Topo #379

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Route Grade Popularity Style
4 Wee Ripper

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade. Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

17 Sport 12m Unlink route
5 An Evil Brew

Cruxy. Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

20 Mixed 12m, 1 Unlink route
6 ** Powder Hound

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes. Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'.

21 Trad 30m Unlink route
7 Black Magic

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes! Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

15 Trad 20m Unlink route
8 Lola V

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware. Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings.

22 Sport 15m, 5 Unlink route
9 * Bloodline

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

22 Sport 20m Unlink route
10 ** Methotrexate

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route. Start: Start as for 'Bloodline'.

25 Sport 25m Unlink route

Topo #2713

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Route Grade Popularity Style
13 * Satanic Verses (Direct)

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top.

27 Sport 25m Unlink route

Topo #2714

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Route Grade Popularity Style
14 ** Satanic Verses

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up. Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder.

26 Trad 25m Unlink route
18 ** The Broomstick

Broken hold at the start means the climb is now more like grade 25. As i havnt dont a lot of 25's myself, this grade was a concensus of other stronger climbers. [Garbage. It's bouldery 23.]

23 to 24 Sport 21m Unlink route
16 ** Bop Till You Drop

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade. Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder.

25 Trad 22m Unlink route

Topo #377

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Route Grade Popularity Style
18 ** The Broomstick

Broken hold at the start means the climb is now more like grade 25. As i havnt dont a lot of 25's myself, this grade was a concensus of other stronger climbers. [Garbage. It's bouldery 23.]

23 to 24 Sport 21m Unlink route
24 *** Boogie 'til You Puke

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route. Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

21 Sport 30m, 6 Unlink route
25 ** Warlock

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory. Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

20 Mixed 35m, 3 Unlink route
20 * Voodoo People

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals. Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

24 Sport 22m Unlink route
16 ** Bop Till You Drop

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade. Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder.

25 Trad 22m Unlink route

Topo #375

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Route Grade Popularity Style
18 ** The Broomstick

Broken hold at the start means the climb is now more like grade 25. As i havnt dont a lot of 25's myself, this grade was a concensus of other stronger climbers. [Garbage. It's bouldery 23.]

23 to 24 Sport 21m Unlink route
24 *** Boogie 'til You Puke

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route. Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

21 Sport 30m, 6 Unlink route
25 ** Warlock

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory. Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

20 Mixed 35m, 3 Unlink route
27 ** Witch

An area 'classic'.

17 Trad 21m Unlink route
31 * Wishful Thinking

The best easy route on 'Omega Block'.

16 Trad 21m Unlink route
32 Time Child

Mossy

18 Trad 20m Unlink route
33 Romulus
5 Trad 12m Unlink route
34 Remus
4 Trad 12m Unlink route
35 Spellbound
19 Trad 10m Unlink route
36 Gun Club
14 Trad 10m Unlink route

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