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Description

As you approach the main cliff from the track, you will see a wide crack up high to the left of the track. This is the second pitch of Tontons Macoutes and Street Cafe. To get to the start, scrub bash across to the base of the pillar.

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Routes

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1
22 Tontons Macoutes Trad 35m

Start: Below a crack with a 'rock cowpat' at about head height. The climb takes the crack which leads to superb climbing out left.

  1. 27m. (crux) Tricky move up over 'cowpat' and up the crack to a small roof. From here swing left to the V-groove. Up this to belay on ledge.

  2. 8m. Straight up the large corner/crack. Abseil off the back via a very large bollard.

FA: R.Curtis, A.Stephens,(alt leads), 1984

2
21 Street Café Trad 30m

Start: As for T.M. The chossy crack, then move out right onto the wall. Stephens performed an excellent backward somersault, with pike, when a chicken head snapped off the slab. 22m. (crux) Up choss and good crack to small roof of T.M., then move out right and up juggy wall and fine short slab. Belay on ledge as for T.M.

  1. 8m. As for pitch 2 of Tontons Macoutes, The wide crack/corner. Abseil off large bollard at the back of the pinnacle.

FA: A.Stephens, R.Curtis, 1984

3

Start: The chimney approx. 10m. left of 'We Wont Get Fooled Again'.

  1. 30m. Chimney then jam to the top.

FA: A.Stephens, B.Birchall, 1984

4

Start: A left facing chimney that gets wider higher up.

  1. 35m. Easy chimneying leads to harder chimneying at half height. Pro is spaced out on the top half. Take large gear.

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, 1984

5
24 Bangin’ Beava Trad 40m

Start: The crack 2m. right of the big flake on the overhanging wall.

  1. 25m. Up overhanging crack (crux) , move into crack on left, and up corner, step right to a big flake. Up flake to belay on top of it.

  2. 15m. Up crack on left and step right and easy ground to top.

FA: P.Colyvan, A.Stephens (alt leads),L.Dixon, 1984

6
12 Day Dream Trad 20m

Start: Up on a ledge on the right-hand end of the main cliff, past Bangin Beava. A great introduction to hand jamming.

  1. 20m. A short chimney section leads to a classic hand crack.

FA: L.Dixon, A.Stephens, 1984

7
17 Soft Touch Trad 22m

Start: Start in a gully at the right-hand end of the main cliff, just left of 'Cheap Regrets' 5m right of 'Day Dream'.

  1. 22m. 4m. Up the gully, then step left around the tree, then up the diagonal crack, with a short delicate slab finish.

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, 1984

8
22 Cheap Regrets Trad 20m

Start: Just left of Soft Touch, a rounded lowangled arete, harder than it looks. Take a sling for a nubbin runner. A very serious lead.

  1. 20m. Giggle at the grade and motor up to a stance above steep section. Shake shit from your pants and go for the top. Stop shaking and set up a suss belay.

FA: P.Colyvan, B.Birchalll, S.Gay, 1984