A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
topher Michael Lehmann Harrie Van de Linde Brendan Heywood Gareth Llewellin Chris L Alex Hartshorne CElliott Andrew Serack Jim Lister
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Cape Raoul
43 in Crag
- 1.1. Pond Gully 18 in Area
- 1.2. Western Amphitheatre 3 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Cape Raoul 43 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -43.237382, 147.793429
The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted
Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.
Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.
For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday
summary
Amazing, wild location.
access issues
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!
http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania
Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website
approach
2 hour walk to the top of the cliffs. About 800m after the tarn (the little pond, or dry grassy area depending on rain) the track forks. Head to the RIGHT and you will see a poorly formed trail on the left of the track, approx half way to the lookout. There should be a cairn. Follow this off the track and after about 20m you will get to an obvious tunnel cut through trees. This takes you to the top of a dirty gully. Fix a 25m line off a tree (have a jumar or prussic for getting back out). Walk 300m or 20min across the slope following the orange tags and aiming to stay high. This should take you right to the base of Rain of Terror.
where to stay
There is a privately run toilet (gold coin donation) and campground ($10 pp) adjacent to the carpark. The owner is a nice guy, so be honest.
ethic
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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2 |
Terrible! Access/Exit Pitch
The terrible U bolted access pitch that lets you escape without having to fix a rope. More like climbing a rotting shipwreck than a cliff. There's even a bolted offwidth to finish. | 17 | 50m, 2 | |||||
3 |
Ijtihad
The striking offwidth splitting the wide pinnacle as seen from the lookout. Hideous, grovelly and excellent. Take a plethora of #4's. Downclimb the chimney to the left to the rap sling. FA: Chris Elliott, 2014 | 21 | 25m | |||||
The Wedding Cake | ||||||||
5 | ★★★ The Finger Of Blame | 23 | 11m | |||||
6 |
★ Rain Of Terror
Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col. | 18 | 30m | |||||
7 |
★★ Inshallah
Climb the face 2m R of DC Chimney, just before where the corner meets at a 90° angle. Up this through pinches and laybacks until both gear and holds start to run out, then traverse right to DBB of Rain Of Terror. FA: Jim Lister, Harry O'brien & Adele Barnett, 26 Mar 2022 | 18 | 25m | |||||
8 |
★★ Jihad
Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope). | 18 | 30m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Infidel
Simon Mentz bolted the arête 2-3m R of Jihad. It has sucked a few people off route who wanted to do Jihad. DRB at the top. FA: Simon Mentz | 22 | 35m, 3 | |||||
10 |
DC Chimney
The chimney L of Rain of Terror/Jihad to the top of the Wedding Cake. FA: Douglas & Christie | 16 | 60m, 2 | |||||
12 | ★ Kufr | 18 | 40m, 2 | |||||
13 |
Bumhole Dancer
Make sure you wear protection, chossy off-width chimney that climbs to the bottom of the wedding cake. ledge belay at 30m with a decent run out at the start of the second pitch. FA: Michael Lehmann, Thom May, James Short & Joanna Slowinska, 30 Jan 2021 | 17 R | 60m, 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Tip of the capeThanks to Geoff Murray for the photo. www.geoffmurray.com | ||||||||
15 |
★★ Route from Wedding Cake to Cape
Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:
| 8 | 300m, 5 | |||||
16 |
★ Autopilot
The burly, dirty, off-width directly below the rap anchors. Once some of the loose rock comes off, this could actually be a nice off-width route. (It's very possible someone has stumbled up this before us.) FA: Alex Riegelman & Andrew Serack, 4 Feb 2020 | 20 | 25m | |||||
17 |
★ The Wedding Cake Return Pitch
The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth. | 16 | 35m | |||||
18 |
★★★ Pole Dancer
| 22 | 40m, 2, 12 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Certified Wise
FA: Simon Young, Garry Phillips & Alex Lewis, 2010 | 23 | 40m, 2 | |||||
20 |
★ North Pole
| 21 | 25m, 2 | |||||
21 |
★★ Pole Axed
FA: Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell & Andrew Irvine FFA: 2003 | 21 | 40m, 2 | |||||
22 |
★★ Disaster Master
FA: Simon Young, Owen Davis & Steve Goss FFA: 2010 | 26 | 45m, 2 | |||||
23 | ★★★ Disaster Master-Pole Axed Linkup | 21 | 45m, 2, 6 | |||||
24 | Pillar Of Hercules | |||||||
25 | The Second Pillar of Hercules | UK:HVD AID:A1 | ||||||
26 |
Pole Position
FFA: Jake Bresnehan, Kim Robinson, Doug McConnell & Dean Rollins (alt), 2008 | 24 | 70m, 4 |
1.1. Pond Gully 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -43.234360, 147.789232
description
Reached approx 20min before the end of the track, adjacent to the ephemeral pond
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Baudin
Left-most crack at top of crag. Climb out using second pitch of skyborne | 17 | 20m | |||||
2 |
Skyborne
Hand crack 2 lines across from Baudin. Last couple of metres of p1 aided on first ascent. P2 climb corner, moving R to avoid chimney, into crack with axe-head at top. | 18 AID:A1 | 60m, 2 | |||||
3 |
Mindfire
Climb left wall of large chimney to L of Shells of Rheban. Not visible from other side of valley. | 18 | 65m, 3 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
★★★ Shells of Rheban
The obvious 50m splitter crack viewed from the other side of the valley, finishing on a ledge 3/4 up the cliff, then scrambling out. Hands to fist. | 19 | 70m, 2 | |||||
5 |
Hellfire
Long corner line next to Shells of Rheban. Climbs past a dagger-shaped flake on the second pitch. | 16 | 70m, 3 | |||||
6 |
Hoorayfabob
Left-facing corner to the right of Hellfire. Awaiting a direct ascent. Climb 15m up Hellfire and belay before traversing onto line. | 17 | 70m, 3 | |||||
7 |
Gatekeeper Pinnacle
About 20m downhill from Hoorayfabob, the pinnacle is separated from the main cliff by a narrow chimney. Starts off broken slabs and rock to R of pinnacle. Rap off slings on top. | 15 | 50m, 2 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Hero to Zero
Starts about 60m aboveground in the amphitheatre on the far right of the cliff. The amazing splitter crack line just to the right of the double-offwidth crack on the left side of the amphitheatre. Climbed as 4 pitches with 2 hanging belays: 20 (30m), 19 (30m), 22 (40m), 18 (50m). Take 4x BD cams 2, 3 & 4, single rack otherwise. FA: Dave James & Topher, 2014 | 22 | 150m, 4 | |||||
The JimSmall buttress downhill from the Gatekeeper, capped by a large band of steep, loose scrub. Access for Urban Jungle climbs. | ||||||||
10 |
Punky Brewster
Chimney and crack 10m from the LH end of the crag. | 15 | 25m | |||||
11 |
★ Troublemaker
Dog-legged hand crack 3m right of Punky Brewster | 17 | 25m | |||||
12 |
Joymaster
Shallow left-facing corner several metres left of the flaring offwidth | 17 | 27m | |||||
13 |
★ Smileshine
The double cracks and corners slightly downhill | 15 | 30m | |||||
Urban Jungle | ||||||||
15 | Ocean of Wisdom | 17 | 140m, 4 | |||||
16 |
Journey Agent
Shares first two pitches with SBT | 15 | 150m, 5 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Sunbeam Traveller | 16 | 150m, 5 | |||||
18 | Flem's Desire | 16 | 150m, 5 | |||||
19 | Angels of Imagination | 16 | 150m, 5 | |||||
20 |
★★ Dementia Adventure
Apart from the chossy last pitch, a great crack climb with everything from fingers to offwidth. Starts on extreme right of chossy ledge at top of The Jim, accessed via one of these. P1: Step right into finger crack, continuing to belayon chockstones at base of chimney (20m,19). P2: Up chimney, then continuing up fist crack to ledge. From here take the finger to hand crack on the right,up to a large ledge, and scramble to the base of the maon crack (40m, 19). P3: Straight up the fist to offwidth crack, which becomes hands for about 20m at 2/3 height (60m,20/21). P4: Find the line of least resistance/choss to the top of the cliff (20m, 16). Rack: Triple BD 2, 3, 4 & 5, single 0.3-1 and 6. Single set of wires. FA: topher, Mike Hitchcock & Pete Kehoe, Nov 2020 | 21 | 140m, 4 |
1.2. Western Amphitheatre 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -43.240925, 147.797939
description
The cliff on the RH side of the wedding cake when scrambling towards Pole Dancer. Routes where cleaned on rap and developed as single pitch climbs. These could easily be linked as full multi's from the ocean below.
approach
Approach as per Wedding Cake, rap in from the top of the wedding cake to access routes.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ The Scimitar
The prominent arete in the Western amphitheatre on the wedding cake. A contender for the most exposure at the cape. Rappel down arete to small ledge belay stance on climbers left. Recommend inspection, gear where you need it, not where you want it. FA: Michael Lehmann & Harrie Van de Linde, 30 Jan 2022 | 19 R | 25m | |||||
2 |
★ Lightning strike
on the opposite wall from TB, lay back the flake all the way to the top. | 18 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★ Thunder bolt
climb hand crack in the middle of narrow face. zig-zig your way up, stepping out left near the top and traverse right and out to natural belay. try to avoid using right-hand corner | 17 | 20m |