Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

5/10/11: whoever did these topos - they are crap. Half the routes are totally wrong.

1/12/12: if you notice something that needs fixing feel free to fix it. Contact site admin if you need Editor permissions.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
7 Hawker Trad 15m

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst, 1968

2
18 Size Matters Sport 8m, 3

Start as for "Good Things" and climb direct past 2FH. Move left to "Wee Ripper" anchors.

FA: Ian Boorman, 2013

3

Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper. Somewhat usurped by LM but worthwhile. Adds 4m to Wee Ripper. Thin moves Diagonally past RB bring jugs on WR to hand. Finish up the original. Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper

FA: Mark Atkinson, Mark Rewi, 2012

4
17 Wee Ripper Sport 12m

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

FA: Joy Fletcher. 1990s?, 2000

5
20 An Evil Brew Mixed 12m, 1

Cruxy.

Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1990

6
21 ** Powder Hound Trad 30m

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter. Early 80s?, 2000

7
15 R Black Magic Trad 20m

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

FA: Calvin Ho, 1968

8
22 Lola V Sport 15m, 5

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware.

Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings.

FA: Mike Law, early 80s?, 2000

9
23 * Bloodline Sport 20m

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves!

Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

FA: Andrew Thompson, Greg Child (with 1 bolt!), 1978

10
25 ** Methotrexate Sport 25m

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline'.

11

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SDs start at the same grade.

FA: Reuben Bennett-Daly, 2003

12
28 * Between Good and Evil Sport 18m, 4

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor. Crux hold damaged but has been repeated since.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2014

13

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top.

14
26 ** Satanic Verses Trad 25m

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

15
26 ** Satan said Dance Sport 20m

Start up Bop for 2 bolts, move left and finish up 'Satanic Verses' Direct. Probably 26 (easier than SV original and HS original), but very nice.

FA: Alistair Robertson, 2000

16
25 ** Bop Till You Drop Trad 22m

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

17
24 * Bewitched Sport 21m

Another good route, this time just slightly harder than 'Broomstick', although the crux is still the bouldery start!

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1993

18
23 to 24 ** The Broomstick / Broomstick Sport 21m

Broken hold at the start means the climb is now more like grade 25. As i havnt dont a lot of 25's myself, this grade was a concensus of other stronger climbers. [Garbage. It's bouldery 23.]

FA: Mike Law, 1982

19

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals.

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick' then up right and direct through scoop via FHs to DBB.

FA: A bit of a group effort through the late noughties!, 2000

20
26 Depravity Unknown 20m

Another link up for when you have finished the rest. Climb Broomstick to jugs. Extend third bolt then traverse right to join the crux of HS original. Once through the difficulties finish as per Boogie RHV. More sustained than HS original.

21
28 to 29 * Hollow Screams Direct Sport 22m

The hardest route around 'Melbourne'.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder. 29 if climbed direct but some will succumb to temptation to move up right into scoop for a rest which is probably 28.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1999

22

Meant to be ok.

Start: Start as for Boogie and traverse left across scoop to join broomstick.

FA: Nick Taylor early 80s, 2000

23

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

24
21 * (Unnamed) Unknown 21m
25
21 *** Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 30m, 6

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft. early 80s, 2000

26

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2000

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2005

27
20 ** Warlock Mixed 35m, 3

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

28
17 ** Witch Trad 21m

An area 'classic'.

29
15 Witch Direct Start Unknown 8m
30

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

32
16 * Wishful Thinking Trad 21m

The best easy route on 'Omega Block'.

33
18 Time Child Trad 20m

Mossy

34
5 Romulus Trad 12m
35
4 Remus Trad 12m
36
19 Spellbound Trad 10m
37
14 Gun Club Trad 10m
38
12 Sze Trad 15m
39
8 Drain Pipes Trad 18m
40
5 Jugs and jury Trad 16m

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

41
18 Gumslinger Unknown 7m
42
18 A Rook Unknown 7m
43
18 A Knight Unknown 8m
44
18 Next to Impossible Unknown 18m
45
18 Impossible Unknown 18m
46
18 Tyranny and Mutation Unknown 16m
47
20 Cultasaurous Erectus Unknown 16m
48
49
50
10 Pockets Unknown 10m
51
14 Blue Oyster Wall Unknown 10m
52
20 Career of Evil Unknown 20m
53
14 Nosferatu Unknown 10m
54
11 XTCherie Unknown 10m
55
22 ** From Her To Eternity Unknown 14m

FA: Michael Woodrow

56
18 Biker Mice From Mars Unknown 32m
57
24 Thundering Guns Trad 10m

Bouldery wall L of HS, 2BRs.

Start: Start 2m L of HS.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1991

59
9 Humping the Camel Trad 18m
60

It's hard to see how this is any different to Boogie.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

61
21 First Touch Sport 25m

Almost not worth recording as it's been almost completely superseded. Then again, many 'Melbourne' locals will probably become desperate enough to do it at some point.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Paul Cuthbert, 1994