A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Matt Brooks Julian Goad Emilie Skramsett Philip Armstrong Rod Young Paul MacLeman Cam McKenzie Martin Vestol holly
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. The Big Cliff 17 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Big Cliff 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -38.562503, 145.347544
access issues
This is a sea cliff, so tides are an obvious factor. Check charts before departing. Grassy areas atop the cliffs are rookeries for mutton birds and penguins, so stick to established tracks. Nest burrows will collapse if trodden on. Footpads leading inland are are experiencing erosion and may lead to access issues in the future. This is a special and unique environment, so read the signs and behave accordingly
ethic
Trad ethic predominates, largely due to the the short lifespan of fixed steel in the salty spray. Anchors are often slung bollards so bring some tat to lower off
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Matelot
Good positions above the crashing surf. The climbing however is terrible.Starts at the extreme L edge of the Big Cliff, where a chimney starts 6m up and slants L that can be reached at low tide.
FA: Chris Baxter & Peter Jackson, 1968 | 11 | 120m, 4, 4 | |||
2 |
★ Poseidon
Start at the detached pedestal R of Matelot.
FA: Peter Jackson & Robert Bull, 1965 | 15 | 66m, 2 | |||
3 |
★ Tsunami
One of the better climbs on the cliff. Start at the crack 3m R of Poseidon.
FA: Joe Friend & Chris Baxter, 1976 | 14 | 85m, 3, 2 | |||
4 |
★ The Plunge
Everyone has to take it someday. This route introduced wall climbing to the Big Cliff. Starts as for the TAM.
FA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1983 | 16 | 55m, 2, 2 | |||
5 |
The Plunge Direct Start
Steep cracks and flakes 3m L of the original line lead up to the roof. FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1983 | 16 | 20m | |||
6 |
The Plunge Variant
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1988 | 17 | 65m, 2 | |||
7 |
The Ancient Mariner
A little loose maybe. Starts 5m R of Poseidon, up an easy wall below a prominent roof in the middle of the cliff.
FA: Chris Baxter & Chris Dewhurst, 1976 | 14 | 67m, 3, 3 | |||
8 |
Carious Crack
The original and possibly the easiest route on the wall, poor climbing though. The Chimney crack 3m R of TAM.
FA: Peter Jackson & Les Whitely, 1963 | 11 | 75m, 3 | |||
9 |
Carious Crack Variant
2a. 21m 12 The only way Continue straight up the main chimney and exit L to the original bolt. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1966 | 12 | 21m | |||
10 |
Carious Crack Variant Start
Done during an attempt to continue up the wall. 1a. 20m 16 Climb the wall L of CC to the 1st belay. FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1963 | 16 | 20m | |||
11 |
★★ Popeye
The best climb on the cliff but a testing lead. This was originally Aided at 17M5!!! Start below the thin crack 2m R of CC.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1970 FFA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1983 | 19 | 78m, 3 | |||
12 |
★ Barnacle Bill
Surprisingly good rock - enjoyable climbing. Start below the main crack up the wall R of Popeye.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Clive Parker & Chris Baxter, 1968 | 16 | 73m, 2, 2 | |||
13 |
★ Nostromo
A travers of the cliff. Atnosperic. Star in the gully on the R which seperates the main face from the Candle. Solo the groove on the L to a small stance and bolt belay.
FA: Robert Bull & Peter Jackson, 1965 FFA: Chris baxter & Andrew Thompson, 1973 | 15 | 85m, 4, 4 | |||
14 |
King Neptune
Satrts as for Nostromo.
FA: Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett, 1968 | 14 | 60m, 2 | |||
15 |
King Neptune Direct
King Neptune is located somewhere in the upper 3/4 of this route. The description is very vague.As described below there is a direct line all the way up the R side of the cliff. Start at the R hand edge of the Big Cliff. This is the R most of 3 crack lines right of Barnacle Bill.
FA: phillip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 1989 | 17 | 68m, 3, 1 | |||
16 |
The Candle
Scramble up the gully R of the main cliff and traverse onto the slender buttress above and to its R. Climb the R hand arete of the face past an ancient bolt (ancient in 1974!!!!) to the ledge. Finish up the loose and unprotected step. FA: Peter Jackson & Robert Bull, 1964 | 9 | 22m, 1 | |||
17 |
The Mermaid
A neglected line. Corner on the L of the Candle buttress. FA: Kevin Lidorff & James Groux, 1989 | 17 | 35m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
9 | The Candle | 22m, 1 | |||
11 | Carious Crack | 75m, 3 | |||
Matelot | 120m, 4, 4 | ||||
12 | Carious Crack Variant | 21m | |||
14 | King Neptune | 60m, 2 | |||
The Ancient Mariner | 67m, 3, 3 | ||||
★ | Tsunami | 85m, 3, 2 | |||
15 | ★ | Nostromo | 85m, 4, 4 | ||
★ | Poseidon | 66m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ | Barnacle Bill | 73m, 2, 2 | ||
Carious Crack Variant Start | 20m | ||||
★ | The Plunge | 55m, 2, 2 | |||
The Plunge Direct Start | 20m | ||||
17 | King Neptune Direct | 68m, 3, 1 | |||
The Mermaid | 35m | ||||
The Plunge Variant | 65m, 2 | ||||
19 | ★★ | Popeye | 78m, 3 |