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Summary

Easy access, short sport routes, nice sunny aspect

Description

A good crag for those wishing to access the easier sport climbing on offer in Adelaide with fairly well placed bolts - just don't expect much below grade 20, this IS South Australia

Approach

Located in disused quarry. Travelling up Old 'Belair' rd park in gravel layby (both sides of the road). Follow steep track at S end of car park to overgrown dirt road, continue SW 50m to the crag.

© (boardlord)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
22 Urban Decay Trad 15m
2
21 The Fading Light Sport 12m, 3
3
23 Smearing on Mt McKinley Sport 10m, 3
5
21 * Technicolour Sunfish Sport 12m

One of the best routes here, leads to oversize bolt-hanger at anchor

8
26 Eye of the Needle Sport 10m
9
10
21 Hard Stone City Sport 12m
11
21 Rainbow Wall Sport 8m, 3

Up to hard move directly over bulge

12
15 Rainbow Wall LHF Sport 8m, 3

Follow as for the original route to the rest below thw small roof, escape under and to the left of the small roof, following the corner crack until the chains can be reached.

13
17 Des' Dihedral Sport 8m

The often-climbed but unrecorded (?) corner-crack between RW and RTAS. Stay in it all the way!

FA: Paul Badenoch, Chris Oerman, 2008

14
21 Running to a Standstill Sport 10m, 3

Up V-corner directly to hard move to chains

15

Same as 'Running to a Standstill' then escape right to avoid hard move to chains

16
21 Edge of Darkness Sport 12m

Up arete to bolt with no hangar. After second hangar head right to 'No Mans Land' chains. An overlooked climb with a lot of merit!

17
22 No Man's Land Sport 12m, 3

Difficult Mantle move

18
17 No Man's Land RHV Sport 12m
20
21
16 Exodus Sport 8m
22
11 Sexy Love Slot Trad 8m

The crack on the L side of the slab. Stick to the crack the whole way. At the top, move R to chains.

Following the bolts up the slab is 'Sexy Love Clam'

FA: Alistair Gifford-Moore, T. Cox, 1991

23
11 Sexy Love Clam Sport 10m, 2

Start up Sexy Love Slot and then move R onto the slab passing 2 bolts to the chains.

25
20 Fish Dreams Sport 8m
26
24 Fisting a Shark Trad 15m

Start 2m left of Feltch Me and climb small wall to under big roof. Launch out through roof crack and up continuation to ledge. At the second horizontal traverse left to arête and finish up this (DBB). All trad. Big Cams for the roof (#3&4) and take a small cam or small wires for the traverse to the arête to avoid the 9m runout experienced on the FA!

FA: 2011

27

From the arete to the chains via the crack.

29
23 Bad Taste Sport 12m
30
23 Taste the Pain Sport 14m, 5

Fresh bolts will hopefully breath life back into this fantastic little gem! Starts a couple of meters left of the main wall and to the right of Felch Me. Head up following the bolts to the overhang. Once over the overhang use the slab and the corner to reach the chains. Old chains are still there for prosperity.

31

Start as for original but once at the roof head directly over the centre and up left hand side of the slab. Keep out of the right hand corner. A powerful sequence over the roof!

FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 21st Oct

32
24 The Nigel Rees Traverse Boulder 20m

Starts with graffitti and ends up being a bit of a joke. Start left of graffitti left of ELV on a jug and traverse right all the way across the wall finishing in the gully right of Mercey Street. Intersect Mercey Street above it's 1st bolt and down climb that routes start to continue trending right to the finish. Rock deteriorates in the last 5m.

FA: 2011

33

It's about time someone told it how it is. It is NOT a 23. It's easier than some other 21's around here - but don't under-estimate the seriousness of the second bolt if it is at your grade.

34

Start slighty left of the original on two small edge side pulls and head directly up on small holds to ledge at mid point. Finish up original line. First bolt cannot be reached so it's a high-ball to the second bolt.

35

Starts slightly right of the original line. Head directly up using holds in the original line as left hand holds and minimal right hand holds to one very long dynamic move at the end. No bolts can be clipped so it's either a top rope, solo, or high-ball boulder problem!

36
22 Footswitch Sport 3

ELV to its 2nd bolt then veer hard right, gain the staircase, rest for a year or two, then into RO clipping its 2nd bolt. Finish as for RO direct.

FA: Steve Kelly, 20th Oct

37

Top rope up the front face of staircase to the chains. Swing left after first step of the stair case. (may be named something else)

FA: April Westcott, Stuart Williams. And at around the same time by Rick Jeukin, 1990

38
24 Receptive Orifices Sport 8m, 3

Once graded 25. A technical sequence.

39
25 Merciless Sport 6

Climb RO to it's 2nd bolt then traverse right across PO, Gonads and through a decidedly thin sequence to join Mercey Street at it's good sidepull between it's 2nd & 3rd bolt. Finish as for this route.

40
23 Beg For Mercey Sport 10m, 6

Climb the first two BR's of Percetive Orators then head right across the scar on AGW and clip the bolt out right on Elephantiasis. Climb into this route then right again into Gonads RHV. Climb the last two BR's of this route and finish at the chain of Mercey Street.

41

Very contrived. Stick-clip RO's first draw, then climb the blank wall between RO and PO, using their crack's for hand and foot holds.

FA: Paul Kinnane, 2004

42

A training link. Starts on loose jug left of graffiti left of ELV then traverses right to finish up all of PO with no rest.

43
23 PO RO Sport

Start up PO then break left into RO after the first bolt and finish up this. Another link.

44
22 Perceptive Orators Sport 8m, 3

Was 22 then hold breakage upped grade to 23. In 2011 the flake came off resulting in a large sidepull. Now 22 again.

45

Up Perceptive Orators to the third bolt, then right to finish as for Elephantiasis. A good link.

46

Rarely done. Takes line right of PO through underclings to scar (horizontal) - then up to independent chain shared with Elephantiasis.

47
23 Gonad Orator Sport

Up Elephantiasis to 2nd bolt then left into PO and finish up this.

48

A hard crimpy start leads into easier climbing above.

49
22 Gonads RHV Trad 9m

The line without a lower off. Hold breakage at the start (chossy rock) and no protection leads into the crack.

50
24 * Mercey Street Sport 8m

The right hand line on the graffitti wall. An intense sequence past three bolts.

51
24 Footloose Sport 4

Climb ELV right hand variant to the ledge and finish as for Footswitch.

FA: Petey Pete, 17th Nov

Open trips

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