The Alcove Mostly sport climbing

22 routes in cliff

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Description

Beautiful curved orange wall just past the strong room. Some routes stay dry in the rain.

Ethic inherited from Fort Knox

Fort Knox is a sport Crag. There are a few trad lines or mixed routes and theses are marked as such but in general you can have a great day with a handful of quickdraws and a rope.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 New Slang Sport 15m, 5

first bolt of TVLJ then step left and up to anchors

2
23 *** Tim's Vital Life Juice Sport 15m, 4

Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 bolts to lower off

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

3
27 *** Laaabia Sport 15m, 5

Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain.

FA: Ben Christian, 1997

4
25 *** White Man's Voodoo Sport 15m, 4

Up wall past 4 bolts, hard moves at top. Originally graded at 26.

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

5
24 Elders Voodoo Sport Project 12m, 5

Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV

6
23 R Elders Have Wisdom Sport 16m, 5

Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW

FA: M. Schmidt, 1997

7
20 * John West Sport 12m, 5

Climbs Black Arete on left of wall. Fun pockets at start then edges up high. Direct start from ground or traverse in from ledge

FA: S Hawkshaw

8
22 ** The Malloy Sport 15m, 5

A tribute. Great moves, deceptively pumpy, left hand edge of ledge. Can be started from ground now. REBOLTED FEB 14

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1997

9
23 Wet Patch Sport 15m, 6

up wall just right of the Malloy.

FA: R Ferguson, G Ferguson

10
24 * Lewis The Crag Dog Sport 15m, 4

Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 bolts to lower off.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

11
24 ** Marty's Route Sport 16m, 5

Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011

FA: Unknown, 2000

12
18 Prize Winning Duck Sport 10m, 4

Start as for HOC or there is an optional direct start. Up wall to mantle ledge and anchor under roof.

FA: S Hawkshaw

13
19 House of Cards Sport 12m, 4

Start under block. Optional first bolt clip or skip it. Up orange face to anchors under roof. Could be extension through roof.

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2011

14
21 ** Milk and Honey Sport 15m, 5

Start under obvious pocket. Up Past 2 original fixed hangers then straight up steep wall past 3 RB's to anchor.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2011

15
23 * Wisdom Of Youth VS Sport 15m, 5

Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route.

FA: Gareth Lewellin, Aaron Jones

16
23 * Wisdom Of Youth Sport 20m, 5

The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

17

Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

18
24 ** Kanoon Mixed 12m, 4

The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors.

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1997

19

Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor

FA: Ben Christian, 1997

20
24 ** Alter Ego Sport 12m, 5

Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor.

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2012

21
26 * Bourbon Street Direct Sport 15m, 6

Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route.

FA: James Scarborough, 1999

22
23 * Groovin the Move Sport 10m, 4

Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge.

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2012