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Description

5/10/11: whoever did these topos - they are crap. Half the routes are totally wrong.

1/12/12: if you notice something that needs fixing feel free to fix it. Contact site admin if you need Editor permissions.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
7 Hawker Trad 15m

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst, 1968

2
18 Size Matters Sport 8m, 3

Start as for "Good Things" and climb direct past 2FH. Move left to "Wee Ripper" anchors.

FA: Ian Boorman, 2013

3

Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper. Somewhat usurped by LM but worthwhile. Adds 4m to Wee Ripper. Thin moves Diagonally past RB bring jugs on WR to hand. Finish up the original. Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper

FA: Mark Atkinson, Mark Rewi, 2012

4
17 Wee Ripper Sport 12m

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

FA: Joy Fletcher. 1990s?, 2000

5
20 An Evil Brew Mixed 12m, 1

Cruxy.

Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1990

6
21 ** Powder Hound Trad 30m

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter. Early 80s?, 2000

7
15 R Black Magic Trad 20m

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

FA: Calvin Ho, 1968

8
22 X Lola V Sport 15m, 5

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware.

Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings.

FA: Mike Law, early 80s?, 2000

9
22 * Bloodline Sport 20m

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either.

Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

FA: Andrew Thompson, Greg Child (with 1 bolt!), 1978

10
25 ** Methotrexate Sport 25m

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline'.

11

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Seems to be settling in at 28. Certainly much harder than SV Direct.

FA: Reuben Bennett-Daly, 2003

12
29 * Between Good and Evil Sport 18m, 4

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2014

13

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top.

14
26 ** Satanic Verses Trad 25m

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

15
26 ** Satan said Dance Sport 20m

Start up Bop for 2 bolts, move left and finish up 'Satanic Verses' Direct. Probably 26 (easier than SV original and HS original), but very nice.

FA: Alistair Robertson, 2000

16
25 ** Bop Till You Drop Trad 22m

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

17
24 * Bewitched Sport 21m

Another good route, this time just slightly harder than 'Broomstick', although the crux is still the bouldery start!

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1993

18
23 to 24 ** The Broomstick / Broomstick Sport 21m

Broken hold at the start means the climb is now more like grade 25. As i havnt dont a lot of 25's myself, this grade was a concensus of other stronger climbers. [Garbage. It's bouldery 23.]

FA: Mike Law, 1982

19
24 * Broomstick RHV Unknown 20m
20

Maybe harder/easier ... depends on what sequence you use.

21

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

22
21 * (Unnamed) Unknown 21m
23
21 *** Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 30m, 6

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft. early 80s, 2000

24
20 ** Warlock Mixed 35m, 3

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

25

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2000

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2005

26
17 ** Witch Trad 21m

An area 'classic'.

27
15 Witch Direct Start Unknown 8m
28

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

30
16 * Wishful Thinking Trad 21m

The best easy route on 'Omega Block'.

31
18 Time Child Trad 20m

Mossy

32
5 Romulus Trad 12m
33
4 Remus Trad 12m
34
19 Spellbound Trad 10m
35
14 Gun Club Trad 10m
36
12 Sze Trad 15m
37
8 Drain Pipes Trad 18m
38
5 Jugs and jury Trad 16m

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

39
18 Gumslinger Unknown 7m
40
18 A Rook Unknown 7m
41
18 A Knight Unknown 8m
42
18 Next to Impossible Unknown 18m
43
18 Impossible Unknown 18m
44
18 Tyranny and Mutation Unknown 16m
45
20 Cultasaurous Erectus Unknown 16m
46
47
48
10 Pockets Unknown 10m
49
14 Blue Oyster Wall Unknown 10m
50
20 Career of Evil Unknown 20m
51
14 Nosferatu Unknown 10m
52
11 XTCherie Unknown 10m
53
22 ** From Her To Eternity Unknown 14m

FA: Michael Woodrow

54
18 Biker Mice From Mars Unknown 32m
55
24 Thundering Guns Trad 10m

Bouldery wall L of HS, 2BRs.

Start: Start 2m L of HS.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1991

56

Meant to be ok.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Nick Taylor early 80s, 2000

58
24 * Voodoo People Trad 22m

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals.

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

FA: A bit of a group effort through the late noughties!, 2000

59
9 Humping the Camel Trad 18m
60

It's hard to see how this is any different to Boogie.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

61
29 * Hollow Screams Sport 22m

The hardest route around 'Melbourne'.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1999

62
21 First Touch Sport 25m

Almost not worth recording as it's been almost completely superseded. Then again, many 'Melbourne' locals will probably become desperate enough to do it at some point.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Paul Cuthbert, 1994