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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad, Boulder and other styles
Long/Lat: 144.595906, -37.369374
|2||Limbo Direct Finish||11||30m|
good beginner trad lead
Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'. Has recently had additional bolts added. There are some natural pros for extra protection.
Good link up. Original climbed SH to its fourth bolt then right (crux) to join Green Alliance below overlap. Several recent ascents have gained the overlap at undercling and traversed right to GA which provides great climbing at 23.
The Green Alliance
Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.
Sluts Have No Honour
Up the wall then moving right and up at the crux. One my first attempt to lead it I got crossed up while eye-balling the chains and fell. The top bolt (an unnecessary bolt IMO) wasn't there then and I took a big arc down to my belayer (Anthony Bishop). Whilst I was flushing out the adrenaline Matthew Brooks rapped down and bolted the fun out of it.n Got it easy second try...
FA: Michael Woodrow and Anthony Bishop
|8||A Dose of the Politicians||15||25m|
|9||Return of the Fush||9||20m|
Silent Assassin / The Silent Assasin
Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.
Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. May be run out.
Originally started off the same ledge as 'No Joy', but has had a direct start added. Up the wall passing a bolt to break (gear), then up past three more bolts to chains.
Keystones / Wall R of No Joy
Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.
FA: Peter Stebbins, Matthew Brooks, 1991
|17 to 18||210m,|
Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up atete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.
State of Shock
up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by ring bolt to rap station
Start: just left of poxbow under obvious corner
Pro is spaced, a fall before the small slot (small cam, medium nut) would probably be a grounder. Did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for me!
FA: Michael Woodrow and Ian Campbell
|20||Split Images Variant||21||320m,|
Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall
Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Slit Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes and finish on the Poxbow ledge.
FA: Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1991
Pitch lengths are definitely inflated
Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top
Spit the dummy
Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R
|26||A Soft Touch||12||25m|
|27||One Hump or Two||12||375m|
Start at base of wall and traverse up and right to finish as per "Four Digits"
Stand start on crimpy dishes, big move to giant jug, then two committing sloper moves to top out. You can sit start the problem at the same grade.
FA: @jimmy_stephens, 2009
Sit start with opposing side pulls; one on arete and one on face. Head straight up.
FA: Rob Cotton, 18th Jan
Sit start the arete with high crimp and left side pull. Don't use the chockstone to the right. Fun but contrived.
FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015
Crouching Michael, Praying Mantle
Climb the chockstone. From good jugs, campus between good holds to mantle. Some might call this a bad landing and uninspiring moves... they would be right.
FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015
Open project 2
Sit star with side pull, head up to under long and top out.
|5||Spit the dummy||20m|
|9||Return of the Fush||20m|
|11||Limbo Direct Finish||30m|
|12||A Soft Touch||25m|
|One Hump or Two||375m|
|15||A Dose of the Politicians||25m|
|17 to 18||Keystones||210m,|
|20||State of Shock||225m,|
|21||Sluts Have No Honour||15m|
|Split Images Variant||320m,|
|V3||Crouching Michael, Praying Mantle||2m|
|25||The Green Alliance||15m|
|Open project 2|