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Description

Coming along the track toward Omega Block, this is the first buttress of any substance. This buttress has some less-than-good routes, now some great new sport routes (on front of buttress) and some excellent bouldering. The fallen tree has recently disintegrated exposing a couple of previously lost problems. Note - all older existing routes are shown under crag title 'Gully behind Omega Block', these will be deleted.

Access issues

Coming along the track toward Omega Block, this is the first buttress of any substance. It is located right beside track.

Approach

Follow the track on the WEST side of the car park. Twenty metres down, follow the "Emergency Only" track. Keep walking about 200 meters and you'll pass by the buttress.

History

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Older exiting routes put up mostly in the 90's with originals (Straining Rail) going back to the 60's. Crag dragged kicking and screaming into current Camels era by the locals looking to disperse the crowds and to get more pitches in mid week!

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts south side (underneath) The Hull. Stand start with both hands on edges on lip (and/or poor slope underclings on lip) of the hull and establish feet with difficulty. Steeply up a couple of moves via poor slope pockets on the underside (crack up right out for hands) and an awesome heel/hand match to join TH. The slab on left is obviously out (but makes for an ok VE).

Start RH on low lip, LH on juggy pocket (old tick) ie all except hard first moves of Southside. Up into the Hull via a cool sequence. Was probably solid at the grade at V5... now V6 after the best hold on the lip got kicked off!

Start as Babylon but head left below small overlap to climb the underside of 'the hull'. Finish at monster jug up right after left hand flake jug. Slab on left out.

The hanging gardens of... Stand start on juggy hanging flake 3m Left of SR. Ascend jugs into mossy hanging corner. Stop when bored, filthy, soaking or scared. The jug horn up right is an obvious target.

Adds length only (and another link up for the wall!). Under Strain then quest left as per SR extension.

Start left hand lowest hold on straining rail flake and right just above it. Massive move to flake then as per under strain.

Eliminate. Climbs the underside of the Straining Rail. No knee bars or scums and no left hand use of flake (including the giant jug and top crimp). Hard. There are a few variants V8 to V9

Stand start with right hand only on the flake jug on Straining Rail. As per under strain no left hand use of the jug or flake making for a tricky sequence to finish up left. Could be V4.

Stand start with both hands on jug on Straining Rail. Finish as per that problem.

Same grade much more climbing... Really fun. Climb SR then easily left on jugs to cool sequence down into hanging corner and jugs on Babylon/The Hull. Move left to finish up the long moves of The Hull. Careful not to choke the last couple of moves!

Sit start at base of slopey rail (RH crimp, LH crimp under bulge- see topo). Head up and left to finish on jugs. Excellent.

Starting on the slopey rail. Span to the right and finish via right facing horn to jug, dyno to jug or up left facing flake. All worthwhile.

FA: Nick Sutter

Longer than most of the routes down here! The Long Road Home then as for SR extension.

Shoulder demolition factory! Climb HD into Positive Ape.

PS then SR extension. Adds a grade.

'Elevator door' stand start with the HD gaston right hand and left on the opposing gaston crimp (see start hold topo). Technical moves up left trending flake to jug (horn and jug on right are out). From jug traverse left to finish as for SR using that problems undercling flake jug. Probably a bit mean at V5.

It adds mileage to link PA into SRE and it's still possible to punt the last 2 moves!

As for PP but jug on flake and jug in roof all out. New beta is more technical than hard. Will see if subsequent ascents lead to a downgrade. Watch the landing!

Link Day of the Ape into Positive Ape.

Mega. Stand start in the pit down right as for Day of the Ape. Up left as for DOTA to gaston on HD. Epic shoulder press down into start of straining rail finishing via whichever of its variants pick your fancy. Quite a few tough moves in a row.

Stand start down right using minging ripples on prow below chockstones. Up to good RH layaway (no heel/toe in crack to right) then left to gain R end of HD traverse (crimp on L side of chockstone in but nil chockstone jugs or R side of chockstone). Punch up to jugs above (R facing ear and jugs on chockstone to right out). Can be climbed at V6 starting with LH on chockstone crimp, RH on good low layaway.

Stand start on the somewhat loose-ish block. Head straight up. Very easy moves between jugs. If the block/fridge comes free and you are under it you will be removed with a spatula and a bucket! Can be climbed from ground level at V2/3 (start holds in topo).

Ungrade-able horror (probably about 15 in the old scale!). Start the trench at ground level and butterfly jam, weep, rock gently in the corner towards the sunlight.

Line of ring bolts (x 4) on left side of nose, front of buttress. STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT Start in middle of undercut bulge (as for No Schmecking and Here Come the Bastards), boulder out left (crux) to stance on sloping shelf, up keeping (more or less) on left of nose, up short slab to lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway & Amanda Holloway, 2016

Original description taken from VCC North West VIC guide... historical reference only. Start 3m right of Chain on the nose of the blank buttress. POOR PRO. Past fixed wire (you might call it that?!) left and up to ledge. Straight up wall delicately above. SHAKY PRO. New bolted routes (Tough Love and Here Come the Bastards) make this route pretty much obsolete, retro bolt with full permission from M.Law.

FA: Mike Law & Steve Howde

Start in middle of undercut bulge, front of buttress (same as for Tough Love and No Schmecking). STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT. Bouldery start straight up over bulge, (look for big pockets on right) to dynamic move to jug on left, stance on ledge then straight up the slab with fantastic incuts and pockets. Same lower off as for Tough Love. Enjoy.

FA: Steve Holloway & Amanda Holloway, 2016

The hanging prow immediately left of the wide crack which is the route S-bend. Stick clip the first FH (old carrot with FH still to be removed) and boulder past this to the second FH where the difficulties ease. Keep veering slightly rightwards past another FH below the shallow groove. 2 bolt lower off over the top. Rebrushed and retrobolted by the FA 06/11/2016

Climb the short slab into the crack.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Co., 1992

Climb the short overhang and then head upwards past 3 old carrots.

Has been brushed enough to be (just) climbable but needs a rebolt.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Co.

Traverse (Left to Right) the overhanging lip from a sit start avoiding the obvious line of jugs 1m above lip. Hardest at the start. The higher line from a stand start is a fair (but mossy) V1ish warm up.

Long rising traverse starting on next tier above the V5 (access via juggy moss slab). Hard move or two starting on obvious low hold on nose, a bit dicky traversing above the chockstone then perfect pockets right for 5m to a go for it finish up the hung Arete. Really good rock!

No seriously, it is at least 50deg and probably easier than V1! Around right if PPP start on lowest jugs in cave, get back just off rising ground behind and surf the miss and jugs to victory.

Activity

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