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Description

3 blocks 50m downhill from the track below Break Like The Wind. Several good problems on downhill side of the largest to be written up and a couple of good steep lines on north facing arete.

Approach

A pad leads down from BLTW and will become more established if used.

History

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All problems likely done by Martin Lama and crew in the 90s of not before.

Routes

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Grade Route

Very low sit start on right facing jug at same level as NAs start jug and left hand on awkward jug feature... NOT the undercling above. A couple of powerful boxy moves via RH jug into LH underclings (crux) then longer moves by good flat tops lurking amongst the lichen. Good.

Sit start on obvious giant jug. Couple of steep moves on jugs then top out the lichen crusted rib (will be better if someone wants to clean the top out)

Stand start on obvious square cut right facing layaways at left end of face. Big move up left to jugs over pillow, then mantle. Don't step off until you're hands free.

Sit start with both hands on obvious low layaway jug. A couple of tech/power moves (edges to right are out but probably just make it harder anyway!) to gain layaway flake on stand start.

Ultra low start to OTFD with LH on obvious low layaway and RH on ear below start edges of OTFD. 2 hard moves to gain OTFDs start, finishing as for OTF, GSFP2 or Migration.

Sit start just left of OTFs flake using edges. Stand start goes at V3.

V4R/V5... Who knows. Bloody good though! As for OTF to its flake then continue left via scoop (sharp edges) to mantle off left. The detached block jugs are out.

Outrageous finish to Migration finishing direct above the scoop using a series of thin layaways and edges. Jugs left of scoop are out. High proud and not a good place to let go. With lots of pads and spotters its still only 60/40 that you won't get hurt. Anything less would almost certainly be costly. Can be approached from Out Too Far Direct SS at same grade or DOTLD at V6.

Start at jugs as for Sound of... but instead continue left after first sequence to gain obvious line of LH lay aways. Could feel a little lonely up there without a spot but gets easier the higher you go.

Sit start on obvious jugs just right of small corner. Up left to gain corner and layaway/gaston to top (which needs a sweep).

The crew reckon the start has to be a 6. Hard sit start at face between SOOHC and SOOHS with good LH layaway and low RH undercling/layaway. Tough moves to gain edges on lip and cool easy mantle.

Really good variant that avoids desperate first move on FTS. Stand start with LH on layaway as for FTS and RH on good but weirdly shaped edge/ear at shoulder height. Up via layaway, excellent edges and slopey top.

Outstanding! Adds 4m of V6 to Migration. Start up TCOIA then left via edges on FTS to join Migration via excellent technical sequence. Lip of Boulder and jugs on detached block are out.

Epic crag classic. Takes The Great Migration to new levels by starting up FTS and finishing up the insecure highball crux of GSFP2 when you are most boxed. Line up your ducks (and possibly your spotters). Time will declare grade... you probably want to be climbing V8 to minimise the chance of breaking something punting the finish.

Coretastic sit start direct under prow (again, stacking to LH layaway jug is out or about V2). Up via opposing side pulls to interesting mantle.

Micro problem starting just right of prow with good RH layaway/undercling and LH on choice of slimps (V1 if you can reach good LH layaway up high). Hard single move to lip then easy mantle.

Start on LH layaway jug. Pop crux to obvious RH jug and mantle finish.

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