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Approach

1hr 45min walk. About 800m after the tarn (the little pond) the track forks. 100m to the left (east) is the lookout, definitely go down here for a look to get your bearings. However, the access to the rap-in gully is about 30m to the RIGHT (south) from where the track forks. This gets you to where the bush opens out so you can walk easily left (east) off the track and after about 30m a well worn cut track appears and takes you through dense scrub for a further 20m to the top of the obvious gully. Rap 30m off a tree, leave a jumar at the base for getting back out, then walk 300m along and down to the base of Rain of Terror.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
17
4
82m
1

Routes

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Grade Route
2

The terrible U bolted access pitch that lets you escape without having to fix a rope. More like climbing a rotting shipwreck than a cliff. There's even a bolted offwidth to finish.

3
21 Ijtihad Trad 25m

The striking offwidth splitting the wide pinnacle as seen from the lookout. Hideous, grovelly and excellent. Take a plethora of #4s. Downclimb the chimney to the left to the rap sling.

FA: Chris Elliott, 2014

4
22 *** The Finger Of Blame Unknown 14m
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18 Rain Of Terror Trad 40m
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18 ** Jihad Trad 40m
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22 Simey's arete Trad 35m

Simon Mentz bolted the arête 2-3m R of Jihad. It has sucked a few people off route who wanted to do Jihad. DRB at the top.

FA: Simey

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16 DC Chimney Trad 60m

The chimney L of Rain of Terror/Jihad to the top of the Wedding Cake.

FA: Douglas & Christie

9

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

  1. 70m Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake, maybe stay roped up for the first (northwestern) bit, to 2 bolt anchor.

  2. abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

  3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Leave your walking shoes here.

  4. 60m 8. Place minimal pro on this (e.g. just 1 or 2 long slings around horns) to avoid drag, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

  5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney (sling and #2-3 cam for belay). Relatively protected places to cache food & drink are: (1) at the base of Jihad, (2) where you leave your walking shoes, and (3) at the base of Pole Dancer pitch 1.

10

The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth.

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22 *** Pole Dancer Mixed 55m, 12
  1. Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB.

  2. Sport. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains.

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23 *** Certified Wise Sport 40m

FA: Simon Young, Garry Phillips, Alex Lewis, 2010

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21 ** North Pole Sport 25m
14
21 ** Pole Axed Sport 40m

FA: Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell, Andrew Irvine

FFA: 2003

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26 * Diaster Master Unknown 45m

FA: Simon Young, Owen Davis, Steve Goss

FFA: 2010

19
24 Pole Position Trad 70m

FFA: Jake Bresnehan, Kim Robinson, Doug McConnell, Dean Rollins (alt), 2008

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