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Routes

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Grade Route
1
10 Limbo Trad 78m
2
11 Limbo Direct Finish Unknown 30m
3
10 * Grey Arete Trad 32m

good beginner trad lead

4
23 * Slut's Honour Mixed 31m, 4

Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'. Has recently had additional bolts added.

5
24 Slut's Alliance Sport 18m, 4

Good link up. Climb SA to it's second bolt then right (crux) to join Green Alliance just below overlap.

FA: 2004

6
25 * The Green Alliance Sport 15m
7
21 Sluts Have No Honour Sport 15m

Up the wall then moving right and up at the crux. One my first attempt to lead it I got crossed up while eye-balling the chains and fell. The top bolt (an unnecessary bolt IMO) wasn't there then and I took a big arc down to my belayer (Anthony Bishop). Whilst I was flushing out the adrenaline Matthew Brooks rapped down and bolted the fun out of it.n Got it easy second try...

FA: Michael Woodrow and Anthony Bishop

10

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

11

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. May be run out.

12
18 No Joy Trad 20m
13
15 Blind Sox Trad 30m

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up atete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

14
20 State of Shock Mixed 15m, 2

up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by ring bolt to rap station

Start: just left of poxbow under obvious corner

15
17 R Blind Justice Mixed 40m, 2

Pro is spaced, a fall before the small slot (small cam, medium nut) would probably be a grounder. Did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for me!

FA: Michael Woodrow and Ian Campbell

16
17 * Poxbow Trad 30m
17
16 Sox Glo Trad 29m
18
21 * Split Images Variant Mixed 20m, 3

Appears to start up 'Split Images', cross through 'Law Enforcer' through the overlap and finishing up 'Poxbow' variant?

19
18 * Split Images Mixed 20m, 2

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

20
19 * Law Enforcer Sport 20m, 4

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Slit Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1991

21
6 Oxbow Trad 130m

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

  1. 33m (6)

  2. 33m (6)

  3. 33m (6)

  4. 30m (6) Crux pitch!

22
8 Dummy bidder Trad 20m

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arĂȘte at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arĂȘte and up to the top

23
17 to 18 Keystones / Wall R of No Joy Sport 10m, 2

Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.

FA: Peter Stebbins, Matthew Brooks, 1991

24
5 Spit the dummy Trad 20m

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

25
23 Underseige Mixed 12m, 4

Originally started off the same ledge as 'No Joy', but has had a direct start added. Up the wall passing a bolt to break (gear), then up past three more bolts to chains.

26
12 A Soft Touch Trad 25m
27
12 One Hump or Two Trad 75m
28
V2 V2 Block Boulder 4m

Left of "Grey Arete" down the walking trail, there is a large boulder with the top covered in moss, just left a small cave. Stand start on crimpy dishes, big move to giant jug, then two committing sloper moves to top out. Good fun.