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Description

Features a massive overhang

Ethic inherited from Fort Knox

Fort Knox is a sport Crag. There are a few trad lines or mixed routes and theses are marked as such but in general you can have a great day with a handful of quickdraws and a rope.

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Routes

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1
★★★ Proj Trad

Project on the left side of the ML. This route involves a series of roofs with steep walls in between. Going to take some serious work to unlock its sequences

2
26 ★★★ Overshadowed Sport 25m

This route was originally conceived by G. Low and he placed some bolts and the chain at the roof. Nic Wagland competed the climb adding several rings. This great route begins with a weakness through the low horizontal roof and then follows the prominent arête. A good rest can be had before the final steep double sided column that leads to the chains..

FA: Nick Wagland

3
12 Shadow Trad 12m

The corner crack, all natural gear, traverse right at the top to join the anchors of TB.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

4
14 ★ Toilet Bowl Sport 12m, 4

The closed seam leading into the crack and bowl. Nice easy beginners climb,

FA: David Wagland, 2009

5
25 ★★ Wagland Mantel Sport

Starts up the toilet bowl, traverse and up the existing line past some slopers to a spicy finish. Needs another bolt as lower offs. Originally bolted by Nick Wagland.

6
16 ★ Rabid Trad 12m

Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay

FA: David Wagland, 2009

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7
17 Hair of the Dog Trad

20 metres around the corner from R. Natural gear, 2 large cams are useful. Offwidth start leads to small grassy ledge. Over bulge then traverse right and up gully. Top out for tree belay.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

8
17 Hairy Dog Trad 20m

Start 5 meters right of HOTD up finger crack in corner topped by what appears to be a loose block (actually solidly wedged) then traverse left and join HOTD. Avoids offwidth start.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

9
21 Sickle Trad 15m

A fantastic obvious crack line. Horizontal breaks lead to fist jams followed by finger crack to ledge. Small to medium cams and wires.

FA: Rhys Van Gastel & Toby Holmes, 2009

10
21 Mad Dog Sport 12m, 8

Start under roof, Traverse out break and up wall. Climb on after first DBB to another bolt and second DBB.

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