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Approach

Routes from Hawker to Broomstick start from an uneven ledgy area above an 8-10m lower clifflet. Several people have stuffed up and taken the plummet. Take care, and stick clip 1st bolts.

Descent notes

Most routes have lower-offs, otherwise scramble carefully down the back of the block (about 15m R of Witch).

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
7 * Hawker Trad 15m

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1968

2
18 Size Matters Sport 8m, 3

Start as for "Good Things" and climb direct past 2FH. Move left to "Wee Ripper" anchors.

FA: Ian Boorman, 2013

3

Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper. Somewhat usurped by LM but worthwhile. Adds 4m to Wee Ripper. Thin moves Diagonally past RB bring jugs on WR to hand. Finish up the original. Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper

FA: Mark Atkinson & Mark Rewi, 2012

4
17 * Wee Ripper Sport 12m, 2

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

FA: Joy Fletcher. 1990s?, 1982

5
20 * An Evil Brew Mixed 12m, 1

Cruxy.

Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

FA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1990

6
21 ** Powder Hound Trad 30m

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'. Up wall for 3m then diag R across Black Magic to Bloodline, up this for 2m then diag R to diagonal crack. Up crack and go R around bulges. Up a little to horizontal break which leads R to final blunt arete. Probably all bolts once you hit Bloodline.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter. Early 80s?, 1982

7
15 R * Black Magic Trad 20m

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

FA: Calvin Ho, 1968

8
22 ** Lola V Sport 15m, 4

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware. Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings, or an even better option is to step R again to join the LH of Satan past it's last bolt.

FA: Mike Law & early 80s?, 1982

9
23 ** Bloodline Sport 20m

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves!

Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

FA: Andrew Thompson & Greg Child (with 1 bolt!), 1978

10
25 * Methotrexate Sport 25m

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 3rd bolt on Bop till You Drop. Down and down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick.

FA: Mikl Law, 1981

11

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SVs start at the same grade.

FA: Reuben Bennett-Daly, 2003

12
28 * What Lies Beneath Sport 30m

Completes the trilogy of excellent girdles on the left wall. Taking in the cruxes of most of the routes and requiring rope trickery and an attentive belayer to guarantee the safety of your ankles this is unlikely to gain too much attention... certainly not a route for a busy weekend! Start at Left Hand of Satan then very thin moves to gain the sloper and traverse on Satanic Verses until the large pocket. Easier moves right via Bop and Bewitched to gain the jugs on Broomstick at its third clip. Soak up the lactic and continue the charge right via Hollow Screams Original crux to finish up Boogie or Boogie RHV.

FA: Mark Rewi

13
28 ** Between Good and Evil Sport 18m, 4

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and optional #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor. Crux hold damaged but has been repeated since.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2014

14

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.

15
26 ** Satanic Verses Sport 25m

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming!

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

16
26 ** Satan said Dance Sport 20m

Start up Bop for 2 bolts, move left and finish up 'Satanic Verses' Direct. Probably 26 (easier than SV original and HS original), but very nice. Traversing left higher (above the large pocket on SV) is an excellent and more sustained variant at 26.

FA: Alistair Robertson, 2000

17
25 ** Bop Till You Drop Sport 22m

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

18
24 ** Bewitched Sport 21m

Another good route, this time just slightly harder than 'Broomstick', although the crux is still the bouldery start!

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

FA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1993

19

Bouldery 24. desperate

FA: Mike Law, 1979

20

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals.

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick' then up right and direct through scoop via RBs and optional #2 camalot to DBB. Rebolted 2015.

FA: A bit of a group effort through the late noughties!, 2000

21
26 Depravity Sport 20m

Another link up for when you have finished the rest. Climb Broomstick to jugs. Extend third bolt then traverse right to join the crux of HS original. Once through the difficulties finish as per Boogie RHV. More sustained than HS original.

22

Surely the last (almost) independent line on this cliff?! Hard start off block immediately below camouflaged ring to boulder hanging arete and corner between Broomstick and Hollow Screams. From first jug near top of corner push back right past second ring to climb direct to the poor stance at the Hollow Screams 'half moon' jug (the big jug rests out left on broomstick and at the stance are both out). Finish via Hollow Screams original 26 crux.

Set by Mark Rewi

23
28 to 29 ** Hollow Screams Direct Sport 22m

The hardest route around 'Melbourne'.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder. 29 if climbed direct but some will succumb to temptation to rest up right in the scoop or on the jugs out left at the same level, both of which are probably 28.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1999

24

Meant to be ok.

Start: Start as for Boogie and traverse left across scoop to join broomstick. Has also been climbed diagonally up left from hollow screams to join Voodoo People at the scoop. Excellent sustained 23 though a little run out.

FA: Nick Taylor early 80s, 2000

25

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP. Crux bolt replaced 2015 after the original glue in started to move!

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

26
21 * (Unnamed) Unknown 21m
27
21 *** Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 25m, 6

FIFTH BOLT HAS BEEN REPLACED 17/04/16

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

FA: Mike Law & Ian Ravenscroft. early 80s, 2000

28

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2000

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2005

29
20 ** Warlock Mixed 35m, 3

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

30

An area 'classic'. Victoria's first 17, with a crux arguably deserving of at least a grade harder than that. Steep but juggy start as for 'Wishful thinking', then up the obvious crack all the way to the top.

This direct start is now the standard way to do the climb, but 'Witch Original Start' started as for 'Romulus' and traversed across left to the crack.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1964

31

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

32

Start up 'Witch', then move right and up past an awkwardly-positioned bolt (not as far right as 'Wishful Thinking').

33
16 * Wishful Thinking Mixed 21m, 1

Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top.

FA: Mike Law & Ian Ravenscroft, 1982

34

The way 'Witch' was originally climbed started as for 'Romulus' and moved left into the crack. Now superseded by the direct start.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1964

35
18 * Time Child Trad 20m

Start up 'Romulus', moving left to clip bolt on 'Wishful Thinking', then up right past a crack.

36
10 Romulus Trad 12m

FA: Peter Jackson & Steve Craddock, 1962

37
8 Remus Trad 12m

FA: Steve Craddock & Peter Jackson, 1962

38
19 Spellbound Mixed 10m, 1

Start off boulders under the single high carrot bolt.

May need a good brushing as the lichen and moss has reclaimed most of it.

39
14 Gun Club Trad 10m
40
12 Sze Trad 15m
41
9 Humping the Camel Trad 18m

Straight up the wall between 'Sze' and 'Drain Pipes'.

42
8 Drain Pipes Trad 18m
43
5 Jugs and jury Trad 16m

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

44
18 Next to Impossible Unknown 18m
45
18 Impossible Unknown 18m
46
18 * Tyranny and Mutation Unknown 16m
47
20 Cultasaurous Erectus Unknown 16m
48
49
50
10 Pockets Unknown 10m
51
14 Blue Oyster Wall Unknown 10m
52
20 Career of Evil Unknown 20m
53
14 * Nosferatu Unknown 10m
54
11 XTCherie Unknown 10m
55
24 Thundering Guns Trad 10m

Bouldery wall L of HS, 2BRs.

Start: Start 2m L of HS.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1991

56

It's hard to see how this is any different to Boogie.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

57
21 First Touch Sport 25m

Almost not worth recording as it's been almost completely superseded. Then again, many 'Melbourne' locals will probably become desperate enough to do it at some point.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Paul Cuthbert, 1994

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