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On the Southern side there is only one route to date. This is 'Morlock'. It follows a crack that goes from the Southern side of the rock to the Northern (main cliff) side. The potential for many other routes on the Southern side is endless. However you’ll need electronic technology to protect most new routes.

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14 Morlock Trad 63m

Start: Best do this in summer. A chimney with a chockstone at about half-way. I can’t remember where it starts. Not far from the Western end of the cliff.

  1. 40m. Up twin cracks then left to base of chimney. Out and around a squeeze then deeper into chimney. Up the crack deep in the chimney (crux) , move up to and squeeze inside the chockstone, then up to belay where chimney becomes horizontal.

  2. 23m. Follow the horizontal chimney through to the other side of the mountain.

FA: A.Stephens, E.Sharp, 1979