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Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 * Storm Front Crack Trad 17m

A strong trad line that looks much worse than it is. Locate rock wedged in tree about 2m back from edge. The crack is visible splitting the cliff edge. Rap from tree into small belay ledge 5m above swell. Stem up v-corner then over bulge. Easily up wide crack then launch up the sustained handcrack to top.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

2
18 ** Invasion Day Trad 19m

Best trad line on the cliff. Thin seam splitting the orange and grey rock 10m around the left of Salty The Seal. You can see this route from the fishing ledges back at the tourist track. Locate the double BR bolts at the top of the route near the cliff edge. Thin crack to start leads into small left facing cornerette. Great gear and great climbing. Double BR belay.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

3
25 * Arete (project) Trad 18m

Partially toproped (upper half only)

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

4
19 * Police Cruiser Trad 20m

Starts at major arête, Traverse diagonally up and right across giant crystals to break through right side of big roof. Com- mitting finish up slabby runnels.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

5
17 ** Salty The Seal Trad 21m

Good line and great climbing. The easiest way up this section of wall. Start right of the overhung wall and traverse across left on amazing quartz dyke to reach small ledge. Straight up the thin crack above to large left facing corner conclusion.

FFA: Jono Schmidt & Neil Monteith, 2007

6
23 ** Crystalline Trad 18m

Start as for Salty The Seal but go straight up to steepness (UB). Swing left and up to big undercling heuco and upwards. Big scoops and bizarre crux. Sustained. Bring some small/ medium cams and some slings for the threads above the last bolt. 4 u-bolts.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

7
24 ** Barnacle Breath Trad 18m

Tenuous pocketed crux up blank looking corner. Almost a sport route. Start 3m right of Crystalline. Wander up the nice juggy start then enter the overhung blank corner. Quickly exit right and up pockets then step back into corner. 5 U-bolts. Fist crack size cams to finish.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

8
21 ** Rolling Swells Trad 18m

A strong natural line straight up the guts of the main wall. 3m right of Barnacle Breath at undercut crack. Up crack to steep corner, stem this (RB) then up crack to juggy conclusion. Sin- gle U bolt lower-off. Don’t try and top out the grass up above. Bring a full rack.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

9
23 ** Humidifier Trad 20m

Conditions were less than ideal on the first ascent. Starts 2m right of RS. Up delicate face to under left side of big roof, monkey out this on jugs then tough lip pull to mantle onto ledge. Stem up open corner to juggy conclusion. 4 u-bolts + medium trad.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

10
21 * Skiving Sea Monkeys Mixed 20m, 2

A big dark line, which tends to stay wet after heavy rain. Starts 2m right of major blank corner and 6m right of Humidifier. Up unlikely thin face seam (u-bolt) and onto ledge. Swing left over undercut and up left into lift shaft (UB). Stem up this shaft to top. Harder if you are short. Full rack required to #4 SLCD.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

11

A bunch of Japanese tourists filmed the equipping of this route. The exposed rounded prow with bouldery gritstone start. Located 6m right of SSM. Edge up start (2 u-bolts) onto ledge. Up face above (UB) to committing finish move. Medi- um cams/wires required.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

12
20 * Shark Bait Trad 18m

RP special. Daunting line with just enough (small) gear. Starts 6m right of PD, and 2m left of major blank corner. Climb up short wall to ledge. Stem up short closed corner, step right and up to big break (#5 cam). Edge up face above (RPs and tiny cams) to finally reach a good ledge and gear. Easily to top.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

13
19 Third Time Lucky Trad 17m

Committing trad climbing split by three ledges. Starts 3m right of major corner at small right facing corner. Spaced small gear and a long reach move at about 7m. Finish up leftwards into small right facing corner flake. Take standard rack plus micro cams (Black Aliens).

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

14

Sustained flakes and one of the best routes here. Continuous rain showers thwarted attempts. Starts 3m right of TTL below open book corner. Stem up this (UB) to horizontal break. Lay- back up wonderful flakes to top.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

15

Sustained pod crack climbing with a bit of choss to finish. Starts 2m right of LASTE. Bouldery start to get to first UB. 3 u-bolts. Bring a standard rack to supplement bolts.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

16
18 * Wedgewood Trad 16m

Major trad excursion through some unlikely territory. A piece of driftwood is wedged in the horizontal halfway up this route! Starts 4m right of chimney slot, at undercut wall. Boulder through roof and then work your way up to easiest break in roof at third height. Swing left and up heucos to top. Bring cams up to #5.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

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