routes as sport in Churchman's Brook
Back to index
Showing all 27 routes.
|The Short Walls|
|22||Six Minute Increments||17m,|
|20||Frequently Asked Questions||27m,|
|Lost Arrow Area|
|16||Fingers and Toes Variant||110m,|
|18||Fingers and Toes||110m,|
|21||Tap Tap Tremble||210m,|
|18|| Fear and Loathing
The face right of Lost Arrow with horizontal break at half height. Start on Slanting Crack (you might want to place gear on the start) and then move left onto the face with two fixed hangers and one carrot after finishing the face.
|The Super Slab|
|21||Super Slab Direct||230m,|
|21|| Fill It In
Start as for First Route, then go directly up the wall right of the crack past carrot bolt, then past fixed hanger. Continue right to another carrot bolt and up to top.
FA: Phillip Calais & Jo Hoffman, 1990
Climb up jugs to tree and sling it. Directly up past tree and move right to bolt. Hard moves see you high above bolt, but keep climbing up easier rock to a bolted anchor. Do not fall!
|24|| Snatches and Lays
Up arete left of The Sting chimney. First FH is high, can place large cam in back of groove fpor protection, however, this will addd rope drag. Climb up arete with increasing desperation untill 4th FH, then run it ou up left side of groove. Best hard climb at Churchmans Brook
|Slash and Burn Wall|
|25|| Minds to Blow
Start 2m left of Slash and Burn. First clip is rather high. Delicately climb face past two more bolts, with a big move past blank section.
|18|| Slash and Burn
The sport route with 5 fixed hangers. Up overhanging start, layback over bulge to clip third bolt (crux). Directly up face on small holds, staying out of Gabbro Grove, past two more bolts to top. Two ring bolts at the anchor.
FA: Al Rokich & Dave Moyses, 1989
|21|| Bodgy Dolts
Climb jugs on arete to gain first bolt and struggle up desperate hold to reach second bolt. Crux is moving from the 4th to thr 5th bolt. Some brave people skip the 5th bolt as it can be difficult to clip. Re-bolted in '92 so the name no longer applies, really.
FA: Gary Matier, 1989
|19||Celestial Way Direct||30m|
|20|| Funky Gibbon
Strenuous climbing 2m right of Celestial Way. From the ledge climb overhanging arete past two fixed hangers to join Mainliner at piton.
FA: Shane Richardson, 1990
|23|| Kindred Spirit
The line with 4 large ringbolts 2m left of the Up for Grabs corner. The first bolt should be stick-clipped or alternatively it can be reached by climbing to the first fixed hanger of Funky Gibbon. Start from ledge, directly up wall past bolt to reach the left edge of roof (crux). Ape out right, clip second bolt over the roof, then thin'n'crispy face past 2 more bolts. Stay out of the gully.
FA: Peter Koval, 1997
|22|| Up For Grabs
Before Skywalker was freed this was the hardest climb in the state for years. Start in the corner below the first major overhang. Some brutal upper body moves allow the bolt to be reached. Traverse left under the roof to reach the groove. More strenuous climbing up this gains the crack, which leads to the finishing headwall past the peg, the same finish as Celestial Way (the guide book says Mainliner, but the topo shows CW instead). Rope drag at the bottom is reduced by clipping the first ringbolt on Kindred Spirit.
FA: Warren Lees
Up to ledge right end of roof, then climb the short flake to clip the fixed hanger on the headwall to the left. Swing out left and claw past a carrot bolt (crux) to a sloping ledge below a bulge and another carrot bolt. Straight up over the bulge for 2m then diagonally left to a small spike/flake. Up left again to enter the large crack then up the wall right of the piton to finish. Alternatively, another good way to finish is as for Gates of Mordor.
FA: Ronald & Ron Master, 1987
|The West End|
|19|| Red Giant
1 carrot, 4 fixed hangers
FA: Mike Smith
Showing all 27 routes.