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Summary

Amazing, wild location.

Approach

2 hour walk to the top of the cliffs. About 800m after the tarn (the little pond, or dry grassy area depending on rain) the track forks. 100m to the left (east) is the lookout, definitely go here to get your bearings. However, access to the rap-in gully is about 30m to the RIGHT (south) of this track fork. Take this and you will see a poorly formed trail on the left of the track (East) here where the bush opens out some. Follow this off the track and after about 20m you will get to an obvious tunnel cut through trees. This takes you a further 15m to the dirty top of gully. Rap 30m off a tree (have a jumar or prussic for getting back out). Walk 300m across the slope following the orange tags and aiming to stay high. This should take you right to the base of Rain of Terror.

Where to stay

There is a privately run toilet (gold coin dontation) and campground ($5 pp) adjacent to the carpark. The owner is a nice guy, so be honest.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
17
4
82m
1

Routes

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Grade Route
2

The terrible U bolted access pitch that lets you escape without having to fix a rope. More like climbing a rotting shipwreck than a cliff. There's even a bolted offwidth to finish.

3
21 Ijtihad Trad 25m

The striking offwidth splitting the wide pinnacle as seen from the lookout. Hideous, grovelly and excellent. Take a plethora of #4s. Downclimb the chimney to the left to the rap sling.

FA: Chris Elliott, 2014

The Wedding Cake

4
23 *** The Finger Of Blame Unknown 11m
5
18 Rain Of Terror Trad 30m

Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col.

6
18 ** Jihad Trad 30m

Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).

7
22 ** Infidel Trad 35m

Simon Mentz bolted the arête 2-3m R of Jihad. It has sucked a few people off route who wanted to do Jihad. DRB at the top.

FA: Simey

8
16 DC Chimney Trad 60m 2

The chimney L of Rain of Terror/Jihad to the top of the Wedding Cake.

FA: Douglas & Christie

Tip of the cape

Thanks to Geoff Murray for the photo. www.geoffmurray.com

9

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

  1. 70m Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake, maybe stay roped up for the first (northwestern) bit, to 2 bolt anchor.

  2. abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

  3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Leave your walking shoes here.

  4. 60m 8. Place minimal pro on this (e.g. just 1 or 2 long slings around horns) to avoid drag, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

  5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney (sling and #2-3 cam for belay). Relatively protected places to cache food & drink are: (1) at the base of Jihad, (2) where you leave your walking shoes, and (3) at the base of Pole Dancer pitch 1.

10

The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth.

11
22 *** Pole Dancer Mixed 55m 2, 12
  1. Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB. A #5 gives peace of mind.

  2. Sport. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains.

12
23 *** Certified Wise Sport 40m 2

FA: Simon Young, Garry Phillips & Alex Lewis, 2010

13
21 ** North Pole Sport 25m
14
21 ** Pole Axed Sport 40m 2

FA: Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell & Andrew Irvine

FFA: 2003

15
26 * Diaster Master Unknown 45m 2

FA: Simon Young, Owen Davis & Steve Goss

FFA: 2010

18
19
24 Pole Position Trad 70m 4

FFA: Jake Bresnehan, Kim Robinson, Doug McConnell & Dean Rollins (alt), 2008

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