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Summary

Small easy access crag close to town

Description

Moderate sport climbs on local quartzite, with easy access from Alice Springs. You could ride your bike... Climbs are short but challenging.

Access issues

Located within the Telegraph Station Conservation Reserve, there are no access restrictions.

Approach

Head N on the Stuart Highway out of Alice Springs for about 5km, then turn R onto a dirt track - ‘The Old Sturt Highway’. If you get to the Charles River bridge, then you’ve gone a little too far. Follow dirt track down, and then to the top of the rise (high clearance vehicle may be required), and park where track turns a sharp L and begins to head downhill under the bridge. The cliff is down R in the creek bed. Walking time 2 minutes.

History

Most of this cliff was bolted and never written up prior to 1995. Therefore most FA's around this time are First Recorded Ascents.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 Where's Wally Sport 6m

Just in case you need that big wall experience - this climb is a complete waste of time. Tucked away where the creek takes a bend 100m L of the main cliff. Solo past the D-shackles, then jump off into the sand below. DBB to avoid such an epic decent.

FA: Allison Garrett, Dominic Leadbetter, Kieran Culhane, 1995

2

The first climb on the L end of the main cliff. Climb prominent crack on the L side of the small arete. Tend R from small ledge halfway up. BB.

FA: Allison Garrett, Steve Thornton, 1995

3
12 Alley Cat Trad 8m

L trending crack 1m R of TOMP (just R of arete) to small ledge. Step R, and up to belay as for TOMP

FA: Allison Garrett, Colin Crowe, 1995

4
18 Unsuspected Sport 10m

FA: Krish Seewraj, Jason Geres

5
19 * Tricky Moments Trad 10m

Large scoop 2m R of AC to block, up to high BR, then straight up past another BR to DBB.

FA: Allison Garrett, Steve Thornton, 1995

6
20 * Face Value Trad 10m

Start 1m R of TM, directly under FH. Climb though bulge and move up face past 2 BR. Belay as for TM

FA: Allison Garrett, Steve Thornton, 1995

7
18 All Chossed Up Trad 10m

Weakness 1m R of FV. Straight up ramp above to BB

FA: Goshen Watts, Steve Thornton, Damian Auton, 1996

8
21 Poker Face Trad 10m

Face 1.5m L of useless white FH, past BR, then up to BR on SM. Step R up steep bulge to DBB

FA: Goshen Watts, Steve Thornton, 1996

9

A thinner but nicer climb. As for SM, but take line straight up from useless white FH. To get the extra points, don't stray off the line!

FA: Kieran Culhane, Damian Auton, 1994

10
18 Smear Madness Trad 10m

R side of main cliff face. Climb starts 1m R of unused white FH. Climb face on the R of 2 FH, clipping them on the way. At chossy finger ledge head L and up past FH, and over bulge to top. DBB

FA: Allison Garrett, Steve Thornton, 1995

11

Starts 1m R of SM at large scar on rock. Delicate moves past 2 BR, horizontal seam, then another BR. Belay as for SM

12
26 * Razor Blades Sport 8m, 1

A very thin, slightly overhanging bolted line with Br at start a FH and Br at end .

FA: Mark Rewi, 2007

FFA: Justin Taylor, 2013

Open trips

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