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Table of contents

1. Cape Raoul 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 147.795296, -43.238333

Unique Features And Strengths:

Amazing, wild location.

Approach:

2 hour walk to the top of the cliffs. About 800m after the tarn (the little pond, or dry grassy area depending on rain) the track forks. 100m to the left (east) is the lookout, definitely go here to get your bearings. However, access to the rap-in gully is about 30m to the RIGHT (south) of this track fork. Take this and you will see a poorly formed trail on the left of the track (East) here where the bush opens out some. Follow this off the track and after about 20m you will get to an obvious tunnel cut through trees. This takes you a further 15m to the dirty top of gully. Rap 30m off a tree (have a jumar or prussic for getting back out). Walk 300m across the slope following the orange tags and aiming to stay high. This should take you right to the base of Rain of Terror.

Where To Stay:

There is a privately run toilet (gold coin dontation) and campground ($5 pp) adjacent to the carpark. The owner is a nice guy, so be honest.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Terrible! Access/Exit Pitch

The terrible U bolted access pitch that lets you escape without having to fix a rope. More like climbing a rotting shipwreck than a cliff. There's even a bolted offwidth to finish.

17 Sport 50m 2
2 Ijtihad

The striking offwidth splitting the wide pinnacle as seen from the lookout. Hideous, grovelly and excellent. Take a plethora of #4s. Downclimb the chimney to the left to the rap sling.

FA: Chris Elliott, 2014

21 Trad 25m

The Wedding Cake

3 *** The Finger Of Blame 23 Unknown 11m
4 Rain Of Terror

Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col.

18 Trad 30m
5 ** Jihad

Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).

18 Trad 30m
6 ** Infidel

Simon Mentz bolted the arête 2-3m R of Jihad. It has sucked a few people off route who wanted to do Jihad. DRB at the top.

FA: Simey

22 Trad 35m
7 DC Chimney

The chimney L of Rain of Terror/Jihad to the top of the Wedding Cake.

FA: Douglas & Christie

16 Trad 60m 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Tip of the cape

Thanks to Geoff Murray for the photo. www.geoffmurray.com

8 ** Route from Wedding Cake to Cape

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

  1. 70m Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake, maybe stay roped up for the first (northwestern) bit, to 2 bolt anchor.

  2. abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

  3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Leave your walking shoes here.

  4. 60m 8. Place minimal pro on this (e.g. just 1 or 2 long slings around horns) to avoid drag, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

  5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney (sling and #2-3 cam for belay). Relatively protected places to cache food & drink are: (1) at the base of Jihad, (2) where you leave your walking shoes, and (3) at the base of Pole Dancer pitch 1.

16 Trad 300m 5
9 The Wedding Cake Return Pitch

The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth.

16 Trad 35m
10 *** Pole Dancer
  1. Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB. A #5 gives peace of mind.

  2. Sport. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains.

22 Mixed 55m 2, 12
11 *** Certified Wise

FA: Simon Young, Garry Phillips, Alex Lewis, 2010

23 Sport 40m 2
12 ** North Pole 21 Sport 25m
13 ** Pole Axed

FA: Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell, Andrew Irvine

FFA: 2003

21 Sport 40m 2
14 * Diaster Master

FA: Simon Young, Owen Davis, Steve Goss

FFA: 2010

26 Unknown 45m 2
15 *** Disaster Master-Pole Axed Linkup 21 Unknown 45m 2
16 Pillar Of Hercules Unknown
17 The Second Pillar of Hercules UK:HVD AID:A1 Aid
18 Pole Position

FFA: Jake Bresnehan, Kim Robinson, Doug McConnell, Dean Rollins (alt), 2008

24 Trad 70m 4

1.1. Pond Gully Crag 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 147.789232, -43.234360

Description:

Reached approx 20min before the end of the track, adjacent to the ephemeral pond

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Baudin

Left-most crack at top of crag. Climb out using second pitch of skyborne

17 Trad 20m
2 Skyborne

Hand crack 2 lines across from Baudin. Last couple of metres of p1 aided on first ascent. P2 climb corner, moving R to avoid chimney, into crack with axe-head at top.

18 AID:A1 Trad 60m 2
3 Mindfire

Climb left wall of large chimney to L of Shells of Rheban. Not visible from other side of valley.

18 Trad 65m 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Shells of Rheban

The obvious 50m splitter crack viewed from the other side of the valley, finishing on a ledge 3/4 up the cliff, then scrambling out. Hands to fist.

19 Trad 70m 2
5 Hellfire

Long corner line next to Shells of Rheban. Climbs past a dagger-shaped flake on the second pitch.

16 Trad 70m 3
6 Hoorayfabob

Left-facing corner to the right of Hellfire. Awaiting a direct ascent. Climb 15m up Hellfire and belay before traversing onto line.

17 Trad 70m 3
7 Gatekeeper Pinnacle

About 20m downhill from Hoorayfabob, the pinnacle is separated from the main cliff by a narrow chimney. Starts off broken slabs and rock to R of pinnacle. Rap off slings on top.

15 Trad 50m 2
8 *** Hero to Zero

Starts about 60m aboveground in the amphitheatre on the far right of the cliff. The amazing splitter crack line just to the right of the double-offwidth crack on the left side of the amphitheatre. Climbed as 4 pitches with 2 hanging belays: 20 (30m), 19 (30m), 22 (40m), 18 (50m). Take 4x BD cams 2, 3 & 4, single rack otherwise.

FA: Dave James, Topher, 2014

22 Trad 150m 4

1.1.1. The Jim 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Small buttress downhill from the Gatekeeper, capped by a large band of steep, loose scrub. Access for Urban Jungle climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Punky Brewster

Chimney and crack 10m from the LH end of the crag.

15 Trad 25m
2 Troublemaker

Dog-legged hand crack 3m right of Punky Brewster

17 Trad 25m
3 Joymaster

Shallow left-facing corner several metres left of the flaring offwidth

17 Trad 27m
4 Smileshine

The double cracks and corners slightly downhill

15 Trad 30m

1.1.2. Urban Jungle 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ocean of Wisdom 17 Trad 140m 4
2 Journey Agent

Shares first two pitches with SBT

15 Trad 150m 5
3 Sunbeam Traveller 16 Trad 150m 5
4 Flem's Desire 16 Trad 150m 5
5 Angels of Imagination 16 Trad 150m 5

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
HVD A1 The Second Pillar of Hercules Aid 1. Cape Raoul
15 Gatekeeper Pinnacle Trad 50m 2 1.1. Pond Gully Crag
Punky Brewster Trad 25m 1.1.1. The Jim
Smileshine Trad 30m 1.1.1. The Jim
Journey Agent Trad 150m 5 1.1.2. Urban Jungle
16 DC Chimney Trad 60m 2 1. Cape Raoul
** Route from Wedding Cake to Cape Trad 300m 5 1. Cape Raoul
The Wedding Cake Return Pitch Trad 35m 1. Cape Raoul
Hellfire Trad 70m 3 1.1. Pond Gully Crag
Angels of Imagination Trad 150m 5 1.1.2. Urban Jungle
Flem's Desire Trad 150m 5 1.1.2. Urban Jungle
Sunbeam Traveller Trad 150m 5 1.1.2. Urban Jungle
17 Terrible! Access/Exit Pitch Sport 50m 2 1. Cape Raoul
Baudin Trad 20m 1.1. Pond Gully Crag
Hoorayfabob Trad 70m 3 1.1. Pond Gully Crag
Joymaster Trad 27m 1.1.1. The Jim
Troublemaker Trad 25m 1.1.1. The Jim
Ocean of Wisdom Trad 140m 4 1.1.2. Urban Jungle
18 ** Jihad Trad 30m 1. Cape Raoul
Rain Of Terror Trad 30m 1. Cape Raoul
Mindfire Trad 65m 3 1.1. Pond Gully Crag
18 A1 Skyborne Trad 60m 2 1.1. Pond Gully Crag
19 Shells of Rheban Trad 70m 2 1.1. Pond Gully Crag
21 *** Disaster Master-Pole Axed Linkup Unknown 45m 2 1. Cape Raoul
Ijtihad Trad 25m 1. Cape Raoul
** North Pole Sport 25m 1. Cape Raoul
** Pole Axed Sport 40m 2 1. Cape Raoul
22 ** Infidel Trad 35m 1. Cape Raoul
*** Pole Dancer Mixed 55m 2, 12 1. Cape Raoul
*** Hero to Zero Trad 150m 4 1.1. Pond Gully Crag
23 *** Certified Wise Sport 40m 2 1. Cape Raoul
*** The Finger Of Blame Unknown 11m 1. Cape Raoul
24 Pole Position Trad 70m 4 1. Cape Raoul
26 * Diaster Master Unknown 45m 2 1. Cape Raoul
? Pillar Of Hercules Unknown 1. Cape Raoul