Omega Block Rock climbing61 routes in cliff
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Most routes have lower-offs, otherwise scramble carefully down the back of the block (about 15m R of Witch).
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves!
Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.
FA: Andrew Thompson & Greg Child (with 1 bolt!), 1978
Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SDs start at the same grade.
FA: Reuben Bennett-Daly, 2003
Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor. Crux hold damaged but has been repeated since.
FA: Mark Rewi, 2014
Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.
This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.
Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming!
FA: Matt Brooks, 2000
Start up Bop for 2 bolts, move left and finish up 'Satanic Verses' Direct. Probably 26 (easier than SV original and HS original), but very nice.
FA: Alistair Robertson, 2000