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Summary

Easy access, short sport routes, nice sunny aspect

Description

A good crag for those wishing to access the easier sport climbing on offer in Adelaide with fairly well placed bolts - just don't expect much below grade 20, this IS South Australia

Approach

Located in disused quarry. Travelling up Old 'Belair' rd park in gravel layby (both sides of the road). Follow steep track at S end of car park to overgrown dirt road, continue SW 50m to the crag.

© (boardlord)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

climbs the arête on smears to the over sized anchors. A technical piece.

One of the best routes at Car Crash. Follow bolts up the left wall of the amphitheatre, move left to the arete to finish at agricultural looking anchor.

5'9 dyno from crimps to the sloping jug

FA: 2009

Follow as for the original route to the rest below the small roof, escape left, then up to chains.

Up wall to a rest below a small roof. Then make a hard move over this (Neagle called it pointless.) Avoid the corner/crack on the R.

The often-climbed but unrecorded (?) corner-crack between RW and RTAS. Stay in it all the way!

FA: Paul Badenoch & Chris Oerman, 2008

Up V-corner directly to hard move to chains

Same as 'Running to a Standstill' then escape right to avoid hard move to chains

Up arete to bolt with no hangar. After second hangar head right to 'No Mans Land' chains. An overlooked climb with a lot of merit!

Difficult Mantle move

Take the crack on the left? The arete on the right? Span across both? Ignore both? You decide.

Re-equipped 2015.

Start to the left of the Arete under the overhang. Clip first bolt, then make a couple more moves and head left and join original line at its first bolt. Finish as for original line. A bit more sustained than its original.

FA: Petey Pete, 2015

Starts just left of the arête. Gain the ledge under the overhang then head right and up the arête. Once on the ledge continue up the arête clipping the last bolt of Exodus and finish at its chains. Committing second bolt.

FA: Petey Pete, 2015

The crack on the L side of the slab. Stick to the crack the whole way. At the top, move R to chains.

Following the bolts up the slab is 'Sexy Love Clam'

FA: Alistair Gifford-Moore & T. Cox, 1991

Start up Sexy Love Slot and then move R onto the slab passing 2 bolts to the chains.

Start up the crack just right of the fish dreams roof. Clip the first bolt of fish dreams continuing directly up the crack with 2 more cam(s), clip the 3rd bolt before reaching "the boardwalk" ledge.

FA: Robert Brooks, 2016

Up just L of the big roof, around R of the block and continue in the V-corner. Take a 0.75 BD cam. A 'biner on a rope was used to lower off on the FA. Needs a bolted rap point and a little more cleaning.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Chris Oerman & David Newell, 2016

Start 2m left of Feltch Me and climb small wall to under big roof. Launch out through roof crack and up continuation to ledge. At the second horizontal traverse left to arête and finish up this (DBB). All trad. Big Cams for the roof (#3&4) and take a small cam or small wires for the traverse to the arête. Upgraded to 25 based on consensus.

FA: 2011

Climb the overhanging arête and up the crack to a stance at half way height. Place a cam in the horizontal then balance your way up the slab between the arête and the corner to the chains.

Caution. The first bolt is the second bolt on Felch me and the run out to the chains is committing! Two pieces of gear was used on the FA.

FA: Petey Pete, 2017

Start a couple of metres left of Felch me just right of the arete. Make some reachy moves through a technical sequence to gain the ledge. Head up and directly over the roof clipping a bolt above the lip and finish at Felch Me's chains. A powerful sequence through the roof.

FA: Petey Pete, 2015

From the arete to the chains via the crack.

Start R of the graffiti. Up to first bolt, then L to stand on ledge on arete. Move back R via thin seam and then through steepening. Continue up L to chains.

Self explanatory. Climb Felch Me to its last bolt and head right to chains.

FA: Petey Pete, 2015

Start as for 'Obsessive Compulsive Disorder' and at its third bolt traverse left via an undercling into 'Felch Me'. Clip Felch Me's 5th bolt and finish up this.

FA: Petey Pete, 2015

Start just right of Felch Me and head directly up through layback flake. Veer slightly right over small overhang and up slab to chains. 4 BRs.

FA: Petey Pete, 2015

Start 1 metre right of original start under big block and head directly up and over block to a stance. Join the original line at its third bolt and finish as for this. Harder start. Long runner on second bolt is ideal as you can't reach the first bolt.

FA: Petey Pete, 2015

Start in the right corner of Felch Me following the crack up to the chains.

Fresh bolts will hopefully breath life back into this fantastic little gem! Starts a couple of meters left of the main wall and to the right of Felch Me. Head up following the bolts to the overhang. Once over the overhang use the slab and the corner to reach the chains. Old chains are still there for prosperity.

Start as for original but once at the roof head directly over the centre and up left hand side of the slab. Keep out of the right hand corner. A powerful sequence over the roof!

FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 2014

Starts with graffitti and ends up being a bit of a joke. Start left of graffitti left of ELV on a jug and traverse right all the way across the wall finishing in the gully right of Mercey Street. Intersect Mercey Street above it's 1st bolt and down climb that routes start to continue trending right to the finish. Rock deteriorates in the last 5m.

FA: 2011

Sit start left of ELV with RH undercling and LH slopey sidepull. Pull on and go LH to small edge, then bypass finger slot with RH and instead go to higher sidepull. LH sidepull, then RH dynamic into the slot of ELV Lefthand. LH to jug. 5 moves.

The bolted line beneath the staircase on the left end of the wall. High second bolt.

Sit start with LH gaston edge and higher RH sidepull. Make three moves to gain good gaston of original. Take it to the top!

Start slighty left of the original on two small edge side pulls and head directly up on small holds to ledge at mid point. Finish up original line. First bolt cannot be reached so it's a high-ball to the second bolt.

Starts slightly right of the original line. Head directly up using holds in the original line as left hand holds and minimal right hand holds (sidepulls) to one very long dynamic move at the end.

Climb ELV right hand variant to the ledge and finish as for Footswitch.

FA: Petey Pete, 2014

ELV to its 2nd bolt then veer hard right, gain the staircase, rest for a year or two, then into RO clipping its 2nd bolt. Finish as for RO direct.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2014

Top rope up the front face of staircase to the chains. Swing left after first step of the stair case. (may be named something else)

FA: April Westcott, Stuart Williams. & at around the same time by Rick Jeukin, 1990

Once graded 25. A technical sequence.

Climb RO to it's 2nd bolt then traverse right across PO, Gonads and through a decidedly thin sequence to join Mercey Street at it's good sidepull between it's 2nd & 3rd bolt. Finish as for this route.

Climb the first two BR's of Percetive Orators then head right across the scar on AGW and clip the bolt out right on Elephantiasis. Climb into this route then right again into Gonads RHV. Climb the last two BR's of this route and finish at the chain of Mercey Street.

Very contrived. Stick-clip RO's first draw, then climb the blank wall between RO and PO, using their crack's for hand and foot holds.

FA: Paul Kinnane, 2004

A training link. Starts on loose jug left of graffiti left of ELV then traverses right to finish up all of PO with no rest.

Start up PO then break left into RO after the first bolt and finish up this. Another link.

Was 22 then hold breakage upped grade to 23. In 2011 the flake came off resulting in a large sidepull. Now 22 again.

Up Perceptive Orators to the break, then right across the break and into Elephantiasis of the G. A good link. Can also be started as for AGW.

AGW then into PO and finishing as for RO Lefthand finish. Easiest route on this wall.

Rarely done. Takes line right of PO through underclings to scar (horizontal) - then up to independent chain shared with Elephantiasis.

Up Elephantiasis to 2nd bolt then left into PO and finish up this.

A hard crimpy start leads into easier climbing above.

The line without a lower off. Hold breakage at the start (chossy rock) and no protection leads into the crack.

Up Mercy Street then left to join Gonads RH (groundfall possible) - bust horizontally left into EoftheG then left again into PO. Against your better judgement keep trucking left into RO and finish as for the left hand finish to that route. Runout finish off the PO 2nd bolt.

FA: 2012

The right hand line on the graffitti wall. An intense sequence past three bolts.

Climbs the obvious vertical weakness to the right of Mercy Street. When it ends move slightly right to some good side pull blocks and up. Rock deteriorates at the top.

FA: Petey Pete, 2017

Start a meter right of 'Bomber Choss' under the obvious large sloper. Climb up the face via bouldery moves and finish as for 'Bomber Choss'.

Activity

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