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Amazing, wild location.


2 hour walk to the top of the cliffs. About 800m after the tarn (the little pond, or dry grassy area depending on rain) the track forks. Head to the RIGHT and you will see a poorly formed trail on the left of the track, approx half way to the lookout. There should be a cairn. Follow this off the track and after about 20m you will get to an obvious tunnel cut through trees. This takes you to the top of a dirty gully. Fix a 25m line off a tree (have a jumar or prussic for getting back out). Walk 300m or 20min across the slope following the orange tags and aiming to stay high. This should take you right to the base of Rain of Terror.

Where to stay

There is a privately run toilet (gold coin donation) and campground ($10 pp) adjacent to the carpark. The owner is a nice guy, so be honest.


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Grade Route

The terrible U bolted access pitch that lets you escape without having to fix a rope. More like climbing a rotting shipwreck than a cliff. There's even a bolted offwidth to finish.

The striking offwidth splitting the wide pinnacle as seen from the lookout. Hideous, grovelly and excellent. Take a plethora of #4s. Downclimb the chimney to the left to the rap sling.

FA: Chris Elliott, 28 Jan 2014

Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col.

Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).

Simon Mentz bolted the arête 2-3m R of Jihad. It has sucked a few people off route who wanted to do Jihad. DRB at the top.

FA: Simey

The chimney L of Rain of Terror/Jihad to the top of the Wedding Cake.

FA: Douglas & Christie

Thanks to Geoff Murray for the photo.

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

  1. Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake to 2 bolt anchor.

  2. Abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

  3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Squeeze through the slot to rubble ledge and big spike.

  4. 55m The Stegosaurus Pitch! Great fun. Place minimal pro on this to avoid drag, your primarily protecting the second, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

  5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney.

The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth.

1 16 25m
2 22 30m
  1. Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB.

  2. Sport. Fully bolted. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains.

FA: Simon Young, Garry Phillips & Alex Lewis, Nov 2010

FA: Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell & Andrew Irvine

FFA: 2003

FA: Simon Young, Owen Davis & Steve Goss

FFA: Nov 2010

FFA: Jake Bresnehan, Kim Robinson, Doug McConnell & Dean Rollins (alt), Nov 2008


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