Grade / ascent band
Directions in Google Maps
As you approach the main cliff from the track, you will see a wide crack up high to the left of the track. This is the second pitch of Tontons Macoutes and Street Cafe. To get to the start, scrub bash across to the base of the pillar.
Start: Below a crack with a 'rock cowpat' at about head height. The climb takes the crack which leads to superb climbing out left.
27m. (crux) Tricky move up over 'cowpat' and up the crack to a small roof. From here swing left to the V-groove. Up this to belay on ledge.
8m. Straight up the large corner/crack. Abseil off the back via a very large bollard.
FA: R.Curtis & A.Stephens (alt leads), 1984
Start: As for T.M. The chossy crack, then move out right onto the wall. Stephens performed an excellent backward somersault, with pike, when a chicken head snapped off the slab.
22m. (crux) Up choss and good crack to small roof of T.M., then move out right and up juggy wall and fine short slab. Belay on ledge as for T.M.
8m. As for pitch 2 of Tontons Macoutes, The wide crack/corner. Abseil off large bollard at the back of the pinnacle.
FA: A.Stephens & R.Curtis, 1984
Start: The chimney approx. 10m. left of 'We Wont Get Fooled Again'.
FA: A.Stephens & B.Birchall, 1984
Start: A left facing chimney that gets wider higher up.
FA: A.Stephens & L.Dixon, 1984
Start: The crack 2m. right of the big flake on the overhanging wall.
25m. Up overhanging crack (crux) , move into crack on left, and up corner, step right to a big flake. Up flake to belay on top of it.
15m. Up crack on left and step right and easy ground to top.
FA: P.Colyvan, A.Stephens (alt leads) & L.Dixon, 1984
Start: Up on a ledge on the right-hand end of the main cliff, past Bangin Beava. A great introduction to hand jamming.
FA: L.Dixon & A.Stephens, 1984
Start: Start in a gully at the right-hand end of the main cliff, just left of 'Cheap Regrets' 5m right of 'Day Dream'.
Start: Just left of Soft Touch, a rounded lowangled arete, harder than it looks. Take a sling for a nubbin runner. A very serious lead.
FA: P.Colyvan, B.Birchalll & S.Gay, 1984
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