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Description:
Vertical Face Morning sun Wet in rain

The first section of cliff that you approach from the top car park. The climbs are described from left tonight. This contains a good selection of moderate routes. The middle section of the cliff can drip after rain. Most routes are equipped with fixed hangers and chain anchors.

Ethic: inherited from Fort Knox
Well established

Fort Knox is a sport Crag. There are a few trad lines or mixed routes and theses are marked as such but in general you can have a great day with a handful of quickdraws and a rope.

Tags:
Kid friendly Sandstone Gentle <5 min

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Dicky Seat

First route on left end of cliff, past two bolts to lower off.

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996

22
Sport 7m , 2
2 * White Lane

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.

FA: Nic Wagland, David Wagland, 2009

23
Sport 7m , 2
3 Black And White

Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996

24
Sport 8m
4 Shane Of The Jungle

The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

23
Sport 8m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
5 Jeff's Live Round

3 hangers to chain

FA: Jeff Gracie,

21
Sport 8m , 3
6 Jeff's Orange Barf

Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR.

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

24
Sport 10m , 3
7 Spanking Monkeys

Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear.

FA: J. Langston, 1997

19
Trad 10m
8 Unknown

heads straight up orange wall

24
Sport 12m , 3
9 Homo Gordonis

Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

25
Sport 12m
10 Unknown 2

Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG

25
Sport 12m , 4
11 ** Missing Monkeys / Missin Munkins

A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Originally graded 21 but harder now the flake at the top of the crux has been ripped off. Still an excellent route.

FA: Gordon Low, 1996

22
Sport 15m , 3
12 (Unknown 1)

Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.

24
Sport 15m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
13 Hilti Hijackers

Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout.

FA: Jeff Gracie, Tim Hill, 1996

16
Sport 15m
14 Thin Red Line

4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs

FA: Tristan Ricketts, 2000

20
Mixed 12m , 2
15 ** Magic Dick Sixteen

Right of TRL. Classic, technical climbing through big pockets. 3 bolts to lower off.

FA: T. Walters, 1997

21
Sport 15m , 3
RouteGradeStylePopularity
16 ** Agent Scully

Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs.

FA: Ben Christian,

27
Sport 15m , 4
17 * Leaking Boy Beno

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.

FA: Gordon Low, 1998

25
Sport 16m , 4
18 Agent Mulder

Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle.

FA: S Hawkshaw,

24
Sport 15m , 5