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Table of contents

1. Omega Block 62 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.596172, -37.369510

Description:

5/10/11: whoever did these topos - they are crap. Half the routes are totally wrong.

1/12/12: if you notice something that needs fixing feel free to fix it. Contact site admin if you need Editor permissions.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hawker

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst, 1968

7Trad 15m
2 Size Matters

Start as for "Good Things" and climb direct past 2FH. Move left to "Wee Ripper" anchors.

FA: Ian Boorman, 2013

18Sport 8m, 3
3 Good Things Come in Small Packages

Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper. Somewhat usurped by LM but worthwhile. Adds 4m to Wee Ripper. Thin moves Diagonally past RB bring jugs on WR to hand. Finish up the original. Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper

FA: Mark Atkinson, Mark Rewi, 2012

18Sport 12m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Wee Ripper

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

FA: Joy Fletcher. 1990s?, 2000

17Sport 12m
5 An Evil Brew

Cruxy.

Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1990

20Mixed 12m, 1
6 ** Powder Hound

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter. Early 80s?, 2000

21Trad 30m
7 Black Magic

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

FA: Calvin Ho, 1968

15 RTrad 20m
8 Lola V

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware.

Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings.

FA: Mike Law, early 80s?, 2000

22 XSport 15m, 5
9 * Bloodline

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either.

Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

FA: Andrew Thompson, Greg Child (with 1 bolt!), 1978

22Sport 20m
10 ** Methotrexate

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline'.

25Sport 25m
11 ** The Left Hand of Satan / Unnamed

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Seems to be settling in at 28. Certainly much harder than SV Direct.

FA: Reuben Bennett-Daly, 2003

28Sport 15m, 4
12 * Between Good and Evil

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2014

29Sport 18m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 * Satanic Verses (Direct)

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top.

27Sport 25m
14 ** Satanic Verses

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

26Trad 25m
15 ** Satan said Dance

Start up Bop for 2 bolts, move left and finish up 'Satanic Verses' Direct. Probably 26 (easier than SV original and HS original), but very nice.

FA: Alistair Robertson, 2000

26Sport 20m
16 ** Bop Till You Drop

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

25Trad 22m
17 * Bewitched

Another good route, this time just slightly harder than 'Broomstick', although the crux is still the bouldery start!

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1993

24Sport 21m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 ** The Broomstick / Broomstick

Broken hold at the start means the climb is now more like grade 25. As i havnt dont a lot of 25's myself, this grade was a concensus of other stronger climbers. [Garbage. It's bouldery 23.]

FA: Mike Law, 1982

23 to 24Sport 21m
19 * Broomstick RHV 24Unknown 20m
20 * Voodoo People

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals.

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

FA: A bit of a group effort through the late noughties!, 2000

24Sport 22m
21 Hollow Screams Direct

Maybe harder/easier ... depends on what sequence you use.

28Sport 23m
22 Hollow Screams Original / Boogie LHV / Boogie Direct

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

26Sport 20m
23 * (Unnamed) 21Unknown 21m
24 *** Boogie 'til You Puke

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft. early 80s, 2000

21Sport 30m, 6
25 ** Warlock

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

20Mixed 35m, 3
26 * Boogie Into Witch LHV Connection / Boogie into Witch LHF

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2000

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2005

23Sport 20m
27 ** Witch

An area 'classic'.

17Trad 21m
28 Witch Direct Start 15Unknown 8m
29 Witch Left Variant Finish / Witch LHF

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

23Unknown 7m
30 Witch Right Variant Finish / Witch RHF 21Unknown 8m
31 * Wishful Thinking

The best easy route on 'Omega Block'.

16Trad 21m
32 Time Child

Mossy

18Trad 20m
33 Romulus 5Trad 12m
34 Remus 4Trad 12m
35 Spellbound 19Trad 10m
36 Gun Club 14Trad 10m
37 Sze 12Trad 15m
38 Drain Pipes 8Trad 18m
39 Jugs and jury

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

5Trad 16m
40 Gumslinger 18Unknown 7m
41 A Rook 18Unknown 7m
42 A Knight 18Unknown 8m
43 Next to Impossible 18Unknown 18m
44 Impossible 18Unknown 18m
45 Tyranny and Mutation 18Unknown 16m
46 Cultasaurous Erectus 20Unknown 16m
47 * Dominance and Submission 21Unknown 18m
48 As Beautiful As A Foot 9Unknown 10m
49 Pockets 10Unknown 10m
50 Blue Oyster Wall 14Unknown 10m
51 Career of Evil 20Unknown 20m
52 Nosferatu 14Unknown 10m
53 XTCherie 11Unknown 10m
54 ** From Her To Eternity

FA: Michael Woodrow

22Unknown 14m
55 Biker Mice From Mars 18Unknown 32m
56 Thundering Guns

Bouldery wall L of HS, 2BRs.

Start: Start 2m L of HS.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1991

24Trad 10m
57 * Boogie- Broomstick link up / Boogie into Broomstick

Meant to be ok.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Nick Taylor early 80s, 2000

23Unknown 20m
58 * No Joy- State Of Shock link up 20Unknown 20m
59 Humping the Camel 9Trad 18m
60 Boogie 'til You Puke RHF

It's hard to see how this is any different to Boogie.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

23Sport 18m
61 * Hollow Screams

The hardest route around 'Melbourne'.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1999

29Sport 22m
62 First Touch

Almost not worth recording as it's been almost completely superseded. Then again, many 'Melbourne' locals will probably become desperate enough to do it at some point.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Paul Cuthbert, 1994

21Sport 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4 Remus Trad 12m
5 Jugs and jury Trad 16m
Romulus Trad 12m
7 Hawker Trad 15m
8 Drain Pipes Trad 18m
9 As Beautiful As A Foot Unknown 10m
Humping the Camel Trad 18m
10 Pockets Unknown 10m
11 XTCherie Unknown 10m
12 Sze Trad 15m
14 Blue Oyster Wall Unknown 10m
Gun Club Trad 10m
Nosferatu Unknown 10m
15 Black Magic Trad 20m
Witch Direct Start Unknown 8m
16 * Wishful Thinking Trad 21m
17 Wee Ripper Sport 12m
** Witch Trad 21m
18 A Knight Unknown 8m
A Rook Unknown 7m
Biker Mice From Mars Unknown 32m
Good Things Come in Small Packages Sport 12m, 3
Gumslinger Unknown 7m
Impossible Unknown 18m
Next to Impossible Unknown 18m
Size Matters Sport 8m, 3
Time Child Trad 20m
Tyranny and Mutation Unknown 16m
19 Spellbound Trad 10m
20 An Evil Brew Mixed 12m, 1
Career of Evil Unknown 20m
Cultasaurous Erectus Unknown 16m
* No Joy- State Of Shock link up Unknown 20m
** Warlock Mixed 35m, 3
21 * (Unnamed) Unknown 21m
*** Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 30m, 6
* Dominance and Submission Unknown 18m
First Touch Sport 25m
** Powder Hound Trad 30m
Witch Right Variant Finish Unknown 8m
22 * Bloodline Sport 20m
** From Her To Eternity Unknown 14m
Lola V Sport 15m, 5
23 Boogie 'til You Puke RHF Sport 18m
* Boogie Into Witch LHV Connection Sport 20m
* Boogie- Broomstick link up Unknown 20m
Witch Left Variant Finish Unknown 7m
23 to 24 ** The Broomstick Sport 21m
24 * Bewitched Sport 21m
* Broomstick RHV Unknown 20m
Thundering Guns Trad 10m
* Voodoo People Sport 22m
25 ** Bop Till You Drop Trad 22m
** Methotrexate Sport 25m
26 Hollow Screams Original Sport 20m
** Satan said Dance Sport 20m
** Satanic Verses Trad 25m
27 * Satanic Verses (Direct) Sport 25m
28 Hollow Screams Direct Sport 23m
** The Left Hand of Satan Sport 15m, 4
29 * Between Good and Evil Sport 18m, 4
* Hollow Screams Sport 22m