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Table of contents

1. Camels Hump 194 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.597294, -37.369643

Description:

Mount Macedon is a small town located 64 kilometers northwest of Melbourne. Camels Hump is the highest peak of Mount Macedon. This small rocky outcrop is relatively unimpressive but is in fact the 400 million year old remnant of one of the largest volcanoes ever seen in Earth's history.

It has steep and solid rock, with a variety of pumpy sport routes, tall trad lines, and crispy boulder problems. The area in great for climbers not wanting to make a long drive to the bigger named crags. If you're climbing grades 16-20 or V2-6, there's plenty of quality here worth ticking.

Approach:

Take the Calder Hwy (M79) out of Melbourne. Get off at the Mt Macedon exit (C322) and head up the Mount. The easiest approach to the crag is to simply walk along a trail marked "Emergency Use Only", that leaves from the Camel's Hump car park, and weaves around to the base of the Omega Block area.

1.1. Omega Block Area 122 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.596011, -37.369562

Description:© (willmonks)

The main area

Approach:

Go through the town of Mt Macedon and continue for about 3km up C322. Turn LEFT at the signpost to the Mt Macedon memorial cross (C328).

About 500m in on this road there is a car park and information sign; park here.

Walk along the track that starts at the western end of the car park. A couple meters down, take the right fork (marked "Emergency Track Only"). Follow this track past a few choss piles (some of which are bolted) until you see a track heading up the hill on the right.

OMEGA BLOCK is about 60m up the hill and the LOWER TIER is 30m straight ahead.

1.1.1. Straining Rail Buttress 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.595555, -37.369827

Description:

Coming along the track toward Omega Block, this is the first buttress of any substance. This buttress has some less-than-good routes and some excellent bouldering.

Approach:

Follow the track on the WEST side of the car park. Twenty metres down, follow the "Emergency Only" track. Keep walking about 200 meters and you'll pass by the buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Straining Rail

Sit start at base of slopey rail, head up and left. Don't forget to use your knees....hint, hint.

V7 Boulder
2 *** Humpty Dumpty

Starting on the sloppy rail. Span to the right and head straight up.

FA: Nick Sutter

V8 Boulder 3m
3 Unknown 2

Stand start on the somewhat loose-ish block. Head straight up. Very easy moves between jugs. If the block/fridge comes free and you are under it you will be removed with a spatula and a bucket!

V0+ Boulder
4 Tyranny and Mutation

Climb the short slab into the crack.

FA: Michael Woodrow and Co., 1992

18 Trad
5 Dominance and Submission

Climb the short overhang and then head upwards.

FA: Michael Woodrow and Co.

21 Trad
6 ** Lip Traverse

Traverse (Left to Right) the overhanging lip from a sit start. Decently hard.

Boulder

1.1.2. Break like the wind 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.595689, -37.369676

Description:

This buttress/block has short sports climbs and high boulder problems.

Approach:

This is next buttress/block along the trail from Straining Rail Buttress. This is also where the trail splits; one trail heading up the hill to Omega Block and another trail heading down toward the Lower Tier.

Descent Notes:

Walk off the back of the boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Steel-plated Beanie

Sit start. Head straight up the middle of the wall to topout on jugs. Is easily protectable with a spotter on the rock, or, a steel-plated beanie.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2014

V3 Boulder 5m
2 Nightshade

A hard sit start with low undercling and crimp. If you can reach the good holds near lip from sit start then V4. From lip a few slopy moves to gain rib immediately right of tree and up to finish on jugs.

FA: @mrewi, 2014

V5 Boulder
3 Beginnings

Sit start on opposing side pulls (left crimp and right arete). Head up, toping out on jugs bigger than your mother's.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2014

V3 Boulder 7m
4 Break Like the Wind

Climb the flake.

Start left of arete and up face

FA: M Lama, H Singh-Dodd, R Pannell, 1992

12 Trad 8m
5 Steve's left route

The left arête of the downhill face of the Privy Block, 2FHs to lower-off.

FA: Steve Holloway

17 Sport 8m, 2
6 Steve's right route

The middle of the downhill face of the Privy Block, 2 FHs to lower-off.

FA: Steve Holloway

21 Sport 8m, 2
7 ** The Radness

Cos its rad! Sit start. Climb the line of pockets and crimps (feet and hand jugs out left of arete all out). Stand start goes at around V4/5.

FA: Unknown

V7 Boulder
8 Lichen Spawn

Sit start with undercling and crimp. Head straight up the green runnel.

FA: Rob Cotton, 2015

V3 Boulder 5m
9 ** Release the koalas

Sit start with RH undercling and LH crimp. Make a challenging deadpoint into the seam out left before continuing up through some hugging and barndooring.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V7 Boulder 5m
10 Cave traverse

Sit start on jugs at back of cave. Traverse out and mantle to the right.

FA: Unknown

V1 Boulder 4m

1.1.3. Lower Tier 33 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.595906, -37.369374

Approach:

Follow the "Emergency Only" Trail west from the car park. When the Omega Block trail branches off up hill, continue straight for another 40m to reach the right side of Lower Tier.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Limbo 10 Trad 78m
2 Limbo Direct Finish 11 Unknown 30m
3 * Grey Arete

good beginner trad lead

10 Trad 32m
4 * Slut's Honour

Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'. Has recently had additional bolts added. There are some natural pros for extra protection.

23 Sport 17m, 4
5 Slut's Alliance

Good link up. Original climbed SH to its fourth bolt then right (crux) to join Green Alliance below overlap. Several recent ascents have gained the overlap at undercling and traversed right to GA which provides great climbing at 23.

FA: 2004

24 Sport 18m, 6
6 The Green Alliance

Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.

25 Sport 15m
7 Sluts Have No Honour

Up the wall then moving right and up at the crux. One my first attempt to lead it I got crossed up while eye-balling the chains and fell. The top bolt (an unnecessary bolt IMO) wasn't there then and I took a big arc down to my belayer (Anthony Bishop). Whilst I was flushing out the adrenaline Matthew Brooks rapped down and bolted the fun out of it.n Got it easy second try...

FA: Michael Woodrow and Anthony Bishop

21 Sport 15m
8 A Dose of the Politicians 15 Trad 25m
9 Return of the Fush 9 Trad 20m
10 Silent Assassin / The Silent Assasin

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

22 Mixed 20m, 2
11 * Unprofessional Conduct

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. May be run out.

21 Trad 20m
12 Underseige

Originally started off the same ledge as 'No Joy', but has had a direct start added. Up the wall passing a bolt to break (gear), then up past three more bolts to chains.

23 Mixed 12m, 4
13 No Joy 18 Trad 20m
14 Keystones / Wall R of No Joy

Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.

FA: Peter Stebbins, Matthew Brooks, 1991

17 to 18 Sport 10m, 2
15 Blind Sox

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up atete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

15 Trad 30m
16 State of Shock

up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by ring bolt to rap station

Start: just left of poxbow under obvious corner

20 Mixed 25m, 2
17 Blind Justice

Pro is spaced, a fall before the small slot (small cam, medium nut) would probably be a grounder. Did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for me!

FA: Michael Woodrow and Ian Campbell

17 R Mixed 40m, 2
18 * Poxbow 17 Trad 30m
19 Sox Glo 16 Trad 29m
20 Split Images Variant

Appears to start up 'Split Images', cross through 'Law Enforcer' through the overlap and finishing up 'Poxbow' variant?

21 Mixed 20m, 3
21 * Split Images

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

18 Mixed 20m, 2
22 ** Law Enforcer

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Slit Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1991

19 Mixed 20m, 4
23 Oxbow

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

  1. 33m (6)

  2. 33m (6)

  3. 33m (6)

  4. 30m (6) Crux pitch!

6 Trad 130m 4
24 Dummy bidder

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

8 Trad 20m
25 Spit the dummy

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

5 Trad 20m
26 A Soft Touch 12 Trad 25m
27 * One Hump or Two 12 Trad 75m 3
28 Open Project

Start at base of wall and traverse up and right to finish as per "Four Digits"

Boulder Project
29 V2 Block

Stand start on crimpy dishes, big move to giant jug, then two committing sloper moves to top out. You can sit start the problem at the same grade.

FA: @jimmy_stephens, 2009

V2 Boulder 4m
30 Four digits

Sit start with opposing side pulls; one on arete and one on face. Head straight up.

FA: Rocot, 2015

V3 Boulder 4m
31 Arete

Sit start the arete with high crimp and left side pull. Don't use the chockstone to the right. Fun but contrived.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V2 Boulder 4m
32 Crouching Michael, Praying Mantle

Climb the chockstone. From good jugs, campus between good holds to mantle. Some might call this a bad landing and uninspiring moves... they would be right.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V3 Boulder 2m
33 Open project 2

Sit star with side pull, head up to under long and top out.

Boulder Project

1.1.4. Outcrop below Black Magic 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 144.596030, -37.369587

Approach:

As for Witch (Omega Block). Walk down the cliffline from Boogie until you are directly below Black Magic

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Heat Seeker

Up to cave as for YW, but continue direct up a groove past a BR.

Start: Start as for YW.

FA: Matt Brooks, Chris Yeomans, 1991

21 Trad 15m
2 Young Warriors

Groove to cave, R to chimney and up it. Swing L out of chimney beneath loose blocks over roof/arete, then up face.

Start: Start below and a bit L of chimney.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, Peter Stebbins, 1991

20 Trad 16m
3 War Front

Looks dirty.

Start: Start to the R of the chimney.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, Peter Stebbins, 1991

18 Trad 15m

1.1.5. Omega Block 61 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.596172, -37.369510

Approach:

Routes from Hawker to Broomstick start from an uneven ledgy area above an 8-10m lower clifflet. Several people have stuffed up and taken the plummet. Take care, and stick clip 1st bolts.

Descent Notes:

Most routes have lower-offs, otherwise scramble carefully down the back of the block (about 15m R of Witch).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hawker

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst, 1968

7 Trad 15m
2 Size Matters

Start as for "Good Things" and climb direct past 2FH. Move left to "Wee Ripper" anchors.

FA: Ian Boorman, 2013

18 Sport 8m, 3
3 Good Things Come in Small Packages

Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper. Somewhat usurped by LM but worthwhile. Adds 4m to Wee Ripper. Thin moves Diagonally past RB bring jugs on WR to hand. Finish up the original. Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper

FA: Mark Atkinson, Mark Rewi, 2012

18 Sport 12m, 3
4 Wee Ripper

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

FA: Joy Fletcher. 1990s?, 1982

17 Sport 12m
5 An Evil Brew

Cruxy.

Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1990

20 Mixed 12m, 1
6 ** Powder Hound

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'. Up wall for 3m then diag R across Black Magic to Bloodline, up this for 2m then diag R to diagonal crack. Up crack and go R around bulges. Up a little to horizontal break which leads R to final blunt arete. Probably all bolts once you hit Bloodline.

FA: Mike Law,Chris Baxter. Early 80s?, 1982

21 Trad 30m
7 Black Magic

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

FA: Calvin Ho, 1968

15 Trad 20m
8 Lola V

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware. Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings, or an even better option is to step R again to join the LH of Satan past it's last bolt.

FA: Mike Law,early 80s?, 1982

22 Sport 15m, 4
9 * Bloodline

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves!

Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

FA: Andrew Thompson, Greg Child (with 1 bolt!), 1978

23 Sport 20m
10 ** Methotrexate

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 3rd bolt on Bop till You Drop. Down and down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick.

FA: @mikllaw, 1981

25 Sport 25m
11 ** The Left Hand of Satan / Unnamed

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SVs start at the same grade.

FA: Reuben Bennett-Daly, 2003

27 Sport 15m, 4
12 * Between Good and Evil

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor. Crux hold damaged but has been repeated since.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2014

28 Sport 18m, 4
13 ** Satanic Verses (Direct)

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.

27 Sport 25m
14 ** Satanic Verses

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming!

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

26 Sport 25m
15 ** Satan said Dance

Start up Bop for 2 bolts, move left and finish up 'Satanic Verses' Direct. Probably 26 (easier than SV original and HS original), but very nice.

FA: Alistair Robertson, 2000

26 Sport 20m
16 ** Bop Till You Drop

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

25 Sport 22m
17 * Bewitched

Another good route, this time just slightly harder than 'Broomstick', although the crux is still the bouldery start!

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1993

24 Sport 21m
18 ** The Broomstick / Broomstick

Bouldery 23. desperate

FA: Mike Law, 1979

23 Sport 21m
19 * Voodoo People / Broomstick RHV

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals.

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick' then up right and direct through scoop via FHs to DBB.

FA: A bit of a group effort through the late noughties!, 2000

24 Sport 22m
20 Depravity

Another link up for when you have finished the rest. Climb Broomstick to jugs. Extend third bolt then traverse right to join the crux of HS original. Once through the difficulties finish as per Boogie RHV. More sustained than HS original.

26 Sport 20m
21 ** Hollow Screams Direct

The hardest route around 'Melbourne'.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder. 29 if climbed direct but some will succumb to temptation to rest up right in the scoop or on the jugs out left at the same level, both of which are probably 28.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1999

28 to 29 Sport 22m
22 * Boogie- Broomstick link up / Boogie into Broomstick

Meant to be ok.

Start: Start as for Boogie and traverse left across scoop to join broomstick.

FA: Nick Taylor early 80s, 2000

23 Sport 20m
23 * Hollow Screams Original / Boogie LHV / Boogie Direct

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

26 Sport 20m
24 * (Unnamed) 21 Unknown 21m
25 *** Boogie 'til You Puke

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft. early 80s, 2000

21 Sport 25m, 6
26 * Boogie RHV / Boogie into Witch LHF

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2000

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2005

23 Sport 20m
27 ** Warlock

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

20 Mixed 35m, 3
28 ** Witch

An area 'classic'.

17 Trad 21m
29 Witch Direct Start 15 Unknown 8m
30 Witch Left Variant Finish / Witch LHF

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

23 Unknown 7m
31 Witch Right Variant Finish / Witch RHF 21 Unknown 8m
32 * Wishful Thinking

Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft, 1982

16 Mixed 21m, 1
33 Time Child

Mossy

18 Trad 20m
34 Romulus

FA: Peter Jackson and Steve Craddock, 1962

10 Trad 12m
35 Remus

FA: Steve Craddock and Peter Jackson, 1962

8 Trad 12m
36 Spellbound 19 Trad 10m
37 Gun Club 14 Trad 10m
38 Sze 12 Trad 15m
39 Drain Pipes 8 Trad 18m
40 Jugs and jury

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

5 Trad 16m
41 Gumslinger 18 Unknown 7m
42 A Rook 18 Unknown 7m
43 A Knight 18 Unknown 8m
44 Next to Impossible 18 Unknown 18m
45 Impossible 18 Unknown 18m
46 Tyranny and Mutation 18 Unknown 16m
47 Cultasaurous Erectus 20 Unknown 16m
48 * Dominance and Submission 21 Unknown 18m
49 As Beautiful As A Foot 9 Unknown 10m
50 Pockets 10 Unknown 10m
51 Blue Oyster Wall 14 Unknown 10m
52 Career of Evil 20 Unknown 20m
53 Nosferatu 14 Unknown 10m
54 XTCherie 11 Unknown 10m
55 ** From Her To Eternity

FA: Michael Woodrow

22 Unknown 14m
56 Biker Mice From Mars 18 Unknown 32m
57 Thundering Guns

Bouldery wall L of HS, 2BRs.

Start: Start 2m L of HS.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1991

24 Trad 10m
58 * No Joy- State Of Shock link up 20 Unknown 20m
59 Humping the Camel 9 Trad 18m
60 Boogie 'til You Puke RHF

It's hard to see how this is any different to Boogie.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

23 Sport 18m
61 First Touch

Almost not worth recording as it's been almost completely superseded. Then again, many 'Melbourne' locals will probably become desperate enough to do it at some point.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Paul Cuthbert, 1994

21 Sport 25m

1.1.6. Gully behind Omega 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 144.596342, -37.369642

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Straining Rail 12 Unknown 20m
2 Too Humped to Pump 18 Unknown
3 Scenester

Start as for Break Like the Wind. Starts off small block, directly up left arete on small holds past FH (crux) to pocket and jugs to intermittent crack. Lower off above Low Life!

Should be on Break Like the Wind Outcrop (is Steve's L) route)...

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil, 2014

18 Mixed 8m, 1
4 Low Life!

On front face of small pinnacle right beside walking track before track goes uphill to Omega Block. Starts of sharp flake / jug in middle of face, straight up on small crimps and mono pocket past 2 x fixed hangers.

Should be on Break Like the Wind Outcrop (is Steve's R) route)...

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil, 2014

21 Sport 8m, 2
5 Chain 19 Unknown 20m
6 No Schmecking 21 Unknown 20m
7 * John 19 Unknown 20m
8 S-Bend 15 Unknown 20m
9 The Snatch 18 Unknown

1.2. Northern Sector 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 144.597291, -37.369281

Description:

An area with a decent amount of bouldering, but which is still being developed. Bring some psyche and lend a hand!

Approach:

Approach by following the trail from Lower Tier (Omega Block area) around the corner. The area is about 100m past Lower Tier, with the boulders scattered both up and down the hill.

1.2.1. Baguette Block 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 144.596889, -37.369371

Description:

Block just uphill and west of "Ordinary Men Boulder"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Baguette

Unassumingly good. Stand start on in the crack. Follow the crack leftwards until it forks, whereupon follow the crack and face upwards.

FA: Yann Joubert, 2015

V0 Boulder 5m

1.2.2. Ordinary Men Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 144.597114, -37.369276

Description:

High ball boulder; with a number of good, low ball problems on the southern side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ordinary Men

Sit start at jug on right arete. Traverse leftwards staying below the top. Either finish on the cheater stone (V2) or make the big moves to finish on the left arete (V3).

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V3 Boulder 6m
2 Ordinary Arete

Start on the same jug as "Ordinary Men", and head straight up the left side of the arete.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V2 Boulder 2m
3 Pockets

Sit start with underclings on the large pockets in the middle of the face. Head straight up.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V1 Boulder 2m

1.2.3. Simple Things Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

Short boulder chokers with big pockets

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 All The Simple Things

Climb the pockets from a sit start.

FA: Levi Schmidt, 2015

VB- Boulder 3m

1.2.4. The Monolith Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 144.597291, -37.369281

Description:

One of the highest and beautiful boulders in the area. The northern side has a number of easy highball slabs, the western face has some moderate highball faces, and the eastern/south face have short, powerful climbs.

Approach:

Approach via the Lower Tier. From the far left end of the Lower Tier, traverse 200m around the contour line of the hill. You can't miss the tall face of "The Monolith" V4.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Candy Mountain

Climb the high slab on the left.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

VB- Boulder 7m
2 Charlie the Unicorn

Climb the centre of the highball slab on good holds.

FA: Rob Cotton, 2015

VB- Boulder 7m
3 The Magical Liopleurodon

Start just right of the arete and head up the highball slab. Easy climbing on good holds.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

VB- Boulder 7m
4 Open Project

Climb the high arete.

Boulder Project
5 *** The Monolith

Climb the beautiful highball face. Stand start with opposing sidepulls and head up through crimps and underclings. At the roof, head out left. A classic highball.

Sit start will go around the same grade. A route through the roof is inviting...

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V4 Boulder 8m
6 * Fridge Hugger

Climb the refrigerator to either bail onto the chockstone or head up the exciting headwall.

Sit start goes at V1. Stand V0. Try to avoid using the chockstone on right on lower part of climb.

FA: @steveduggan, 21st Mar

V1 Boulder 5m

1.3. Eastern Outcrops 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.598396, -37.369494

Description:

Go through the town of Mt Macedon and continue for about another 3km.

About 20m past the turn off to the memorial cross, park at the turnoff to the Sanatorium Lake picnic area on the R.

Walk back across the Mt Macedon Rd and follow a faint path past a quarry to the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 PS 5 Unknown 12m
2 Russell 1 15 Trad 18m
3 * Space Jugging

If walking from the small, fire trail parking area on Mount Macedon Rd (300m north of the C328/Memorial Cross turnoff), the "Melbourne Views" buttress that contains Space Jugging will be one of the first you reach, and is just past the quarry. Look for a large pile of rockfall reaching down to the base of the rocks, and walk up to the left of it to reach Melbourne View Buttress, which starts half way up the cliff.

Space Jugging starts at the overhanging, juggy crack left of the left arete. Up and slightly right to a carrot bolt, then follow the jugs up the arete past another bolt.

FA: Andrew Stevens,MacKenzie Usher, 1988

15 Mixed 20m, 2
4 Excuse Me While I Touch the Sky 20 Unknown 20m
5 A1 5 Unknown 30m
6 D1 8 Unknown 8m
7 Gutter Talk 18 Unknown 8m
8 Down the Gurgler 17 Unknown 8m
9 Lawyers in Love 14 Unknown 20m
10 Notes on Pillows 13 Unknown 20m
11 Deep Throat, Moist Lungs 17 Unknown 8m
12 Pock 14 Unknown 8m
13 Who Ya Waving To? 16 Unknown 9m
14 Who Ya Waving To? Direct Start 16 Unknown 4m
15 A2 6 Unknown 12m
16 N 8 Unknown 13m
17 A3 10 Unknown 14m
18 Honeycomb Hangover 18 Unknown 15m
19 White Ant Wall 19 Unknown 15m
20 Fats All Round 15 Unknown 18m
21 Hazy Shade of Winter 17 Unknown 18m
22 H1 10 Unknown 23m
23 PD 11 Unknown 24m
24 PD Variant 12 Unknown
25 P1 16 Unknown 25m
26 SE 4 Unknown 12m
27 K 7 Unknown 20m
28 C 8 Unknown 21m
29 A4 3 Unknown 15m
30 G 8 Unknown 7m
31 P2 12 Unknown 7m
32 D2 7 Unknown 12m
33 H2 6 Unknown 18m
34 H3 6 Unknown 18m
35 S 6 Unknown 18m
36 B 5 Unknown 18m
37 Revenge of the Moths 18 Unknown 12m
38 A Change in the Weather 19 Unknown 18m
39 Silent Steel 20 Unknown 12m
40 Tip Toe 19 Unknown 12m
41 Geboor 19 Unknown 30m

1.3.1. Back Wall 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.597943, -37.369546

Description:

Unloved for years, some recent rebolting has seen a bit more interest of late. The cliff now sports plenty of shiny stainless at low grades.

Approach:

If climbing at the Lower Tier below Omega Block, the suggested approach is as follows:

From 'Grey Arete', continue walking away from the carpark along a series of vague pads, trending vaguely upwards. A very large fallen tree soon points down the slope, skirt this on the uphill side. From the top of the tree, continue slightly upwards (cairns may be visible). The pad now continues up and across the hill onto a more level area; the crag is hidden in the trees facing towards you on the left as you face uphill.

Alternative approach if coming straight from the carpark. Follow the tourist track towards Camels Hump summit, turn left on good path marked 'Danger Cliff Face' after 50ish metres down this track at a saddle (This saddle is easily reached from the other direction by scrambling up from omega block) turn right and head off the track. Initially go downhill and right then keep the outcrops above you immediately on your right. Follow this for 100m to the 50m long 20m high vertical cliff that is the Back Wall.

Descent Notes:

There are double bolt anchors at the top of many climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Friction Modified

Hard, short. Single bolt on the left hand end of the block.

18 Sport 8m, 1
2 Pocket Rocket

More thinness. Single bolt up the middle of the block.

18 Sport 8m, 1
3 Rev Head

The 24 you need when you're feeling down. Soft.

1FH & 1BR up the arete. Trad anchor. As of February 2015 both bolts are bash-in and the route will require cleaning.

24 Sport 8m, 2
4 Human Hex 4 Unknown 10m
5 Shod 13 Unknown 12m
6 News From Home 15 Unknown 20m
7 Summer Breeze

Left most line of 4FHs to crack (mid/large wires if you're worried) and up right to shared double U anchor.

15 Sport 15m, 4
8 Unknown

1 metre right of 'Summer Breeze', 5 bolts with a balancy start up to DBB. Make sure to extend anchor if toproping.

15 Sport 15m, 4
9 Skippy

Third line of bolts from the left. Up to either original chain over the lip, or step right to anchor on 'Undertow'.

13 Sport 25m, 5
10 Brian Boru

Line with single bolt in the middle of the sport routes, up to DBB on right.

14 Mixed 24m, 1
11 Undertow

Undercut start on arete past 4 FH to DBB anchor as for 'Brian Boru'.

FA: @mrewi, 2014

16 Sport 15m, 4
12 Locris / L

The trench. Marked with a square and an 'L' on the left side at the base.

3 Trad 24m
13 Tie The Knot

Start for 'Anthony's Arete'. Up for 2 bolts then step over the trench of 'Locris'. 4 more bolts to anchor.

FA: Phil Aarons, 2014

12 Sport 18m, 6
14 Anthony's Arete

Start on the right arete of 'Locris', and follow it up the slab. Trad gear at the top if you're worried.

FA: Liam Aarons, 2014

9 Sport 20m, 4
15 One For The Masses

Starts 3m right of the trench ('Locris'). Follow the FH, then up to anchor. Bonus large wires or slings if you don't like runout finishes.

FA: @mrewi, 2007

14 Sport 20m, 4
16 Owen Glyndower 14 Unknown 24m
17 Tobin Brothers 12 Unknown 25m
18 P3 13 Unknown 23m
19 Digger

Start 7m left of Rap Until You Crap. Climb obvious right leaning chunky flake crack. Step right 2m and climb steep red overhang off block. Mossy finish. Number 0 BD micro cam is pretty handy for the top.

FFA: @lewisclarey,@angelonanos, 15th Feb

15 Trad 20m
20 Rap Till You Crap 19 Unknown 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 A4 Unknown 15m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Locris Trad 24m 1.3.1. Back Wall
VB- All The Simple Things Boulder 3m 1.2.3. Simple Things Boulder
Candy Mountain Boulder 7m 1.2.4. The Monolith Boulder
Charlie the Unicorn Boulder 7m 1.2.4. The Monolith Boulder
The Magical Liopleurodon Boulder 7m 1.2.4. The Monolith Boulder
4 SE Unknown 12m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Human Hex Unknown 10m 1.3.1. Back Wall
5 Spit the dummy Trad 20m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Jugs and jury Trad 16m 1.1.5. Omega Block
A1 Unknown 30m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
B Unknown 18m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
PS Unknown 12m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
6 Oxbow Trad 130m 4 1.1.3. Lower Tier
A2 Unknown 12m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
H2 Unknown 18m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
H3 Unknown 18m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
S Unknown 18m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
7 Hawker Trad 15m 1.1.5. Omega Block
D2 Unknown 12m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
K Unknown 20m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
8 Dummy bidder Trad 20m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Drain Pipes Trad 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Remus Trad 12m 1.1.5. Omega Block
C Unknown 21m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
D1 Unknown 8m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
G Unknown 7m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
N Unknown 13m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
9 Return of the Fush Trad 20m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
As Beautiful As A Foot Unknown 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Humping the Camel Trad 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Anthony's Arete Sport 20m, 4 1.3.1. Back Wall
10 * Grey Arete Trad 32m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Limbo Trad 78m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Pockets Unknown 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Romulus Trad 12m 1.1.5. Omega Block
A3 Unknown 14m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
H1 Unknown 23m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
11 Limbo Direct Finish Unknown 30m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
XTCherie Unknown 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
PD Unknown 24m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
12 Break Like the Wind Trad 8m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
A Soft Touch Trad 25m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* One Hump or Two Trad 75m 3 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Sze Trad 15m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Straining Rail Unknown 20m 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
P2 Unknown 7m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
PD Variant Unknown 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Tie The Knot Sport 18m, 6 1.3.1. Back Wall
Tobin Brothers Unknown 25m 1.3.1. Back Wall
13 Notes on Pillows Unknown 20m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
P3 Unknown 23m 1.3.1. Back Wall
Shod Unknown 12m 1.3.1. Back Wall
Skippy Sport 25m, 5 1.3.1. Back Wall
14 Blue Oyster Wall Unknown 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Gun Club Trad 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Nosferatu Unknown 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Lawyers in Love Unknown 20m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Pock Unknown 8m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Brian Boru Mixed 24m, 1 1.3.1. Back Wall
One For The Masses Sport 20m, 4 1.3.1. Back Wall
Owen Glyndower Unknown 24m 1.3.1. Back Wall
15 A Dose of the Politicians Trad 25m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Blind Sox Trad 30m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Black Magic Trad 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Witch Direct Start Unknown 8m 1.1.5. Omega Block
S-Bend Unknown 20m 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
Fats All Round Unknown 18m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Russell 1 Trad 18m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
* Space Jugging Mixed 20m, 2 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Digger Trad 20m 1.3.1. Back Wall
News From Home Unknown 20m 1.3.1. Back Wall
Summer Breeze Sport 15m, 4 1.3.1. Back Wall
Unknown Sport 15m, 4 1.3.1. Back Wall
V0 * Baguette Boulder 5m 1.2.1. Baguette Block
16 Sox Glo Trad 29m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Wishful Thinking Mixed 21m, 1 1.1.5. Omega Block
P1 Unknown 25m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Who Ya Waving To? Unknown 9m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Who Ya Waving To? Direct Start Unknown 4m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Undertow Sport 15m, 4 1.3.1. Back Wall
17 Steve's left route Sport 8m, 2 1.1.2. Break like the wind
* Poxbow Trad 30m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Wee Ripper Sport 12m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Witch Trad 21m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Deep Throat, Moist Lungs Unknown 8m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Down the Gurgler Unknown 8m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Hazy Shade of Winter Unknown 18m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
17 R Blind Justice Mixed 40m, 2 1.1.3. Lower Tier
17 to 18 Keystones Sport 10m, 2 1.1.3. Lower Tier
V0+ Unknown 2 Boulder 1.1.1. Straining Rail Buttress
18 Tyranny and Mutation Trad 1.1.1. Straining Rail Buttress
No Joy Trad 20m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Split Images Mixed 20m, 2 1.1.3. Lower Tier
War Front Trad 15m 1.1.4. Outcrop below Black Magic
A Knight Unknown 8m 1.1.5. Omega Block
A Rook Unknown 7m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Biker Mice From Mars Unknown 32m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Good Things Come in Small Packages Sport 12m, 3 1.1.5. Omega Block
Gumslinger Unknown 7m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Impossible Unknown 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Next to Impossible Unknown 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Size Matters Sport 8m, 3 1.1.5. Omega Block
Time Child Trad 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Tyranny and Mutation Unknown 16m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Scenester Mixed 8m, 1 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
The Snatch Unknown 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
Too Humped to Pump Unknown 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
Gutter Talk Unknown 8m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Honeycomb Hangover Unknown 15m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Revenge of the Moths Unknown 12m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Friction Modified Sport 8m, 1 1.3.1. Back Wall
Pocket Rocket Sport 8m, 1 1.3.1. Back Wall
19 ** Law Enforcer Mixed 20m, 4 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Spellbound Trad 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Chain Unknown 20m 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
* John Unknown 20m 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
A Change in the Weather Unknown 18m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Geboor Unknown 30m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Tip Toe Unknown 12m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
White Ant Wall Unknown 15m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Rap Till You Crap Unknown 15m 1.3.1. Back Wall
V1 Cave traverse Boulder 4m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
Pockets Boulder 2m 1.2.2. Ordinary Men Boulder
* Fridge Hugger Boulder 5m 1.2.4. The Monolith Boulder
20 State of Shock Mixed 25m, 2 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Young Warriors Trad 16m 1.1.4. Outcrop below Black Magic
An Evil Brew Mixed 12m, 1 1.1.5. Omega Block
Career of Evil Unknown 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Cultasaurous Erectus Unknown 16m 1.1.5. Omega Block
* No Joy- State Of Shock link up Unknown 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Warlock Mixed 35m, 3 1.1.5. Omega Block
Excuse Me While I Touch the Sky Unknown 20m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
Silent Steel Unknown 12m 1.3. Eastern Outcrops
V2 Arete Boulder 4m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
V2 Block Boulder 4m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Ordinary Arete Boulder 2m 1.2.2. Ordinary Men Boulder
21 Dominance and Submission Trad 1.1.1. Straining Rail Buttress
Steve's right route Sport 8m, 2 1.1.2. Break like the wind
Sluts Have No Honour Sport 15m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Split Images Variant Mixed 20m, 3 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Unprofessional Conduct Trad 20m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Heat Seeker Trad 15m 1.1.4. Outcrop below Black Magic
* (Unnamed) Unknown 21m 1.1.5. Omega Block
*** Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 25m, 6 1.1.5. Omega Block
* Dominance and Submission Unknown 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
First Touch Sport 25m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Powder Hound Trad 30m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Witch Right Variant Finish Unknown 8m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Low Life! Sport 8m, 2 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
No Schmecking Unknown 20m 1.1.6. Gully behind Omega
22 Silent Assassin Mixed 20m, 2 1.1.3. Lower Tier
** From Her To Eternity Unknown 14m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Lola V Sport 15m, 4 1.1.5. Omega Block
V3 Beginnings Boulder 7m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
Lichen Spawn Boulder 5m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
* Steel-plated Beanie Boulder 5m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
Crouching Michael, Praying Mantle Boulder 2m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Four digits Boulder 4m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Ordinary Men Boulder 6m 1.2.2. Ordinary Men Boulder
23 * Slut's Honour Sport 17m, 4 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Underseige Mixed 12m, 4 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Bloodline Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Boogie 'til You Puke RHF Sport 18m 1.1.5. Omega Block
* Boogie RHV Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
* Boogie- Broomstick link up Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** The Broomstick Sport 21m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Witch Left Variant Finish Unknown 7m 1.1.5. Omega Block
V4 *** The Monolith Boulder 8m 1.2.4. The Monolith Boulder
24 Slut's Alliance Sport 18m, 6 1.1.3. Lower Tier
* Bewitched Sport 21m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Thundering Guns Trad 10m 1.1.5. Omega Block
* Voodoo People Sport 22m 1.1.5. Omega Block
Rev Head Sport 8m, 2 1.3.1. Back Wall
25 The Green Alliance Sport 15m 1.1.3. Lower Tier
** Bop Till You Drop Sport 22m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Methotrexate Sport 25m 1.1.5. Omega Block
V5 Nightshade Boulder 1.1.2. Break like the wind
26 Depravity Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
* Hollow Screams Original Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Satan said Dance Sport 20m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** Satanic Verses Sport 25m 1.1.5. Omega Block
27 ** Satanic Verses (Direct) Sport 25m 1.1.5. Omega Block
** The Left Hand of Satan Sport 15m, 4 1.1.5. Omega Block
V7 *** The Straining Rail Boulder 1.1.1. Straining Rail Buttress
** Release the koalas Boulder 5m 1.1.2. Break like the wind
** The Radness Boulder 1.1.2. Break like the wind
28 * Between Good and Evil Sport 18m, 4 1.1.5. Omega Block
28 to 29 ** Hollow Screams Direct Sport 22m 1.1.5. Omega Block
V8 *** Humpty Dumpty Boulder 3m 1.1.1. Straining Rail Buttress
? ** Lip Traverse Boulder 1.1.1. Straining Rail Buttress
Open Project Boulder Project 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Open project 2 Boulder Project 1.1.3. Lower Tier
Open Project Boulder Project 1.2.4. The Monolith Boulder