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Access issues inherited from Cape Woolamai

This is a sea cliff, so tides are an obvious factor. Check charts before departing. Grassy areas atop the cliffs are rookeries for mutton birds and penguins, so stick to established tracks. Nest burrows will collapse if trodden on. This is a special and unique environment, so read the signs and behave accordingy

Ethic inherited from Cape Woolamai

Trad ethic predominates, largely due to the the short lifespan of fixed steel in the salty spray. Anchors are often slung bollards so bring some tat to lower off


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Grade Route

Start at the bottom right corner of the "bay" side of the 2nd pinnacle, traverse left and up to ledge at the base of the left-facing corner at the very left side of the pinnacle. Up the corner crack, then carefully top-out, trying not to dislodge too much of the choss. Descent by rappelling off the horn at the top of Nerve Case.

FA: Stuart Hollaway & Lachie Currie, 2007

Up the "bay" side of the first pinnacle, between two black streaks for the first half. When approaching the top, the route goes over the face, rather than the groove on the right hand size which is significantly easier.

FA: Stuart Hollaway & Pat Clark, 2008

On the ocean side of the first pinnacle. Walk around the back to a platform on the ocean side, and look for three hand-sized protrusions of pink rock sticking out slightly from the otherwise brown granite, about 2.5m up from the platform. The climb starts beneath these. Up a hand crack through a slight bulge (crux), then into a V-shaped groove and thrutch or bridge upwards. Well protected.

FA: Stuart Hollaway & Lachie Currie, 19 Oct 2008


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