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Table of contents

1. Lower Tier 35 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.595924, -37.369244


Follow the "Emergency Only" Trail west from the car park. When the Omega Block trail branches off up hill, continue straight for another 40m to reach the right side of Lower Tier. Routes are listed from the far end (Leaky Bucket area) to the end closest to the car park (Oxbow area).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Limbo 10 Trad 78m
2 Limbo Direct Finish 11 Unknown 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Open Project

Start at base of wall and traverse up and right to finish as per "Four Digits"

Boulder Project
4 Open project 2

Sit star with side pull, head up to under long and top out.

Boulder Project
5 Leaky Bucket

Stand start on crimpy dishes, big move to giant jug, then two committing sloper moves to top out. You can sit start the problem at the same grade.

FA: @jimmy_stephens, 2009

V2 Boulder 4m
6 Four digits

Sit start with opposing side pulls; one on arete and one on face. Head straight up.

FA: Rocot, 2015

V3 Boulder 4m
7 Arete

Sit start the arete with high crimp and left side pull. Don't use the chockstone to the right. Fun but contrived.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V2 Boulder 4m
8 Crouching Michael, Praying Mantle

Climb the chockstone. From good jugs, campus between good holds to mantle. Some might call this a bad landing and uninspiring moves... they would be right.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V3 Boulder 2m
9 A Soft Touch

Named because of the furry handholds! Starts 2m left of Grey Arete at the foot of the slab. Up right leading crack to overlap. Step up left onto slab below overhang. Up ramp to break overhang on the right almost joining Grey Arête before heading up and left to ledge.

FA: Rupert Freeman, Jerry Kupfer, 2002

12 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * Grey Arete

good beginner trad lead

10 Trad 32m
11 Biker Mice From Mars

Contrived. Up the wall between Grey Arete and Slut's Honour, placing gear on the left. At the ledge go directly over the ledge on the right where the boulder rests. Up right of the slab to the top.

FA: @wonderdog,Anthony Bishop, Julian Keane, 1994

18 Unknown 32m
12 * Slut's Honour

Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'. Has recently had additional bolts added. There are some natural pros for extra protection.

23 Sport 17m, 4
13 Slut's Alliance

Good link up. Original climbed SH to its fourth bolt then right (crux) to join Green Alliance below overlap. Several recent ascents have gained the overlap at undercling and traversed right to GA which provides great climbing at 23.

FA: 2004

24 Sport 18m, 6
14 The Green Alliance

Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.

25 Sport 15m
15 Sluts Have No Honour

Up the wall then moving right and up at the crux. One my first attempt to lead it I got crossed up while eye-balling the chains and fell. The top bolt (an unnecessary bolt IMO) wasn't there then and I took a big arc down to my belayer (Anthony Bishop). Whilst I was flushing out the adrenaline Matthew Brooks rapped down and bolted the fun out of it.n Got it easy second try...

FA: Michael Woodrow and Anthony Bishop

21 Sport 15m
16 A Dose of the Politicians 15 Trad 25m
17 Return of the Fush 9 Trad 20m
18 Silent Assassin / The Silent Assasin

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

22 Sport 20m, 2
19 * Unprofessional Conduct

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. May be run out.

21 Trad 20m
20 * Underseige

Originally started off the same ledge as 'No Joy', but has had a direct start added. Up the wall passing a bolt to break (gear), then up past three more bolts to chains.

23 Sport 12m, 4
21 No Joy 18 Trad 20m
22 Keystones / Wall R of No Joy

Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.

FA: Peter Stebbins, Matthew Brooks, 1991

17 to 18 Sport 10m, 2
23 Blind Sox

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up atete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

15 Trad 30m
24 * No Joy- State Of Shock link up 20 Unknown 20m
25 State of Shock

up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by ring bolt to rap station

Start: just left of poxbow under obvious corner

20 Mixed 25m, 2
26 Blind Justice

Pro is spaced, a fall before the small slot (small cam, medium nut) would probably be a grounder. Did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for me!

FA: Michael Woodrow and Ian Campbell

16 R Mixed 40m, 2
27 * Poxbow 17 Trad 30m
28 Sox Glo 16 Trad 29m
29 Split Images Variant

Appears to start up 'Split Images', cross through 'Law Enforcer' through the overlap and finishing up 'Poxbow' variant?

21 Mixed 20m, 3
30 * Split Images

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

16 Mixed 20m, 2
31 ** Law Enforcer

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Slit Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1991

19 Mixed 20m, 4
32 Oxbow

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

  1. 33m (6)

  2. 33m (6)

  3. 33m (6)

  4. 30m (6) Crux pitch!

6 Trad 130m 4
33 Dummy bidder

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

8 Trad 20m
34 Spit the dummy

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

5 Trad 20m
35 * One Hump or Two 12 Trad 75m 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5 Spit the dummy Trad 20m
6 Oxbow Trad 130m 4
8 Dummy bidder Trad 20m
9 Return of the Fush Trad 20m
10 * Grey Arete Trad 32m
Limbo Trad 78m
11 Limbo Direct Finish Unknown 30m
12 A Soft Touch Trad 25m
* One Hump or Two Trad 75m 3
15 A Dose of the Politicians Trad 25m
Blind Sox Trad 30m
16 Sox Glo Trad 29m
* Split Images Mixed 20m, 2
16 R Blind Justice Mixed 40m, 2
17 * Poxbow Trad 30m
17 to 18 Keystones Sport 10m, 2
18 Biker Mice From Mars Unknown 32m
No Joy Trad 20m
19 ** Law Enforcer Mixed 20m, 4
20 * No Joy- State Of Shock link up Unknown 20m
State of Shock Mixed 25m, 2
V2 Arete Boulder 4m
Leaky Bucket Boulder 4m
21 Sluts Have No Honour Sport 15m
Split Images Variant Mixed 20m, 3
* Unprofessional Conduct Trad 20m
22 Silent Assassin Sport 20m, 2
V3 Crouching Michael, Praying Mantle Boulder 2m
Four digits Boulder 4m
23 * Slut's Honour Sport 17m, 4
* Underseige Sport 12m, 4
24 Slut's Alliance Sport 18m, 6
25 The Green Alliance Sport 15m
? Open Project Boulder Project
Open project 2 Boulder Project