Fort Knox Rock climbing105 routes in crag
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The Largest concentration of routes and great rock in the Coffs Area
Fort Knox can be accessed 'from the bottom' with a 2WD (most common approach) or 'from the top' with a 4WD.
- Bottom Access (Preferred)
- Accessible with 2wd (dirt road).
From the west (Glenreagh). This is the most common access from Coffs:
- - From Glenreagh follow Sherwood Ck Rd east, which crosses the river and heads to railway line
- - After Railway line turn Left running parallel with the tracks before veering right into and changing to a windy dirt road.
- - You will cross a bridge over ‘Middle Creek’.
- - You will hit tar again in a lower section of the road. This is a small section of tar before it changes to dirt again. Turn right here, off this tarred bit, down Athol Glen Rd. There is a sawmill over to the right about 100m in from the road.
- - a gravelly road veers off and up to the right, take this road which goes up to sand mine area. Drive 200m and park off to the side near the chain barricade.
From the east (If coming from north of Coffs or if you are travelling down the Pacific Highway):
- - Take the 'Sherwood Creek Road/Upper Corindi/Nana Glen' exit off the Pacific Highway just south of Corindi. The mileage starts when you cross back over the Highway.
- - Veer left to stay on Sherwood Creek Road.
- - Cross Sherwood Creek and turn left onto Athol Glen Rd
- - Turn right onto the unmarked track to the sand quarry
- - Park off to the side at the chain barricade.
Walk 300 m up to the quarry. At old sand quarry walk to the far opposite (south east) side of the sand pit and follow a flat, overgrown 4WD track for about 400m (about 150m after crossing a small gully) until you see a some small cairn and a track heading up the hill. It is a fairly obvious track so keep walking untill you see it. Follow the track until you reach the cliff, between 'The Alcove' and 'Goodvibes Wall'. To access 'The Motherlode' (the closest crag to the quarry) head straight up the track that goes up the hill directly opposite where the road to the quarry enters the quarry (the south west area of the quarry). You can see the big orange overhang. The owners of the land are fine with climbers walking through but please don't do anything to jeopardise this access.
Access from the top
Access to the top of the crag provides an easier walk but a 4WD is needed.
Top Access from Coffs Harbour:
Take the Pacific Highway North. At Moonee take the Moonee Beach/Nana Glen exit and then left at the roundabout onto Solitary Island Way. After about 1.8 km turn west onto Bucca road.
Set your odometer to zero here and use the following mileages:
- turn right onto Sherwood Forest Road
- stay left at the junction with Marys Waterhole road.
- stay left a the junction with Plum Pudding Road.3
- go straight ahead/right at the junction with Waihoo Rd.
- turn right onto Conglomerate Trail (unmarked).
- turn right onto Get Lost Trail.
- park at the end of the road.
From end of road there is a walking track heading down the hill. Walk about 200m down the hill, cross a creek and continue another 50m until a vague track veers right. The track then traverses left around to the Strong Room.
Access is also available via Nana Glen however Waihoo road is often in a poor state so it is best to use the access outlined above.
Top access from Nana Glen.
At Nana Glen turn east onto Bucca Rd. After 1.5km turn left onto Morrows Rd and set your odomenter to zero:
- - Follow Morrows Rd for a few kilometers where it forks.
- - Take the right fork across the railway line. The road now becomes Waihou Rd. Keep going up zig zags until you reach Sherwood Forest Rd
- - Turn a sharp left onto Sherwood Forest Road.
- - Turn right into Conglomerate Trail (unmarked - 4 Wheel drive only) and travel for approx. 1.5 km to the junction of Get Lost Trail and Brush Trail.
- - Veer right down Get Lost Trail and continue on.
- - Park at end of road.
From end of road there is a walking track heading down the hill. Cross a creek and continue another 50m until a vague tack veers right which will take you to the strong room. A fairly well worn trail continues along the top of the cliffs and can be used to access pooh wall.
Fort knox was discovered by Ben Christian and Jeff Gracie on their way to a winter climbing break from Armidale to visit Wonderland crag. After quickly realising the crags potential they met up with he rest of the Armidale crew and moved camp from Wonderlands to the infamous ‘Camp Butthole’ (where the top car park now is but camping is now banned). The first route to be completed was Gordon Lows 'Missing Monkeys' and by the end of the week another 20 routes had been completed. Most of the early development occurred in 1996 and 1997 which was still early days for sport climbing in Australia so some of the anchors are a little experimental! A number of routes on Pooh wall were added in 2001 which pretty much ended the development of new routes at Knox until late 2009 when the Waglands moved into the Area. Nick and Dave bolted a number of hard projects ('Overshadowed' 26 being the pick of the completed ones) and with the aid of others put up a number of routes around the Motherlode' area. In 2011 Steve Hawkshaw showed up with a new drill and gave the main crag a second wind. In a spurt of new route activity Steve and his cronies unearthed a number of hidden gems which have provided a lot more in the 16-20 grade range, many of which had been overlooked amongst the harder lines. In 2012, Allan Ezzy finally sent an abandoned project to establish the hardest line at the cliff 'Monkey See, Monkey Do (28)' and Steve re-discovered the Twilight Wall which had somehow been mostly overlooked even though it is about 50m from the parking lot!
Check out what is happening in Fort Knox.