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Excellent compact sandstone sea cliffing a long way from civilization. All day shade.


This is a compact sandstone crag that is English gritstone like in appearance and climbing style. The climbs follow strong natural lines, using mostly trad gear. The look and feel to the cliff is a compact and darker version of Point Perp, but with generally better rock quality. Expect to see seals and dolphins playing off the rocks and fish swarming in the kelp. Crabs scuttle at your belayers feet whilst anemones cling to the rock pools along the base of the crag. There is great snorkelling straight off the rocks if the swell is low. There is evidence of huge waves, with hunks of wood wedged into cracks 10m off the ground. You will always have the place to yourself.

Every route is good and is worth doing. I refuse to give anything three stars, thus there are routes with no stars in this guide. Zero star routes are still recommend, but will usually not be as sustained as the higher starred routes. Generally the rock quality is superb, a fine grained sandstone which forms fluted cracks and pockets. Most routes have had one ascent, so make sure you check fragile looking holds before committing to deliberate run-outs. Because the cliff faces south it gets very little direct sun and needs a dry windy day to recover from heavy rain or big swells. We found that a wet cliff can dry out in a few hours if the wind is blowing just right. High humidity and a still day can also make the rock horribly greasy. This is not a sport climbing area. Every route in this guide requires trad gear, and most require a full rack, including micro cams. Climbers need to be proficient in placing fiddly gear to really enjoy this area. Offset wires are very useful for the flared cracks. Bolts have been used sparingly and only when no good trad gear is nearby. All bolts are stainless steel glueins. This is a seacliff with high levels of sea spray. Expansion bolts and cad plated crap are not to be used. Glue-in carrot bolts are located along the cliff top, usually well back from the edge. Most routes top-out for a belay off these bolts. This is to minimise the amount of bolts to maintain a low impact. Please respect this ethic and do not add lower-off bolts. Please always anchor or rap off a minimum of two of these bolts at all times. Some routes can be supplemented by trad anchors or tie off the bushes about 15m back from the edge with a long rope. There is still much unclimbed rock in the area. Most of it is choss. Please avoid establishing routes left of Storm Front Crack. The rock quality is much worse then the main wall, and it is much more visible to tourists and rangers. Lets keep this ‘choss sanctuary’ pristine.

Access issues

It's a National Park. Keep a low profile.


How do you get there? Locate Eden in far south coast of NSW. Get map to Ben Boyd National Park. Drive 550km aprox from Melbourne to City Rock day use car park. Follow marked tourist track to water. Look left – that’s the cliffs. The left side is sandy rubbish, the middle is where all the action is. Scramble up to top of cliff on left side. Follow tunnel through thick coastal vegetation and cut across to top of cliff as soon as possible. Walk along cliff edge (with care!) for a few hundred metres to locate large rock cairn on large open rock platform. Salty The Seal is directly below this rock cairn. Look for hidden belay BRs about 4m back from cliff edge. Storm Front Crack is located about 50m back westwards from the rock cairn (the way you just came from). All routes require fixing a rope and rapping in. Bring a spare rope and a rope protector for this purpose.

Where to stay

Great camping in the National Park!


Mixed climbing. Bolts only where there is no trad.


View timeline of historical ascents

Developed by Neil Monteith, Jono Schmidt and Adam Demmert over two trips in 2007.



Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
19 * Storm Front Crack Trad 17m

A strong trad line that looks much worse than it is. Locate rock wedged in tree about 2m back from edge. The crack is visible splitting the cliff edge. Rap from tree into small belay ledge 5m above swell. Stem up v-corner then over bulge. Easily up wide crack then launch up the sustained handcrack to top.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

18 ** Invasion Day Trad 19m

Best trad line on the cliff. Thin seam splitting the orange and grey rock 10m around the left of Salty The Seal. You can see this route from the fishing ledges back at the tourist track. Locate the double BR bolts at the top of the route near the cliff edge. Thin crack to start leads into small left facing cornerette. Great gear and great climbing. Double BR belay.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

25 * Arete (project) Trad 18m

Partially toproped (upper half only)

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

19 * Police Cruiser Trad 20m

Starts at major arête, Traverse diagonally up and right across giant crystals to break through right side of big roof. Com- mitting finish up slabby runnels.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

17 ** Salty The Seal Trad 21m

Good line and great climbing. The easiest way up this section of wall. Start right of the overhung wall and traverse across left on amazing quartz dyke to reach small ledge. Straight up the thin crack above to large left facing corner conclusion.

FFA: Jono Schmidt & Neil Monteith, 2007

23 ** Crystalline Mixed 18m, 4

Start as for Salty The Seal but go straight up to steepness (UB). Swing left and up to big undercling heuco and upwards. Big scoops and bizarre crux. Sustained. Bring some small/ medium cams and some slings for the threads above the last bolt. 4 u-bolts.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

24 ** Barnacle Breath Mixed 18m, 5

Tenuous pocketed crux up blank looking corner. Almost a sport route. Start 3m right of Crystalline. Wander up the nice juggy start then enter the overhung blank corner. Quickly exit right and up pockets then step back into corner. 5 U-bolts. Fist crack size cams to finish.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

21 ** Rolling Swells Mixed 18m, 1

A strong natural line straight up the guts of the main wall. 3m right of Barnacle Breath at undercut crack. Up crack to steep corner, stem this (RB) then up crack to juggy conclusion. Sin- gle U bolt lower-off. Don’t try and top out the grass up above. Bring a full rack.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

23 ** Humidifier Mixed 20m, 4

Conditions were less than ideal on the first ascent. Starts 2m right of RS. Up delicate face to under left side of big roof, monkey out this on jugs then tough lip pull to mantle onto ledge. Stem up open corner to juggy conclusion. 4 u-bolts + medium trad.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007


Big roof. Looked at by Neil but no bolts (yet).

21 * Skiving Sea Monkeys Mixed 20m, 2

A big dark line, which tends to stay wet after heavy rain. Starts 2m right of major blank corner and 6m right of Humidifier. Up unlikely thin face seam (u-bolt) and onto ledge. Swing left over undercut and up left into lift shaft (UB). Stem up this shaft to top. Harder if you are short. Full rack required to #4 SLCD.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

20 * Performing Dolphins Mixed 19m, 3

A bunch of Japanese tourists filmed the equipping of this route. The exposed rounded prow with bouldery gritstone start. Located 6m right of SSM. Edge up start (2 u-bolts) onto ledge. Up face above (UB) to committing finish move. Medi- um cams/wires required.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

20 * Shark Bait Trad 18m

RP special. Daunting line with just enough (small) gear. Starts 6m right of PD, and 2m left of major blank corner. Climb up short wall to ledge. Stem up short closed corner, step right and up to big break (#5 cam). Edge up face above (RPs and tiny cams) to finally reach a good ledge and gear. Easily to top.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

19 Third Time Lucky Trad 17m 91

Committing trad climbing split by three ledges. Starts 3m right of major corner at small right facing corner. Spaced small gear and a long reach move at about 7m. Finish up leftwards into small right facing corner flake. Take standard rack plus micro cams (Black Aliens).

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007


Sustained flakes and one of the best routes here. Continuous rain showers thwarted attempts. Starts 3m right of TTL below open book corner. Stem up this (UB) to horizontal break. Lay- back up wonderful flakes to top.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007


Sustained pod crack climbing with a bit of choss to finish. Starts 2m right of LASTE. Bouldery start to get to first UB. 3 u-bolts. Bring a standard rack to supplement bolts.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

18 * Wedgewood Trad 16m

Major trad excursion through some unlikely territory. A piece of driftwood is wedged in the horizontal halfway up this route! Starts 4m right of chimney slot, at undercut wall. Boulder through roof and then work your way up to easiest break in roof at third height. Swing left and up heucos to top. Bring cams up to #5.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007


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