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Lower Tier 27 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 30m
  • Style: Trad,Sport and other styles
  • Favorites: 1
  • Ascents: 612
  • Aka: Back side of Omega block

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Limbo
10
Trad 78m
2 Limbo Direct Finish
11
Unknown 30m
3 * Grey Arete

good beginner trad lead

10
Trad 32m
4 * Slut's Honour

Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'. Has recently had additional bolts added.

23
Mixed 31m , 4
5 A Dose of the Politicians
15
Trad 25m
6 * The Green Alliance
25
Sport 15m
7 Slut's Alliance

Good link up. Climb SA to it's second bolt then right (crux) to join Green Alliance just below overlap.

FA: , 2004

24
Sport 18m , 4
8 Sluts Have No Honour
21
Sport 15m
9 Return of the Fush
9
Trad 20m
10 Silent Assassin / The Silent Assasin

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

22
Mixed 20m , 2
11 Unprofessional Conduct

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. May be run out.

21
Trad 20m
12 No Joy
18
Unknown 20m
13 Keystones / Wall R of No Joy

Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.

FA: Peter Stebbins, Matthew Brooks, 1991

17 to 18
Sport 10m , 2
14 * Blind Sox

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up atete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

15
Trad 30m
15 State of Shock

up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by ring bolt to rap station

Start: just left of poxbow under obvious corner

20
Mixed 15m , 2
16 Blind Justice

pro is spaced, a fall before the small slot (small cam, medium nut) would probably be a grounder

17 R
Mixed 40m , 2
17 * Poxbow
17
Trad 30m
18 Sox Glo
16
Trad 29m
19 * Split Images

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

18
Mixed 20m , 2
20 * Law Enforcer

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Slit Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1991

19
Sport 20m , 4
21 Oxbow

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

  1. 33m (6)

  2. 33m (6)

  3. 33m (6)

  4. 30m (6) Crux pitch!

6
Trad 130m
22 Dummy bidder

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

8
Trad 20m
23 Spit the dummy

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

5
Trad 20m
24 Underseige

Originally started off the same ledge as 'No Joy', but has had a direct start added. Up the wall passing a bolt to break (gear), then up past three more bolts to chains.

23
Mixed 12m , 4
25 A Soft Touch
12
Trad 25m
26 One Hump or Two
12
Trad 75m
27 V2 Block

Left of "Grey Arete" down the walking trail, there is a large boulder with the top covered in moss, just left a small cave. Stand start on crimpy dishes, big move to giant jug, then two committing sloper moves to top out. Good fun.

V2
Boulder 4m