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Ethic inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.


View timeline of historical ascents

Bunyip was found by Tristan Ricketts & Paul Daniel sometime around 1999.They called it Bunyip 'cos it was big (relative to the Fort Knox area et al),and not easily found.They also wanted a uniquely Australian name.They started bolting wicked wall then moved on to the larger black wall that faces south (30?m left/North of Wicked wall). Unfortunately they only got a few routes done before Tristan got a job and moved to Sydney.


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Grade Route

1st Pitch - Jump start then climb juggy overhang up to ledge then up to chains. 2nd Pitch - Move up large steps approx 8m, climb corner crack to roof and up past loose block, (but secure) up corner crack to small roof and then up to chains.

FFA: T. Bernutt & M. Bailey, 1999

21 ** Woosca Trad 35m

15m to the right of I.F.T.S. Straight forward and pleasant climbing to crux. Above crux the rock becomes a little softer. Make way up corner crack to ledge.

FFA: M. Bailey & T. Bernutt, 1999

22 Sticky Fingers Mixed 25m, 4

3m to the right of Woosca. Up wall using cams and bolts , a few reachy moves and underclings . Trend a little left around block and then up to mantle . Once on small ledge then up and a little right to chains.

FA: Marc Bailey, 1997

FFA: Leon Grey, 2010

Sweet Glenreagh Mixed Project 25m, 4

3m right of Sticky Fingers. Project - Marc Bailey

385 Parts per Million Trad Project 25m

2m right of Sweet Glenreagh. Project Marc Bailey

20 * Thursday Trad 35m

Up tricky crack then head left up through a bulge to ledge, move to corner. Hard start to gain wall, then up to ledge. Up remaining wall to chains. Climbed as a single pitch but could be easily split into 2 or 3 pitches at ledges.

FFA: B. Milne, T. Bernutt & M. Bailey, 1999


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