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Table of contents

1. Lower Tier 33 routes in Cliff

Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.595906, -37.369374


Follow the "Emergency Only" Trail west from the car park. When the Omega Block trail branches off up hill, continue straight for another 40m to reach the right side of Lower Tier.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Limbo 10Trad 78m
2 Limbo Direct Finish 11Unknown 30m
3 * Grey Arete

good beginner trad lead

10Trad 32m
4 * Slut's Honour

Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'. Has recently had additional bolts added. There are some natural pros for extra protection.

23Sport 17m, 4
5 Slut's Alliance

Good link up. Original climbed SH to its fourth bolt then right (crux) to join Green Alliance below overlap. Several recent ascents have gained the overlap at undercling and traversed right to GA which provides great climbing at 23.

FA: 2004

24Sport 18m, 6
6 The Green Alliance

Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.

25Sport 15m
7 Sluts Have No Honour

Up the wall then moving right and up at the crux. One my first attempt to lead it I got crossed up while eye-balling the chains and fell. The top bolt (an unnecessary bolt IMO) wasn't there then and I took a big arc down to my belayer (Anthony Bishop). Whilst I was flushing out the adrenaline Matthew Brooks rapped down and bolted the fun out of it.n Got it easy second try...

FA: Michael Woodrow and Anthony Bishop

21Sport 15m
8 A Dose of the Politicians 15Trad 25m
9 Return of the Fush 9Trad 20m
10 Silent Assassin / The Silent Assasin

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

22Mixed 20m, 2
11 * Unprofessional Conduct

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. May be run out.

21Trad 20m
12 Underseige

Originally started off the same ledge as 'No Joy', but has had a direct start added. Up the wall passing a bolt to break (gear), then up past three more bolts to chains.

23Mixed 12m, 4
13 No Joy 18Trad 20m
14 Keystones / Wall R of No Joy

Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.

FA: Peter Stebbins, Matthew Brooks, 1991

17 to 18Sport 10m, 2
15 Blind Sox

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up atete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

15Trad 30m
16 State of Shock

up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by ring bolt to rap station

Start: just left of poxbow under obvious corner

20Mixed 25m, 2
17 Blind Justice

Pro is spaced, a fall before the small slot (small cam, medium nut) would probably be a grounder. Did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for me!

FA: Michael Woodrow and Ian Campbell

17 RMixed 40m, 2
18 * Poxbow 17Trad 30m
19 Sox Glo 16Trad 29m
20 Split Images Variant

Appears to start up 'Split Images', cross through 'Law Enforcer' through the overlap and finishing up 'Poxbow' variant?

21Mixed 20m, 3
21 * Split Images

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

18Mixed 20m, 2
22 ** Law Enforcer

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Slit Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1991

19Mixed 20m, 4
23 Oxbow

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

  1. 33m (6)

  2. 33m (6)

  3. 33m (6)

  4. 30m (6) Crux pitch!

6Trad 130m 4
24 Dummy bidder

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

8Trad 20m
25 Spit the dummy

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

5Trad 20m
26 A Soft Touch 12Trad 25m
27 * One Hump or Two 12Trad 75m 3
28 Open Project

Start at base of wall and traverse up and right to finish as per "Four Digits"

Boulder Project
29 V2 Block

Stand start on crimpy dishes, big move to giant jug, then two committing sloper moves to top out. You can sit start the problem at the same grade.

FA: @jimmy_stephens, 2009

V2Boulder 4m
30 Four digits

Sit start with opposing side pulls; one on arete and one on face. Head straight up.

FA: Rob Cotton, 18th Jan

V3Boulder 4m
31 Arete

Sit start the arete with high crimp and left side pull. Don't use the chockstone to the right. Fun but contrived.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V2Boulder 4m
32 Crouching Michael, Praying Mantle

Climb the chockstone. From good jugs, campus between good holds to mantle. Some might call this a bad landing and uninspiring moves... they would be right.

FA: @mikeyhitchcock, 2015

V3Boulder 2m
33 Open project 2

Sit star with side pull, head up to under long and top out.

Boulder Project

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5 Spit the dummy Trad 20m
6 Oxbow Trad 130m 4
8 Dummy bidder Trad 20m
9 Return of the Fush Trad 20m
10 * Grey Arete Trad 32m
Limbo Trad 78m
11 Limbo Direct Finish Unknown 30m
12 A Soft Touch Trad 25m
* One Hump or Two Trad 75m 3
15 A Dose of the Politicians Trad 25m
Blind Sox Trad 30m
16 Sox Glo Trad 29m
17 Blind Justice Mixed 40m, 2
* Poxbow Trad 30m
17 to 18 Keystones Sport 10m, 2
18 No Joy Trad 20m
* Split Images Mixed 20m, 2
19 ** Law Enforcer Mixed 20m, 4
20 State of Shock Mixed 25m, 2
V2 Arete Boulder 4m
V2 Block Boulder 4m
21 Sluts Have No Honour Sport 15m
Split Images Variant Mixed 20m, 3
* Unprofessional Conduct Trad 20m
22 Silent Assassin Mixed 20m, 2
V3 Crouching Michael, Praying Mantle Boulder 2m
Four digits Boulder 4m
23 * Slut's Honour Sport 17m, 4
Underseige Mixed 12m, 4
24 Slut's Alliance Sport 18m, 6
25 The Green Alliance Sport 15m
? Open Project Boulder Project
Open project 2 Boulder Project