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Approach

Follow the "Emergency Only" Trail west from the car park. When the Omega Block trail branches off up hill, continue straight for another 40m to reach the right side of Lower Tier. Routes are listed from the far end (Leaky Bucket area) to the end closest to the car park (Oxbow area).

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Grade Route

At the LH end of the Lower Tier, there are three buttresses facing towards Hanging Rock just before the cliff breaks down. These are reached by scrambling down below the Leaky Bucket area and following the path back up again on the other side of the first buttress.

  1. 39m Climb the mossy, slabby middle buttress (3m right of a burnt out tree which makes a good landmark) to the top

  2. 10m Move the belay by walking across the buttress to a large white tree and another big mossy buttress

  3. 33m Straight up to a steep wall with a crack. Move right below the steep wall to another bulge and finish up another crack

FA: Harley Burke & Greg Fitzgerald, 1968

On pitch 3, continue straight up the crack system. Graded 14 in NW Victoria Guide.

FA: Barry Russell & Andrew Stevens, 1990

Start at base of wall and traverse up and right to finish as per "Four Digits"

Sit start with side pull and crimp, head up to opposing gaston and top out.

FA: Andy Crow, 2016

Stand start on crimpy dishes, big move to giant jug, then two committing sloper moves to top out. You can sit start the problem at the same grade.

FA: Jimmy, 2009

Sit start with opposing side pulls; one on arete and one on face. Head straight up.

FA: Rocot, 2015

Sit start the arete with high crimp and left side pull. Don't use the chockstone to the right. Fun but contrived.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015

Climb the chockstone. From good jugs, campus between good holds to mantle. Some might call this a bad landing and uninspiring moves... they would be right.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015

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Named because of the furry handholds! Starts 2m left of Grey Arete at the foot of the slab. Up right leading crack to overlap. Step up left onto slab below overhang. Up ramp to break overhang on the right almost joining Grey Arête before heading up and left to ledge.

FA: Rupert Freeman & Jerry Kupfer, 2002

good beginner trad lead

Contrived. Up the wall between Grey Arete and Slut's Honour, placing gear on the left. At the ledge go directly over the ledge on the right where the boulder rests. Up right of the slab to the top.

FA: Michael 'Wonderdog' Woodrow, Anthony Bishop & Julian Keane, 1994

Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'. Has recently had additional bolts added. There is some natural pro for extra protection.

Good link up. Original climbed SH to its fourth bolt then right (crux) to join Green Alliance below overlap. Several recent ascents have gained the overlap at undercling and traversed right to GA which provides great climbing at 23.

FA: 2004

Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.

Up the wall then moving right and up at the crux. On my first attempt to lead it I got crossed up while eye-balling the chains and fell. The top bolt (an unnecessary bolt IMO) wasn't there then and I took a big arc down to my belayer (Anthony Bishop). Whilst I was flushing out the adrenaline Matthew Brooks rapped down and bolted the fun out of it. Got it easy second try...

FA: Michael Woodrow & Anthony Bishop

At top of gully above Sluts Wall. Scramble up corner below grey wall then left around bulge to finish

FA: Andrew Stevens & Barry Russell, 1990

Well protected line on left side of buttress to the right of Grey Arete. Climb easily up the rib with the big trench to the wall at top on left with the shallow double corner. Good wires in the left corner then up to jugs and around right to follow the diagonal right leading line to the top and DRB. FA soloed.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman & Mike Law, 1983

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. May be run out.

Originally started off the same ledge as 'No Joy', but has had a direct start added. Up the wall passing a bolt to break (gear), then up past three more bolts to chains.

The original route starts up the 8m mossy, juggy face of Little Jumble Gully to the ledge where Underseige & Keystones originally started. Pitch 2 is the obvious crack and groove in the grey/orange wall between Underseige & Keystones

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1984

Best way to do Keystones. Start up Underseige clipping bolt to the break (gear), then traverse right to the ledge. Follow ramp up to Keystones. 2nd bolt can be clipped from the corner on right before stepping back to the line directly below it.

Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.

FA: Peter Stebbins & Matthew Brooks, 1991

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up atete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by ring bolt to rap station

Start: just left of poxbow under obvious corner

Pro is spaced, a fall before the small slot (small cam, medium nut) would probably be a grounder. Did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for me!

FA: Michael Woodrow & Ian Campbell

The obvious crack/corner line on the left of the face around left of Oxbow. The crux is at about 1/2 height, moving off the face and right facing corner and onto the arete of this corner. A critical cam (#1 [Red] BD Camalot in one orientation only) can be found to protect this move. Continue into the scoop above and follow the beautiful flake out right to a tricky exit move.

As for Poxbow past the crux then finish on left arete (as for Blind Sox) rather than traversing right on the flake (FA Solo)

FA: Robin Miller, 1986

Appears to start up 'Split Images', cross through 'Law Enforcer' through the overlap and finishing up 'Poxbow' variant?

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

Start as for Split Images and then continue as for Law Enforcer

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Slit Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

FA: Matthew Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1991

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

  1. 33m (6)

  2. 33m (6)

  3. 33m (6)

  4. 30m (6) Crux pitch!

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

Activity

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