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Grade Route

The line with 4 large ringbolts 2m left of the Up for Grabs corner. The first bolt should be stick-clipped or alternatively it can be reached by climbing to the first fixed hanger of Funky Gibbon. Start from ledge, directly up wall past bolt to reach the left edge of roof (crux). Ape out right, clip second bolt over the roof, then thin'n'crispy face past 2 more bolts. Stay out of the gully.

FA: Peter Koval, 1997

Before Skywalker was freed this was the hardest climb in the state for years. Start in the corner below the first major overhang. Some brutal upper body moves allow the bolt to be reached. Traverse left under the roof to reach the groove. More strenuous climbing up this gains the crack, which leads to the finishing headwall past the peg, the same finish as Celestial Way (the guide book says Mainliner, but the topo shows CW instead). Rope drag at the bottom is reduced by clipping the first ringbolt on Kindred Spirit.

FA: Warren Lees

Up to ledge right end of roof, then climb the short flake to clip the fixed hanger on the headwall to the left. Swing out left and claw past a carrot bolt (crux) to a sloping ledge below a bulge and another carrot bolt. Straight up over the bulge for 2m then diagonally left to a small spike/flake. Up left again to enter the large crack then up the wall right of the piton to finish. Alternatively, another good way to finish is as for Gates of Mordor.

FA: Ronald & Ron Master, 1987

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