A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
For more information refer to our Usage policy
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
Long/Lat: 152.231903, -30.439685
From Armidale take the Grafton/Dorrigo Road for approx. 79km to the turn-off to the park. Follow the dirt road for 7km. to the Barokee Rest Area. Park here then follow the walking track for approx. 2km. to the walls of Cathedral Rock. All climbs, except 'Morlock', are on the sunny 'North side'.
The best time to climb here is autumn, late spring or on a still, sunny winter’s day. Take out all your rubbish and no fires please.
Due to the popularity of other crags in the Armidale/New England area, Cathedral Rock hasn’t produced many new routes since its discovery as a climbing area in 1979. The history of this crag spans only two years. In the first of those two years, 1979, access to the cliff was more reminiscent of a minor bush-walk. For the second part of this history, 1984, access was greatly improved with a picnic/camping area and a pleasant track leading to the crag.
In 1979 Ed Sharp convinced Al Stephens that there was a huge amount of rock to climb at Cathedral Rock. In those days there was a locked gate at the aqueduct. Bushwalkers parked here and walked several kilometres down the road, then cross-country to the rock. Ed and Al, being very cunning, phoned the D.C.A.(who administer the Radar on Round Mountain) and convinced them to leave the gate open for them. They drove to the bottom of the hill (the site of the current gate) then walked across to the rock. After some exploring they found and completed 'Morlock' (14), a climb that goes from one side of the rock to the other. They realised the great potential of the place but didn’t return until several years later.
1984 was quite a huge year for Cathedral Rock. Stephens convinced Larry Dixon of the possibility of new routes waiting in the warm winter sun. Stephens led 'Soft Touch' (17), in May and they returned in June for Dixon to lead 'Day Dream' (12), while Stephens did the big chimney 'We Won’t Get Fooled Again' (16). Stephens returned the same month with Richard Curtis to put up two climbs on the isolated pillar to the left of the walk-in track. Curtis glided up 'Tontons Macoutes' (22) while from the same start Stephens went up, did a backward somersault off, then up again, 'Street Café' (21). In August Stephens led Brian Birchall up the chimney 'Instrument Of Revenge' (17). Paul (Animal) Colyvan got wind of the possibility of new routes and in December, with Birchall and Simon Gay put up the very scary and dangerous 'Cheap Regrets' (22). The same month Colyvan returned with Stephens and Dixon to do 'Bangin’ Beava' (24).
Well that’s it for now. There are still some cracks left but the best routes will be the walls and faces littered with chicken heads. Protection will require the use of modern technology. It’s all there waiting for you!
Long/Lat: 152.249686, -30.441969
Walk along the track until the split, then head left for 50m then turn right and the magic bean is obvious and only 20m up hill from the track.
Up the left hump
Start with knees under the cave, mantle and up
Start under the bean as far back as possible, traverse through roof and up to right.
Start at underbelly and link under through magic bean out other side.
Long/Lat: 152.250722, -30.433291
As you approach the main cliff from the track, you will see a wide crack up high to the left of the track. This is the second pitch of Tontons Macoutes and Street Cafe. To get to the start, scrub bash across to the base of the pillar.
Start: Below a crack with a 'rock cowpat' at about head height. The climb takes the crack which leads to superb climbing out left.
FA: R.Curtis, A.Stephens,(alt leads), 1984
Start: As for T.M. The chossy crack, then move out right onto the wall. Stephens performed an excellent backward somersault, with pike, when a chicken head snapped off the slab. 22m. (crux) Up choss and good crack to small roof of T.M., then move out right and up juggy wall and fine short slab. Belay on ledge as for T.M.
FA: A.Stephens, R.Curtis, 1984
Instrument Of Revenge
Start: The chimney approx. 10m. left of 'We Wont Get Fooled Again'.
FA: A.Stephens, B.Birchall, 1984
We Won't Get Fooled Again
Start: A left facing chimney that gets wider higher up.
FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, 1984
Start: The crack 2m. right of the big flake on the overhanging wall.
FA: P.Colyvan, A.Stephens (alt leads),L.Dixon, 1984
Start: Up on a ledge on the right-hand end of the main cliff, past Bangin Beava. A great introduction to hand jamming.
FA: L.Dixon, A.Stephens, 1984
FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, 1984
Start: Just left of Soft Touch, a rounded lowangled arete, harder than it looks. Take a sling for a nubbin runner. A very serious lead.
FA: P.Colyvan, B.Birchalll, S.Gay, 1984
Long/Lat: 152.250559, -30.433915
On the Southern side there is only one route to date. This is 'Morlock'. It follows a crack that goes from the Southern side of the rock to the Northern (main cliff) side. The potential for many other routes on the Southern side is endless. However you’ll need electronic technology to protect most new routes.
Start: Best do this in summer. A chimney with a chockstone at about half-way. I can’t remember where it starts. Not far from the Western end of the cliff.
FA: A.Stephens, E.Sharp, 1979
A bit of a long walk in but has some cool granite features not seen anywhere else in the New England. Best approached from the Native Dog campground on the Guyra - Ebor road.
A couple different groups have spent time working stuff around 2010-2011 but not much recorded.
|12||Day Dream||20m||1.2. North side|
|14||Morlock||63m||1.3. South side|
|16||We Won't Get Fooled Again||35m||1.2. North side|
|17||Instrument Of Revenge||30m||1.2. North side|
|Soft Touch||22m||1.2. North side|
|V1||Hump||1.1. Magic bean|
|V2||Underbelly||1.1. Magic bean|
|21||Street Café||30m||1.2. North side|
|22||Cheap Regrets||20m||1.2. North side|
|Tontons Macoutes||35m||1.2. North side|
|V3||Magic bean||1.1. Magic bean|
|24||Bangin’ Beava||40m||1.2. North side|
|V8||Magic project||1.1. Magic bean|