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Approach

Routes from Hawker to Broomstick start from an uneven ledgy area above an 8-10m lower clifflet. Several people have stuffed up and taken the plummet. Take care, and stick clip 1st bolts.

Descent notes

Most routes have lower-offs, otherwise scramble carefully down the back of the block (about 15m R of Witch).

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1968

Start as for "Good Things" and climb direct past 2FH. Move right to "Wee Ripper" anchors.

FA: Ian Boorman, 2013

Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper. Somewhat usurped by LM but worthwhile. Adds 4m to Wee Ripper. Thin moves Diagonally past RB bring jugs on WR to hand. Finish up the original. Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper

FA: Mark Atkinson & Mark Rewi, 2012

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

FA: Joy Fletcher. 1990s?, 1982

Cruxy.

Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

FA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1990

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'. Up wall for 3m then diag R across Black Magic to Bloodline, up this for 2m then diag R to diagonal crack. Up crack and go R around bulges. Up a little to horizontal break which leads R to final blunt arete. Probably all bolts once you hit Bloodline.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter. Early 80s?, 1982

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

FA: Calvin Ho, 1968

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware. Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings, or an even better option is to step R again to join the LH of Satan past it's last bolt.

FA: Mike Law & early 80s?, 1982

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves!

Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

FA: Andrew Thompson & Greg Child (with 1 bolt!), 1978

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 4th bolt on Bop till You Drop. Slightly down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick. A better alternative is to climb diagonally up and right from BTYDs 4th bolt (more sustained, same grade).

FA: Mikl Law, 1981

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SVs start at the same grade.

FA: Reuben Bennett-Daly, 2003

Completes the trilogy of excellent girdles on the left wall. Taking in the cruxes of most of the routes and requiring rope trickery and an attentive belayer to guarantee the safety of your ankles this is unlikely to gain too much attention... certainly not a route for a busy weekend! Start at Left Hand of Satan then very thin moves to gain the sloper and traverse on Satanic Verses until the large pocket. Easier moves right via Bop and Bewitched to gain the jugs on Broomstick at its third clip. Soak up the lactic and continue the charge right via Hollow Screams Original crux to finish up Boogie or Boogie RHV.

FA: Mark Rewi

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and optional #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor. Crux hold damaged but has been repeated since.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2014

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming!

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

Start up Bop for 3 bolts, then move down and left into large pocket on SV. Finish up Satanic Verses Direct. Easier than SV original and HS original, but very nice. Traversing left higher (above the large pocket on SV) is an excellent and more sustained variant also at 26. A large nut can be placed after the last bolt if you don't like the run out to the top.

FA: Alistair Robertson, 2000

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

Another good route, this time just slightly harder than 'Broomstick', although the crux is still the bouldery start!

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

FA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1993

Bouldery 24, desperate to break then easy.

FA: Mike Law, 1979

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals.

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick' then up right and direct through scoop via RBs and optional #2 camalot to DBB. Rebolted 2015.

FA: A bit of a group effort through the late noughties!, 2000

Another link up for when you have finished the rest. Climb Broomstick to jugs. Extend third bolt then traverse right to join the crux of HS original. Once through the difficulties finish as per Boogie RHV. More sustained than HS original. Could be closer to 27.

Depravity into Wolf Variant.

Surely the last (almost) independent line on this cliff?! Hard start off block immediately below camouflaged ring to boulder hanging arete and corner between Broomstick and Hollow Screams. From first jug near top of corner push back right past second ring to climb direct to the poor stance at the Hollow Screams 'half moon' jug (the big jug rests out left on broomstick and at the stance are both out). Finish via Hollow Screams original 26 crux.

Set by Mark Rewi

Variant finish to Hollow Screams Original eliminating the jug and flake to right of the arete. Cool climbing and spicy runout makes this a fun way to stiffen up Depravity, The Howling or Hollow Screams Direct without changing their grades. Becomes the main event in Day of the Wolf. Gain the undercling mid crux in HSO then climb direct up arete/face to gain the hanging scoop (jug and flake to right out - and out of reach). Finish up Voodoo People headwall.

Bouldery wall L of HS, 2BRs.

Start: Start 2m L of HS.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1991

Not the hardest route around 'Melbourne'.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder. 29 if climbed direct (Boogie pillar out for hands and feet) but some will succumb to temptation to rest up right in the scoop or on the jugs out left at the same level, both of which are probably 28.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1999

29 version of HSD into Wolf Variant instead of HSO.

Good value with 2 quite distinct options.

Start: As for Boogie and traverse left across scoop to join broomstick.

Has also been climbed diagonally up left from hollow screams to join Voodoo People at the scoop (marked in topo). This version is an excellent sustained 23 though a little run out. A suspiciously uniform edge left of the sharp crimps on HS and an ancient rusted carrot in the lower scoop suggests this may have been the original way it was climbed.

FA: Nick Taylor early 80s, 2000

HSO to mid crux then Wolf Variant Finish.

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP. Crux bolt replaced 2015 after the original glue in started to move!

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

FIFTH BOLT HAS BEEN REPLACED 17/04/16

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of Melbourne. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

FA: Mike Law & Ian Ravenscroft. early 80s, 2000

Almost not worth recording as it's been almost completely superseded. Then again, many 'Melbourne' locals will probably become desperate enough to do it at some point.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Paul Cuthbert, 1994

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2000

FA: 2005

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

An area 'classic'. Victoria's first 17, with a crux arguably deserving of at least a grade harder than that. Steep but juggy start as for 'Wishful thinking', then up the obvious crack all the way to the top.

This direct start is now the standard way to do the climb, but 'Witch Original Start' started as for 'Romulus' and traversed across left to the crack.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1964

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

Start up 'Witch', then move right and up past an awkwardly-positioned bolt (not as far right as 'Wishful Thinking').

Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top.

FA: Mike Law & Ian Ravenscroft, 1982

The way 'Witch' was originally climbed started as for 'Romulus' and moved left into the crack. Now superseded by the direct start.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1964

Up 'Romulus' to ledge below bolt on 'Wishful Thinking'. Up on right side of bolt to finger crack (bomber nut placement), avoiding the temptation to bridge across the 'Romulus' gap, then continue using crack or thin edges until jugs are reached.

FA: Peter Stebbins & Daniel Brooks, 1991

FA: Peter Jackson & Steve Craddock, 1962

FA: Steve Craddock & Peter Jackson, 1962

Start off boulders under the single high carrot bolt.

May need a good brushing as the lichen and moss has reclaimed most of it.

Straight up the wall between 'Sze' and 'Drain Pipes'.

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

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