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Table of contents

1. Lower Tier 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.595906, -37.369374

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Limbo 10Trad 78m vicki 6 years ago

heaps easy

Sabu 8 years ago

Walked off after the first pitch....

2 Limbo Direct Finish 11Unknown 30m
3 * Grey Arete

good beginner trad lead

10Trad 32m Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

Seconded Kara, barefoot. Very nice.

adam demmert 1 years ago

Second Cath

4 * Slut's Honour

Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'. Has recently had additional bolts added.

23Mixed 31m, 4 Simon Madden 11 months ago

A bit discontinuous but some very sweet moves. Two laps.

Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

Gear on flash. First 23 clean, seemed soft but not enough experience to know.

5 Slut's Alliance

Good link up. Climb SA to it's second bolt then right (crux) to join Green Alliance just below overlap.

FA: 2004

24Sport 18m, 4
6 * The Green Alliance 25Sport 15m David McKelvie 5 years ago

Seems hard...holds broken off?

. 8 years ago

Sharp, thin, hard, squeeze job...

7 Sluts Have No Honour

Up the wall then moving right and up at the crux. One my first attempt to lead it I got crossed up while eye-balling the chains and fell. The top bolt (an unnecessary bolt IMO) wasn't there then and I took a big arc down to my belayer (Anthony Bishop). Whilst I was flushing out the adrenaline Matthew Brooks rapped down and bolted the fun out of it.n Got it easy second try...

FA: Michael Woodrow and Anthony Bishop

21Sport 15m Constantine Dritsas 1 years ago

Pity its so short. Nice two move crux.

Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

Lap to retrieve gear. Used a different sequence, still awkward.

8 A Dose of the Politicians 15Trad 25m Gareth Graham 6 years ago

Icky slippery green everywhere

9 Return of the Fush 9Trad 20m James 2 years ago

Simple warmup.

Gareth Graham 9 years ago

ewwww....mossy!

10 Silent Assassin / The Silent Assasin

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

22Mixed 20m, 2 Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

Getting gear back for Kate. Used a completely different sequence to last time.

Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

Done. Cool fingery moves.

11 Unprofessional Conduct

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. May be run out.

21Trad 20m Neil Monteith 10 years ago

1 move wonder. Cool runout.

. 10 years ago

seconded neilo at the chockstone meet up

12 No Joy 18Trad 20m
13 Blind Sox

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up atete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

15Trad 30m
14 State of Shock

up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by ring bolt to rap station

Start: just left of poxbow under obvious corner

20Mixed 15m, 2 Anthony Cuskelly 11 months ago

Retrieving gear (had a long sling left on the anchor, made it easier).

Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

A bit exciting at the top. Funky friction corner bridging.

15 Blind Justice

Pro is spaced, a fall before the small slot (small cam, medium nut) would probably be a grounder. Did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for me!

FA: Michael Woodrow and Ian Campbell

17 RMixed 40m, 2 Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

Reasonable. Pro is there when it's needed.

Matthew Coleman 1 years ago

GOod once past the moss. pretty straightforward. easy if 17 grade

16 * Poxbow 17Trad 30m Anthony Cuskelly 11 months ago

Lapping.

Anthony Cuskelly 11 months ago

Putting up gear for others.

17 Sox Glo 16Trad 29m Anthony Cuskelly 12 months ago

I can't put this down as an onsight, there's no new climbing in it, but a reasonable variation fo...

matt schnabl 6 years ago

first for the day with eva and kristina

18 * Split Images Variant

Appears to start up 'Split Images', cross through 'Law Enforcer' through the overlap and finishing up 'Poxbow' variant?

21Mixed 20m, 3 . 8 years ago

A winner. Quite soft at the grade though.

19 * Split Images

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

18Mixed 20m, 2 Anthony Cuskelly 12 months ago

Laps for laughs.

Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

Warmup with Kara (and so she could do 'State of Shock').

20 * Law Enforcer

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Slit Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1991

19Sport 20m, 4 James Ramsay 1 years ago

Started from 5m below ledge above Poxbow (transfered from Oxbow)

Matthew Coleman 1 years ago

Very enjoyable. Started couple metres left of first rb

21 Oxbow

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

  1. 33m (6)

  2. 33m (6)

  3. 33m (6)

  4. 30m (6) Crux pitch!

6Trad 130m James Ramsay 1 years ago

Transferred to Law Enforcer 5m below ledge above Poxbow

Anthony 3 years ago

Only did 1st pitch and a half. Looked average after that.

22 Dummy bidder

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arĂȘte at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arĂȘte and up to the top

8Trad 20m
23 Keystones / Wall R of No Joy

Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.

FA: Peter Stebbins, Matthew Brooks, 1991

17 to 18Sport 10m, 2 Zac Howard 1 years ago

Did when sun came in to your eyes just as you reach up into crux, couldn't see a thing, easy clim...

Matthew Coleman 1 years ago

short easy sun in the eyes sucked

24 Spit the dummy

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

5Trad 20m
25 Underseige

Originally started off the same ledge as 'No Joy', but has had a direct start added. Up the wall passing a bolt to break (gear), then up past three more bolts to chains.

23Mixed 12m, 4 Anthony Cuskelly 12 months ago

[10] Finally - first shot of the day, went exactly to plan!

Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

[9] Nearly there. Need to go to sidepull crimp before moving right hand, then really focus on pul...

26 A Soft Touch 12Trad 25m
27 One Hump or Two 12Trad 75m Anthony Cuskelly 1 years ago

Easy. Long, but nothing amazing.

adam demmert 1 years ago

Fun route done as 2 big pitches.

28 V2 Block

Left of "Grey Arete" down the walking trail, there is a large boulder with the top covered in moss, just left a small cave. Stand start on crimpy dishes, big move to giant jug, then two committing sloper moves to top out. Good fun.

V2Boulder 4m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5 Spit the dummy Trad 20m
6 Oxbow Trad 130m
8 Dummy bidder Trad 20m
9 Return of the Fush Trad 20m
10 * Grey Arete Trad 32m
Limbo Trad 78m
11 Limbo Direct Finish Unknown 30m
12 A Soft Touch Trad 25m
One Hump or Two Trad 75m
15 A Dose of the Politicians Trad 25m
Blind Sox Trad 30m
16 Sox Glo Trad 29m
17 Blind Justice Mixed 40m, 2
* Poxbow Trad 30m
17 to 18 Keystones Sport 10m, 2
18 No Joy Trad 20m
* Split Images Mixed 20m, 2
19 * Law Enforcer Sport 20m, 4
20 State of Shock Mixed 15m, 2
V2 V2 Block Boulder 4m
21 Sluts Have No Honour Sport 15m
* Split Images Variant Mixed 20m, 3
Unprofessional Conduct Trad 20m
22 Silent Assassin Mixed 20m, 2
23 * Slut's Honour Mixed 31m, 4
Underseige Mixed 12m, 4
24 Slut's Alliance Sport 18m, 4
25 * The Green Alliance Sport 15m