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Table of contents

1. Omega Block Area 104 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.596215, -37.369504

Description:© (willmonks)

The main area

Approach:

Go through the town of Mt Macedon and continue for about another 3km. Turn L at the signpost to the Mt Macedon memorial cross.

About 500m in on this road there is a car park and information sign. Park here.

Walk up the track for about 450m. Where the track swings R towards the lookout, take the well-trodden pad that branches off to the L.

Continue to the boulders and then scramble down to the base of the Omega Block.

1.1. Lower Tier 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.595906, -37.369374

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Limbo 10Trad 78m
2 Limbo Direct Finish 11Unknown 30m
3 * Grey Arete

good beginner trad lead

10Trad 32m
4 * Slut's Honour

Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'. Has recently had additional bolts added. There are some natural pros for extra protection.

23Sport 17m, 4
5 Slut's Alliance

Good link up. Original climbed SH to its fourth bolt then right (crux) to join Green Alliance below overlap. Several recent ascents have gained the overlap at undercling and traversed right to GA which provides great climbing at 23.

FA: 2004

24Sport 18m, 6
6 The Green Alliance

Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.

25Sport 15m
7 Sluts Have No Honour

Up the wall then moving right and up at the crux. One my first attempt to lead it I got crossed up while eye-balling the chains and fell. The top bolt (an unnecessary bolt IMO) wasn't there then and I took a big arc down to my belayer (Anthony Bishop). Whilst I was flushing out the adrenaline Matthew Brooks rapped down and bolted the fun out of it.n Got it easy second try...

FA: Michael Woodrow and Anthony Bishop

21Sport 15m
8 A Dose of the Politicians 15Trad 25m
9 Return of the Fush 9Trad 20m
10 Silent Assassin / The Silent Assasin

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

22Mixed 20m, 2
11 * Unprofessional Conduct

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. May be run out.

21Trad 20m
12 No Joy 18Trad 20m
13 Blind Sox

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up atete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

15Trad 30m
14 State of Shock

up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by ring bolt to rap station

Start: just left of poxbow under obvious corner

20Mixed 15m, 2
15 Blind Justice

Pro is spaced, a fall before the small slot (small cam, medium nut) would probably be a grounder. Did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for me!

FA: Michael Woodrow and Ian Campbell

17 RMixed 40m, 2
16 * Poxbow 17Trad 30m
17 Sox Glo 16Trad 29m
18 Split Images Variant

Appears to start up 'Split Images', cross through 'Law Enforcer' through the overlap and finishing up 'Poxbow' variant?

21Mixed 20m, 3
19 * Split Images

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

18Mixed 20m, 2
20 ** Law Enforcer

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Slit Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1991

19Mixed 20m, 4
21 Oxbow

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

  1. 33m (6)

  2. 33m (6)

  3. 33m (6)

  4. 30m (6) Crux pitch!

6Trad 130m
22 Dummy bidder

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

8Trad 20m
23 Keystones / Wall R of No Joy

Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.

FA: Peter Stebbins, Matthew Brooks, 1991

17 to 18Sport 10m, 2
24 Spit the dummy

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

5Trad 20m
25 Underseige

Originally started off the same ledge as 'No Joy', but has had a direct start added. Up the wall passing a bolt to break (gear), then up past three more bolts to chains.

23Mixed 12m, 4
26 A Soft Touch 12Trad 25m
27 One Hump or Two 12Trad 75m
28 V2 Block

Left of "Grey Arete" down the walking trail, there is a large boulder with the top covered in moss, just left a small cave. Stand start on crimpy dishes, big move to giant jug, then two committing sloper moves to top out. Good fun.

V2Boulder 4m
29 *** Humpty Dumpty

Starting on the sloppy rail. Span to the right and head straight up.

FA: Nick Sutter

V8Boulder
30 ** Unknown

Starting on the slopy rail, head up and left.

V9Boulder

1.2. Outcrop below Black Magic 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 144.596030, -37.369587

Approach:

As for Witch (Omega Block). Walk down the cliffline from Boogie until you are directly below Black Magic

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Heat Seeker

Up to cave as for YW, but continue direct up a groove past a BR.

Start: Start as for YW.

FA: Matt Brooks, Chris Yeomans, 1991

21Trad 15m
2 Young Warriors

Groove to cave, R to chimney and up it. Swing L out of chimney beneath loose blocks over roof/arete, then up face.

Start: Start below and a bit L of chimney.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, Peter Stebbins, 1991

20Trad 16m
3 War Front

Looks dirty.

Start: Start to the R of the chimney.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, Peter Stebbins, 1991

18Trad 15m

1.3. Omega Block 61 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 144.596172, -37.369510

Description:

5/10/11: whoever did these topos - they are crap. Half the routes are totally wrong.

1/12/12: if you notice something that needs fixing feel free to fix it. Contact site admin if you need Editor permissions.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hawker

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst, 1968

7Trad 15m
2 Size Matters

Start as for "Good Things" and climb direct past 2FH. Move left to "Wee Ripper" anchors.

FA: Ian Boorman, 2013

18Sport 8m, 3
3 Good Things Come in Small Packages

Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper. Somewhat usurped by LM but worthwhile. Adds 4m to Wee Ripper. Thin moves Diagonally past RB bring jugs on WR to hand. Finish up the original. Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper

FA: Mark Atkinson, Mark Rewi, 2012

18Sport 12m, 3
4 Wee Ripper

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

FA: Joy Fletcher. 1990s?, 2000

17Sport 12m
5 An Evil Brew

Cruxy.

Start as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past a bolt to anchor above 'Wee Ripper'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1990

20Mixed 12m, 1
6 ** Powder Hound

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter. Early 80s?, 2000

21Trad 30m
7 Black Magic

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

FA: Calvin Ho, 1968

15 RTrad 20m
8 Lola V

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware.

Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings.

FA: Mike Law, early 80s?, 2000

22Sport 15m, 5
9 * Bloodline

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves!

Start: There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.

FA: Andrew Thompson, Greg Child (with 1 bolt!), 1978

23Sport 20m
10 ** Methotrexate

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline'.

25Sport 25m
11 ** The Left Hand of Satan / Unnamed

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SDs start at the same grade.

FA: Reuben Bennett-Daly, 2003

27Sport 15m, 4
12 * Between Good and Evil

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor. Crux hold damaged but has been repeated since.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2014

28Sport 18m, 4
13 * Satanic Verses (Direct)

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top.

27Sport 25m
14 ** Satanic Verses

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

26Trad 25m
15 ** Satan said Dance

Start up Bop for 2 bolts, move left and finish up 'Satanic Verses' Direct. Probably 26 (easier than SV original and HS original), but very nice.

FA: Alistair Robertson, 2000

26Sport 20m
16 ** Bop Till You Drop

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

25Trad 22m
17 * Bewitched

Another good route, this time just slightly harder than 'Broomstick', although the crux is still the bouldery start!

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, 1993

24Sport 21m
18 ** The Broomstick / Broomstick

Broken hold at the start means the climb is now more like grade 25. As i havnt dont a lot of 25's myself, this grade was a concensus of other stronger climbers. [Garbage. It's bouldery 23.]

FA: Mike Law, 1982

23 to 24Sport 21m
19 * Voodoo People / Broomstick RHV

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals.

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick' then up right and direct through scoop via FHs to DBB.

FA: A bit of a group effort through the late noughties!, 2000

24Sport 22m
20 Depravity

Another link up for when you have finished the rest. Climb Broomstick to jugs. Extend third bolt then traverse right to join the crux of HS original. Once through the difficulties finish as per Boogie RHV. More sustained than HS original.

26Unknown 20m
21 ** Hollow Screams Direct

The hardest route around 'Melbourne'.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder. 29 if climbed direct but some will succumb to temptation to move up right into scoop for a rest which is probably 28.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1999

28 to 29Sport 22m
22 * Boogie- Broomstick link up / Boogie into Broomstick

Meant to be ok.

Start: Start as for Boogie and traverse left across scoop to join broomstick.

FA: Nick Taylor early 80s, 2000

23Unknown 20m
23 Hollow Screams Original / Boogie LHV / Boogie Direct

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

26Sport 20m
24 * (Unnamed) 21Unknown 21m
25 *** Boogie 'til You Puke

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of 'Melbourne'. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft. early 80s, 2000

21Sport 30m, 6
26 * Boogie RHV / Boogie into Witch LHF

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2000

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2005

23Sport 20m
27 ** Warlock

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

20Mixed 35m, 3
28 ** Witch

An area 'classic'.

17Trad 21m
29 Witch Direct Start 15Unknown 8m
30 Witch Left Variant Finish / Witch LHF

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

23Unknown 7m
31 Witch Right Variant Finish / Witch RHF 21Unknown 8m
32 * Wishful Thinking

The best easy route on 'Omega Block'.

16Trad 21m
33 Time Child

Mossy

18Trad 20m
34 Romulus 5Trad 12m
35 Remus 4Trad 12m
36 Spellbound 19Trad 10m
37 Gun Club 14Trad 10m
38 Sze 12Trad 15m
39 Drain Pipes 8Trad 18m
40 Jugs and jury

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

5Trad 16m
41 Gumslinger 18Unknown 7m
42 A Rook 18Unknown 7m
43 A Knight 18Unknown 8m
44 Next to Impossible 18Unknown 18m
45 Impossible 18Unknown 18m
46 Tyranny and Mutation 18Unknown 16m
47 Cultasaurous Erectus 20Unknown 16m
48 * Dominance and Submission 21Unknown 18m
49 As Beautiful As A Foot 9Unknown 10m
50 Pockets 10Unknown 10m
51 Blue Oyster Wall 14Unknown 10m
52 Career of Evil 20Unknown 20m
53 Nosferatu 14Unknown 10m
54 XTCherie 11Unknown 10m
55 ** From Her To Eternity

FA: Michael Woodrow

22Unknown 14m
56 Biker Mice From Mars 18Unknown 32m
57 Thundering Guns

Bouldery wall L of HS, 2BRs.

Start: Start 2m L of HS.

FA: Matt Brooks, 1991

24Trad 10m
58 * No Joy- State Of Shock link up 20Unknown 20m
59 Humping the Camel 9Trad 18m
60 Boogie 'til You Puke RHF

It's hard to see how this is any different to Boogie.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

23Sport 18m
61 First Touch

Almost not worth recording as it's been almost completely superseded. Then again, many 'Melbourne' locals will probably become desperate enough to do it at some point.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

FA: Paul Cuthbert, 1994

21Sport 25m

1.4. Gully behind Omega 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 144.596342, -37.369642

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Straining Rail 12Unknown 20m
2 Too Humped to Pump 18Unknown
3 Break Like the Wind

Start left of arete and up face

FA: M Lama, H Singh-Dodd, R Pannell, 1992

12Trad 8m
4 Scenester

Start as for Break Like the Wind. Starts off small block, directly up left arete on small holds past FH (crux) to pocket and jugs to intermittent crack. Lower off above Low Life!

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil, 2014

18Mixed 8m, 1
5 Low Life!

On front face of small pinnacle right beside walking track before track goes uphill to Omega Block. Starts of sharp flake / jug in middle of face, straight up on small crimps and mono pocket past 2 x fixed hangers (Solo FA!! - M. Rewi - 7/11/2014)

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil, 2014

21Sport 8m, 2
6 Chain 19Unknown 20m
7 No Schmecking 21Unknown 20m
8 * John 19Unknown 20m
9 S-Bend 15Unknown 20m
10 The Snatch 18Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 Remus Trad 12m 1.3. Omega Block
5 Spit the dummy Trad 20m 1.1. Lower Tier
Jugs and jury Trad 16m 1.3. Omega Block
Romulus Trad 12m 1.3. Omega Block
6 Oxbow Trad 130m 1.1. Lower Tier
7 Hawker Trad 15m 1.3. Omega Block
8 Dummy bidder Trad 20m 1.1. Lower Tier
Drain Pipes Trad 18m 1.3. Omega Block
9 Return of the Fush Trad 20m 1.1. Lower Tier
As Beautiful As A Foot Unknown 10m 1.3. Omega Block
Humping the Camel Trad 18m 1.3. Omega Block
10 * Grey Arete Trad 32m 1.1. Lower Tier
Limbo Trad 78m 1.1. Lower Tier
Pockets Unknown 10m 1.3. Omega Block
11 Limbo Direct Finish Unknown 30m 1.1. Lower Tier
XTCherie Unknown 10m 1.3. Omega Block
12 A Soft Touch Trad 25m 1.1. Lower Tier
One Hump or Two Trad 75m 1.1. Lower Tier
Sze Trad 15m 1.3. Omega Block
Break Like the Wind Trad 8m 1.4. Gully behind Omega
Straining Rail Unknown 20m 1.4. Gully behind Omega
14 Blue Oyster Wall Unknown 10m 1.3. Omega Block
Gun Club Trad 10m 1.3. Omega Block
Nosferatu Unknown 10m 1.3. Omega Block
15 A Dose of the Politicians Trad 25m 1.1. Lower Tier
Blind Sox Trad 30m 1.1. Lower Tier
Black Magic Trad 20m 1.3. Omega Block
Witch Direct Start Unknown 8m 1.3. Omega Block
S-Bend Unknown 20m 1.4. Gully behind Omega
16 Sox Glo Trad 29m 1.1. Lower Tier
* Wishful Thinking Trad 21m 1.3. Omega Block
17 Blind Justice Mixed 40m, 2 1.1. Lower Tier
* Poxbow Trad 30m 1.1. Lower Tier
Wee Ripper Sport 12m 1.3. Omega Block
** Witch Trad 21m 1.3. Omega Block
17 to 18 Keystones Sport 10m, 2 1.1. Lower Tier
18 No Joy Trad 20m 1.1. Lower Tier
* Split Images Mixed 20m, 2 1.1. Lower Tier
War Front Trad 15m 1.2. Outcrop below Black Magic
A Knight Unknown 8m 1.3. Omega Block
A Rook Unknown 7m 1.3. Omega Block
Biker Mice From Mars Unknown 32m 1.3. Omega Block
Good Things Come in Small Packages Sport 12m, 3 1.3. Omega Block
Gumslinger Unknown 7m 1.3. Omega Block
Impossible Unknown 18m 1.3. Omega Block
Next to Impossible Unknown 18m 1.3. Omega Block
Size Matters Sport 8m, 3 1.3. Omega Block
Time Child Trad 20m 1.3. Omega Block
Tyranny and Mutation Unknown 16m 1.3. Omega Block
Scenester Mixed 8m, 1 1.4. Gully behind Omega
The Snatch Unknown 1.4. Gully behind Omega
Too Humped to Pump Unknown 1.4. Gully behind Omega
19 ** Law Enforcer Mixed 20m, 4 1.1. Lower Tier
Spellbound Trad 10m 1.3. Omega Block
Chain Unknown 20m 1.4. Gully behind Omega
* John Unknown 20m 1.4. Gully behind Omega
20 State of Shock Mixed 15m, 2 1.1. Lower Tier
Young Warriors Trad 16m 1.2. Outcrop below Black Magic
An Evil Brew Mixed 12m, 1 1.3. Omega Block
Career of Evil Unknown 20m 1.3. Omega Block
Cultasaurous Erectus Unknown 16m 1.3. Omega Block
* No Joy- State Of Shock link up Unknown 20m 1.3. Omega Block
** Warlock Mixed 35m, 3 1.3. Omega Block
V2 V2 Block Boulder 4m 1.1. Lower Tier
21 Sluts Have No Honour Sport 15m 1.1. Lower Tier
Split Images Variant Mixed 20m, 3 1.1. Lower Tier
* Unprofessional Conduct Trad 20m 1.1. Lower Tier
Heat Seeker Trad 15m 1.2. Outcrop below Black Magic
* (Unnamed) Unknown 21m 1.3. Omega Block
*** Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 30m, 6 1.3. Omega Block
* Dominance and Submission Unknown 18m 1.3. Omega Block
First Touch Sport 25m 1.3. Omega Block
** Powder Hound Trad 30m 1.3. Omega Block
Witch Right Variant Finish Unknown 8m 1.3. Omega Block
Low Life! Sport 8m, 2 1.4. Gully behind Omega
No Schmecking Unknown 20m 1.4. Gully behind Omega
22 Silent Assassin Mixed 20m, 2 1.1. Lower Tier
** From Her To Eternity Unknown 14m 1.3. Omega Block
Lola V Sport 15m, 5 1.3. Omega Block
23 * Slut's Honour Sport 17m, 4 1.1. Lower Tier
Underseige Mixed 12m, 4 1.1. Lower Tier
* Bloodline Sport 20m 1.3. Omega Block
Boogie 'til You Puke RHF Sport 18m 1.3. Omega Block
* Boogie RHV Sport 20m 1.3. Omega Block
* Boogie- Broomstick link up Unknown 20m 1.3. Omega Block
Witch Left Variant Finish Unknown 7m 1.3. Omega Block
23 to 24 ** The Broomstick Sport 21m 1.3. Omega Block
24 Slut's Alliance Sport 18m, 6 1.1. Lower Tier
* Bewitched Sport 21m 1.3. Omega Block
Thundering Guns Trad 10m 1.3. Omega Block
* Voodoo People Sport 22m 1.3. Omega Block
25 The Green Alliance Sport 15m 1.1. Lower Tier
** Bop Till You Drop Trad 22m 1.3. Omega Block
** Methotrexate Sport 25m 1.3. Omega Block
26 Depravity Unknown 20m 1.3. Omega Block
Hollow Screams Original Sport 20m 1.3. Omega Block
** Satan said Dance Sport 20m 1.3. Omega Block
** Satanic Verses Trad 25m 1.3. Omega Block
27 * Satanic Verses (Direct) Sport 25m 1.3. Omega Block
** The Left Hand of Satan Sport 15m, 4 1.3. Omega Block
28 * Between Good and Evil Sport 18m, 4 1.3. Omega Block
28 to 29 ** Hollow Screams Direct Sport 22m 1.3. Omega Block
V8 *** Humpty Dumpty Boulder 1.1. Lower Tier
V9 ** Unknown Boulder 1.1. Lower Tier