Fort Knox Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Stephen Hawkshaw Brendan Heywood Lee Cujes Neil Monteith Brian Cork D. Westergaard Bruce Jones Gareth Llewellin Arthur Schultz Simon Dale

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Fort Knox 96 in Crag
- 1.1. Twilight Zone 15 in Cliff
- 1.2. Wild Dog 6 in Cliff
- 1.3. Niles Roof Area 2 in Cliff
- 1.4. Strong Room 18 in Cliff
- 1.5. The Alcove 21 in Cliff
- 1.6. Narcissus Roof 1 in Cliff
- 1.7. Goodvibes Wall 13 in Cliff
- 1.8. Pooh Wall 12 in Cliff
- 1.9. The Motherlode 8 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Fort Knox 96 routes in Crag

9 1

1 Twilight Zone, 9 The Motherlode

seasonality

Summary:

Sport,Trad and ?

Long/Lat: 153.035428, -30.037402

Unique Features And Strengths:

The Largest concentration of routes and great rock in the Coffs Area

Description:

Great crag with most routes in the 21-27 range. Majority of routes are on fixed hangers or ring bolts but a few need bolt plates and pieces of gear. Some climbs stay dry in the rain

Approach:

Access from the top

Easier walk but needs car with decent clearance as it can be bumpy

Top Access from Coffs Harbour:

Drive north from Coffs to Bucca road, Follow this for about 4 km until Sherwood Forest road intersection. Turn right and follow this for quite a while (follow main road at all intersections) until you meet the intersection with Waihoo road (point 3 below). following instructions from point 3 below.

Note - this waihoo road it damaged by flood so use alt access outlined above to get to top of waihoo road. From Coffs Harbour go out along Coramba Road to Nana Glen. At Nana Glen turn right onto Bucca Rd. Continue on across a bridge until you come to a road on the left called Morrows Rd. Turn Left into Morrows Road and set your odomenter to zero:

0.0km - Follow Morrows Rd for a few kilometers where it forks.
5.0km - Take the right fork across the railway line. The road now becomes Waihou Rd. Keep going up zig zags until you reach Sherwood Forest Rd
12.3km - Turn a sharp left onto Sherwood Forest Road. Continue along Sherwood Forest Road until you reach Conglomerate Trail (sign posted) on your right.
17.2km - Turn right into Conglomerate Trail (4 Wheel drive) and travel for approx. 1.5 km to the junction of Get Lost Trail and Brush Trail.
19.7km - Veer right down Get Lost Trail and continue on.
20.5km - Park at end of road. From end of road there is a walking track heading down the hill. Cross a creek and continue another 50m until a vague tack veers right which will take you to the strong room. A fairly well worn trail continues along the top of the cliffs and can be used to access pooh wall.

Bottom Access

Use this if you are coming in with a 2wd. Total distance from Glenreagh (start) to bottom of Fort Knox is 9.5km.

0.0km - From Glenreagh follow Sherwood Ck Rd which crosses the river and heads to railway line
0.8km - After Railway line turn Left running parallel with the tracks before veering right into and changing to a windy dirt road.
5.0km - You will cross a bridge over ‘Middle Creek’.
8.0km - You will hit tar again in a lower section of the road. This is a small section of tar before it changes to dirt again. Turn right here, off this tarred bit, down Athol Glen Rd. There is a sawmill over to the right about 100m in from the road.
9.1km - a gravelly road veers off and up to the right (no gates), take this road which goes up to sand mine area. Park off to the side.

From here walk across the other side of the sand pit (30m). Turn left on the other side and follow track for 200m or so. There’s a track (4wd) that turns off to the right its an obvious track so keep walking till you see it.. Walk up this track, it will steepen suddenly and become a walking track. Head uphill and tend left until you reach the cliff, probably around the 'The Alcove' or 'Andy Goodvibe's Wall'.

Ethic:

Fort Knox is a sport Crag. There are a few trad lines or mixed routes and theses are marked as such but in general you can have a great day with a handful of quickdraws and a rope.

History:

Fort knox was discovered by Ben Christian and Jeff Gracie on their way to a winter climbing break from Armidale to visit Wonderland crag. After quickly realising the crags potential they met up with he rest of the Armidale crew and moved camp from Wonderlands to the infamous ‘Camp Butthole’ (where the top car park now is but camping is now banned). The first route to be completed was Gordon Lows 'Missing Monkeys' and by the end of the week another 20 routes had been completed. Most of the early development occurred in 1996 and 1997 which was still early days for sport climbing in Australia so some of the anchors are a little experimental! A number of routes on Pooh wall were added in 2001 which pretty much ended the development of new routes at Knox until late 2009 when the Waglands moved into the Area. Nick and Dave bolted a number of hard projects ('Overshadowed' 26 being the pick of the completed ones) and with the aid of others put up a number of routes around the Motherlode' area. In 2011 Steve Hawkshaw showed up with a new drill and gave the main crag a second wind. In a spurt of new route activity Steve and his cronies unearthed a number of hidden gems which have provided a lot more in the 16-20 grade range, many of which had been overlooked amongst the harder lines. In 2012, Allan Ezzy finally sent an abandoned project to establish the hardest line at the cliff 'Monkey See, Monkey Do (28)' and Steve re-discovered the Twilight Wall which had somehow been mostly overlooked even though it is about 50m from the parking lot!

1.1. Twilight Zone 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Sport,Trad
Long/Lat: 153.037121, -30.040483
Approach:: Twilight Zone is located under the upper Knox Carpark. To Access it head diagonally left (facing towards cliff) from the car park and down a ramp, then back under the cliff to access to climbs.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
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Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT
1	Uzi Packing Drug Lords Up Wall on Trad Gear	17	Trad 12m
2	Dr Farquhar's Space Age Sleeping Vessel Up flack and through bulge	14	Trad 12m
3	Carnage At The Mouse Machine climbs the right leaning orange crack	15	Trad 12m		Mitchell Stewart 5 months ago good climb worth the stars Stephen Hawkshaw 10 months ago Good gear and fun moves.
4	When Twighlight Turns To Dark the corner crack on left of wall FA: J. Gracie, T. Hill, 1996	13	Trad 15m
5	35 Degrees Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors.	16	Mixed 15m , 5		Arthur Schultz 4 months ago No fun on the first go when it was wet, but good once it had dried out. Take care not to pull too...
Hide Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
6	Convergence left trending steep wall past 4 RB's	20	Sport 10m , 4		Stephen Hawkshaw 4 months ago Pumpy for such a short muggy climb.
The Next wall and routes is down and left project
7	The New Oriental Chinese Restaurant Up Crack and wall on trad gear. FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1998	23	Trad
8	Project Start just left of Crack. Needs Independent finish. sharp!	23	Sport 15m , 5		Stephen Hawkshaw 7 months ago Painful crimps through roof let. Rest is great.
9	New Moon Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK FA: Alan Ezzy, 2013	26	Sport 12m , 3
10	The Dark Knight Up SF for 1 bolt then step right and up face.	19	Sport 12m , 4		Stephen Hawkshaw 4 months ago 5 bats flew out of start jug! Fun link to moderate wall climbing
11	Solar Flare Up orange wall and white streak.	20	Sport 13m , 4		Michael Houghton 7 months ago good climb, quite a lot easier than paranormal. Stephen Hawkshaw 7 months ago Fantastic start and nice continuos climbing on stellar rock
12	Paranormal up the black and yellow streak wall past flake and rooflet	22	Sport 13m , 4		Michael Houghton 7 months ago quite technical, pumpy due to small holds. Stephen Hawkshaw 7 months ago Quite thin and punchy.
13	Poltergeist Unknown entity. left line of hangers to chains	18	Sport 12m , 3		Stephen Hawkshaw 5 months ago Escapable on left. Direct would be considerably harder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
14	Breaking Dawn Up through Rooflet to anchor.	16	Sport 10m , 3		Arthur Schultz 4 months ago fun little rockover in the middle Mitchell Stewart 5 months ago great new climb good for new climbers
15	Close Encounters Up left yellow wall.	19	Sport 8m , 3		Stephen Hawkshaw 5 months ago Punchy with some cool holds

1.2. Wild Dog 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Trad
Description:: Wild Dog Wall are directly below the upper Fort Knox car park but at the bottom of the valley (two tiers down)
Approach:: head down towards the twilight zone but instead of cutting back continue diagonally downhill (towards creek) to get down another tier in the cliff. once you are down next tier cut back under cliff until you reach the wall. Its a bit further than you think it will be.

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	Moon Shadow Start on face and cnr crack below first BR and fig tree. Can solo to first BR. Follow BR and crack line to top. (Don't use tree) 5 BR's plus SLCD. Tree Belay Single BR for directional. FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996	21	Mixed 20m , 5
2	Gopher Up to big bowl, then up to tree. All gear	15	Unknown 15m
3	Adder 5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay. FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996	19	Trad 20m
4	Sting 1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay. FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996	23	Mixed 15m , 3
5	Monkey Boots The arete 5/6m right of 'Adder'. Start around on the right face. Use brass offset or RP past first BR. A little contrived but generally follow arete and BR's. Beware Chossy rock. 5 BR's plus 2 natural. DB Belay. FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996	18	Mixed 19m , 5
6	Stoned The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay. FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996	16	Trad 15m

1.3. Niles Roof Area 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: About 10m below and 30m left of 'The Strong Room'

Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Niles Roof From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger	24	Sport 8m , 5		Ben Vincent 1 years ago Very juicy Brendan Heywood 1 years ago My goal is to cleanly lead, chin up at lip, then cleanly unlead back to ground. Got to end and ba...
2		Project		Sport

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Niles Roof

From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger

Sport 8m , 5

Ben Vincent 1 years ago

Very juicy

Brendan Heywood 1 years ago

My goal is to cleanly lead, chin up at lip, then cleanly unlead back to ground. Got to end and ba...

Project

Sport

1.4. Strong Room 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: The first section of cliff that you approach from the top car park. The climbs are described from left tonight. This contains a good selection of moderate routes. The middle section of the cliff can drip after rain. Most routes are equipped with fixed hangers and chain anchors.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Dicky Seat First route on left end of cliff, past two bolts to lower off. FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996	22	Sport 7m , 2		adam palmer 6 years ago grade twenty-poo
2	White Lane Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off. FA: Nic Wagland, David Wagland, 2009	23	Sport 7m , 2
3	Black And White Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996	24	Sport 8m		Stokinger 4 years ago Did i do the 2nd ascent of this????? Jeremy Goble 8 years ago 2nd shot
4	Shane Of The Jungle The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets FA: Ben Christian, 1996	23	Sport 8m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
5	Jeff's Live Round 3 hangers to chain FA: Jeff Gracie,	21	Sport 8m , 3		Michael Houghton 7 months ago nice climb, cool deadpoint moves. Ben Vincent 1 years ago The type of route that would become better the more times you climbed it. Some interesting featur...
6	Jeff's Orange Barf Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR. FA: Ben Christian, 1996	24	Sport 10m , 3		Stokinger 4 years ago its actually 22 Arthur Schultz 5 years ago Hard move over the lip of the small roof.
7	Spanking Monkeys Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear. FA: J. Langston, 1997	19	Trad 10m		Michael Houghton 7 months ago got pumped faffing around. need to get confidence back a bit.
8	Unknown heads straight up orange wall	24	Sport 12m , 3
9	Homo Gordonis Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis. FA: Ben Christian, 1996	25	Sport 12m
10	Unknown 2 Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG	25	Sport 12m , 4
11	Missing Monkeys / Missin Munkins A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Originally graded 21 but harder now the flake at the top of the crux has been ripped off. Still an excellent route. FA: Gordon Low, 1996	22	Sport 15m , 3		Rob Medlicott 4 months ago Hard crux, couldn't get it but the rest was fun. Ben Vincent 1 years ago Staunch warm-up, have plenty of weet-bix!
12	(Unknown 1) Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.	24	Sport 15m		Jeremy Goble 8 years ago 2nd shot
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
13	Hilti Hijackers Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout. FA: Jeff Gracie, Tim Hill, 1996	16	Sport 15m		Rob Medlicott 3 months ago Not a bad little warm Michael Houghton 7 months ago lead, then lead again and down climbed to clean as a warm up.
14	Thin Red Line 4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs FA: Tristan Ricketts, 2000	20	Mixed 12m , 2
15	Magic Dick Sixteen Right of TRL. Classic, technical climbing through big pockets. 3 bolts to lower off. FA: T. Walters, 1997	21	Sport 15m , 3		Jessica Chou 3 months ago fun traverse in the beginning, especially with the wet pocket. Rob Medlicott 3 months ago One more go before we head back to Brissy
16	Agent Scully Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs. FA: Ben Christian,	27	Sport 15m , 4		Stephen Hawkshaw 1 years ago Awesome. hard move. will need to work for this one. Stokinger 4 years ago DIRECT FINALLY
17	Leaking Boy Beno To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high. FA: Gordon Low, 1998	25	Sport 16m , 4		Michael Houghton 7 months ago took a few goes to do the dyno, then couldn't do the moves above the 4th bolt. Stephen Hawkshaw 2 years ago Really cool powerful moves
18	Agent Mulder Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle. FA: S Hawkshaw,	24	Sport 15m , 5		Stephen Hawkshaw 1 years ago fun steep route.

1.5. The Alcove 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: Beautiful curved orange wall just past the strong room. Some routes stay dry in the rain.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
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1	Tim's Vital Life Juice Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 bolts to lower off FA: Ben Christian, 1996	23	Sport 15m , 4		Stephen Hawkshaw 6 years ago tough final move. good to revisit after 5 years Neil Monteith 6 years ago How can i get pumped in 3 moves?
2	Laaabia Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain. FA: Ben Christian, 1997	27	Sport 15m , 5		Ben Vincent 10 months ago Linked the traverse and landed the slimper! just got to catch the top next time. Threw for it and... Stephen Hawkshaw 11 months ago Stellar conditions. Got close just need a bit more route fitness to be able to fight the pump
3	White Man's Voodoo Up wall past 4 bolts, hard moves at top. Originally graded at 26. FA: Ben Christian, 1996	25	Sport 15m , 4		Michael Houghton 7 months ago took a few goes today, and probably my 4th or 5th day overall on the route. Finally got it, my t... Ben Vincent 1 years ago Loved it! Want to now work the Laaabia variant
4	Elders Voodoo Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV	24	Sport Project 12m , 5		Stephen Hawkshaw 7 months ago pumpy traverse to get to chains on WMV. couldn;t hold on at end of the day.
5	Elders Have Wisdom Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW FA: M. Schmidt, 1997	23 R	Sport 16m , 5		Michael Houghton 7 months ago last ascent before rebolt. 3rd go. R rating no longer applicable. Stephen Hawkshaw 1 years ago Great climb. hardly ever done previously as it had a deckout potential at the top. Now last bolt ...
6	John West Climbs Black Arete on left of wall. Fun pockets at start then edges up high. Direct start from ground or traverse in from ledge FA: S Hawkshaw,	19	Sport 12m , 5		michael obrien 11 weeks ago was just one of those days. really not into the climbing today. tired, frustrated, unmotivated...... Brendan Heywood 1 years ago Mis-clipped second hanger without noticing and then noticed just AFTER the crux move!
7	The Malloy A tribute. Great moves, deceptively pumpy, left hand edge of ledge. Can be started from ground now. In desperate need of rebolt FA: Jeff Gracie, 1997	22	Sport 15m , 7		Jessica Chou 3 months ago what a fun climb! Rob Medlicott 3 months ago Clean to last bolt today, still couldn't finish due to wet top out but i feel that the climb is o...
8	Wet Patch up wall just right of the Malloy. FA: R Ferguson, G Ferguson,	23	Sport 15m , 6
9	Lewis The Crag Dog Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 bolts to lower off. FA: Gordon Low, 1997	24	Sport 15m , 4		Stephen Hawkshaw 12 months ago Great variety of moves. Lee Cujes 10 years ago 2nd shot.
10	Marty's Route Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011 FA: Unknown, 2000	24	Sport 16m , 5		Stokinger 4 years ago 2nd go is this really 25?????????? Stephen Hawkshaw 6 years ago easiest route in the alcove?
11	Prize Winning Duck Start as for HOC or there is an optional direct start. Up wall to mantle ledge and anchor under roof. FA: S Hawkshaw,	18	Sport 10m , 4		michael obrien 11 weeks ago nice boulderish starting moves. was fun Rob Medlicott 4 months ago Didn't enjoy this for warm up, maybe a tad stiff at 18. I think it was harder than the 19 beside...
12	House of Cards Start under block. Optional first bolt clip or skip it. Up orange face to anchors under roof. Could be extension through roof. FA: S Hawkshaw, 2011	19	Sport 12m , 4		Rob Medlicott 4 months ago Nice fun moves at the start, good little route Brendan Heywood 1 years ago Has one good move. Would be super staunch to eliminate the huge block on your left at the start
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
13	Milk and Honey Start under obvious pocket. Up Past 2 original fixed hangers then straight up steep wall past 3 RB's to anchor. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2011	21	Sport 15m , 5		Rob Medlicott 3 months ago Another route that couldn't be completed in the rain but had fun up to the last bolt Arthur Schultz 11 months ago Interesting, a range of different movement needed, some power down low, a strange mantle in the m...
14	Wisdom Of Youth VS Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route. FA: Gareth Lewellin, Aaron Jones,	23	Sport 15m , 5
15	Wisdom Of Youth The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts. FA: Gordon Low, 1997	23	Sport 20m , 5		Stephen Hawkshaw 7 years ago superb steepness. orange pockets and solid rock Stephen Hawkshaw 7 years ago one mover. jugs to there.
16	Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top. FA: Gordon Low, 1997	23	Sport 15m , 7		Ben Vincent 1 years ago The first move is staunch, then great jugs and a classic to follow Neil Monteith 6 years ago Fucked leap move to start then great.
17	Kanoon The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors. FA: Jeff Gracie, 1997	24	Mixed 12m , 4		Ben Vincent 1 years ago Juicy. Really cool sequence, jugs everywhere and then a big left leap of faith which once stuck i... Stephen Hawkshaw 2 years ago Suprised to tick this one. awesome climbing but probably more like 24
18	Poor Man On Bourbon Street Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor FA: Ben Christian, 1997	26	Sport 15m , 6		Lee Cujes 10 years ago Hmm - very hard!
19	Alter Ego Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor. FA: S Hawkshaw, 2012	24	Sport 12m , 5		Stephen Hawkshaw 12 months ago Better conditions this week. Great moves Stephen Hawkshaw 1 years ago 4 shots, close on 3rd. awesome moves and position on undercut arete for crux.
20	Bourbon Street Direct Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route. FA: James Scarborough, 1999	26	Sport 15m , 6
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
21	Groovin the Move Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge. FA: S Hawkshaw, 2012	23	Sport 10m , 4		Stephen Hawkshaw 11 months ago Fun sequence. Stellar rock and position. Stephen Hawkshaw 11 months ago Great rock an position. Another hanging arête. Can wait to try again fresh.

1.6. Narcissus Roof 1 route in Cliff

Summary:: All Trad
Description:: This area is below the Alcove, to reach it walk straight down from the Alcove. Then down and right of the big block to the roof.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Narcissus Raining Down It’s the only route on the wall. Up past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to roof, and last bolt to lower off FA: Ben Christian, 1996	21	Mixed 10m , 3		Rohan Glover 6 years ago Had an epic. Maybe re-name this Rocks Raining Down? adam palmer 6 years ago more like rocks raining down!!! And almost Rohan raining down....

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Narcissus Raining Down

It’s the only route on the wall. Up past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to roof, and last bolt to lower off

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

Mixed 10m , 3

Rohan Glover 6 years ago

Had an epic. Maybe re-name this Rocks Raining Down?

adam palmer 6 years ago

more like rocks raining down!!! And almost Rohan raining down....

1.7. Goodvibes Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Sport,Trad

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
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1	Will of the Word Climbs up wall traversing left to top out passing 5 Carrots. No Anchor FA: Bruce Jones, 1996	23	Sport 15m , 5		Stephen Hawkshaw 2 years ago Hidden gem. Needs Anchors though.
2	Corky's Crack Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip. FA: Brian Cork, 1997	15	Trad 15m		Brian Cork 11 months ago Much better now the anchors have been moved. The corner is nice.
3	Stealth Mode About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy. FA: Brian Cork, Toby Holmes, 2012	16	Mixed 15m , 2
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
4	Steves Preposterous Hypothesis Up featured wall 5m left of andy goodvibes FA: Brian Cork, 2012	18	Sport 15m , 7		michael obrien 11 weeks ago first climb of the day. a bit of a hard start Ben Vincent 10 months ago A good techy climb with cool features. Liking the garden!
5	Pimp My Vagrant Ride Up slab 2m left of AG. Spied by Brian and meticulously scrubbed and equipped by Leon. A fine route with lots of interesting holds and moves. FA: L Gray, 2012	22	Sport 15m , 5		Brian Cork 11 months ago Love it. Can't get the reachy move at the start. Must find another way.... Stephen Hawkshaw 11 months ago Punchy start and techy slab. Wear edging shoes.
6	Andy Goodvibes A fantastic slab with a great little crux roof. The orange streak about 15m right of 'Corky's crack'. Up pockets on orange section, then crux move onto the gray slab with progressively better moves to the top. FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996	22	Sport 18m , 7		Brendan Heywood 1 years ago Never loses its charm Rohan Glover 3 years ago unfinished business from 2007. Sequency but awesome.
7	Adventures In Retro Land 5m right of AG, step right on good foot holds to reach the first bolt. Follow bolts to lower off. Carrots FA: Ben Christian,	22	Sport 20m , 4		Arthur Schultz 6 years ago Good when you get past the loose holds, if they are still there...
8	Fashion Nugget The arete at the beginning of the roof 10m right of AIR, stick clip first bolt, Jug up to a tricky move or two, nice pockets up high. FA: Gordon Low, 1997	22	Sport 15m		Stephen Hawkshaw 2 years ago Nice and clean at the moment!
9	Rubik's Roof	27	Sport 15m
10	Ally Cat and the Puppet Show Obvious Corner Crack. Up into the juggy corner, around the roof and up a nice hand crack to a tree. FA: Brian Cork, 2011	17	Trad 15m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
11	Project 2? Hard looking roof through hangers		Sport
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
12	Monkey See, Monkey Do Start in Back of cave, out through 5m roof to gain headwall and up. FA: Alan Ezzy, 2012	28	Sport 15m		Alan Ezzy 9 months ago Sweet climb. Hard roof climbing then easy.
13	Allypop And The Ice-Man The right most route on the corner. First clip hanger from ledge, then power through some great juggy roof moves onto slopers then up face to chains. FA: Gordon Low, 1997	25	Sport 15m , 4		Stephen Hawkshaw 10 months ago Really great. Not to hard but Pumpy! Great now critical hold was reinforced Ben Vincent 10 months ago Sweet mixture of juggy/slopper throws, finishing with crimpy moves, gets a bit pumpy at the top.

1.8. Pooh Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Sport,Trad
Description:: Good warmups or beginner routes. This is named after a famous animal character, not the famous poo dog. It is the slabby wall right of the descent gully at the end of 'Goodvibes Wall'. Much potential still exists especially for beginners. There are some natural lines that have been done through the horizontal breaks here but have not been recorded.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
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1	Christopher Robbin: Toy Boy Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings. FA: Paul Daniel, Tristan Ricketts, 2001	16	Sport 12m , 2
2	Piglet Gets Porked 3 bolts, finish as per CRTB FA: Paul Daniel, Tristan Ricketts, 2001	17	Sport 15m , 3		Geoff Tosio 10 months ago Full of moss and sand, not nice climbing
3	Pooh Gets A Dip In The Honey Pot 1m right of PGP. 2 bolts and a fixed hanger, finish as per TM. FA: Tristan Ricketts, Paul Daniel, 2001	19	Sport 12m , 2		Stephen Parker 10 years ago Bouldery start.
4	Tigger's Mark Start at yellow paw print on wall at knee height. 1m right of PGADITHP, 2 bolts to rings. FA: M. Cloonan, Tristan Ricketts, Paul Daniel, 2001	18	Sport 12m , 2		Geoff Tosio 10 months ago Covered in moss Karen Caves 9 years ago first ever onsight flash
5	Eeor's Tail 1m right of TM. Natural gear (cams) in breaks, 1 fixed hanger, finish at rings above TM FA: Martin Cloonan, Tristan Ricketts, 2001	17	Mixed 12m , 1		Geoff Tosio 10 months ago Covered in moss
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
6	Pale Pooh Streak 15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers.	16	Sport 12m
7	The Enchanted Place 2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you. FA: Tristan Ricketts, Paul Daniel, 2001	16	Sport 12m , 3		Stephen Parker 10 years ago Can get some good natural gear in the numerous breaks.
8	Winnie The Pooh Goes Honey Hunting In the middle of the wall, great climb for beginners, up the wall past nicely spaced bolts to a lower off in the groove down right of the tree. FA: H. Friedberg, Jeff Gracie, 1997	17	Sport 12m		Mitchell Stewart 5 months ago good route bit reachy towards the end Geoff Tosio 10 months ago Lovely climb with regular bolts
9	Pooh Scoop 4m right of WTPGHH. Through the large scoop, six bolts (!) to chains at back of large scoop at top. The position of these chains means the rope is running over an edge for the lower off but the chains at WTPGHH can be used as an alternative. Apparently this was set up as a trainer for lead climbing.	15	Sport 14m , 6		Sean Williams 5 weeks ago ...nice first climb of the day... ...was fun... ...top rope... Mitchell Stewart 5 months ago first ever lead :)
10	Paint Spot 3m right of WTPGHH around where there is a dish like depression half way up. FA: Bruce Jones, Clarkson Walter, 1998	14	Trad
11	Brush Strokes 1m right of PS FA: Bruce Jones, Clarkson Walter, 1998	14	Trad
12	Piglet Plays the Jugs (aka Pooh Scoop) Bottomless to BR, then up black rock on gear	14	Sport 14m		Stephen Hawkshaw 2 years ago Stew climbed this with 1 small rest.

1.9. The Motherlode 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Trad,Sport
Long/Lat: 153.033561, -30.034424
Description:: Features a massive overhang

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
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1	Overshadowed This route was originally conceived by G. Low and he placed some bolts and the chain at the roof. Nic Wagland competed the climb adding several rings. This great route begins with a weakness through the low horizontal roof and then follows the prominent arête. A good rest can be had before the final steep double sided column that leads to the chains.. FA: Nick Wagland,	26	Sport 25m		Damien Ayers 3 years ago Spectacular climb. Best by far at Fort Knox. Bouldery start, tricky crux, steep finish. Loved it. Stokinger 4 years ago Brilliant first ascent Nick very long steep and committing route excellent more lines need to go ...
2	Shadow The corner crack, all natural gear, traverse right at the top to join the anchors of TB. FA: Toby Holmes, 2009	12	Trad 12m
3	Toilet Bowl The closed seam leading into the crack and bowl. Nice easy beginners climb, FA: David Wagland, 2009	14	Sport 12m , 4		eliza hull 11 months ago Cute little number. Lewis H 1 years ago Nice easy slabby crack for new sport climbers
4	Project		Sport Project
5	Rabid Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay FA: David Wagland, 2009	16	Trad 12m		Lewis H 1 years ago My first trad, great fun
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
6	Hair of the Dog 20 metres around the corner from R. Natural gear, 2 large cams are useful. Offwidth start leads to small grassy ledge. Over bulge then traverse right and up gully. Top out for tree belay. FA: Toby Holmes, 2009	17	Trad
7	Hairy Dog Start 5 meters right of HOTD up finger crack in corner topped by what appears to be a loose block (actually solidly wedged) then traverse left and join HOTD. Avoids offwidth start. FA: Toby Holmes, 2009	17	Trad 20m
8	Sickle A fantastic obvious crack line. Horizontal breaks lead to fist jams followed by finger crack to ledge. Small to medium cams and wires. FA: Rhys Van Gastel, Toby Holmes, 2009	21	Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
12	Shadow	Trad 12m	1.9. The Motherlode
13	When Twighlight Turns To Dark	Trad 15m	1.1. Twilight Zone
14	Dr Farquhar's Space Age Sleeping Vessel	Trad 12m	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Brush Strokes	Trad	1.8. Pooh Wall
	Paint Spot	Trad	1.8. Pooh Wall
	Piglet Plays the Jugs (aka Pooh Scoop)	Sport 14m	1.8. Pooh Wall
	Toilet Bowl	Sport 12m , 4	1.9. The Motherlode
15	Carnage At The Mouse Machine	Trad 12m	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Gopher	Unknown 15m	1.2. Wild Dog
	Corky's Crack	Trad 15m	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
	Pooh Scoop	Sport 14m , 6	1.8. Pooh Wall
16	35 Degrees	Mixed 15m , 5	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Breaking Dawn	Sport 10m , 3	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Stoned	Trad 15m	1.2. Wild Dog
	Hilti Hijackers	Sport 15m	1.4. Strong Room
	Stealth Mode	Mixed 15m , 2	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
	Christopher Robbin: Toy Boy	Sport 12m , 2	1.8. Pooh Wall
	Pale Pooh Streak	Sport 12m	1.8. Pooh Wall
	The Enchanted Place	Sport 12m , 3	1.8. Pooh Wall
	Rabid	Trad 12m	1.9. The Motherlode
17	Uzi Packing Drug Lords	Trad 12m	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Ally Cat and the Puppet Show	Trad 15m	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
	Eeor's Tail	Mixed 12m , 1	1.8. Pooh Wall
	Piglet Gets Porked	Sport 15m , 3	1.8. Pooh Wall
	Winnie The Pooh Goes Honey Hunting	Sport 12m	1.8. Pooh Wall
	Hair of the Dog	Trad	1.9. The Motherlode
	Hairy Dog	Trad 20m	1.9. The Motherlode
18	Poltergeist	Sport 12m , 3	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Monkey Boots	Mixed 19m , 5	1.2. Wild Dog
	Prize Winning Duck	Sport 10m , 4	1.5. The Alcove
	Steves Preposterous Hypothesis	Sport 15m , 7	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
	Tigger's Mark	Sport 12m , 2	1.8. Pooh Wall
19	Close Encounters	Sport 8m , 3	1.1. Twilight Zone
	The Dark Knight	Sport 12m , 4	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Adder	Trad 20m	1.2. Wild Dog
	Spanking Monkeys	Trad 10m	1.4. Strong Room
	House of Cards	Sport 12m , 4	1.5. The Alcove
	John West	Sport 12m , 5	1.5. The Alcove
	Pooh Gets A Dip In The Honey Pot	Sport 12m , 2	1.8. Pooh Wall
20	Convergence	Sport 10m , 4	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Solar Flare	Sport 13m , 4	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Thin Red Line	Mixed 12m , 2	1.4. Strong Room
21	Moon Shadow	Mixed 20m , 5	1.2. Wild Dog
	Jeff's Live Round	Sport 8m , 3	1.4. Strong Room
	Magic Dick Sixteen	Sport 15m , 3	1.4. Strong Room
	Milk and Honey	Sport 15m , 5	1.5. The Alcove
	Narcissus Raining Down	Mixed 10m , 3	1.6. Narcissus Roof
	Sickle	Trad 15m	1.9. The Motherlode
22	Paranormal	Sport 13m , 4	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Dicky Seat	Sport 7m , 2	1.4. Strong Room
	Missing Monkeys	Sport 15m , 3	1.4. Strong Room
	The Malloy	Sport 15m , 7	1.5. The Alcove
	Adventures In Retro Land	Sport 20m , 4	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
	Andy Goodvibes	Sport 18m , 7	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
	Fashion Nugget	Sport 15m	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
	Pimp My Vagrant Ride	Sport 15m , 5	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
23	Project	Sport 15m , 5	1.1. Twilight Zone
	The New Oriental Chinese Restaurant	Trad	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Sting	Mixed 15m , 3	1.2. Wild Dog
	Shane Of The Jungle	Sport 8m	1.4. Strong Room
	White Lane	Sport 7m , 2	1.4. Strong Room
	Elders Have Wisdom	Sport 16m , 5	1.5. The Alcove
	Groovin the Move	Sport 10m , 4	1.5. The Alcove
	Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll	Sport 15m , 7	1.5. The Alcove
	Tim's Vital Life Juice	Sport 15m , 4	1.5. The Alcove
	Wet Patch	Sport 15m , 6	1.5. The Alcove
	Wisdom Of Youth	Sport 20m , 5	1.5. The Alcove
	Wisdom Of Youth VS	Sport 15m , 5	1.5. The Alcove
	Will of the Word	Sport 15m , 5	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
24	Niles Roof	Sport 8m , 5	1.3. Niles Roof Area
	(Unknown 1)	Sport 15m	1.4. Strong Room
	Agent Mulder	Sport 15m , 5	1.4. Strong Room
	Black And White	Sport 8m	1.4. Strong Room
	Jeff's Orange Barf	Sport 10m , 3	1.4. Strong Room
	Unknown	Sport 12m , 3	1.4. Strong Room
	Alter Ego	Sport 12m , 5	1.5. The Alcove
	Elders Voodoo	Sport Project 12m , 5	1.5. The Alcove
	Kanoon	Mixed 12m , 4	1.5. The Alcove
	Lewis The Crag Dog	Sport 15m , 4	1.5. The Alcove
	Marty's Route	Sport 16m , 5	1.5. The Alcove
25	Homo Gordonis	Sport 12m	1.4. Strong Room
	Leaking Boy Beno	Sport 16m , 4	1.4. Strong Room
	Unknown 2	Sport 12m , 4	1.4. Strong Room
	White Man's Voodoo	Sport 15m , 4	1.5. The Alcove
	Allypop And The Ice-Man	Sport 15m , 4	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
26	New Moon	Sport 12m , 3	1.1. Twilight Zone
	Bourbon Street Direct	Sport 15m , 6	1.5. The Alcove
	Poor Man On Bourbon Street	Sport 15m , 6	1.5. The Alcove
	Overshadowed	Sport 25m	1.9. The Motherlode
27	Agent Scully	Sport 15m , 4	1.4. Strong Room
	Laaabia	Sport 15m , 5	1.5. The Alcove
	Rubik's Roof	Sport 15m	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
28	Monkey See, Monkey Do	Sport 15m	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
?	Project	Sport	1.3. Niles Roof Area
	Project 2?	Sport	1.7. Goodvibes Wall
	Project	Sport Project	1.9. The Motherlode

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Crag Guide for Fort Knox