Topo #5838

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Route Grade Popularity Style
2 Terrible! Access/Exit Pitch

The terrible U bolted access pitch that lets you escape without having to fix a rope. More like climbing a rotting shipwreck than a cliff. There's even a bolted offwidth to finish.

17 Sport 50m 2 Unlink route
5 *** The Finger Of Blame
23 Unknown 11m Unlink route
6 Rain Of Terror

Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col.

18 Trad 30m Unlink route
7 ** Jihad

Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).

18 Trad 30m Unlink route
9 DC Chimney

The chimney L of Rain of Terror/Jihad to the top of the Wedding Cake.

16 Trad 60m 2 Unlink route
13 *** Pole Dancer

1) Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB. A #5 gives peace of mind. 2) Sport. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains.

22 Mixed 55m 2, 12 Unlink route
3 Ijtihad

The striking offwidth splitting the wide pinnacle as seen from the lookout. Hideous, grovelly and excellent. Take a plethora of #4s. Downclimb the chimney to the left to the rap sling.

21 Trad 25m Unlink route

Topo #8554

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Route Grade Popularity Style
5 *** The Finger Of Blame
23 Unknown 11m Unlink route
6 Rain Of Terror

Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col.

18 Trad 30m Unlink route
7 ** Jihad

Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).

18 Trad 30m Unlink route
8 ** Infidel

Simon Mentz bolted the arête 2-3m R of Jihad. It has sucked a few people off route who wanted to do Jihad. DRB at the top.

22 Trad 35m Unlink route
9 DC Chimney

The chimney L of Rain of Terror/Jihad to the top of the Wedding Cake.

16 Trad 60m 2 Unlink route

Topo #8553

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Route Grade Popularity Style
13 *** Pole Dancer

1) Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB. A #5 gives peace of mind. 2) Sport. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains.

22 Mixed 55m 2, 12 Unlink route
14 *** Certified Wise
23 Sport 40m 2 Unlink route
15 ** North Pole
21 Sport 25m Unlink route
16 ** Pole Axed
21 Sport 40m 2 Unlink route
11 ** Route from Wedding Cake to Cape

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then: 1) 70m Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake, maybe stay roped up for the first (northwestern) bit, to 2 bolt anchor. 2) abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area. 3) Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Leave your walking shoes here. 4) 60m 8. Place minimal pro on this (e.g. just 1 or 2 long slings around horns) to avoid drag, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney. 5) 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney (sling and #2-3 cam for belay). Relatively protected places to cache food & drink are: (1) at the base of Jihad, (2) where you leave your walking shoes, and (3) at the base of Pole Dancer pitch 1.

16 Trad 300m 5 Unlink route

Topo #5841

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Route Grade Popularity Style
12 The Wedding Cake Return Pitch

The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth.

16 Trad 35m Unlink route

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