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Showing all 19 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
7 Hawker

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1968

Trad 15m
20 An Evil Brew

Cruxy.

Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

FA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1990

Mixed 12m, 1
21 Powder Hound

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'. Up wall for 3m then diag R across Black Magic to Bloodline, up this for 2m then diag R to diagonal crack. Up crack and go R around bulges. Up a little to horizontal break which leads R to final blunt arete. Probably all bolts once you hit Bloodline.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter. Early 80s?, 1982

Trad 30m
15 R Black Magic

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

FA: Calvin Ho, 1968

Trad 20m
24 Thundering Guns

Bouldery wall L of HS, 2BRs.

Start: Start 2m L of HS.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1991

Trad 10m
20 Warlock

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

Mixed 35m, 3
17 Witch

An area 'classic'. Victoria's first 17, with a crux arguably deserving of at least a grade harder than that. Steep but juggy start as for 'Wishful thinking', then up the obvious crack all the way to the top.

This direct start is now the standard way to do the climb, but 'Witch Original Start' started as for 'Romulus' and traversed across left to the crack.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1964

Trad 21m
21 Witch Right Variant Finish

Start up 'Witch', then move right and up past an awkwardly-positioned bolt (not as far right as 'Wishful Thinking').

Mixed 15m, 1
16 Wishful Thinking

Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top.

FA: Mike Law & Ian Ravenscroft, 1982

Mixed 21m, 1
17 Witch Original Start

The way 'Witch' was originally climbed started as for 'Romulus' and moved left into the crack. Now superseded by the direct start.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1964

Trad 21m
18 Time Child

Up 'Romulus' to ledge below bolt on 'Wishful Thinking'. Up on right side of bolt to finger crack (bomber nut placement), avoiding the temptation to bridge across the 'Romulus' gap, then continue using crack or thin edges until jugs are reached.

FA: Peter Stebbins & Daniel Brooks, 1991

Mixed 20m, 1
10 Romulus

FA: Peter Jackson & Steve Craddock, 1962

Trad 12m
8 Remus

FA: Steve Craddock & Peter Jackson, 1962

Trad 12m
19 Spellbound

Start off boulders under the single high carrot bolt.

May need a good brushing as the lichen and moss has reclaimed most of it.

Mixed 10m, 1
14 Gun Club Trad 10m
12 Sze Trad 15m
9 Humping the Camel

Straight up the wall between 'Sze' and 'Drain Pipes'.

Trad 18m
8 Drain Pipes Trad 18m
5 Jugs and jury

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

Trad 16m

Showing all 19 routes.