Fort Knox Mostly sport climbing

99 routes in crag

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Summary

The Largest concentration of routes and great rock in the Coffs Area

Description

Great crag with most routes in the 21-27 range. Majority of routes are on fixed hangers or ring bolts but a few need bolt plates and pieces of gear. Some climbs stay dry in the rain.

Approach

Access from the top

Access to the top of the crag provides an easier walk but needs car with decent clearance as it can be bumpy.

Top Access from Coffs Harbour:

Take the Pacific Highway North. After about 14km turn west onto Bucca road. Set your odometer to zero here and use the following mileages:

  1. After about 4.6km turn right onto Sherwood Forest Road

  2. 12.1km stay left at the junction with Marys Waterhole road.

  3. 15.1km stay left a the junction with Plum Pudding Road.3

  4. 21km go straight ahead/right at the junction with Waihoo Rd.

  5. 25.8km turn right onto Conglomerate Trail.

  6. 27.3km turn right onto Get Lost Trail.

  7. 28.1km park at the end of the road.

From end of road there is a walking track heading down the hill. Walk about 200m down the hill, cross a creek and continue another 50m until a vague track veers right. The track then traverses left around to the Strong Room.

Access is also available via Nana Glen however Waihoo road is often in a poor state so it is best to use the access outlined above. If you are approaching via Nana Glen:

At Nana Glen turn east onto Bucca Rd. After 1.5km turn left onto Morrows Rd and set your odomenter to zero:

  1. 0.0km - Follow Morrows Rd for a few kilometers where it forks.

  2. 5.0km - Take the right fork across the railway line. The road now becomes Waihou Rd. Keep going up zig zags until you reach Sherwood Forest Rd

  3. 12.3km - Turn a sharp left onto Sherwood Forest Road. Continue along Sherwood Forest Road until you reach Conglomerate Trail (sign posted) on your right.

  4. 17.2km - Turn right into Conglomerate Trail (4 Wheel drive) and travel for approx. 1.5 km to the junction of Get Lost Trail and Brush Trail.

  5. 19.7km - Veer right down Get Lost Trail and continue on.

  6. 20.5km - Park at end of road. From end of road there is a walking track heading down the hill. Cross a creek and continue another 50m until a vague tack veers right which will take you to the strong room. A fairly well worn trail continues along the top of the cliffs and can be used to access pooh wall.

Bottom Access

Use this if you are coming in with a 2wd. Total distance from Glenreagh (start) to bottom of Fort Knox is 9.5km.

  1. 0.0km - From Glenreagh follow Sherwood Ck Rd east, which crosses the river and heads to railway line

  2. 0.8km - After Railway line turn Left running parallel with the tracks before veering right into and changing to a windy dirt road.

  3. 5.0km - You will cross a bridge over ‘Middle Creek’.

  4. 8.0km - You will hit tar again in a lower section of the road. This is a small section of tar before it changes to dirt again. Turn right here, off this tarred bit, down Athol Glen Rd. There is a sawmill over to the right about 100m in from the road.

  5. 9.1km - a gravelly road veers off and up to the right (no gates), take this road which goes up to sand mine area. Park off to the side. AT THE MOMENT THE LAST ROAD IS WASHED OUT AT THIS TURN OFF. PARK HERE AND WALK UP TRAIL.

At old sand quarry walk diagonally across the other side of the sand pit (30m). Turn left on the other side and walk along the edge of the quarry (heading south) until you get to the end of the quarry. Continue to follow 4wd track for another 150m or so and a track will head off right. Its an obvious track so keep walking till you see it.. Walk up this track, it will steepen suddenly and become a walking track following old rock cairns. Head uphill and tend left until you reach the cliff, probably around the 'The Alcove' or 'Andy Goodvibe's Wall'.

Ethic

Fort Knox is a sport Crag. There are a few trad lines or mixed routes and theses are marked as such but in general you can have a great day with a handful of quickdraws and a rope.

History

Fort knox was discovered by Ben Christian and Jeff Gracie on their way to a winter climbing break from Armidale to visit Wonderland crag. After quickly realising the crags potential they met up with he rest of the Armidale crew and moved camp from Wonderlands to the infamous ‘Camp Butthole’ (where the top car park now is but camping is now banned). The first route to be completed was Gordon Lows 'Missing Monkeys' and by the end of the week another 20 routes had been completed. Most of the early development occurred in 1996 and 1997 which was still early days for sport climbing in Australia so some of the anchors are a little experimental! A number of routes on Pooh wall were added in 2001 which pretty much ended the development of new routes at Knox until late 2009 when the Waglands moved into the Area. Nick and Dave bolted a number of hard projects ('Overshadowed' 26 being the pick of the completed ones) and with the aid of others put up a number of routes around the Motherlode' area. In 2011 Steve Hawkshaw showed up with a new drill and gave the main crag a second wind. In a spurt of new route activity Steve and his cronies unearthed a number of hidden gems which have provided a lot more in the 16-20 grade range, many of which had been overlooked amongst the harder lines. In 2012, Allan Ezzy finally sent an abandoned project to establish the hardest line at the cliff 'Monkey See, Monkey Do (28)' and Steve re-discovered the Twilight Wall which had somehow been mostly overlooked even though it is about 50m from the parking lot!

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
15
48
12m
5
Wild Dog Cliff
6
12
17m
2
2
30
8m
1
18
203
12m
2
The Alcove Cliff
22
283
14m
4
1
8
10m
15
77
16m
4
Pooh Wall Cliff
12
194
13m
2

Routes

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