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The first section of cliff that you approach from the top car park. The climbs are described from left tonight. This contains a good selection of moderate routes. The middle section of the cliff can drip after rain. Most routes are equipped with fixed hangers and chain anchors.

Ethic inherited from Fort Knox

Fort Knox is a sport Crag. There are a few trad lines or mixed routes and theses are marked as such but in general you can have a great day with a handful of quickdraws and a rope.


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Grade Route
22 Dicky Seat Sport 7m, 2

First route on left end of cliff, past two bolts to lower off.

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996

23 * White Lane Sport 7m, 2

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.

FA: Nic Wagland & David Wagland, 2009

24 * Black And White Sport 8m

Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996


The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

21 * Jeff's Live Round Sport 8m, 3

3 hangers to chain

FA: Jeff Gracie

24 * Jeff's Orange Barf Sport 10m, 3

Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR.

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

19 * Spanking Monkeys Trad 10m

Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear.

FA: J. Langston, 1997

24 Unknown Sport 12m, 3

heads straight up orange wall

25 Homo Gordonis Sport 12m

Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

25 Unknown 2 Sport 12m, 4

Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG


A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Originally graded 21 but harder now the flake at the top of the crux has been ripped off. Still an excellent route.

FA: Gordon Low, 1996

24 ** (Unknown 1) Sport 15m

Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.

16 * Hilti Hijackers Sport 15m

Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout.

FA: Jeff Gracie & Tim Hill, 1996

20 * Thin Red Line Mixed 12m, 2

4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs

FA: Tristan Ricketts, 2000

21 ** Magic Dick Sixteen Sport 15m, 3

Right of TRL. Classic, technical climbing through big pockets. 3 bolts to lower off.

FA: T. Walters, 1997

27 ** Agent Scully Sport 15m, 4

Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs.

FA: Ben Christian

25 ** Leaking Boy Beno Sport 16m, 4

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.

FA: Gordon Low, 1998

24 ** Agent Mulder Sport 15m, 5

Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle.

FA: S Hawkshaw


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