. Marked with a square and an 'L' on the left side at the base.

3 Trad 24m
16 * Tie The Knot

Start for 'Anthony's Arete'. Up for 2 bolts then step over the trench of 'Locris'. 4 more bolts to anchor.

FA: Phil Aarons, 2014

12 Sport 18m, 6
17 Anthony's Arete

Start on the right arete of 'Locris', and follow it up the slab. Take trad gear for the top if you'd be uncomfortable with a easy climbing through a 4-5m runout between the last bolt and the anchors.

FA: Liam Aarons, 2014

9 Sport 20m, 4
18 One For The Masses

Starts 3m right of the trench ('Locris'). Follow the FH, then up to anchor. Bonus large wires or slings if you don't like runout finishes.

FA: @mrewi, 2007

14 Sport 20m, 4
19 Owen Glyndower

Shallow groove just above right side of small cave 5m right of 'Locris'.

FA: @armstp,Jerry Maddox, 1989

14 Mixed 24m, 1
20 Tobin Brothers

The cleanest section of wall 10m right of 'Locris'. Retrobolted in 2016 at the request of the first ascensionist. Rap station descent.

FA: James McIntosh, Melanie Taws, 1988

12 Sport 18m, 5
21 Prod

5m right of 'Tobin Brothers'. No protection until after the crux.

13 Trad 23m
22 Digger

Start 7m left of Rap Until You Crap. Climb obvious right leaning chunky flake crack. Step right 2m and climb steep red overhang off block. Mossy finish. Number 0 BD micro cam is pretty handy for the top.

FFA: @lewisclarey,@angelonanos, 2015

15 Trad 20m
23 Rap Till You Crap

Originally written up as: "Start at the buttress at the extreme right of the cliff (right of the caves). Hard start then easier up the middle of the buttress."

Location unclear, and even the FA doesn't remember where it is, except to add that the start is undercut. Possibly the orange arête at the right end of the caves?

FA: James McIntosh,Melanie Taws, 1988

19 Trad 15m

1.4.5. The Gatehouse 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Three boulders come together to make a narrow passageway and some excellent bouldering. Descend the boulders via the chimney in the narrow passage way.

Approach:

Follow the path to the Back Wall. Where the path leads up to the Back Wall, keep walking ~100m down hill to the north-east from the back wall. Can't miss the boulders and cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Nonplus panacea

Stand start with good crimps. Move up through some good crimps and great moves. Top out slightly to the left.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2016

V4 Boulder 8m
2 ** Ego Tripping at the Gates of Hell

Stand start with right-facing side pull. Move up and slightly left. Don't forget to top out.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V3 Boulder 8m
3 * Devil's in the Details

Stand start in a elevator door move (two gastons). Think 'stick' and throw up to the jugs and top out.

The green block to the left is out.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V5 Boulder 6m
4 *** Moamyn's Manual

Start standing up into the sloping scoop. Grab the tiny crimps and learn to fly.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2016

V6 Boulder 7m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 A-Two Unknown 15m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Galerias Trad 30m 1.4.1. Barringo Tower
Locris Trad 24m 1.4.4. Back Wall
VB- All The Simple Things Boulder 3m 1.3.3. Simple Things Boulder
Candy Mountain Boulder 7m 1.3.4. The Monolith Boulder
Charlie the Unicorn Boulder 7m 1.3.4. The Monolith Boulder
Double Fisted Pleasure Punch Boulder 9m 1.3.4. The Monolith Boulder
Flintstones Do The Hump Boulder 11m 1.3.4. The Monolith Boulder
The Magical Liopleurodon Boulder 7m 1.3.4. The Monolith Boulder
4 Stele Unknown 12m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Hellas Trad 22m 1.4.1. Barringo Tower
Human Hex Trad 10m 1.4.4. Back Wall
5 Spit the dummy Trad 20m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Jugs and jury Trad 16m 1.1.5. Omega Block
B Unknown 18m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Arachnophobia Trad 30m 1.4.2. Melbourne View Buttress
Styx Trad 12m 1.4.2. Melbourne View Buttress
6 Oxbow Trad 130m 4 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Athena Unknown 12m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
H2 Unknown 18m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
H3 Unknown 18m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
S Unknown 18m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Arcadia Trad 20m 1.4.2. Melbourne View Buttress
Pnyx Trad 12m 1.4.2. Melbourne View Buttress
7 Hawker Trad 15m 1.1.5. Omega Block
D2 Unknown 12m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Kremen of the Space Patrol Unknown 20m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Anabasis Trad 25m 1.4.1. Barringo Tower
Hestia Trad 25m 1.4.1. Barringo Tower
VB Eastern Face Boulder 7m 1.2.3. Tower du Warm-up
North-Eastern Arete Boulder 6m 1.2.3. Tower du Warm-up
Northern Runnel Boulder 7m 1.2.3. Tower du Warm-up
So-called crack Boulder 4m 1.2.3. Tower du Warm-up
Tour du Tower Boulder 15m 1.2.3. Tower du Warm-up
Western face Boulder 5m 1.2.3. Tower du Warm-up
8 Dummy bidder Trad 20m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Drain Pipes Trad 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Remus Trad 12m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Keres Unknown 21m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Narcissus Unknown 13m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Prometheus Unknown 40m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
The Gymnast Unknown 7m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Dance of the Curates Trad 70m 2 1.4.3. Xeres
9 Return of the Fush Trad 20m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
As Beautiful As A Foot Unknown 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Humping the Camel Trad 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Anthony's Arete Sport 20m, 4 1.4.4. Back Wall
10 * Grey Arete Trad 32m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Limbo Trad 78m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Pockets Unknown 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Romulus Trad 12m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Aratus Unknown 14m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Hermes Unknown 23m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
11 Limbo Direct Finish Unknown 30m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
XTCherie Unknown 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Prometheus Direct Unknown 24m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
12 Break Like the Wind Trad 8m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
A Soft Touch Trad 25m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* One Hump or Two Trad 75m 3 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Sze Trad 15m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Straining Rail Unknown 20m 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
Pellet Unknown 7m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
* Tie The Knot Sport 18m, 6 1.4.4. Back Wall
Tobin Brothers Sport 18m, 5 1.4.4. Back Wall
13 Notes on Pillows Unknown 20m 1.4.3. Xeres
Prod Trad 23m 1.4.4. Back Wall
Shod Unknown 12m 1.4.4. Back Wall
Skippy Sport 25m, 5 1.4.4. Back Wall
13 R Oh Fuck Trad 10m 1.4.4. Back Wall
14 Blue Oyster Wall Unknown 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Gun Club Trad 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Nosferatu Unknown 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Pock Unknown 8m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Lawyers in Love Unknown 20m 1.4.3. Xeres
One For The Masses Sport 20m, 4 1.4.4. Back Wall
Owen Glyndower Mixed 24m, 1 1.4.4. Back Wall
14 R Brian Boru Mixed 24m, 1 1.4.4. Back Wall
15 A Dose of the Politicians Trad 25m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Blind Sox Trad 30m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
S-Bend Unknown 20m 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
Fats All Round Unknown 18m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Russell 1 Trad 18m 1.4.2. Melbourne View Buttress
* Space Jugging Mixed 20m, 2 1.4.2. Melbourne View Buttress
Digger Trad 20m 1.4.4. Back Wall
Gary's groove Sport 15m, 5 1.4.4. Back Wall
News From Home Mixed 20m, 1 1.4.4. Back Wall
Summer Breeze Sport 15m, 4 1.4.4. Back Wall
Waning Motivation Mixed 15m, 2 1.4.4. Back Wall
15 R Black Magic Trad 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
V0 Snot Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Snot Blok
* BDSM Boulder 3m 1.2.4. Globe Boulder
Fran the fruit cake Boulder 3m 1.2.4. Globe Boulder
Baguette Boulder 5m 1.3.1. Baguette Block
Mono-crack Boulder 3m 1.3.4. The Monolith Boulder
16 Sox Glo Trad 29m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Split Images Mixed 20m, 2 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Wishful Thinking Mixed 21m, 1 1.1.5. Omega Block
Borrowed Manuscripts Unknown 25m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Who Ya Waving To? Unknown 9m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Who Ya Waving To? Direct Start Unknown 4m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Undertow Sport 15m, 4 1.4.4. Back Wall
Waning Crescent Mixed 15m, 2 1.4.4. Back Wall
16 R Blind Justice Mixed 40m, 2 1.1.3. Lower Tier
17 * Poxbow Trad 30m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Wee Ripper Sport 12m, 2 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Witch Trad 21m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Witch Original Start Trad 21m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Deep Throat, Moist Lungs Unknown 8m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Hazy Shade of Winter Unknown 18m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Down the Gurgler Unknown 8m 1.4.3. Xeres
17 to 18 Keystones Sport 10m, 2 1.1.3. Lower Tier
V0+ Unknown 2 Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
18 Tyranny and Mutation Trad 1.1.1. Privy Block
Scenester Sport 8m, 2 1.1.2. Break like the wind
Biker Mice From Mars Unknown 32m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
No Joy Trad 20m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
War Front Trad 15m 1.1.4. Outcrop below Black Magic
Good Things Come in Small Packages Sport 12m, 3 1.1.5. Omega Block
Impossible Unknown 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Next to Impossible Unknown 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Size Matters Sport 8m, 3 1.1.5. Omega Block
Time Child Trad 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Tyranny and Mutation Unknown 16m 1.1.5. Omega Block
The Snatch Unknown 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
Too Humped to Pump Unknown 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
Honeycomb Hangover Unknown 15m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Revenge of the Moths Unknown 12m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
A Knight Unknown 8m 1.4.2. Melbourne View Buttress
A Rook Unknown 7m 1.4.2. Melbourne View Buttress
Gumslinger Unknown 7m 1.4.2. Melbourne View Buttress
Gutter Talk Unknown 8m 1.4.3. Xeres
Friction Modified Sport 8m, 1 1.4.4. Back Wall
Pocket Rocket Sport 8m, 1 1.4.4. Back Wall
19 ** Law Enforcer Mixed 20m, 4 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Spellbound Mixed 10m, 1 1.1.5. Omega Block
Chain Unknown 20m 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
* John Unknown 20m 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
A Change in the Weather Unknown 18m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Geboor Unknown 30m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Tip Toe Unknown 12m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
White Ant Wall Unknown 15m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Rap Till You Crap Trad 15m 1.4.4. Back Wall
V1 Babylon Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
Cave traverse Boulder 4m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
Loogie Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Snot Blok
Sucker Punch Boulder 3m 1.2.2. Thin Face
Northern Face Boulder 7m 1.2.3. Tower du Warm-up
* Kathy the Krusher Boulder 3m 1.2.4. Globe Boulder
Sally the slapper Boulder 3m 1.2.4. Globe Boulder
Pockets Boulder 2m 1.3.2. Ordinary Men Boulder
Arete Boulder 1.3.4. The Monolith Boulder
* Fridge Hugger Boulder 5m 1.3.4. The Monolith Boulder
20 * No Joy- State Of Shock link up Unknown 20m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
State of Shock Mixed 25m, 2 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Young Warriors Trad 16m 1.1.4. Outcrop below Black Magic
An Evil Brew Mixed 12m, 1 1.1.5. Omega Block
Career of Evil Unknown 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Cultasaurous Erectus Unknown 16m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Warlock Mixed 35m, 3 1.1.5. Omega Block
Silent Steel Unknown 12m 1.4. Eastern Outcrops
Excuse Me While I Touch the Sky Mixed 20m, 1 1.4.2. Melbourne View Buttress
V2 Arete Boulder 4m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Leaky Bucket Boulder 4m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Ordinary Arete Boulder 2m 1.3.2. Ordinary Men Boulder
21 Dominance and Submission Trad 1.1.1. Privy Block
No Schmecking Trad 20m 1.1.1. Privy Block
* Low Life! Sport 8m, 2 1.1.2. Break like the wind
Sluts Have No Honour Sport 15m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Split Images Variant Mixed 20m, 3 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Unprofessional Conduct Trad 20m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Heat Seeker Trad 15m 1.1.4. Outcrop below Black Magic
* (Unnamed) Unknown 21m 1.1.5. Omega Block
*** Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 25m, 6 1.1.5. Omega Block
* Dominance and Submission Unknown 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
First Touch Sport 25m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Powder Hound Trad 30m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Witch Right Variant Finish Unknown 8m 1.1.5. Omega Block
No Schmecking Unknown 20m 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
22 * Here Come the Bastards Sport 12m, 3 1.1.1. Privy Block
Silent Assassin Sport 20m, 2 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Lola V Sport 15m, 4 1.1.5. Omega Block
** From Her To Eternity Unknown 14m 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
V3 Standing Strain Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
Beginnings Boulder 7m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
Lichen Spawn Boulder 5m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
* Steel-plated Beanie Boulder 5m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
Crouching Michael, Praying Mantle Boulder 2m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Four digits Boulder 4m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Ordinary Men Boulder 6m 1.3.2. Ordinary Men Boulder
** Ego Tripping at the Gates of Hell Boulder 8m 1.4.5. The Gatehouse
23 ** Tough Love Sport 12m, 4 1.1.1. Privy Block
* Slut's Honour Sport 17m, 4 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Underseige Sport 12m, 4 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Bloodline Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Boogie 'til You Puke RHF Sport 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Boogie RHV Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
* Boogie- Broomstick link up Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** The Broomstick Sport 21m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Witch Left Variant Finish Unknown 7m 1.1.5. Omega Block
V4 The Hull Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
** Boogers Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Snot Blok
** Nose Goblin Boulder 5m 1.2.1. Snot Blok
*** The Monolith Boulder 8m 1.3.4. The Monolith Boulder
** Nonplus panacea Boulder 8m 1.4.5. The Gatehouse
24 Slut's Alliance Sport 18m, 6 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Bewitched Sport 21m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Thundering Guns Trad 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
* Voodoo People Sport 22m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Rev Head Sport 8m, 2 1.4.4. Back Wall
25 The Green Alliance Sport 15m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
** Bop Till You Drop Sport 22m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Methotrexate Sport 25m 1.1.5. Omega Block
V5 ** Lip Traverse Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
Over Strained Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
Permanent Psych Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
The Half South Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
Nightshade Boulder 1.1.2. Break like the wind
Boogers Direct Boulder 1.2.1. Snot Blok
* Devil's in the Details Boulder 6m 1.4.5. The Gatehouse
26 Depravity Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
* Hollow Screams Original Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Satan said Dance Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Satanic Verses Sport 25m 1.1.5. Omega Block
V6 ** Release the koalas Boulder 5m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
Gone Fishing Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Snot Blok
Nose Goblin Direct Boulder 1.2.1. Snot Blok
Monolith SDS Boulder 1.3.4. The Monolith Boulder
*** Moamyn's Manual Boulder 7m 1.4.5. The Gatehouse
27 ** Satanic Verses (Direct) Sport 25m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** The Left Hand of Satan Sport 15m, 4 1.1.5. Omega Block
V7 Positive Ape Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
*** The Straining Rail Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
28 * Between Good and Evil Sport 18m, 4 1.1.5. Omega Block
The Howling Eliminate (Closed Project) Sport Project 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
* What Lies Beneath Sport 30m 1.1.5. Omega Block
28 to 29 ** Hollow Screams Direct Sport 22m 1.1.5. Omega Block
V8 * Humpty Dumpty Boulder 3m 1.1.1. Privy Block
** The Radness Boulder 1.1.2. Break like the wind
V9 The Long Road Home Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
Under Strain Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
? Southside Boulder Project 1.1.1. Privy Block
Training the Untrainable Boulder 1.1.1. Privy Block
Open Project Boulder Project 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Open project 2 Boulder Project 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Open Project Boulder Project 3m 1.2.4. Globe Boulder
V? *** Gérard Depardieu Boulder Project 3m 1.2.4. Globe Boulder