Topo #379

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Route Grade Popularity Style
4 Wee Ripper

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade. Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

17 Sport 12m Unlink route
5 An Evil Brew

Cruxy. Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

20 Mixed 12m, 1 Unlink route
6 ** Powder Hound

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes. Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'. Up wall for 3m then diag R across Black Magic to Bloodline, up this for 2m then diag R to diagonal crack. Up crack and go R around bulges. Up a little to horizontal break which leads R to final blunt arete. Probably all bolts once you hit Bloodline.

21 Trad 30m Unlink route
7 Black Magic

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes! Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

15 R Trad 20m Unlink route
8 Lola V

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware. Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings, or an even better option is to step R again to join the LH of Satan past it's last bolt.

22 Sport 15m, 4 Unlink route
9 * Bloodline

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves! Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

23 Sport 20m Unlink route

Topo #2713

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Route Grade Popularity Style
13 ** Satanic Verses (Direct)

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.

27 Sport 25m Unlink route
12 * Between Good and Evil

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor. Crux hold damaged but has been repeated since.

28 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
9 * Bloodline

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves! Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

23 Sport 20m Unlink route
10 ** Methotrexate

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route. Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 3rd bolt on Bop till You Drop. Down and down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick.

25 Sport 25m Unlink route
11 ** The Left Hand of Satan

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SVs start at the same grade.

27 Sport 15m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #2714

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Route Grade Popularity Style
14 ** Satanic Verses

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up. Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming!

26 Sport 25m Unlink route
18 ** The Broomstick

Bouldery 23. desperate

23 Sport 21m Unlink route
16 ** Bop Till You Drop

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade. Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder.

25 Sport 22m Unlink route
13 ** Satanic Verses (Direct)

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.

27 Sport 25m Unlink route
19 * Voodoo People

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals. Start: Start as for 'Broomstick' then up right and direct through scoop via FHs to DBB.

24 Sport 22m Unlink route

Topo #377

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Route Grade Popularity Style
18 ** The Broomstick

Bouldery 23. desperate

23 Sport 21m Unlink route
25 *** Boogie 'til You Puke

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route. Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

21 Sport 25m, 6 Unlink route
27 ** Warlock

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory. Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

20 Mixed 35m, 3 Unlink route
19 * Voodoo People

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals. Start: Start as for 'Broomstick' then up right and direct through scoop via FHs to DBB.

24 Sport 22m Unlink route
16 ** Bop Till You Drop

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade. Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder.

25 Sport 22m Unlink route

Topo #375

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Route Grade Popularity Style
25 *** Boogie 'til You Puke

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route. Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

21 Sport 25m, 6 Unlink route
27 ** Warlock

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory. Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

20 Mixed 35m, 3 Unlink route
28 ** Witch

An area 'classic'.

17 Trad 21m Unlink route
32 * Wishful Thinking

Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top.

16 Mixed 21m, 1 Unlink route
33 Time Child

Mossy

18 Trad 20m Unlink route
34 Romulus
10 Trad 12m Unlink route
35 Remus
8 Trad 12m Unlink route
36 Spellbound
19 Trad 10m Unlink route
37 Gun Club
14 Trad 10m Unlink route

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