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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad, Sport and other styles
Long/Lat: 147.795296, -43.238333
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Amazing, wild location.
2 hour walk to the top of the cliffs. About 800m after the tarn (the little pond, or dry grassy area depending on rain) the track forks. 100m to the left (east) is the lookout, definitely go here to get your bearings. However, access to the rap-in gully is about 30m to the RIGHT (south) of this track fork. Take this and you will see a poorly formed trail on the left of the track (East) here where the bush opens out some. Follow this off the track and after about 20m you will get to an obvious tunnel cut through trees. This takes you a further 15m to the dirty top of gully. Rap 30m off a tree (have a jumar or prussic for getting back out). Walk 300m across the slope following the orange tags and aiming to stay high. This should take you right to the base of Rain of Terror.
- Where To Stay:
There is a privately run toilet (gold coin dontation) and campground ($5 pp) adjacent to the carpark. The owner is a nice guy, so be honest.
Terrible! Access/Exit Pitch
The terrible U bolted access pitch that lets you escape without having to fix a rope. More like climbing a rotting shipwreck than a cliff. There's even a bolted offwidth to finish.
The striking offwidth splitting the wide pinnacle as seen from the lookout. Hideous, grovelly and excellent. Take a plethora of #4s. Downclimb the chimney to the left to the rap sling.
FA: Chris Elliott, 2014
The Wedding Cake
|3||The Finger Of Blame||23||11m|
Rain Of Terror
Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col.
Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).
The chimney L of Rain of Terror/Jihad to the top of the Wedding Cake.
FA: Douglas & Christie
Tip of the cape
Thanks to Geoff Murray for the photo. www.geoffmurray.com
Route from Wedding Cake to Cape
Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:
The Wedding Cake Return Pitch
The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth.
FA: Simon Young, Garry Phillips, Alex Lewis, 2010
FA: Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell, Andrew Irvine
FA: Simon Young, Owen Davis, Steve Goss
|15||Disaster Master-Pole Axed Linkup||21||245m|
|16||Pillar Of Hercules|
|17||The Second Pillar of Hercules||UK:HVD AID:A1|
FFA: Jake Bresnehan, Kim Robinson, Doug McConnell, Dean Rollins (alt), 2008
Long/Lat: 147.789232, -43.234360
Reached approx 20min before the end of the track, adjacent to the ephemeral pond
Left-most crack at top of crag. Climb out using second pitch of skyborne
Hand crack 2 lines across from Baudin. Last couple of metres of p1 aided on first ascent. P2 climb corner, moving R to avoid chimney, into crack with axe-head at top.
Climb left wall of large chimney to L of Shells of Rheban. Not visible from other side of valley.
Shells of Rheban
The obvious 50m splitter crack viewed from the other side of the valley, finishing on a ledge 3/4 up the cliff, then scrambling out. Hands to fist.
Long corner line next to Shells of Rheban. Climbs past a dagger-shaped flake on the second pitch.
About 20m downhill from Hoorayfabob, the pinnacle is separated from the main cliff by a narrow chimney. Starts off broken slabs and rock to R of pinnacle. Rap off slings on top.
Hero to Zero
Starts about 60m aboveground in the amphitheatre on the far right of the cliff. The amazing splitter crack line just to the right of the double-offwidth crack on the left side of the amphitheatre. Climbed as 4 pitches with 2 hanging belays: 20 (30m), 19 (30m), 22 (40m), 18 (50m). Take 4x BD cams 2, 3 & 4, single rack otherwise.
FA: Dave James, Topher, 2014
Small buttress downhill from the Gatekeeper, capped by a large band of steep, loose scrub. Access for Urban Jungle climbs.
Chimney and crack 10m from the LH end of the crag.
Dog-legged hand crack 3m right of Punky Brewster
Shallow left-facing corner several metres left of the flaring offwidth
The double cracks and corners slightly downhill
|1||Ocean of Wisdom||17||4140m|
Shares first two pitches with SBT
|5||Angels of Imagination||16||5150m|