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Table of contents

1. Omega Block 57 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.596172, -37.369510

Approach:

Routes from Hawker to Broomstick start from an uneven ledgy area above an 8-10m lower clifflet. Several people have stuffed up and taken the plummet. Take care, and stick clip 1st bolts.

Descent Notes:

Most routes have lower-offs, otherwise scramble carefully down the back of the block (about 15m R of Witch).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hawker

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst, 1968

7 Trad 15m
2 Size Matters

Start as for "Good Things" and climb direct past 2FH. Move left to "Wee Ripper" anchors.

FA: Ian Boorman, 2013

18 Sport 8m, 3
3 Good Things Come in Small Packages

Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper. Somewhat usurped by LM but worthwhile. Adds 4m to Wee Ripper. Thin moves Diagonally past RB bring jugs on WR to hand. Finish up the original. Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper

FA: Mark Atkinson, Mark Rewi, 2012

18 Sport 12m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Wee Ripper

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

FA: Joy Fletcher. 1990s?, 1982

17 Sport 12m, 2
5 An Evil Brew

Cruxy.

Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1990

20 Mixed 12m, 1
6 ** Powder Hound

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'. Up wall for 3m then diag R across Black Magic to Bloodline, up this for 2m then diag R to diagonal crack. Up crack and go R around bulges. Up a little to horizontal break which leads R to final blunt arete. Probably all bolts once you hit Bloodline.

FA: Mike Law,Chris Baxter. Early 80s?, 1982

21 Trad 30m
7 Black Magic

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

FA: Calvin Ho, 1968

15 R Trad 20m
8 * Lola V

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware. Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings, or an even better option is to step R again to join the LH of Satan past it's last bolt.

FA: Mike Law,early 80s?, 1982

22 Sport 15m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 * Bloodline

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves!

Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

FA: Andrew Thompson, Greg Child (with 1 bolt!), 1978

23 Sport 20m
10 ** Methotrexate

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 3rd bolt on Bop till You Drop. Down and down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick.

FA: @mikllaw, 1981

25 Sport 25m
11 ** The Left Hand of Satan / Unnamed

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SVs start at the same grade.

FA: Reuben Bennett-Daly, 2003

27 Sport 15m, 4
12 * What Lies Beneath

Completes the trilogy of excellent girdles on the left wall. Taking in the cruxes of most of the routes and requiring rope trickery and an attentive belayer to guarantee the safety of your ankles this is unlikely to gain too much attention... certainly not a route for a busy weekend! Start at Left Hand of Satan then very thin moves to gain the sloper and traverse on Satanic Verses until the large pocket. Easier moves right via Bop and Bewitched to gain the jugs on Broomstick at its third clip. Soak up the lactic and continue the charge right via Hollow Screams Original crux to finish up Boogie or Boogie RHV.

FA: @mrewi

28 Sport 30m
13 * Between Good and Evil

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and optional #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor. Crux hold damaged but has been repeated since.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2014

28 Sport 18m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 ** Satanic Verses (Direct)

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.

27 Sport 25m
15 ** Satanic Verses

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming!

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

26 Sport 25m
16 ** Satan said Dance

Start up Bop for 2 bolts, move left and finish up 'Satanic Verses' Direct. Probably 26 (easier than SV original and HS original), but very nice. Traversing left higher (above the large pocket on SV) is an excellent and more sustained variant at 26.

FA: Alistair Robertson, 2000

26 Sport 20m
17 ** Bop Till You Drop

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

25 Sport 22m
18 * Bewitched

Another good route, this time just slightly harder than 'Broomstick', although the crux is still the bouldery start!

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1993

24 Sport 21m
19 ** The Broomstick / Broomstick

Bouldery 24. desperate

FA: Mike Law, 1979

23 Sport 21m
20 * Voodoo People / Broomstick RHV

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals.

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick' then up right and direct through scoop via RBs and optional #2 camalot to DBB. Rebolted 2015.

FA: A bit of a group effort through the late noughties!, 2000

24 Sport 22m
21 Depravity

Another link up for when you have finished the rest. Climb Broomstick to jugs. Extend third bolt then traverse right to join the crux of HS original. Once through the difficulties finish as per Boogie RHV. More sustained than HS original.

26 Sport 20m
22 The Howling Eliminate (Closed Project)

Surely the last (almost) independent line on this cliff?! Hard start off block immediately below camouflaged ring to boulder hanging arete and corner between Broomstick and Hollow Screams. From first jug near top of corner push back right past second ring to climb direct to the poor stance at the Hollow Screams 'half moon' jug (the big jug rests out left on broomstick and at the stance are both out). Finish via Hollow Screams original 26 crux.

Set by @mrewi

28 Sport Project 18m
23 ** Hollow Screams Direct

The hardest route around 'Melbourne'.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder. 29 if climbed direct but some will succumb to temptation to rest up right in the scoop or on the jugs out left at the same level, both of which are probably 28.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1999

28 to 29 Sport 22m
24 * Boogie- Broomstick link up / Boogie into Broomstick

Meant to be ok.

Start: Start as for Boogie and traverse left across scoop to join broomstick. Has also been climbed diagonally up left from hollow screams to join Voodoo People at the scoop. Excellent sustained 23 though a little run out.

FA: Nick Taylor early 80s, 2000

23 Sport 20m
25 * Hollow Screams Original / Boogie LHV / Boogie Direct

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP. Crux bolt replaced 2015 after the original glue in started to move!

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

26 Sport 20m
26 * (Unnamed) 21 Unknown 21m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 *** Boogie 'til You Puke

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft. early 80s, 2000

21 Sport 25m, 6
28 Boogie RHV / Boogie into Witch LHF

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2000

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2005

23 Sport 20m
29 ** Warlock

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

20 Mixed 35m, 3
30 ** Witch / Witch Direct Start

An area 'classic'. Victoria's first 17, with a crux arguably deserving of at least a grade harder than that. Steep but juggy start as for 'Wishful thinking', then up the obvious crack all the way to the top.

This direct start is now the standard way to do the climb, but 'Witch Original Start' started as for 'Romulus' and traversed across left to the crack.

FA: John Fahey,Peter Jackson, 22nd Apr

17 Trad 21m
31 Witch Left Variant Finish / Witch LHF

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

23 Unknown 7m
32 Witch Right Variant Finish / Witch RHF 21 Unknown 8m
33 * Wishful Thinking

Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft, 1982

16 Mixed 21m, 1
34 Witch Original Start

The way 'Witch' was originally climbed started as for 'Romulus' and moved left into the crack. Now superseded by the direct start.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 22nd Apr

17 Trad 21m
35 Time Child

Start up 'Romulus', moving left to clip bolt on 'Wishful Thinking', then up right past a crack.

18 Trad 20m
36 Romulus

FA: Peter Jackson and Steve Craddock, 1962

10 Trad 12m
37 Remus

FA: Steve Craddock and Peter Jackson, 1962

8 Trad 12m
38 Spellbound

Start off boulders under the single high carrot bolt.

May need a good brushing as the lichen and moss has reclaimed most of it.

19 Mixed 10m, 1
39 Gun Club 14 Trad 10m
40 Sze 12 Trad 15m
41 Humping the Camel

Straight up the wall between 'Sze' and 'Drain Pipes'.

9 Trad 18m
42 Drain Pipes 8 Trad 18m
43 Jugs and jury

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

5 Trad 16m
44 Next to Impossible 18 Unknown 18m
45 Impossible 18 Unknown 18m
46 Tyranny and Mutation 18 Unknown 16m
47 Cultasaurous Erectus 20 Unknown 16m
48 * Dominance and Submission 21 Unknown 18m
49 As Beautiful As A Foot 9 Unknown 10m
50 Pockets 10 Unknown 10m
51 Blue Oyster Wall 14 Unknown 10m
52 Career of Evil 20 Unknown 20m
53 Nosferatu 14 Unknown 10m
54 XTCherie 11 Unknown 10m
55 Thundering Guns

Bouldery wall L of HS, 2BRs.

Start: Start 2m L of HS.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1991

24 Trad 10m
56 Boogie 'til You Puke RHF

It's hard to see how this is any different to Boogie.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

23 Sport 18m
57 First Touch

Almost not worth recording as it's been almost completely superseded. Then again, many 'Melbourne' locals will probably become desperate enough to do it at some point.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Paul Cuthbert, 1994

21 Sport 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5 Jugs and jury Trad 16m
7 Hawker Trad 15m
8 Drain Pipes Trad 18m
Remus Trad 12m
9 As Beautiful As A Foot Unknown 10m
Humping the Camel Trad 18m
10 Pockets Unknown 10m
Romulus Trad 12m
11 XTCherie Unknown 10m
12 Sze Trad 15m
14 Blue Oyster Wall Unknown 10m
Gun Club Trad 10m
Nosferatu Unknown 10m
15 R Black Magic Trad 20m
16 * Wishful Thinking Mixed 21m, 1
17 Wee Ripper Sport 12m, 2
** Witch Trad 21m
Witch Original Start Trad 21m
18 Good Things Come in Small Packages Sport 12m, 3
Impossible Unknown 18m
Next to Impossible Unknown 18m
Size Matters Sport 8m, 3
Time Child Trad 20m
Tyranny and Mutation Unknown 16m
19 Spellbound Mixed 10m, 1
20 An Evil Brew Mixed 12m, 1
Career of Evil Unknown 20m
Cultasaurous Erectus Unknown 16m
** Warlock Mixed 35m, 3
21 * (Unnamed) Unknown 21m
*** Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 25m, 6
* Dominance and Submission Unknown 18m
First Touch Sport 25m
** Powder Hound Trad 30m
Witch Right Variant Finish Unknown 8m
22 * Lola V Sport 15m, 4
23 * Bloodline Sport 20m
Boogie 'til You Puke RHF Sport 18m
Boogie RHV Sport 20m
* Boogie- Broomstick link up Sport 20m
** The Broomstick Sport 21m
Witch Left Variant Finish Unknown 7m
24 * Bewitched Sport 21m
Thundering Guns Trad 10m
* Voodoo People Sport 22m
25 ** Bop Till You Drop Sport 22m
** Methotrexate Sport 25m
26 Depravity Sport 20m
* Hollow Screams Original Sport 20m
** Satan said Dance Sport 20m
** Satanic Verses Sport 25m
27 ** Satanic Verses (Direct) Sport 25m
** The Left Hand of Satan Sport 15m, 4
28 * Between Good and Evil Sport 18m, 4
The Howling Eliminate (Closed Project) Sport Project 18m
* What Lies Beneath Sport 30m
28 to 29 ** Hollow Screams Direct Sport 22m