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Description:

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

  1. 70m Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake, maybe stay roped up for the first (northwestern) bit, to 2 bolt anchor.

  2. abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

  3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Leave your walking shoes here.

  4. 60m 8. Place minimal pro on this (e.g. just 1 or 2 long slings around horns) to avoid drag, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

  5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney (sling and #2-3 cam for belay). Relatively protected places to cache food & drink are: (1) at the base of Jihad, (2) where you leave your walking shoes, and (3) at the base of Pole Dancer pitch 1.

Route History:

There is no known route history.

Location:  

Located in Cape Raoul approx:
Long/Lat: 147.795341,-43.238981

Route Grade Citations

16 Principal
16 Gareth Llewellin

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

great fun awesome tricky crack

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