Cape Raoul Mostly trad climbing35 routes in crag
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Amazing, wild location.
2 hour walk to the top of the cliffs. About 800m after the tarn (the little pond, or dry grassy area depending on rain) the track forks. 100m to the left (east) is the lookout, definitely go here to get your bearings. However, access to the rap-in gully is about 30m to the RIGHT (south) of this track fork. Take this and you will see a poorly formed trail on the left of the track (East) here where the bush opens out some. Follow this off the track and after about 20m you will get to an obvious tunnel cut through trees. This takes you a further 15m to the dirty top of gully. Rap 30m off a tree (have a jumar or prussic for getting back out). Walk 300m across the slope following the orange tags and aiming to stay high. This should take you right to the base of Rain of Terror.
Where to stay
There is a privately run toilet (gold coin dontation) and campground ($5 pp) adjacent to the carpark. The owner is a nice guy, so be honest.
Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col.
Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).
The chimney L of Rain of Terror/Jihad to the top of the Wedding Cake.
FA: Douglas & Christie
Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:
70m Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake, maybe stay roped up for the first (northwestern) bit, to 2 bolt anchor.
abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.
Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Leave your walking shoes here.
60m 8. Place minimal pro on this (e.g. just 1 or 2 long slings around horns) to avoid drag, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.
38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney (sling and #2-3 cam for belay). Relatively protected places to cache food & drink are: (1) at the base of Jihad, (2) where you leave your walking shoes, and (3) at the base of Pole Dancer pitch 1.