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Table of contents

1. Cathedral Rocks 71 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.231903, -30.439685

Approach:

From Armidale take the Grafton/Dorrigo Road for approx. 79km to the turn-off to the park. Follow the dirt road for 7km. to the Barokee Rest Area. Park here then follow the walking track for approx. 2km. to the walls of Cathedral Rock. All climbs, except 'Morlock', are on the sunny 'North side'.

The best time to climb here is autumn, late spring or on a still, sunny winter’s day. Take out all your rubbish and no fires please.

History:

Due to the popularity of other crags in the Armidale/New England area, Cathedral Rock hasn’t produced many new routes since its discovery as a climbing area in 1979. The history of this crag spans only two years. In the first of those two years, 1979, access to the cliff was more reminiscent of a minor bush-walk. For the second part of this history, 1984, access was greatly improved with a picnic/camping area and a pleasant track leading to the crag.

In 1979 Ed Sharp convinced Al Stephens that there was a huge amount of rock to climb at Cathedral Rock. In those days there was a locked gate at the aqueduct. Bushwalkers parked here and walked several kilometres down the road, then cross-country to the rock. Ed and Al, being very cunning, phoned the D.C.A.(who administer the Radar on Round Mountain) and convinced them to leave the gate open for them. They drove to the bottom of the hill (the site of the current gate) then walked across to the rock. After some exploring they found and completed 'Morlock' (14), a climb that goes from one side of the rock to the other. They realised the great potential of the place but didn’t return until several years later.

1984 was quite a huge year for Cathedral Rock. Stephens convinced Larry Dixon of the possibility of new routes waiting in the warm winter sun. Stephens led 'Soft Touch' (17), in May and they returned in June for Dixon to lead 'Day Dream' (12), while Stephens did the big chimney 'We Won’t Get Fooled Again' (16). Stephens returned the same month with Richard Curtis to put up two climbs on the isolated pillar to the left of the walk-in track. Curtis glided up 'Tontons Macoutes' (22) while from the same start Stephens went up, did a backward somersault off, then up again, 'Street Café' (21). In August Stephens led Brian Birchall up the chimney 'Instrument Of Revenge' (17). Paul (Animal) Colyvan got wind of the possibility of new routes and in December, with Birchall and Simon Gay put up the very scary and dangerous 'Cheap Regrets' (22). The same month Colyvan returned with Stephens and Dixon to do 'Bangin’ Beava' (24).

Well that’s it for now. There are still some cracks left but the best routes will be the walls and faces littered with chicken heads. Protection will require the use of modern technology. It’s all there waiting for you!

1.1. Magic bean 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.249686, -30.441969

Description:

Walk along the track until the split, then head left for 50m then turn right and the magic bean is obvious and only 20m up hill from the track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hump

Up the left hump

V1Boulder
2 Underbelly

Start with knees under the cave, mantle and up

V2Boulder
3 *** Magic bean

Start under the bean as far back as possible, traverse through roof and up to right.

V3Boulder
4 Magic project

Start at underbelly and link under through magic bean out other side.

V10Boulder Project

1.2. North side 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.250722, -30.433291

Description:

As you approach the main cliff from the track, you will see a wide crack up high to the left of the track. This is the second pitch of Tontons Macoutes and Street Cafe. To get to the start, scrub bash across to the base of the pillar.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Tontons Macoutes

Start: Below a crack with a 'rock cowpat' at about head height. The climb takes the crack which leads to superb climbing out left.

  1. 27m. (crux) Tricky move up over 'cowpat' and up the crack to a small roof. From here swing left to the V-groove. Up this to belay on ledge.

  2. 8m. Straight up the large corner/crack. Abseil off the back via a very large bollard.

FA: R.Curtis, A.Stephens,(alt leads), 1984

22Trad 35m
2 * Street Café

Start: As for T.M. The chossy crack, then move out right onto the wall. Stephens performed an excellent backward somersault, with pike, when a chicken head snapped off the slab.

  1. 22m. (crux) Up choss and good crack to small roof of T.M., then move out right and up juggy wall and fine short slab. Belay on ledge as for T.M.

  2. 8m. As for pitch 2 of Tontons Macoutes, The wide crack/corner. Abseil off large bollard at the back of the pinnacle.

FA: A.Stephens, R.Curtis, 1984

21Trad 30m
3 Instrument Of Revenge

Start: The chimney approx. 10m. left of 'We Wont Get Fooled Again'.

  1. 30m. Chimney then jam to the top.

FA: A.Stephens, B.Birchall, 1984

17Trad 30m
4 We Won't Get Fooled Again

Start: A left facing chimney that gets wider higher up.

  1. 35m. Easy chimneying leads to harder chimneying at half height. Pro is spaced out on the top half. Take large gear.

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, 1984

16Trad 35m
5 Bangin’ Beava

Start: The crack 2m. right of the big flake on the overhanging wall.

  1. 25m. Up overhanging crack (crux) , move into crack on left, and up corner, step right to a big flake. Up flake to belay on top of it.

  2. 15m. Up crack on left and step right and easy ground to top.

FA: P.Colyvan, A.Stephens (alt leads),L.Dixon, 1984

24Trad 40m
6 Day Dream

Start: Up on a ledge on the right-hand end of the main cliff, past Bangin Beava. A great introduction to hand jamming.

  1. 20m. A short chimney section leads to a classic hand crack.

FA: L.Dixon, A.Stephens, 1984

12Trad 20m
7 Soft Touch

Start: Start in a gully at the right-hand end of the main cliff, just left of 'Cheap Regrets' 5m right of 'Day Dream'.

  1. 22m. 4m. Up the gully, then step left around the tree, then up the diagonal crack, with a short delicate slab finish.

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, 1984

17Trad 22m
8 Cheap Regrets

Start: Just left of Soft Touch, a rounded lowangled arete, harder than it looks. Take a sling for a nubbin runner. A very serious lead.

  1. 20m. Giggle at the grade and motor up to a stance above steep section. Shake shit from your pants and go for the top. Stop shaking and set up a suss belay.

FA: P.Colyvan, B.Birchalll, S.Gay, 1984

22Trad 20m

1.3. South side 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.250559, -30.433915

Description:

On the Southern side there is only one route to date. This is 'Morlock'. It follows a crack that goes from the Southern side of the rock to the Northern (main cliff) side. The potential for many other routes on the Southern side is endless. However you’ll need electronic technology to protect most new routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Morlock

Start: Best do this in summer. A chimney with a chockstone at about half-way. I can’t remember where it starts. Not far from the Western end of the cliff.

  1. 40m. Up twin cracks then left to base of chimney. Out and around a squeeze then deeper into chimney. Up the crack deep in the chimney (crux) , move up to and squeeze inside the chockstone, then up to belay where chimney becomes horizontal.

  2. 23m. Follow the horizontal chimney through to the other side of the mountain.

FA: A.Stephens, E.Sharp, 1979

14Trad 63m

1.4. Woolpack rocks 0 routes in Sector

Description:

A bit of a long walk in but has some cool granite features not seen anywhere else in the New England. Best approached from the Native Dog campground on the Guyra - Ebor road.

History:

A couple different groups have spent time working stuff around 2010-2011 but not much recorded.

1.5. Boon Docks 58 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder
Description:

Fun bouldering / climbing area with some fun lines.

Approach:

2mins

1.5.1. Road Boulders 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

First cluster of boulders you come to about 50m from road

1.5.1.1. Perched Boulder 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
Description:

On the road side of the cluster, obvious perched boulder

Approach:

2 mins

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Perched

Up out of hole on perched boulder

FA: Alan Ezzy

V2Boulder
1.5.1.2. Gee's Bloc 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
Description:

One of the first boulders you come to, nice clean rock

Approach:

2 mins

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Gee's problem

SDS on lefthand detached block, then up layback to jugs

FA: Gordon Grant, 2013

V2Boulder 3m
2 * Aza's Mantle

Hard campus moves to mantle

FA: Aza Wells, 2013

V4Boulder 3m
3 Rail project

Traverse the obvious sloper rail from Gee's Problem to Aza's Mantle. Looks really hard

Boulder Project 4m
1.5.1.3. Knob Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
Summary:
Description:

Directly behind Gee's Bloc

Approach:

2 mins

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Knobbly Edges

face on right side of Knob Boulder

V0Boulder
2 *** Knob Mantle

Start just right of obvious Knob, up to knob and top out

V1Boulder
3 Knob Mantle Left

left start to Knob Mantle

V2Boulder
4 * Flaked

Actually on the backside of Gee's Bloc, up thin face on flakes and edges tending leftish

V1Boulder
5 Gastoned

Same start as Flaked but up slab to the right.

V3Boulder
1.5.1.4. Green Sheep Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
Description:

Obvious large boulder next to Knob Boulder

Approach:

2 mins

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 High Step

Left side of Green Sheep Boulder. Up scooped rock

FA: Alan Ezzy

V1Boulder
2 Project

up left side

Boulder
3 The Green Sheep

Up the obvious Flake

V1Boulder 5m
1.5.1.5. Smooth Boulder 1 route in Unknown
Summary:
Description:

Behind the other established bouldering

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Smooth as Eggs

Slap to rail then move right to mantle

FA: Artie Schultz, 2013

V2Boulder 3m

1.5.2. Cluster 2 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

2nd cluster of boulders you come to, really only one boulder that looks worthwhile

Approach:

5 minutes

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project

arête project

Boulder Project 4m

1.5.3. Main Docks 36 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Boulder
Description:

3rd cluster of boulders you come to with some very large ones

1.5.3.1. Salubrious Boulder 8 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Closest boulder to the Water Hole

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Salubrious Sacs SDS

Sit down start then up arete

FA: Artie Schultz, 26th Sep

V7Boulder 5m
2 Salubrious Sacs Stand

FA: Artie Schultz

V3Boulder
3 Al's Variant

First moves of Salubrious Sacs Stand then step left onto slab

FA: Alan Ezzy

V3Boulder 3m
4 Salubrious

Obvious line up the middle of the wall

FA: Artie Schultz

V1Boulder
5 Salubrislab

1m right of Salubrious

FA: Artie Schultz

V1Boulder 3m
6 Salubrious Backside

Obvious features on the back wall of the bloc

FA: Luke Cornish

V3Boulder 3m
7 Aza's Problem

Same start as Back Side Traverse, but go straight up on edges to a jug

FA: Aza Wells

V2Boulder 3m
8 Back Side Traverse

Backside of boulder, rail traverse from right to left then mantel

FA: Gordon Grant

V2Boulder
1.5.3.2. Mini Arete 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Next to the Waterhole

Approach:

10 mins

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mini Arete

SDS left arete

FA: Artie Schultz, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
1.5.3.3. Prow Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Very obvious prow boulder

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pebble Press

start on nice rail below left arete and mantle onto boulder

FA: Alan Ezzy

V4Boulder
2 Mossy Eyeballs

Start as for left arete but continue lip traverse

FA: Alan Ezzy

V6Boulder
3 Super project

Tiny nails holds at the start, with some better features up high, looks basically impossible but maybe something for the freaks to try

Boulder Project 4m
1.5.3.4. Pedestal Front Side 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Free Standing Pedestal behing water hole boulder

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Dry Ice

bouldery start to gain crack then up the crack to top out boulder. Rap off bollard on top of boulder

18Trad 12m
2 Heinious Offwidth

Attempted but not yet freed. bring your number 6's

Trad
1.5.3.5. Pedestal Back Side 10 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Back Side of the Pedesal

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Shit-tastic Extension

Start further right round the boulder on small pockets and traverse left to meet Shit-tastic

FA: Artie Schultz

V3Boulder 4m
2 Shit-tastic

Right arete on big flake to rail and top out

FA: Luke Cornish

V1Boulder 3m
3 Aza's Dyno

Big huck off edges to the rail

FA: Aza Wells

V4Boulder 3m
4 ** Left Arete

Left Arete. Awesome. Start on sharp fin then straight up.

FA: Alan Ezzy

V5Boulder
5 Sloper-tastic

Start 2m left of Left Arete, traverse the slopers and top out

FA: Gordon Grant, Aza Wells

V1Boulder 3m
6 Crack Traverse

Start in Chinmney, keep feet off back wall and climb crack to airy traverse finish

V0Boulder
7 Aza's Face

Face and step left, a bit scary

FA: Aza Wells

V3Boulder 4m
8 Crack

Crack

Boulder
9 Aza's Pockets

1m left of Arete, pocket and edge, then up edges to top out

FA: Aza Wells

Boulder 3m
10 Arete

Over Hung Featured Arete

V2Boulder
1.5.3.6. Between the Boulders 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Between the large boulders

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bird is the Word

Start on left side of flake, traverse

V0Boulder 2m
2 Word is the Bird

start on right side of flake, traverse

V1Boulder 2m
3 Crack

Sit start and up crack

V1Boulder
1.5.3.7. Trigrams Cluster 5 routes in Unknown
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

About 100m up the hill from the Pedestal, three obvious boulders

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flake

Obvious flake 2m left of Trigrams

V0Boulder 3m
2 Trigrams

Sitstart at little orange streak, crimps to jug and top out

FA: Artie Schultz

V2Boulder 3m
3 Project

2m right of Trigrams

Boulder Project 3m
4 Mini

Middle boulder strange rockover

FA: Artie Schultz

V2Boulder 2m
5 ** Finland

Overhung arête, awesome. Start with right hand on low crimp and left on blocky feature above.

FA: Alan Ezzy

V7Boulder 4m
1.5.3.8. Rasengan Bloc 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Continue about 50m past and down to the left of Trigrams Cluster

Approach:

10 mins

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Rasengan Project

Hard first move, then follow rail to top out, has been done as a jump start problem

Boulder Project 3m
2 Kunai

Start on obvious blocky jug, climb arete

FA: Artie Schultz, 26th Sep

V1Boulder 3m
1.5.3.9. Sharingan Bloc 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Opposite Rasengan Bloc

Approach:

10 mins

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sharingan Project

Perfect letterbox start to hard crimping

Boulder Project 5m
2 Rinnegan Project

Awesome looking highball project, opposite side of the boulder to Sharingan Project

Boulder Project 6m

1.5.4. Lower Maze 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Obvious jumble of boulders across from the Salubrious boulder.

1.5.4.1. Sabbatical Boulder 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
Description:

Bottom of the Lower Maze

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Sabbatical

Blunt arête

FA: Artie Schultz, 2013

V2Boulder 4m
1.5.4.2. Sharkfin Bloc 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
Description:

Behind the Sabbatical Boulder

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mike's Psyche

The boulder directly to the left of Sharkfin Rodeo

FA: Artie Schultz, 28th Sep

V0Boulder 3m
2 * Sharkfin Rodeo

Arete with features down low and a totally blank topout

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2014

V5Boulder 3m
3 * Playing in the Sharks Mouth

Opposite arête of Sharkfin boulder, in the corridor behind Sabbatical. SDS on the jug and climb crimps to top out

FA: Artie Schultz, 2013

V1Boulder 4m

1.5.5. The Maze 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Edge of the Maze, up the hill from the huge whale boulders, cool fused cracks

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Bubbles

Up Tending Left

FA: Alan Ezzy

V5Boulder
2 *** Bubbles Direct

Straight up cracked Face

FA: Alan Ezzy

V6Boulder
3 Traverse

Traverse the rail to the jug. extension into Big V awaits

FA: Steve Hawkshaw

V3Boulder
4 Big V

Sit Start climb big V then slab top out

FA: Steve Hawkshaw

V2Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
12 Day Dream Trad 20m 1.2. North side
14 Morlock Trad 63m 1.3. South side
V0 Knobbly Edges Boulder 1.5.1.3. Knob Boulder
Crack Traverse Boulder 1.5.3.5. Pedestal Back Side
Bird is the Word Boulder 2m 1.5.3.6. Between the Boulders
Flake Boulder 3m 1.5.3.7. Trigrams Cluster
Mike's Psyche Boulder 3m 1.5.4.2. Sharkfin Bloc
16 We Won't Get Fooled Again Trad 35m 1.2. North side
17 Instrument Of Revenge Trad 30m 1.2. North side
Soft Touch Trad 22m 1.2. North side
18 * Dry Ice Trad 12m 1.5.3.4. Pedestal Front Side
V1 * Hump Boulder 1.1. Magic bean
* Flaked Boulder 1.5.1.3. Knob Boulder
*** Knob Mantle Boulder 1.5.1.3. Knob Boulder
High Step Boulder 1.5.1.4. Green Sheep Boulder
The Green Sheep Boulder 5m 1.5.1.4. Green Sheep Boulder
Salubrious Boulder 1.5.3.1. Salubrious Boulder
Salubrislab Boulder 3m 1.5.3.1. Salubrious Boulder
Mini Arete Boulder 3m 1.5.3.2. Mini Arete
Shit-tastic Boulder 3m 1.5.3.5. Pedestal Back Side
Sloper-tastic Boulder 3m 1.5.3.5. Pedestal Back Side
Crack Boulder 1.5.3.6. Between the Boulders
Word is the Bird Boulder 2m 1.5.3.6. Between the Boulders
Kunai Boulder 3m 1.5.3.8. Rasengan Bloc
* Playing in the Sharks Mouth Boulder 4m 1.5.4.2. Sharkfin Bloc
V2 Underbelly Boulder 1.1. Magic bean
** Perched Boulder 1.5.1.1. Perched Boulder
* Gee's problem Boulder 3m 1.5.1.2. Gee's Bloc
Knob Mantle Left Boulder 1.5.1.3. Knob Boulder
Smooth as Eggs Boulder 3m 1.5.1.5. Smooth Boulder
Aza's Problem Boulder 3m 1.5.3.1. Salubrious Boulder
Back Side Traverse Boulder 1.5.3.1. Salubrious Boulder
Arete Boulder 1.5.3.5. Pedestal Back Side
Mini Boulder 2m 1.5.3.7. Trigrams Cluster
Trigrams Boulder 3m 1.5.3.7. Trigrams Cluster
* Sabbatical Boulder 4m 1.5.4.1. Sabbatical Boulder
Big V Boulder 1.5.5. The Maze
21 * Street Café Trad 30m 1.2. North side
22 Cheap Regrets Trad 20m 1.2. North side
** Tontons Macoutes Trad 35m 1.2. North side
V3 *** Magic bean Boulder 1.1. Magic bean
Gastoned Boulder 1.5.1.3. Knob Boulder
Al's Variant Boulder 3m 1.5.3.1. Salubrious Boulder
Salubrious Backside Boulder 3m 1.5.3.1. Salubrious Boulder
Salubrious Sacs Stand Boulder 1.5.3.1. Salubrious Boulder
Aza's Face Boulder 4m 1.5.3.5. Pedestal Back Side
Shit-tastic Extension Boulder 4m 1.5.3.5. Pedestal Back Side
Traverse Boulder 1.5.5. The Maze
V4 * Aza's Mantle Boulder 3m 1.5.1.2. Gee's Bloc
Pebble Press Boulder 1.5.3.3. Prow Boulder
Aza's Dyno Boulder 3m 1.5.3.5. Pedestal Back Side
24 Bangin’ Beava Trad 40m 1.2. North side
V5 ** Left Arete Boulder 1.5.3.5. Pedestal Back Side
* Sharkfin Rodeo Boulder 3m 1.5.4.2. Sharkfin Bloc
*** Bubbles Boulder 1.5.5. The Maze
V6 Mossy Eyeballs Boulder 1.5.3.3. Prow Boulder
*** Bubbles Direct Boulder 1.5.5. The Maze
V7 *** Salubrious Sacs SDS Boulder 5m 1.5.3.1. Salubrious Boulder
** Finland Boulder 4m 1.5.3.7. Trigrams Cluster
V10 Magic project Boulder Project 1.1. Magic bean
? Rail project Boulder Project 4m 1.5.1.2. Gee's Bloc
Project Boulder 1.5.1.4. Green Sheep Boulder
Project Boulder Project 4m 1.5.2. Cluster 2
Super project Boulder Project 4m 1.5.3.3. Prow Boulder
Heinious Offwidth Trad 1.5.3.4. Pedestal Front Side
Aza's Pockets Boulder 3m 1.5.3.5. Pedestal Back Side
Crack Boulder 1.5.3.5. Pedestal Back Side
Project Boulder Project 3m 1.5.3.7. Trigrams Cluster
* Rasengan Project Boulder Project 3m 1.5.3.8. Rasengan Bloc
Rinnegan Project Boulder Project 6m 1.5.3.9. Sharingan Bloc
Sharingan Project Boulder Project 5m 1.5.3.9. Sharingan Bloc